Jump to content
IGNORED

New to BMW--and already having troubles


Butthead

Recommended Posts

Hello to all! I have been riding over 30 years, but I'm new (bought July 5th) to BMW bikes. I bought a 2005 1200 RT from a fella down the street with 36K on it and until last friday, I have loved every minute of riding it. I have a stack of records and recalls completed to include a fuel pump 14K miles ago. Recently started smell fuel, so today I pulled off the plastics and found it to be leaking at the connector on top of the pump. It's my understanding that this may or may not be repaired under a recall, so I'll call the dealer tomorrow to find out for sure.

 

If it's not, it looks like a repair I could do myself, but won't I don't know is about crimping those new rings on the new connector. I'll try to post a picture of said leak.

 

Thanks in advance for any guidance and advice!

Link to comment
Hello to all! I have been riding over 30 years, but I'm new (bought July 5th) to BMW bikes. I bought a 2005 1200 RT from a fella down the street with 36K on it and until last friday, I have loved every minute of riding it. I have a stack of records and recalls completed to include a fuel pump 14K miles ago. Recently started smell fuel, so today I pulled off the plastics and found it to be leaking at the connector on top of the pump. It's my understanding that this may or may not be repaired under a recall, so I'll call the dealer tomorrow to find out for sure.

 

If it's not, it looks like a repair I could do myself, but won't I don't know is about crimping those new rings on the new connector. I'll try to post a picture of said leak.

 

 

Evening Butthead

 

You are going to have to be our eyes on this & tell us EXACTLY where the leak is coming from (which fuel line connection & exactly where on the fitting it is leaking from.

 

If the pressure-side line then the usual place of leakage is a crack in the fuel pump pass through (not easily repairable), or leaking from the quick disconnect "O" ring inside the quick disconnect.

 

There was a recall on the pump pass-through boss crack but BMW gave the dealer an option to just install a reinforcement band or replace the pump assembly (depends on crack length). A lot of dealers just took the easy way out & installed the band no matter the crack length so some of those are now starting to leak.

 

Link to comment

The reinforcement ring that was installed on my fuel pump as part of the recall in 2014 started leaking two weeks ago on my 07.

I brought the bike back to the dealer and BMW installed a new pump.

 

The dealers probably figured out that if they put a ring the first time and pump leaked later, they could charge BMW twice for the same recall...

Edited by Dann
Link to comment

Apparently the fuel pump was replaced before the fuel flange recall was issued in 2014, as your "new" pump has no reinforcement ring. If the leak is not too severe I'd get the bike to a dealer for the free recall work. The tech will be removing the fuel line anyway, so they will be able to make sure the quick connect is properly seated and to check the quick connect O-ring for damage.

Link to comment

According to the records I have for the bike, it was replaced 1/29/15. Paperwork states work completed under recall

Edited by Butthead
Link to comment
So I think I got a picture attached. I drew a line around do the connection that is leaking.

 

Morning Butthead

 

I still can't see the leak & you haven't told us EXACTLY where it is coming from. If it is inside that box that you drew it could be either a cracked pass-through boss or a leaking "O" ring. (can you see a small crack in the little raised boss that the fitting screws into?)

 

In any case I don't see a reinforcement ring so possibly BMW installed an old pump instead of the new updated pump.

 

You need to look VERY CLOSLY to see if you see a crack in the pass-through boss, or if the leak is coming from above the boss then running down from the quick disconnect fitting.

 

It is very easy to nick the internal "O" ring if the quick disconnect trigger isn't held all the way in during disconnection or re-connection.

 

Unless BMW has just recently updated it's pump pass-through design then your bike didn't get the pump recall as I don't see a reinforcement ring on that pass-trough boss. So see if your dealer will address the fuel leak for you.

 

 

Njq6uPD.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
Link to comment

Okay....I've highlighted the area that the fuel is actually leaking from. If you look closely, you can see drops of fuel lying on the chrome portion of the QD. Not being familiar with motorcycles with pressurized fuel injection systems, I was unsure of what would happen if I pull that hose off to inspect further. Will it spray fuel everywhere??? Will I do more harm that good??

 

I still have to call the dealer that has performed all of the services prior to me buying it and see if they will look at it as a recall.

6762.jpg.1ae4974b37e4694ea5cd4ce5fd9e7761.jpg

Link to comment
Okay....I've highlighted the area that the fuel is actually leaking from. If you look closely, you can see drops of fuel lying on the chrome portion of the QD. Not being familiar with motorcycles with pressurized fuel injection systems, I was unsure of what would happen if I pull that hose off to inspect further. Will it spray fuel everywhere??? Will I do more harm that good??

 

I still have to call the dealer that has performed all of the services prior to me buying it and see if they will look at it as a recall.

 

 

Morning Butthead

 

That area sort of points to a damaged "O" ring. Not 100% but it usually is the "O" ring when leaking at that location.

 

When you are at the dealer pick up another "O" ring -- When reassembling makes sure that the latch is not triggered until the fitting is fully snapped together. (if latch snaps together during early insertion it can damage the "O" ring)

Edited by dirtrider
Link to comment

So I pulled the line off yesterday, and I do have a small nick in the o-ring. With that said, I'm not sure if that is my problem, OR if I caused it while removing the line. Either way, has anyone had any luck finding these at any local auto parts stores? The closest BMW dealer is 70 miles away. I tried ordering a pack from BBY, but they require $20.00 minimum order. Wondering if someone local has it.....

Edited by Butthead
Link to comment
So I pulled the line off yesterday, and I do have a small nick in the o-ring. With that said, I'm not sure if that is my problem, OR if I caused it while removing the line. Either way, has anyone had any luck finding these at any local auto parts stores? The closest BMW dealer is 70 miles away. I tried ordering a pack from BBY, but they require $20.00 minimum order. Wondering if someone local has it.....

 

Morning Butthead

 

BMW doesn't give the size in my parts book so you will probably have to remove the "O" ring & take it into a local auto parts store & match it up. Most auto parts stores have a large assortment of "O" rings.

 

Just make sure that the "O" ring that you get is alcohol & fuel resistant or you will have another leak in your future.

 

Link to comment

Out of interest, are they still using nitrile gaskets or are they now using vitron rubber.

 

They've known for many years that nitrile breaks down under heat cycling.

 

Just wondering how honest they are.

Edited by RobinW
Link to comment
Out of interest, are they still using nitrile gaskets or are they now using vitron rubber.

 

They've known for many years that nitrile breaks down under heat cycling.

 

Just wondering how honest they are.

 

Morning Robin

 

No way to know for sure without asking BMW (& having them give you a straight answer)

 

The last few 1200RT that I have installed were black (not brown) & most Vitron that I deal with at work are brown so that m-i-g-h-t say something, but nothing confirming.

 

Whatever BMW uses seems to work for a very long time as I haven't ever seen one leak that wasn't molested by improper disassembly or re-assembly. (if the insertion goes straight in without touching the latch until the "O" ring clears the latch then all goes well, if the insertion goes slightly less than straight in "that" can trigger the latch to close prematurely & nick the "O" ring.

 

Link to comment

I guess it points more at the cars than the bikes.

People say, BMW cars leak oil, it's normal.

Normal for nitrile seals.

 

The VGC on my 4 wheeler was almost Bakelite when I got to it.

All the KBikes and R1100';s I've rebuilt where nitrile.

Haven't had to touch any rubber on this 1200 and it's 10 Years Old..

 

Link to comment

Good morning AlI, I have a 2006 R1200RT. I am getting hesitation at 3000rpm in all 6 gears. I took the bike to Max BMW and they suggested that I replace the coils which were expensive. I replaced them. Also replaced all 4 plugs. Lastly I replaced the Throttle position sensor. I took it to Max BMW and they installed and synced it. After all this I am still having the exact same hesitation. Does anyone have any ideas on a fix for me please? I really don't want to take it back to Max BMW since they don't seem to have any idea on how to fix the issue.

Link to comment
Good morning AlI, I have a 2006 R1200RT. I am getting hesitation at 3000rpm in all 6 gears. I took the bike to Max BMW and they suggested that I replace the coils which were expensive. I replaced them. Also replaced all 4 plugs. Lastly I replaced the Throttle position sensor. I took it to Max BMW and they installed and synced it. After all this I am still having the exact same hesitation. Does anyone have any ideas on a fix for me please? I really don't want to take it back to Max BMW since they don't seem to have any idea on how to fix the issue.

 

Afternoon CTR1200RT

 

Yes, I have a couple of ideas but you will have to start your own thread on YOUR problem as we don't want to hijack Butthead's thread.

 

Link to comment

Well, I finally got around to picking up a couple of O rings today at the auto parts store. Used digital calipers to verify that they were the same size as my old one. I bought 3....just in case I goofed one up......and if not, I'd have spares. Tried all 3 of them, and even though the first one slowed the leak down considerably, after a minute or so of idling, I started to see some seepage. If I push every so slightly on the 90 degree QD that is leaking, it really starts to spray fuel. Even though no matter how hard I try, I can't physically see a crack in the QD, I feel pretty strongly that is what my problem is.

 

So.....I'm ready to order some replacements. Is Beemer boneyard the best place to do so? I see they have a 90, a straight, orings and clamps for just over $70.00.

Link to comment
Well, I finally got around to picking up a couple of O rings today at the auto parts store. Used digital calipers to verify that they were the same size as my old one. I bought 3....just in case I goofed one up......and if not, I'd have spares. Tried all 3 of them, and even though the first one slowed the leak down considerably, after a minute or so of idling, I started to see some seepage. If I push every so slightly on the 90 degree QD that is leaking, it really starts to spray fuel. Even though no matter how hard I try, I can't physically see a crack in the QD, I feel pretty strongly that is what my problem is.

 

So.....I'm ready to order some replacements. Is Beemer boneyard the best place to do so? I see they have a 90, a straight, orings and clamps for just over $70.00.

 

Evening Butthead

 

I usually replace just the part that is broken & use BMW parts (the 90° male upper for your application is about $25.00 from BMW).

 

I strongly caution about being very careful in replacing the lower fitting on the pressure line with a steel aftermarket as I have seen a number of problems with 1200RT riders using an aftermarket threaded lower. The small weak plastic fuel pump pass through boss is ever so easy to crack & especially easy when screwing in a steel lower.

 

If you do use an aftermarket lower on that pressure hose then use a good fuel proof sealer on the threads & be VERY VERY careful in how tight you torque it.

 

If the lower part is leaking then you are kind of committed to using aftermarket so use extreme caution in replacing that.

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
Link to comment

I'm on board with only replacing the top male 90 piece. I just wanted to avoid driving 140 miles to the dealer.

 

I'll do a little more looking online to see if it can be had that way. As much as I've enjoyed this bike the past few months....I'm wondering if I shouldn't have stuck with what I know and can pick up parts on my lunch break if needed. :(

 

I am very grateful for the help and will keep you updated.

Link to comment

BeemerBoneyard is a good source for those quick disconnects.

Used them on my 05GS for a year or two before the flange recall came out.

 

JR356

Edited by JR356
Link to comment

Got an OEM replacement coming. Don't be surprised if yall happen to drive by my house and see a "for sale" sign on it after its fixed.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

That's certainly a decision only you can make. On the other hand, you are learning about the bike you now own and have enjoyed riding. Developing a knowledge and understanding of how ones bike works is a rewarding thing. I'm not sure if your frustration is the length of time its taken you to get to the bottom of the issue, or that you had a problem to begin with. I, too, use to live about 70 miles from my closet dealer, so I understand the challenge that can be. OTOH, it's also a nice opportunity for a brief ride and you probably could have gotten out of there for an hours labor and parts. They may have even just replaced the pump under recall as you don't have the updated version and the cost to you zero.

 

Whatever you decide, I wish you well. The Hexhead is a bit intimidating at first, but is fairly easy to understand and work on. There are tutorials and resources available for just about any service you'd want to preform at home. If you like the ride of the bike as much as you say you do, why let a little problem like this run you off?

Link to comment
That's certainly a decision only you can make. On the other hand, you are learning about the bike you now own and have enjoyed riding. Developing a knowledge and understanding of how ones bike works is a rewarding thing. I'm not sure if your frustration is the length of time its taken you to get to the bottom of the issue, or that you had a problem to begin with. I, too, use to live about 70 miles from my closet dealer, so I understand the challenge that can be. OTOH, it's also a nice opportunity for a brief ride and you probably could have gotten out of there for an hours labor and parts. They may have even just replaced the pump under recall as you don't have the updated version and the cost to you zero.

 

Whatever you decide, I wish you well. The Hexhead is a bit intimidating at first, but is fairly easy to understand and work on. There are tutorials and resources available for just about any service you'd want to preform at home. If you like the ride of the bike as much as you say you do, why let a little problem like this run you off?

 

+1

 

I'm not a mechanic and I learned to do all the maintenance on my 07

 

I even replaced the drive shaft, swing arm and the clutch myself.

 

The only time the dealer does work on my bike is when BMW pays for it.

 

There are tons of resources available. If you are willing to invest the time it's not that hard to work on it yourself.

 

My bike runs like new now.

 

P_20170914_171801.jpg

Link to comment
That's certainly a decision only you can make. On the other hand, you are learning about the bike you now own and have enjoyed riding. Developing a knowledge and understanding of how ones bike works is a rewarding thing. I'm not sure if your frustration is the length of time its taken you to get to the bottom of the issue, or that you had a problem to begin with. I, too, use to live about 70 miles from my closet dealer, so I understand the challenge that can be. OTOH, it's also a nice opportunity for a brief ride and you probably could have gotten out of there for an hours labor and parts. They may have even just replaced the pump under recall as you don't have the updated version and the cost to you zero.

 

Whatever you decide, I wish you well. The Hexhead is a bit intimidating at first, but is fairly easy to understand and work on. There are tutorials and resources available for just about any service you'd want to preform at home. If you like the ride of the bike as much as you say you do, why let a little problem like this run you off?

 

+1

 

I'm not a mechanic and I learned to do all the maintenance on my 07

 

I even replaced the drive shaft, swing arm and the clutch myself.

 

The only time the dealer does work on my bike is when BMW pays for it.

 

There are tons of resources available. If you are willing to invest the time it's not that hard to work on it yourself.

 

My bike runs like new now.

 

P_20170914_171801.jpg

 

I am very grateful for everyone's responses. My gripes are 1. Why would BMW put a $20.00 plastic (critical part I might add)on a $20,000 motorcycle? And 2. The closest dealer has proven to me already that they do not value customer service. Believe it or not, I finally ended up ordering from Max BMW 1000 MILES away and got it 3 business days.

 

Now to install it. Do I need to order one of those oetik crimping tools and wait days for that to come, or can I use my snips and safely crimp it without worrying about cutting through it???

Link to comment

 

Now to install it. Do I need to order one of those oetik crimping tools and wait days for that to come, or can I use my snips and safely crimp it without worrying about cutting through it???

 

 

Evening Butthead

 

You won't get a proper crimp using side cutters or snips.

 

In most cases the same tool used to crimp front wheel drive axle boot rings will work for those fuel line clamps & you can usually rent or even borrow one of those from a good local auto parts store.

 

If you don't use a proper tool then the center of the band in the crimp area will bow outward & that keeps it from retaining proper tightness.

 

 

 

Link to comment

Oh good.....more delays! :dopeslap: oh well.....I'll try to find one locally tomorrow and go from there. Thanks again to all.....I'll post the results.

Link to comment

Well, finally got to put it back together......and as best I can tell by running it in the garage.....I've got it fixed. Didn't take it on the road yet, but I assume if it doesn't leak on idle and light engine revving for several minutes, then it won't leak on the road. I'll post the final results after a road test.

 

As a side note--i made my own crimper for the oetiker clamp. Bought a $6 pair of end snips and ground the cutting edge smooth with my dremel so I wouldn't cut into the clamp. Worked like a charm!

 

Thanks again for all the advice!!

Link to comment

I have to be cheap......got one more year of kid's college to pay for! Took it out this afternoon for a short ride to run a few errands. Ran like a champ and no gas leak! Mission accomplished. Just wish it wasn't so hard to get parts for where I am.

Link to comment
I have to be cheap......got one more year of kid's college to pay for! Took it out this afternoon for a short ride to run a few errands. Ran like a champ and no gas leak! Mission accomplished. Just wish it wasn't so hard to get parts for where I am.

 

Unfortunately having a dealer close by doesn't guaranty a better access to parts.

Very few places seems to keep parts in stock anymore. except for the very common ones.

I have two dealers close to my place and nine times out of ten, they don't have the part I need in stock and have to order it. Which means a second trip to the dealer to pick it up when it arrives.

I'd rather order it online and have it shipped to my house.

 

YMMV

 

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...