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1996 K1100RS Advice Needed


radjxf

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Hey guys. I've been looking for a cheap BMW bike for a project to play around with. I'm in Montana so these things are pretty rare up here. Never owned a BMW before and personally don't know anyone who does (everyone rides an HD in MT it seems).

 

I found a used 1996 K1100RS on Craigslist with 14,775 miles. Listed as "excellent" condition, so being Craigslist you know that can mean absolutely anything!

Owner claimes he "inherited" it from his uncle and knows nothing about it. Says it ran when it was in his uncle's possession.

 

Here's what I found when I arrived:

 

1) Turning the key to on: nothing happened. So while my son wiggled the positive battery cable, and I tried the key at least 20x, finally got some lights to come on the dash. Not sure if it was the very slightly loose connection at the positive terminal, or some other electrical gremlin.

 

2) With bike upright and kickstand UP (I've heard about the switch in there) it just cranks and cranks but wouldn't fire.. We squirted some ether (starting fluid) into an air intake on the right side and it quickly sprung to life, but would only run for 2-3 seconds on the starting fluid. Owner wouldn't let me do anything else to the bike for fear of damage.

 

3) Noticed the ECU was just lying loose on top of the battery---could not find where it mounted? Can't be good.

 

4) Saw a blue 3 or 4 pin female connector near the ECU not attached to anything. No idea what that was for.

 

5) With clutch pulled in, I could only shift down to first, then up to neutral, then up to 2nd. Absolutley would not shift up any more gears. Is this normal with it NOT running?

 

6) I never heard the electrical whirring noises I'm used to hearing from the fuel pump when turning on the bike. Maybe it's not like a car where you hear it prime up the pressure before starting.

 

7) Front brake lever doesn't seem to release all the way. You have to push it back forward. Front and rear brakes did work just pushing it around the shop.

 

More bad stuff:

 

Fairing has stress cracks in several places, but not broken all the way through.

BOTH front mirror/turn signal assemblies are missing.

One rear turn signal missing.

Fork seals leaking.

The aluminum mount on the right side that contains the passenger foot peg is broken off.

Owner can't find the title---but says he'll keep looking "he knows he has it somewhere".

 

If the owner can find the title, I can get the bike as-is for $900. What do you guys think?

The bad part about being in MT is the closest dealer is 6 hours away and used parts seem difficult to find so far, i.e. mirrors, etc.

I'm not afraid to wrench on things, but thinking this could turn into a money pit fast.

 

In the meantime, I'll continue lurking and searching in my minimal free time. Any advice or opinions very much appreciated!

 

 

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Afternoon radjxf

 

 

 

 

 

1) Turning the key to on: nothing happened. So while my son wiggled the positive battery cable, and I tried the key at least 20x, finally got some lights to come on the dash. Not sure if it was the very slightly loose connection at the positive terminal, or some other electrical gremlin.--Could be just a bad or high resistance connection but without being there no way to know for sure.

 

2) With bike upright and kickstand UP (I've heard about the switch in there) it just cranks and cranks but wouldn't fire.. We squirted some ether (starting fluid) into an air intake on the right side and it quickly sprung to life, but would only run for 2-3 seconds on the starting fluid. Owner wouldn't let me do anything else to the bike for fear of damage.--Sounds like a bound up fuel pump or worse (like seized injectors) -- Again no way to tell you much without further testing.

 

3) Noticed the ECU was just lying loose on top of the battery---could not find where it mounted? Can't be good.--Sounds like someone has already been there & couldn't get it running.

 

4) Saw a blue 3 or 4 pin female connector near the ECU not attached to anything. No idea what that was for.--Probably the test connection for engine management & brakes.

 

5) With clutch pulled in, I could only shift down to first, then up to neutral, then up to 2nd. Absolutley would not shift up any more gears. Is this normal with it NOT running?--Could be normal without the trans shafts turning. (try turning the rear wheel while trying to upshift further).

 

6) I never heard the electrical whirring noises I'm used to hearing from the fuel pump when turning on the bike. Maybe it's not like a car where you hear it prime up the pressure before starting.--You should here the pump come on for a couple of seconds then stop-- Possibly a seized up pump if that bike was stored with old gasoline in it.

 

7) Front brake lever doesn't seem to release all the way. You have to push it back forward. Front and rear brakes did work just pushing it around the shop.--Not a good sign as that probably means VERY EXPENSIVE brake work in your future.

 

More bad stuff:

 

Fairing has stress cracks in several places, but not broken all the way through. Expensive to repair.

 

BOTH front mirror/turn signal assemblies are missing.--Fairly expensive to repair.

 

One rear turn signal missing.

Fork seals leaking.

The aluminum mount on the right side that contains the passenger foot peg is broken off. --Lots more $$$$$$$$$$$

 

 

 

Owner can't find the title---but says he'll keep looking "he knows he has it somewhere".--Hopefully he can't find it so he won't unload this bike on some unsuspecting buyer.

 

If the owner can find the title, I can get the bike as-is for $900. What do you guys think? --My personal opinion is: if he gave you that bike it would be overpriced. (before considering that bike do some research on the price of used or new BMW motorcycle parts). That bike sounds like a never ending money pit. You could very easily end up putting way more money into that bike than you could buy a low mile RUNNING shifting BMW.

 

If you want an expensive project that will eat up a lot of your time & money then you have found it. If you want a BMW to ride in the near future then look for something else.

 

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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Bert Remington

Follow DirtRider's advice. At best that's a parts bike. Several companies have been shipping motorcycles safely for decades. Basically anywhere in US to MT will be about $600. So investigate Cycle Trader, eBay, et al for 1997-2000 R1100RTs (mature design, easiest to maintain); carefully research seller; invest in remote inspection or travel there yourself; and buy a reliable, well-equipped motorcycle for about $2,500 (plus shipping). The 2-3 months research to find the right bike will be much easier and cheaper than getting that 1996 back on the road. BTW your title says K bike but you're in Oilheads ® so I assume typo. Even if you meant K I still recommend R for ROI fun mileage reasons. Read this and other Oilhead fora and you will see what I mean.

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My apologies. It is indeed a K1100RS. Perhaps I should have placed this in "K-Bikes" duh! or Wetheads. Was hoping it would only need a fuel pump and/or relay to get running for use as a short-trip beater bike. Sounds loud and clear that collective wisdom says to stay away. I'm doubtful this guy will produce a title, which he stated he had before I drove 1.5 hrs to see it....

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My apologies. It is indeed a K1100RS. Perhaps I should have placed this in "K-Bikes" duh! or Wetheads. Was hoping it would only need a fuel pump and/or relay to get running for use as a short-trip beater bike. Sounds loud and clear that collective wisdom says to stay away. I'm doubtful this guy will produce a title, which he stated he had before I drove 1.5 hrs to see it....

 

Evening radjxf

 

No problems, you had it labeled as a "K" bike. It doesn't make much difference as either way that bike could be a money pit.

 

It might very well need a fuel pump & if it does that probably means sour alcohol laced fuel was left in it W-A-Y too long so it might also need injectors.

 

Then with the fueling computer hanging out that might very well point to someone buggered that up trying to jump things.

 

If you want to use it as a learner & want to spend some money (& a lot of time) then that would be the bike but if you want a deal on a rider then you should probably pass on that one.

 

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Run. Run now.

Brake lines, master cylinders, fuel pump and related lines, after you do all that and ride it a few times, the waterpump/oil pump will start to leak out the pee hole. Then it will need replacing .easy task but lots of $$$.

New tires due to age.

The ECU has to be unbolted to remove the battery , no big deal.

 

But run.

 

 

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