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Throttle Body Sync


dave_a

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Is the 2002 Carl Kulow / OilHead Maintenance Manual the definitive "How to sync" procedure for me to use on my 1999 R1100R ?

My Chilton doesn't mention the BBS.

Thanks,

D

 

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Is the 2002 Carl Kulow / OilHead Maintenance Manual the definitive "How to sync" procedure for me to use on my 1999 R1100R ?

My Chilton doesn't mention the BBS.

Thanks,

D

 

Evening Dave

 

Not from my point of view-- I didn't read all the way through but some of the Lentini stuff is outdated or just plain wrong. I saw some strange valve settings offered.

 

Personally I wouldn't use any of the info in the .PDF that comes up when I Googled "Carl Kulow / OilHead Maintenance Manual" without posting here in detail what you are doing & if it is correct.

 

Some things might be OK but without knowing (exactly) what you are doing or planning on doing then there is no way know if the info offered is correct.

 

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So DR - is there a write up anywhere to use you might forward?

I have a nice Carbtune sync tool to use. Valves done not long ago, fresh plugs and an air filter service.

Bike has no running issue, other than a new bit of surging at light throttle cruise 30/40mph.

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So DR - is there a write up anywhere to use you might forward?

I have a nice Carbtune sync tool to use. Valves done not long ago, fresh plugs and an air filter service.

Bike has no running issue, other than a new bit of surging at light throttle cruise 30/40mph.

 

Morning Dave

 

I'm sure there is but I don't have one to send as I have my own time tested procedures.

 

If you are looking for a step by step then maybe someone has one that works to send you.

 

Problem with most posted step-by-step is they don't take into account anomalies that crop up & can skew the results.

 

I'm also not a big fan of the Carbtune but some do use it with success.

 

 

 

 

 

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Is the 2002 Carl Kulow / OilHead Maintenance Manual the definitive "How to sync" procedure for me to use on my 1999 R1100R ?

 

That document has several methods for TB sync. As DR says, some of them are misguided. But the procedure on pp. 52-53 by Bob Gorman is good. Don't mess with the Throttle Position Sensor unless you do more research. And, you will need some kind of differential vacuum meter. For a long time I used a penny-tech system of transmission fluid in a long piece of vinyl tubing. But I eventually purchased a dedicated electronic system called a CarbMate, and I a find that this tool is a big time-saver.

 

The bottom line is that you loosen the throttle cable on one side, then set the balance at idle using the BBS, then set the balance at higher revs by adjusting the previously loosened throttle cable. Done.

 

This assumes you have already done a valve adjustment, and the bike is otherwise in good tune and good mechanical condition. I like Jim von Baden's valve adjustment method. I have also tried OVAD and Anton's methods, but found von Baden's to be quick and easy. YMMV

 

Cap

 

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I appreciate the replies guys, thanks. I'll leave the TPS alone. From what I'm reading the challenge seems to get both the butterflies to move at the same time and stay somewhat in sync at larger openings.

My BBS are 1 1/4 & 1 3/4 so I'll try them at 1 1/2 with backed off right side cable. Then even up the butterfly timing and see what I have at 2500 or so.

Sound about right?

D

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Jim - I live in Fernandina Beach, sent you a pm.

The PM didn't come through. I live in NW St Johns County. You're welcome to come down some time and I'll show you how I do it.

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I appreciate the replies guys, thanks. I'll leave the TPS alone. From what I'm reading the challenge seems to get both the butterflies to move at the same time and stay somewhat in sync at larger openings.

My BBS are 1 1/4 & 1 3/4 so I'll try them at 1 1/2 with backed off right side cable. Then even up the butterfly timing and see what I have at 2500 or so.

Sound about right?

D

 

Morning dave_a

 

Don't back the R/H cable off as you have a split cable system. You need a bit of slack in BOTH cables with choke OFF. (if you back the R/H cable off you will just have to re-set it again)

 

Look up by the twist grip for a rubber boot over the main throttle cable (if your bike has one), if you find that sliding boot just slide it down the cable a little ways then back the main cable adjust off a little (just enough to have slack in BOTH SIDE cables at the TB's)

 

Then make sure that both side TB's have a little cable slack with choke OFF.

 

Next remove the BBS screws & clean the brass screw tips & clean the BBS screw bores & internal seats (you won't get a decent setting if the screw tips or bores are full of coke & crud)_ Use an o2 & cat converter safe cleaner to clean the internal BBS seats & remove the evap hoses (or vacuum plugs) from the TB nipples so the cleaner & crud can run out the nipples.

 

Then screw the BBS screws back in to lightly seated the back them out 1-1/2 turns. Then rep-plug the TB nipples or connect the hoses.

 

Now set the hot engine base idle cross side balance using the BBS screws to get the idle RPM & cross side balance where you need it. (if you end up with more than 1/2 turn delta between BBS screws then stop the balance procedure & find out why.

 

Once you have the curb idle & BBS set correctly then do the above idle (mid range) cross side balance using the cable settings.

 

Once the base idle & above idle are correctly set then go back to the main cable adjuster (up by the twist grip) & remove most of the cable slack until you get the twist grip slack where you want it without holding either TB cam off it's base idle screw.

 

As a last thing-- make sure that both side TB cams lift off their base idle screws at the EXACT SAME TIME & hit the Wide Open Stops at the EXACT SAME TIME.

 

 

 

 

 

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