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R1100RT Clutch


wqbusch

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Just picked this bike up. Clutch at lever was adjusted all the way out. Now clutch is slipping. Whats a good clutch package to get for replacement and where do you buy it.

 

Thanks

Walt

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Bert Remington

Do you want a performance or regular clutch? If the latter Beemer Boneyard has a complete kit at a good price. I bought one but haven't installed it yet.

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I picked up a lightly used (~5000 miles) complete clutch assembly from Beemer Boneyard about 30,000 miles ago. Twenty-four hours in, I thought I had gotten in way over my head, with parts strewn about my garage, but I finished the job ahead of schedule and under budget (possibly the first time ever for both). Replacing the clutch doesn't require a great deal of skill, just tedious attention to detail.

 

Take photos at every step of the way. When I finished, I found one connector for which I couldn't identify a mate. I posted a photo to this forum, and learned that it never had anything connected to it. The only special tools you need are a pair of locating pins for aligning the transmission when it goes back in place. A couple of metric machine screws, with the heads sawed off, and screwdriver slots cut in to the non-threaded ends are easy to make. While I had everything apart, I also re-wrapped the main wiring harness, and replaced the rubber brake lines with stainless steel lines.

 

Photos: https://goo.gl/tif5bd

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Just picked this bike up. Clutch at lever was adjusted all the way out. Now clutch is slipping. Whats a good clutch package to get for replacement and where do you buy it.

Walt

 

Morning Walt

 

Have you adjusted in both places, there is a lower adjustment bolt inside the rear trans

housing (kind of a pain to get to).

 

Set the upper (handlebar lever cable gap to about 7 mm then adjust the lower to give you the

lever play that you want then see if your clutch still slips.

 

If it still slips then you will probably need to take it apart before buying clutch parts as there were

a coupe of versions of 1100 clutches. You might also have an oil leak (engine rear main or trans front seal)

that is the reason for your clutch slipping so that will have to be sorted out before installing a new expensive clutch.

 

lFeNONJ.jpg

 

 

 

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Bike has 52k on it. Clutch does not slip till I start to twist throttle and torque and horsepower builds in 3 4 5 gears. Thank you for the photo but I have no idea what i am looking at. How do I get to that area. Ordering a repair manual this week which do you recommend.

 

Walt

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Bike has 52k on it. Clutch does not slip till I start to twist throttle and torque and horsepower builds in 3 4 5 gears. Thank you for the photo but I have no idea what i am looking at. How do I get to that area. Ordering a repair manual this week which do you recommend.

 

Walt

 

Afternoon Walt

 

That is the rear of the transmission shown, that is the clutch lever adjustment bolt shown (just in front on the rear swing arm attachment). You need to loosen the nut then adjust the bolt, then hold the bolt & re-tighten the nut (in most cases you can hold the bolt by zip tying the clutch lever to the grip).

 

Now getting to that bolt is a REAL PAIN, some remove the side plate, some remove the rear wheel & pull the inner fender liner back, some can reach in there & work by feel (that I how I usually do it).

 

If adjusting the lower clutch adjuster bolt seems difficult that is a 1 on the scale of 1-10 compared to replacing the clutch as that is 9 on the scale of 1-10.

 

As for manuals?-- My personal choice is the BMW service manual in conjunction with either the Haynes or Clymer as both the Haynes & Clymer have some errors in them but they do have better pictures & are written more for the home mechanic. I like the BMW manual for the specifications & specifics but even those have some issues as BMW has updated some of the parts & procedures over the years.

 

The BMW manual assumes you already know the basics so only gives the base info without any real how-to (like the lower clutch adjustment, the BMW manual doesn't show you HOW it shows the specs & how to achieve them).

 

Do not try to replace that clutch without a proper manual (2 manuals is better) as there are some key parts that positively need to be heated to certain temps or risk of thread damage to the alloy part is very possible.

 

You can get a LOT of info by using the SEARCH function on this site--

 

 

T8rQBed.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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Bike has 52k on it. Clutch does not slip till I start to twist throttle and torque and horsepower builds in 3 4 5 gears. Thank you for the photo but I have no idea what i am looking at. How do I get to that area. Ordering a repair manual this week which do you recommend.

 

Walt

 

The clutch cable adjustment is, a 12 mm gap at the lever between the adjuster locknut and lever body.

Once a 12 mm gap is set, then you set a 7 mm free play in the lever by adjusting the bolt down at the transmission.

If you kneel down, way down, by the rear tire and look forward ahead of the rear shock you'll see arm of the clutch.

You might have to lift up a little mud flap. You should see the adjuster bolt and lock nut. It's very tricky to get in there because the space is very tight.

Easier if you remove the rear tire and much easier if you remove the foot peg plate.

 

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Thanks so much, Great forum. This is my 3rd BMW. Had an 82 R100RS and an 84 R100R, Its been over 20 years since I had those bikes. But looking for a R1100RT for a couple years. When I took this bike for a test ride I didn't get on it so the clutch never slipped. I have only riden this bike twice and absolutely love it. Can't even get mad at the Pastor who sold it to me.

 

Walt

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To access the bolt I suggest removing the left side plate. I have used both methods and was impressed by how little work it was that way relative to going in from the rear wheel area. I'll see if I can find a link to details a little later.

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Is there anything tricky about taking that left side plate off?

 

Walt

 

No, not really. If you have power outlets down there by the pegs, they are attached to the plate. There is a connector on the harness there that will release the wiring. Also, take note of the shift lever adjustment bolt. There are two positions for it. If you are going to release it, you should know where to put it later.

 

If you completely remove the plate, it's a very good time to grease the shift linkage connections.

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