28 litre top case re-key

Well, I have a 28 litre top case and unfortunately I didn't have the correct key. "No problem", I thought, there will be loads of help and links on the internet.

Well, indeed there are several links, but despite following their advice, I could not remove the lock barrel from the top box. I am a fairly patient man so assumed I was doing something wrong, so kept trying. The principle advised was this: Obtain a piece of wire, bend a little foot on the end of it and then through a small access hole found when the lid is opened; fish around to try and push the locking tumbler inward. After some considerable time, I decided it was going no-where.

So I Started dismantling the box. Once disassembled I realised why fishing around wouldn't work. The design of the box must be different from the earlier boxes. The TINY access hole for the locking tumbler is masked by a cover plate and also by one of the mechanism springs.

Refer to the attached document and follow these steps.

http://www.moto24.co.uk/media/downloads/english/BMW_Motorrad/Topcase/Disassembling_the_28_Liter_Top_Case.pdf

So, here is a rundown of how I did it:

make a note of the length and size of the screws you remove. There are several different sizes.

WHEN REINSERTING THE TORX SCREWS, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM. YOU WILL STRIP THE THREADS FROM THE HOUSINGS!

You will need a variety of flat bladed screwdrivers. Torx T15, T20 and T25 bits. Small long nose pliers. Torch (flashlight) 8mm AF Spanner

1/. Unclip the lid retaining cord from the keyhole slot in the lower section of the top box.

2/. Remove the 4 internal screws that secure the hinges to the lower section of the top box and remove the lid to a safe place.

3/. Remove the 2 screws at the rear top surface of the top box.

4/. Remove the 5 screw that secure the inner section of the top box to the base section.

5/. If the man top box release handle is 'locked' down, spring the rear section of the inner liner away from the base section sufficiently to allow you screwdriver access to the lock. Once access is gained, slide the nipple of the visible Bowden cable to the right. This will release the Main locking handle.

6/. Underneath the lid opening handle you will find 2 x M5 stiff nuts. Remove these along with the washers.

7/. Also visible beneath the lid handle will be 2 Torx screws. Remove these.

8/. The handle assembly can now be lifted away and stowed.

9/. Once the handle has been removed, this will expose 2 more Torx screws. These can be removed.

10/. This next stage feels barbaric, but it has to be done. Invert the top box. Spring the inner lining away from the base section whilst pushing the 2 x M5 handle retaining studs into the holes.

11/. Lift the base section clear of the inner liner. You will have to carefully 'jiggle' the locking feet out of the base section.

12/. Now you have access to the lock. If you look carefully at the outboard side of the lock you will see a 1/16" hole (which maybe partially hidden by the large coil spring.

13/. Insert a suitable key (this acts as the puller tool). Now into the small hole mentioned above, insert a small drill or Allen key into this hole and gently push.

14/. Whilst pulling on the key and pressing in on the drill of Allen key, the tumbler will now release.

Do not lose the retaining tumbler (or indeed any of the tumblers). Leave the key inserted and this will retain most of the tumblers. Now take the lock to a BMW dealer and chances are he will have a load of old tumblers you can substitute.

There are plenty of YouTube links guiding you through the tumbler change procedure. It is easy and quick, but it is even quicker when your BMW dealer does it and doesn't charge you a penny! (Like mine - a big 'up' for good old CW Motorcycles).

Reassembly is pretty much the reverse procedure but there are a couple of things to watch out for.

a/. Ensure the Bowden cables are correctly located in their various retainers.

b/. When assembling the base cover over the inner liner, lay the inner liner on a bench and ensure the locking feet are fully unlocked and that their pivot pins are correctly located in their housings. Lower the base unit over the locking feet and then slide rearward and down onto the inner liner. The case will need springing to allow the 2 M5 hand retaining studs to pass through their holes on the base unit.

c/. Where the handle assembly locates, you will see 2 sets of teeth. Using a flat blade screwdriver - these 2 'racks' need to be slid fully toward the locking feet. This will allow the handles to engage and articulate through their range of movement correctly.

d/. Insert the 2 longer screws into the lower 2 screw hole of at the rear of the base section.

e/. Engage the geared section of the opened handle to engage with the 2 off toothed 'racks'. However ensure the main locking handle isn't interfering with the case. If it is fitted when it is opened too wide, if so it will try to impart too much movement to the toothed rack and will not close fully.

f/. Ensure the 2 x M5 studs are protruding fully so the handle can engage. If not, protect the threads and pull them outwards.

g/. Fit the 2 x M5 washers and 2 x M5 nuts and secure the handle in place.

h/. Install the 2 smaller Torx screws into the remaining handle securing holes.

I/. Now check the operation of both the locking handle and the lid opening handle. Remember you need to depress the lock section to release the lid.

j/. Before fitting the remaining screws, ensure that the REAR lid retaining mechanism is correctly located in front of the inner liner. If you can see the plastic tab of the rear lid release mechanism then you need to spring this forward of the hole in the inner liner.

k/. Fit the 5 screws that secure the base of the inner liner to the base unit.

l/. Refit the lid

m/. Refit the lid strap.

That's a shame you went thru that. I've done it once and swore never again.

I have a serous of videos that people all over the world have found helpful to remov the lock cylinders with a tool I either send them or send pictures of so they can make their own.

I've walked people thru the process from Italy, Greece, the Netherlands and in only one instance the lock cylinder was not removed with the use of my tool that is inserted thru the key opening.

They are on a YouTube by ClassicCycleConnection .

There are videos for the older System cases, the current luggage and my Border Collie eating melon.

This video shows the tool and what it does.

Hi Tri, I have seen that video, however, seeing how difficult it was to move that release tumbler when you had it right in front of you, I con only try to imagine how difficult it would be when it is installed and you cant see which tumbler you are fishing for let alone whether it has moved or not. Anyhow, sometime soon - just for the fun of it - I'm going to have a go doing it that way!

After recently doing a set on a Liquid Cooled Adventure, I will gave an update.

On dealer ordered locks (by VIN) the left side of the lock cylinder as it's mounted in the case is the side to work with the tool.

The right side has the wafer locking pin running thru it.

As far as difficulty, one can have the case in ones lap in front of the TV on the old recliner and be successful removing the cylinder .

It's patience and persistence as since there is no built in release ledge in which to hook, one has to rely on friction alone which has worked for me and others for many years.

I have used this tool and it does work. Not difficult but patience is a virtue. If one had several locks to remove the job would become very easy.

Dealers quote 3 hrs to disassemble case.

Typical German engineering. The design could be much simpler and you would still have security but.....