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Lowering the handle bars


temesvar

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Was wondering if anyone has lowered the handle bars on a RT?

I have lowered the suspension and low seat, in order to make the bike more comfortable for my short inseam.

Now the handlebars seam a bit to high, so would like to lower/shorten them about two inches.

Could machine the upper yoke and mount a regular handle bar, but would prefer to keep the sturdy

two piece casted handle bars. Thanks for any suggestions!

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Many of the gravity challenged riders choose to use the "Bar Backs" for the RT's no matter the generation.

This reduces the reach by a couple inches and may help you out.

The blocks actually raise the bars if you look at them but with the downhill slope of the top tripe clamp, they stay pretty level.

With an install time of 15min or so, it's might be worth a shot. Normally you need to snip a plastic zip tie or two to bring the bars back and turn them lock to lock without stretching the cables .

 

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Many of the gravity challenged riders choose to use the "Bar Backs" for the RT's no matter the generation.

This reduces the reach by a couple inches and may help you out.

The blocks actually raise the bars if you look at them but with the downhill slope of the top tripe clamp, they stay pretty level.

With an install time of 15min or so, it's might be worth a shot. Normally you need to snip a plastic zip tie or two to bring the bars back and turn them lock to lock without stretching the cables .

Thanks for the suggestion. Can get a set of those for $95, but will not solve my problem. By no means do I want the bars closer to me!

What I want to accomplish is to lower and also to move further about a couple of inches. Reason is riding position rather slightly inclined forward.

Therefore the weight being taken of the spine and transfer on to the arms. Am not claiming to be right, but is what I prefer!!

I just purchased a set of used bars on eBay and will have something to play with in the winter months. Am machinist, so will not be a problem.

When started this thread was hoping there may be some after market shorter bars. But the market is never for shorter, we all aim for longer, right?? :grin:

 

.

 

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I made clamps to mount standard round bars to my R1100RT. Worked great.

 

Made flat plates from 1/2" aluminum in the shape of the lower end of the cast BMW bar mounts. Made standard-type round bar mount clamps, again from 1/2" stock, bolted vertically to the new plates from below using recessed Allen bolts. Only used 3 of the 4 lower plate mounting bolts to allow space for the two vertical Allen bolts. Now you can choose any bar shape you want, although be sure to check bar-end and lever clearance to fuel tank, tank bag and fairing with steering at full lock. May need to consider limiting steering lock for use of your bar shape choice. I ended up with much shorter bars vs. the stock BMW's.

 

This is not a difficult or complicated task for a machinist, so enjoy the project.

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Most risers for this bike are just blocks of aluminum with extra holes to move the bars back and up. Thinner blocks or steel plate moving the bars forward might achieve your forward lean and would be easy to machine. Maybe mock them up out of plywood first to check clearances.

Edited by lkraus
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Most risers for this bike are just blocks of aluminum with extra holes to move the bars back and up. Thinner blocks or steel plate moving the bars forward might achieve your forward lean and would be easy to machine. Maybe mock them up out of plywood first to check clearances.

Thanks, Larry. It sure is a good idea to make a wood prototype to see what surprises are ahead, before spending the time and material and notice that it will just not work! Been there a few times!!

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Many of the gravity challenged riders choose to use the "Bar Backs" for the RT's no matter the generation.

This reduces the reach by a couple inches and may help you out.

The blocks actually raise the bars if you look at them but with the downhill slope of the top tripe clamp, they stay pretty level.

With an install time of 15min or so, it's might be worth a shot. Normally you need to snip a plastic zip tie or two to bring the bars back and turn them lock to lock without stretching the cables .

Thanks for the suggestion. Can get a set of those for $95, but will not solve my problem. By no means do I want the bars closer to me!

What I want to accomplish is to lower and also to move further about a couple of inches. Reason is riding position rather slightly inclined forward.

Therefore the weight being taken of the spine and transfer on to the arms. Am not claiming to be right, but is what I prefer!!

I just purchased a set of used bars on eBay and will have something to play with in the winter months. Am machinist, so will not be a problem.

When started this thread was hoping there may be some after market shorter bars. But the market is never for shorter, we all aim for longer, right?? :grin:

 

.

 

Sounds like you need an RS...

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.

Sounds like you need an RS...

 

 

That is what I was looking for, more like for a ST. Couldn't find one that was worth buying, so here I am with this RT .

Love it as it is, but there is always a few things that could be improved.

 

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Just thought I'd chime in, these are what I have installed and they work great.

 

 

They ate Rox bar risers, here is a link.

 

https://shop.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rox-elite-pivot-risers-for-78-or-1-18-handlebars?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzfPFycel1wIVyVmGCh1pkwKTEAQYAyABEgIy1vD_BwE

 

 

Afternoon Cinko

 

Those won't work on the OP's 1200RT as the 1200RT has cast individual handlebar risers that bolt on each side individually (doesn't use a tubular handlebar) .

 

 

BaUqPIn.jpg

 

 

Edited by dirtrider
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Dirt Rider, your right clearly differnet, but that actually should be an easier fix as all you need to do is go to your local hardware store and grab the same SS metric socket screws an inch longer and thrown on 8 hardened 1" spacers below. The bars. That would raise it an inch (or what ever bolt and spacer length you get)

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Dirt Rider, your right clearly differnet, but that actually should be an easier fix as all you need to do is go to your local hardware store and grab the same SS metric socket screws an inch longer and thrown on 8 hardened 1" spacers below. The bars. That would raise it an inch (or what ever bolt and spacer length you get)

 

Evening Cinko

 

The OP wants to LOWER his bars not raise them. There are a great number of spacers on the internet to raise the RT bars but no good way to lower them as they bolt directly to the top of the upper triple tree.

 

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I'm blaming that response on the fact that I'm new to touring bikes and realized that now having saddle bags I could ride home today with two of these after my ride today...

 

tmp_10968_20171104_133500_989798276.jpg

 

On a side note I nataturally assumed most shorter riders have shorter arms so you would want to raise the bars to bring them closer not lower them to make them further away...

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I'm blaming that response on the fact that I'm new to touring bikes and realized that now having saddle bags I could ride home today with two of these after my ride today...

 

On a side note I nataturally assumed most shorter riders have shorter arms so you would want to raise the bars to bring them closer not lower them to make them further away...

 

There is nothing mathematically proportionate about most human bodies. I am 5'9" and my inseam is 29. I know people of same height with 32 inseam. By lowering the bars will not take the

grips farther nor will they be closer by rising them. Just the body position changes. As of yet, I sit straight up on the bike. I would prefer to be slightly inclined forward. That would take some

of my weight of my spine and transfer to my hands. But thanks for your input! Have a beer on me :beer:

 

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I made clamps to mount standard round bars to my R1100RT. Worked great.

 

Made flat plates from 1/2" aluminum in the shape of the lower end of the cast BMW bar mounts. Made standard-type round bar mount clamps, again from 1/2" stock, bolted vertically to the new plates from below using recessed Allen bolts. Only used 3 of the 4 lower plate mounting bolts to allow space for the two vertical Allen bolts. Now you can choose any bar shape you want, although be sure to check bar-end and lever clearance to fuel tank, tank bag and fairing with steering at full lock. May need to consider limiting steering lock for use of your bar shape choice. I ended up with much shorter bars vs. the stock BMW's.

 

This is not a difficult or complicated task for a machinist, so enjoy the project.

 

Am glad am not the only one who wants to lower the bars rather than raise them!

I already have a used top yoke,, a set of clamps and a handle bar. Would just have to

plug the taped holes (weld them) and drill holes to fit the clamps. No big deal there.

I just thought that there may be someone that works/casts aluminum, and can make

a set of handle bars just like the original ones, just a couple of inches shorter. Can only

go so much shorter, as it will hit the tank. Also, I prefer the sturdy solid 2 piece handles

as opposed to the one piece pipe bars.

Once done, will post a picture and let you know if all this effort was worth the trouble

Can always return to the original bars, as am keeping all parts unaltered. :dance:

 

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