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2004 Boxer Cup Replica


Utard

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I recently did a fly and ride to California and am now the happy owner of a 2004 Boxer Cup Replica :D

 

It's now mostly stripped down to do maintenance / upgrade a few things and I was hoping you all might have some advice for me

 

Some background...

 

Bike was in storage for about 2.5 months. I don't know how infrequently it was ridden before storage

 

Battery was dead after being in storage. Works well after charging

 

43,800 miles when I test rode it in California

 

44,800 miles now after riding it back to Utah

 

The headlight is useless

 

 

 

After a thousand miles and 2 bottles injector cleaner, this is the situation:

 

It idles rough at about 800 RPM and sometimes dies

 

It consistently hesitates 2-3 times between about 5200 and 7000 RPM (although not nearly as much as when I first rode it)

 

Headlight is still useless but I discovered that the high beam bulb had slipped out of position and was melting the reflection housing

 

 

 

This is my plan:

 

Do the 12,000 mile service (change all fluids, change the fuel, air and oil filter, new v-belt, adjust valves, balance TBs, replace plugs)

 

Replace R1100 injectors with a balanced set originally designed for the R1200 ( http://www.jt-c.com/product_info.php?info=p47_r1100xx-injector ) an encouraging thread on the topic ( http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/1200gs-injectors-in-the-1100gs-and-1150gs-vrooom.1181054/ )

 

Add an AX-FIED

 

Add Clearwater Darlas on the forks

 

Replace headlight assembly because of the high-beam, bad news melty situation (already have a used one on the way)

 

Add LED H1 & H7 headlight bulbs

 

 

Current unknowns are which LED bulbs would work best with the R1100S housing (I don't mind modifying the dust covers) and how to mount the Darlas (but this may work http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-fender-mount-for-dm-d2-lights-m5-m6-black )

 

Please share your thoughts and advice. I'm sure I've overlooked something and I'd appreciate your wisdom.

 

Thank you!

Edited by Utard
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Morning Utard

 

 

After a thousand miles and 2 bottles injector cleaner, this is the situation:

 

It idles rough at about 800 RPM and sometimes dies--You definitely need to get the idle higher but don't just turn the BBS screws out. At that mileage & bike's history you REALLY should remove the BBS screws then use some cat. converter & o2 sensor safe carb cleaner to clean the BBS screw air by-pass passages & BBS screw tips. If you don't clean the screw tips & passages under them you will chase that idle speed & stalling until you do.

 

It consistently hesitates 2-3 times between about 5200 and 7000 RPM (although not nearly as much as when I first rode it)--A lot of possibilities on this one. Might be injector related, might be a stick coil going bad, might be the o2 sensor getting lazy, might be a mis-routing of the o2 sensor pigtail wire harness routed too close to the R/H lower spark plug wire, might be a partially fouled spark plug, might be ???????????????. Do your service & clean the BBS passages, replace the spark plugs, replace the air filter, then do a good TB balance, etc. THEN see how it runs & go from there.

 

Headlight is still useless but I discovered that the high beam bulb had slipped out of position and was melting the reflection housing-- Yes, you need to get the repaired.

 

 

 

This is my plan

 

Do the 12,000 mile service (change all fluids, change the fuel, air and oil filter, new v-belt, adjust valves, balance TBs, replace plugs)-- Great idea.

 

Replace R1100 injectors with a balanced set originally designed for the R1200 ( http://www.jt-c.com/product_info.php?info=p47_r1100xx-injector ) an encouraging thread on the topic ( http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/1200gs-injectors-in-the-1100gs-and-1150gs-vrooom.1181054/ )-- Personally I would hold off on this until you get everything else done. A good service, TB sync, & the AX-FIED might be all it needs to run good.

 

Add an AX-FIED-- This should help the runability, just make sure that it has the correct CCP & a good operating quick-responding o2 sensor in that bike.

 

Add Clearwater Darlas on the forks--This is a personal choice but if that is what you want then add them.

 

Replace headlight assembly because of the high-beam, bad news melty situation (already have a used one on the way)-- Good plan.

 

Add LED H1 & H7 headlight bulbs-- If this is what you want. Personally I don't favor illegal headlight bulbs due to accident blame assignment but that is a personal call.

 

 

Current unknowns are which LED bulbs would work best with the R1100S housing (I don't mind modifying the dust covers) and how to mount the Darlas (but this may work http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-fender-mount-for-dm-d2-lights-m5-m6-black )

 

Please share your thoughts and advice. I'm sure I've overlooked something and I'd appreciate your wisdom.--On replacing the alternator belt (it isn't a V belt but an elastic belt. On the late Boxer Cup Replica those bike's can be difficult to pre-order the correct alternator belt. If possible remove the front cover & get the belt number off of the old belt, or see if the alternator has a standard pulley or a free-wheeling pulley (alternator pulley type makes a difference on belt selection). If your bike has the freewheeling pulley then belt tension is set by upper/lower pulley spacing (not 1/4 twist or torque).

 

 

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Utard, CONGRATS on the bike!! Gorgeous bikes!! PLEASE POST SOME PICS!!

 

I have had excellent results with Cyclops headlight bulbs and the CUSTOMER SERVICE there. They are a little higher priced than the cheapo ebay bulbs but are higher performance in lumens, color, and durability.

 

url=https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/led-headlight-bulbs.html]CYCLOPS[/url]

 

For replacing the turn signal and brake light bulbs, look at the selection at SuperBrightLEDS: SuperbrightLEDS

 

They also have a very good vehicle bulb finder that includes BMW motorcycles.

 

I believe the BCR and R1100S engines are very similar (and more like the R1150 engines than R1100's), maybe Dirtrider can confirm.

 

I've got three sets of EV14 injectors (for R1100S, R1100RT, K1200RS) from Keith Gibbons at Injector-Rehab in NJ: Injector Rehab

 

Keith sells NEW and refurbished injectors including Bosch, plus all the adapters and O-rings, seals, filters, etc. He has these as kits and as individual pieces. He also has very fast delivery. The recons I bought came with the individual flow test report for those two injectors showing identical fuel flow at all ranges.

 

When you start swapping the injectors is a very good time to do the TB and BBS cleaning. Use a big can of spray cleaner on each side. Getting the injectors seated can be a struggle with the new O-rings and adapters. I found that a Q-tip dipped in engine oil wiped around each O-ring really helps things go easier and faster.

 

Of all the upgrades on my R1100S so far, the AF-Xied has been the best (and cheapest) engine enhancement/improvement so far, although the Induct, SJ air filter let it spin up faster

 

You might look into the HES wiring. Your '04 may have the high temp rated wiring, not prone to failure like the earlier wiring.

 

Also, if your bike has the old style large black brake lines, you'll want to replace them with Spieglers or Galfer PTFE and stainless steel braid lines.

 

Lots of room for the LED fan on the H7 low beam bulb. This pic was before the hi beam replacement. It was a tighter fit but works.

 

LhFKa71kteLkxBSmNhL3Dk9glH7jsy__nFaA6_GyXgWROqzBBQQVs9m4nsW0hdcNwyNCROkpt7UiaeElES_QVAoE6YScpiAICCg7DCClZmXHsYGMnkaWMvB2n69O8zwOmTYzqP4AwW1HtRmb3sHTQ2MK88Ona7brVD8cm34_VHmoLSfeAwvfZXE0CBZVBhfzupluKD9tAI9ev7qHxGvEV2SWWiUuNOYiP2Rt750BT_iad-emyugDDsmB5_Y5t3id020M_uwtledEeu4v5YYnXtPHq_LqX8N4WvmjjvhPQfAzM4YP38_6UmrGEri4xYsvac35pQkfZy1nCuGJEtW8vJa2408uyuk-NFepTdJfqE3JWXxEX_4CKqxsznqVLtbwLp1-scMMNg2uZEDCIE6KFxLPQLdgtLfjr10IDOQvy6V5W14mtnJ5_EbkhqwgQr7aO3JNcrj2DLWDh6hAREC62f3vqUGKsWt9yNRqoZYXHVYeYNP5pzNH6mfmohN2KdK8d_2n6VvKnga5IJjOcvKeQaRaXkMWNQrH2ORlhwZz7m8PNDwTxeU8w2ufMmIXVzjrLr2KSIjOlM_YK-4JK1rn10SaTqBTOo0zm0RMH2hkZz88E4DWm4WrLk2kVBE6QdXPVhCKFBl4_feZq5uXKX7eOOdzfphtjkhT1gAO=w1259-h708-no?.jpg

 

Injector and adapter:

 

0EcSmT2-d9ZCCCisShTViblD_bV0OeJ1Hvh1dEgR6gEpDVXI-W5JV7GPoyFMX0zUcRdFizH4s1NLOpij76sr_Vc2NUuqfmigjE_Fmfkl3T-Itb-7h1St7ffFXU7_5RR-kMqUiGtkVk4-nj9P2zRSTVR8-lkyztvDPI5qMQQ9zU4DblSmCFMWFGv89jm8qi02rvuKCaf6xzdcl001bnIpKyPDWyWeIopm2IZI-c67IGHSJ8MeUW8VM89ouJL_aDFfadmXDj7SD2KJOPSZkW737Ss-exnnyTTykHOiioHZKQXaqBMbViYEy-5zjSS_4jQ-mkNM10sqC06EVUA3Ms0uGfpysjop6iSjJFRHDpCOPBZjSWdQS00wRjukDdDD1LsHDnaacIEyoygfSWCswNrOEQ_Wjh2K4dAeHkRb00nROhE3flAIjFOw4CpKcIbnJw_IpMSwab0Rgr07AV-y5CfA69qOsjwgr1oUGePTbs_g6dGIBqqJcL0nzIv-24epfPCaUpp-OqPF1Yk_B_c3sDhiVHnYfc6g2sbXM_nE7h1Erpwjc9kQyQ-dcXJZ2_-24Uxq3e6UUSuTtRu6m702klOJvDW49GO8WkAZ_rqkH0SbJQd8QsV5UMl11kDKNrw0FaVUXqcYSzN4KX0KV-wcoCsW0jlDvNq2ecnzwT59=w531-h708-no?.jpg

 

 

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Lowndes, would you please let me know how the Cyclops LEDs are held in the back of the headlight housing? Were you still able to use the little OEM plate and retaining clip to keep them secure?

 

Thanks!

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Utard,

 

YES - you WILL NEED to know this. I tried for about 90 minutes to get it installed. The clip wires get caught in the fan vents. Drove me nuts. It would almost go, then pop loose. My brother (he's a lot smarter than I am) heard the commotion, walked over, pulled the LED bulb out, looked at it, REMOVED THE MOUNT RING FROM THE BULB, INSTALLED THE MOUNT RING IN THE REFLECTOR WITH THE OEM RETAINING CLIP, THEN INSERTED THE BULB IN THE MOUNT RING. (just like the instructions say to do it) It took him about 30 seconds, tops.

 

A lot of these LED bulbs are identical except for the "mount ring". Those are designed as "adapters" to; 1) mount the LED "filament" with the correct placement in the reflector for the light pattern and, 2) provide the correct mounting base shape for the type of bulb (H3, H7, etc.).

Edited by Lowndes
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Hello Lowndes, I just ordered the cyclops bulbs and am going to also order a headlight modulator from Kisan.

 

Can you tell me if the the LED bulb have 2 tabs and does it separate from the cooling fan? I'm asking because the headlight modulator would need to be placed in between the LED bulb and fan.

Edited by Utard
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Hello Lowndes, I just ordered the cyclops bulbs and am going to also order a headlight modulator from Kisan.

 

Can you tell me if the the LED bulb have 2 tabs and does it separate from the cooling fan? I'm asking because the headlight modulator would need to be placed in between the LED bulb and fan.

 

Utard,

 

The LED "bulb" is a one-piece unit: the "bulb" or LED element part, with the cooling fan mounted directly on and part of the "bulb" (for efficient heat transfer?), with the "pigtail" connector and ballast or "bulb driver" box with a short lead to the two-blade connector.

 

I just stuffed the entire pigtail with ballast box into the space between the reflector and outer shell directly below the bulb and connect to the OEM bulb connector there. The air circulation by the fan inside the shell is enough to keep everything happy (so far). I have a Kisan modulator on the K1200 headlight, installed on the OEM wiring before it gets to the headlight. It, therefore, modulates the LED and fan, if that is your concern.

 

A constant on-off power supply would be bad for an incandescent bulb, not sure about a fan motor. However, I believe the Kisan is a hi-lo rather than on-off. I've read that is OK for LED's and that they run cooler that way rather than constant on.

 

The following pics are another brand (from ebay) but basically the same construction as the Cyclops unit, and handy for pics.

 

The complete unit:

 

V2VSBPSzcFv1b1xThtjzTyuPnlxAXzR7t4EMJkgHmwHD3fegqNMHYkKwjQMmcdX0awpUfUKtO6nv3owPGv3-mw64AMnKBVzO8o3Fl6Mgkz4DT-OepbsYMeqUcYu7a9oqkkXk6bDvUK5_lEs6TpDukBJKOXem9HaomZuKZnBcgU8QIcgmb4r_w6fMRrW4Q2Sd288D151XaMVNMK-7Hrde2lcEAalyux1uGP443D6iP1-diV6fpVWggEe07o6jZ2wMqpmK0OLq0tXpa2RXmaM8urtbF6lU_vahOzBuhtVI4tgEIdLAvS1bKkVbpvnIlumxUC31lnFTdfV6RvCrA_QzPcpDEUz4rMxP51jlCv2l17FPIY-6W6bldnFDLTpDxwKjuFiYFb4e1iZevRrAq_DuGyD0RbyNmjP2u8sk5pdAeIPMoSBN8jbAQ5PQomBcThZ_SCHrp-nI2AdLSsw7DDlch5cj1FkDOniv2tnPXByspuwJQ1aSJB9o72HywiuCitp2mUtKKvgyEwKWMyd0y4Cxhq4m0leegv3oMxZk9m3M-EWmKUMbiLH02U8XeZAhL-qo82n3VMFG8xLTWbRHGsTPWpXrsUfU_2czokKqcN2HiXfcNIL7CKODJ-agtcamDoI6Gy6rg1JXSzhFILZXWUcwufdLsqU0kDoCTT0N=w531-h708-no?.jpg

 

 

The mounting ring/adapter removed:

 

KfMcn4X2TKM8lFXmckIMF9TbSgpXZpktnNYxIgofy_pPD8bats8ZBXou6Rsfvt5ItyXbBoY9wB9e1xXBmK1DdNKdOsfvz2mKxL20D7vE1BkEhpoQf87AK3607bWRdWAa_ZOxWW2PyExCxn9xLQ9XLp788FpM89IUcqQShjNhLI0jHf_OtXPonO3H8sAt0fyK2NMzuj7gDTBQYtZiMzW_zpD2BVPfJwAWO_JSSi2OwRI_aGPcm-NdDFLrBNF_JvKfDG_vJrWPTax5KU0r9c-yuFrav-on0Ka1IJ1jk0V9kwJCDUmEXrJvqT8Sa4OAc22rPPZC-WNLZodjRsBsZQYdQlmi8yTWZ8tNTdzVZtxCqOtZ7KSomk8lw9QT9ps_bEf5PxT5yNcejoN3-6ipNOt47eNKJkZ8eosigKcfGAXSjW3o5GDi60gopQ6xVAnj_uoYV9neBrhizPnRD1l4YC9doD7uGpUv6m9iBhveTfb1qORCgAY0jV72OPMJp3B9wha0XI40ohGhR2wEmQTbNkxYMCrNPflRdNrVf9rn8qOiLdEsRJj9pf26CQmQlYslVlGK_0WX0t1kM_yOA1RC_C3QAR9HF7SKoZ25IRi9L-Ps74fuW3SSnx6C3rseUHKG0B-0rWxaCwEDJwiGWhoxZ17Y0utTld9_2YMqmfS1=w531-h707-no?.jpg

 

 

Closeup of the "bayonette" twist and lock:

 

mlXo0S8YF8nwYztfNkcdb0jkDPfh9Cllcnh22Q_GCMMcuPeLSq1TAbTTE7Il3ByBSWSQ5WU9KmpYYChfD5pCnuB0c5ySCbxH9psR-CnausEO7hCYT4zhVQkH6HR7pvn4STp9z2j2CNJmu1JFngEDQxV7LPfx5wS_0dAy3z3_LdK0waMm1f3NlDbYGL3n9-55zkoIAy7D2yGJtGBZF38iUHuXxVPUNqgMJtyqE1whchy5wECQdNZXkrQs99tLMDZsGYNsZP9_ro1hjISNr-Dc4MuwegB6BU1GsCwExQUgAMURGJqea9IqbF9yPN9ipRyComugieVpVkfVsULiTfkxCn-DhnpwInXdyBUpfbOMfY7A5Dvq0j-PHBwxYgfQozal2Nyr6Z_yxShJtzBgvtoRm7XGMcPrqGVAK9Uql-nTRtefCBQXGXeU46HzUppck3M1h0DgsgVD03HTf7aoclpQ-FB6nYBGzL6-pM_HcCzxHkrc3qKsHvsvCu7sWRErl_GIqg7_tsZ5E8IPx7yVtGzqy7OXvwLlMJsFiHV1zIqHU2EQTYkL5RTgcegkh5XR5nOZ4D67-wIxITi77jfiu9UdO5iVhwxEqbvMTTsM1Wu0m7bHsM9JOT5NRzWEdnxrElXicKVB9P2xP_k8aI3-s-D28xjTQcjkngCgFfhh=w531-h708-no?.jpg

 

 

All the pics here:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/exO8qE0a76U3mrLI3

 

 

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Although I don't have a boxer cup (mine are 1150RT and R1200RTW) I have fitted this style of LED with success to both models. They just seem simpler:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rover-Headlight-9600LM-4800LM-Bright/dp/B01I4MROB8

 

AndyS,

 

Those static heat sink/cooling braids are much simpler. I was concerned about heat dispersal while confined behind the cover and shell with no air circulation inside. If they were exposed to outside air flow (like installed in a car), I'd be more comfortable with it. But then, what happens when the fan fails??

 

Please let us know how these work for you, bulb life and heat dissipation.

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Hi Lowndes, I have used those braided ones for well over a year on my 1150 and they have performed admirably. Now I have 3 of them in my 1200 and so far i'm very impressed.

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Hi Lowndes, I have used those braided ones for well over a year on my 1150 and they have performed admirably. Now I have 3 of them in my 1200 and so far i'm very impressed.

 

Andy, are your braids on the 1200 under the cap or through it? I've read posts about it done both ways, but no mention of the results. My preference would be tucked inside, but I wonder if there is adequate heat dissipation.

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The lights arrived today and I got them installed. These are incredible! Thanks for answering all of my questions :wave:

Edited by Utard
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Hi Lowndes, I have used those braided ones for well over a year on my 1150 and they have performed admirably. Now I have 3 of them in my 1200 and so far i'm very impressed.

 

Andy, are your braids on the 1200 under the cap or through it? I've read posts about it done both ways, but no mention of the results. My preference would be tucked inside, but I wonder if there is adequate heat dissipation.

 

The braids on the 1200 and the 1150 are under their respective caps. I have been using the 1150 a LONG time at night with no fold-back in performance. I can't comment yet on the 1200RTW because I have only recently installed them, but I am pretty confident.

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The braids on the 1200 and the 1150 are under their respective caps. I have been using the 1150 a LONG time at night with no fold-back in performance. I can't comment yet on the 1200RTW because I have only recently installed them, but I am pretty confident.

 

Sounds good. Thanks.

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