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New grips and stock grip heaters


cris nitro

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I am working on installing new grips on my 1200RT with the stock grip heaters. When I removed the stock grips, the wire loop at the end of the bar came loose from the plastic sub base. It did not break, just came loose. Any reason why I can't use super glue to lock the wiring into the sub base groove before I slid the new grips on?

 

Thanks.

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I am working on installing new grips on my 1200RT with the stock grip heaters. When I removed the stock grips, the wire loop at the end of the bar came loose from the plastic sub base. It did not break, just came loose. Any reason why I can't use super glue to lock the wiring into the sub base groove before I slid the new grips on?

 

Thanks.

 

Afternoons Cris

 

I suppose you could use about any glue type including super glue.

 

Super glue wouldn't be my (personal) first or even 2nd choice. I would probably use something non-metallic (like sewing thread) & wrap/tie the wires back in place then cover the thread & attaching area with Super Weather-strip Adhesive. That stuff is very tough when dried but remains just compliant enough to not put a sharp bending point in the wire to cause future breakage.

 

 

 

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Thanks DR. The wire is not broke, and fits very nicely into the grooves in the "sub base" I just need something to hold the looped end in place so it keeps the entire strand tight so it doesn't bunch up when putting on the new grips. Will the use of the Super Weather-strip adhesive affect the heat output at all? Thinking of one layer around the entire sub base to prevent the wires from getting buggered up when I put the new grips on.

 

Speaking of grips, I noticed that the left side grip "base" is off center where it nests into the "wonder wheel". Does anybody make a grip besides BMW that matches up with the wonder wheel? I just can't stand the slipperyness of the stock grips. I and don't like the thickness of grip wraps like puppies.

 

 

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Danny caddyshack Noonan

Cris,

Wouldn't be a bad idea to make sure that the one with the lifted wire still makes heat. My experience is that the amount of heat does not get impacted by thickness. The time to soak through, however, is another story. They can take a couple extra minutes to feel heat with something like puppies installed. That's why I went with baseball bat grip tape to increase the diameter a bit.

If you use a layer of adhesive to get the wire to lay down, you can probably use cellophane tape inside out (or saran wrap) to mold a thin smooth surface. Or, spend much money on buying aerospace teflon tape that will do the same thing.

Edited by Danny caddyshack Noonan
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Peter;

Thank you for your insight. I like the idea of cellophane tape, but shouldn't it go sticky side down?

And I wonder about using anything with glue (tape) and the mess it would make with the heat on. And I want the grips to not slide around, so not sure how well the saran wrap would hold.

Unfortunately, BMW chooses to go the high tech way and make sure you have to buy the complete assembly, and be damned with you if you don't like the stock grip compound/configuration.

Remember good ole 7/8" bars?, I do.

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Danny caddyshack Noonan

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I'm used to talking to manufacturing types and we speak the same language...sometimes without talking.

Use the tape or saran as a surface to make a fairly smooth, yet thin, cured adhesive area with the wire embedded. Then remove the tape or saran and install the new grips with minimal growth of the bar end. If the they stick, then it is stuck and has done its job and likely won't go anywhere and the grip adhesive should work equally well. You can test for adhesion removal before the actual article as well if you'd like to know beforehand. The new coated non-stick Reynolds foil might do the same job.

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Thanks for the further explanation. I get the idea.

What material would you think would be good for the "thin cured adhesive area"?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Project done. On the throttle side which had all of the wiring intact, I ground down the outside lip off the throttle tube, put grip glue on the throttle tube (mistake) and attempted to install the grip. What a pain! Got the grip about 1/3 on and seemed stuck. So for 10 minutes I pulled, tugged, rolled, walked the grip into place. Not perfect but better than having to cut it off and start over. Practically tore the skin off my right hand but I got it.

Ordered a second set of grips so I had a second throttle grip. This side (left) had the loose wiring. I pulled the wiring tight into it's groove and held the end tight with a piece of electrical tape. I then put a thin layer of super glue on the wring ensuring it got into the groove. I couldn't get the last wrap (loop) of wiring to stay down and this would have been disastrous if the end of the wiring would not stay down while I put the new grip on. So I put one layer of friction tape tightly around the end of the housing to hold the wiring in place. Then to avoid the problem I had with the grip glue, I went with my tried and true method spraying WD 40 on the inside of the grip. It fought me a little getting the grip started over the initial tape wrap, but then it rolled up onto the sub base 10 times easier than the side with grip glue. Very happy, let it sit over night and it is solid as a rock.

 

Yes, I tested the wiring to make sure it was working before the grip went on and it did. Damn that wire is hot! The only small problem I have is the new left grip does not fit into the "pocket" of the wonder wheel as the stock grip did, making the rocking motion of the wonder wheel a little compromised, but no big deal, I never use it anyway. If I get bored someday, I might do a little art work on it clears, but I doubt it. The stock BMW grips have a offset that fits into the pocket. Again, BMW has to be different, couldn't make it symmetrical.

 

New grips, way better than the stock ones. Project complete.

 

Thanks for all your help.

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