Well, since you've done the hard parts already, the bike is stripped, and the brake fluid can is opened, you might as well take a few more minutes and polish off that hydraulic clutch before you put it all back together.
You'll need a 10mmX1.0 SpeedBleeder or another 10mmX1.0 bleed screw from BMW or someplace else. The 1100's use 10mmX1.0's on the front calipers to help your dealer look it up for you. Leslie used a SB as they sent us the wrong sizes for the 1150 and we had two 10mm's left over. You'll also need all the same brake tools (except the Mini-Stan): fresh brake fluid, a 13mm wrench to hold the filler adapter while removing the grub screw, a (5mm?) hex wrench, T-handle or power bit to remove the grub screw and the appropriate sized wrench to install the SB (remember, they still use SAE measurements) or the BMW bleed screw (metric), small wire cutters, and a medium sized zip-tie. ACHTUNG! If you haven't done the brakes already I would read through the other two posts first as there is so much repetition I may abridge some steps here that are important, but similar enough to the other section as to not require restating.
Turn the bars so that the clutch fluid reservoir is level and secure the bars. Wrap reservoir with towels, remove the cover and rubber diaphragm clean and set aside.
Draw off the old fluid and clean out the reservoir. Top up the reservoir with fresh, clean fluid.
Clip the zip-tie on the clutch filler adapter.
Peel back the protective sheath and wrap towels around the filler adapter.
Remove the grub screw. The filler adapter has a ball check-valve (similar to the SpeedBleeder) which prevents rapid flow when the grub screw is removed. The pointed end on the SB or BleedScrew will push the ball into the adapter, allowing fluid to flow around it. BMW does NOT recommend that the bleed screw be left in place, but the grub screw re-inserted when the bleed is finished.
Replace the grub screw with the SpeedBleeder.
Connect the tubing and crack the SB 1/4-1/2 a turn.
Pump the clutch lever slowly and completely (observe the same technique and especially the cautions as the front control circuit!!!) keeping the blow-by hole covered. Remember: If you are using the BMW bleed screw you will need to close it with each pump before you stop compressing the handle. Since the reservoir and lever are on the left side and the filler adapter is on the right--this is a great example of how the SpeedBleeders help save time and contortions! :D>
When the fluid runs clean, top up the reservior to the fill line, replace and secure the cover and rubber diaphragm, remove the stock BMW BleedScrew and replace the grub screw (or just close and leave the SB in place if you're the "running with scissors" type!
Clean off the filler adapter well and replace the protective sheath. if using the SB, I recommend cleaning out the end of the SB with compressed air (be careful of splattering!) before replacing the dust cap. I failed to do this for some of my wheel circuits and it looked at first like the SB's were leaking. There can be a lot of fluid trapped in the SB above the check ball. They've all been holding up fine for another 5000 miles now with no seepage (even the SpeedBleeder in the clutch filler adapter).
Re-attach the filler adapter to the frame with the new zip-tie and your done!
Congratulations on a job well done!