1200RT cruise control not working

[dan cata]

2006 RT, the cruise control does nothing when pressing the button. 

The red LED works, I tried the k1200LT check sequence, the SET icon lights up when pressing the button and then ignition on, turns off when releasing, lock button left, but does not light when pushing the acceleration.

 

Now, I do not know if the sequence for k1200lt is the same as for the r1200rt, the switch in the cable distributor is audible and it appears to be working with the digital voltmeter, diode function. 

 

No errors on the GS911 diagnose... 

[dirtrider]

4 hours ago, dan cata said:

2006 RT, the cruise control does nothing when pressing the button. 

The red LED works, I tried the k1200LT check sequence, the SET icon lights up when pressing the button and then ignition on, turns off when releasing, lock button left, but does not light when pushing the acceleration.

 

Now, I do not know if the sequence for k1200lt is the same as for the r1200rt, the switch in the cable distributor is audible and it appears to be working with the digital voltmeter, diode function. 

 

No errors on the GS911 diagnose... 

Morning Dan

 

I have seen problems with the throttle switch (you seem to show yours working) 

 

The clutch switch for (cruise control) is another problem area (does yours pass this test?) 

 

Is the cruise control inner cable attached at the cruise control box? There is a flat ribbon inside the cruise control module that attaches to the metal cable. (I have seen those ribbons break).

 

Inside the cable splitter box is a stack of pulley's, the very outer one is the cruise control pulley, there is spring type clip that holds the pulley onto the axle. I have seen that retaining clip fall off. I'm not sure if the cruise control pulley can migrate off the main stack far enough to not engage the main pulley,  (it might be worth snapping the splitter box cover off then taking a look).

The actual switch that cancels the cruise control is operated by the inner (throttle cables) pulley so the switch would still work even if the outer cruise control pulley wasn't connected to the main stack.  

 

I have also found some issues in the off/on/resume switch assembly? 

 

Try the below test then tell us at what point it fails__

 

 

First)-  With the ignition switch OFF, switch on the cruise control.

 

Then)- Press and hold the SET button to the SET position, then turn on the Ignition switch (SET LIGHT should come on) 

 

Next)- Release the SET button (LIGHT THEN GOES OFF), move to RESET position (Resume) position (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON) 

 

Next)- Release the button (LIGHT SHOULD BE OFF) 

 

Next)- Switch OFF the cruise control switch (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON)

 

Next)- Switch the cruise control switch back to on (LIGHT SHOULD BE OFF) 

 

Next)- Close throttle (all the way past normal). (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON), release throttle. (LIGHT GOES OFF)

 

Next)- Pull clutch lever (LIGHT ON), release clutch lever (LIGHT OFF) 

 

Next)- Pull front brake lever (LIGHT ON), release lever (LIGHT OFF) 

 

Next)- Push foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON), hold for 5 seconds (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF), release foot brake pedal (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON)

 

Next)- Rotate rear wheel (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF/ON) 

 

Last)-  Switch off ignition. 

 

 

[dan cata]

Thank you.

The throttle switch seems to be working, indeed.

The clutch switch also appears to be working in the diagnose.

Opened the cruise control module and it appears clean, nothing burnt. Also the spring in the cable splitter box is seated.

 

In your sequence, the light does not seem to come on when forwarding the acceleration...

[dan cata]

One small detail I have found, the front and rear brake switches appear... switched on the diagnose, meaning when pressing the rear pedal, the front lever appears as actuated and viceversa. I think that is a diagnose bug, doubt it can come from the bike wrong...

 

Dan

[dirtrider]

37 minutes ago, dan cata said:

Thank you.

The throttle switch seems to be working, indeed.

The clutch switch also appears to be working in the diagnose.

Opened the cruise control module and it appears clean, nothing burnt. Also the spring in the cable splitter box is seated.

 

In your sequence, the light does not seem to come on when forwarding the acceleration...

Afternoon Dan

 

You have checked a lot of things.  

 

On the "In your sequence, the light does not seem to come on when forwarding the acceleration" is this when you roll the twist grip forward???? If so then either the switch in the splitter box is not working correctly. Or possibly the throttle cables are adjusted to tight or too loose keeping the switch from working correctly. Or something wrong in that circuit. 

 

If the switch in the splitter box is actually working correctly (good continuity & the switch button is moving in with twist grip rolled forward), & the light still doesn't go on when you roll the twist grip forward,  then THAT is going to be difficult to find out what is actually causing it.

 

It can take a pretty hard forward twist grip turn to get some to cancel the cruise using the twist grip roll forward method. 

 

Is the speedometer working correctly?  

[dirtrider]

26 minutes ago, dan cata said:

One small detail I have found, the front and rear brake switches appear... switched on the diagnose, meaning when pressing the rear pedal, the front lever appears as actuated and viceversa. I think that is a diagnose bug, doubt it can come from the bike wrong...

 

Dan

Dan,

 

I presume the brake system on that 2006 is the old I-ABS (servo wizzy system?)

 

As long a both brake switch's are closed with no hand or foot pressure then it shouldn't matter. It might matter at brake apply but with both switches closed it shouldn't be able to tell what end of the motorcycle the switch is mounted on.

 

If you want to verify then___

 

Front switch = pin 19 & pin 15 at the ZFE module

Rear switch =  pin 14 & pin 18 at the ZFE module

 

 

[dan cata]

On 5/17/2024 at 6:32 PM, dirtrider said:

Afternoon Dan

 

You have checked a lot of things.  

 

On the "In your sequence, the light does not seem to come on when forwarding the acceleration" is this when you roll the twist grip forward???? If so then either the switch in the splitter box is not working correctly. Or possibly the throttle cables are adjusted to tight or too loose keeping the switch from working correctly. Or something wrong in that circuit. 

 

If the switch in the splitter box is actually working correctly (good continuity & the switch button is moving in with twist grip rolled forward), & the light still doesn't go on when you roll the twist grip forward,  then THAT is going to be difficult to find out what is actually causing it.

 

It can take a pretty hard forward twist grip turn to get some to cancel the cruise using the twist grip roll forward method. 

 

Is the speedometer working correctly?  

I would say that the switch in the box is working correctly, I hooked the DVM to it's terminals and I can push the throttle in front/roll the twist grip forward and see the state change. 

That would  rule out the switch and or the cables, right? 

The speedometer is working fine, the speed is working in the dash, the rear sensor is responsible for the dash speed, as I remember. 

 

Dan

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, dan cata said:

I would say that the switch in the box is working correctly, I hooked the DVM to it's terminals and I can push the throttle in front/roll the twist grip forward and see the state change. 

That would  rule out the switch and or the cables, right? 

The speedometer is working fine, the speed is working in the dash, the rear sensor is responsible for the dash speed, as I remember. 

 

Dan

Morning Dan

 

Do any of these later tests work?

 

Next)- Pull clutch lever (LIGHT ON), release clutch lever (LIGHT OFF)   

 

Next)- Pull front brake lever (LIGHT ON), release lever (LIGHT OFF) 

 

Next)- Push foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON), hold for 5 seconds (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF), release foot brake pedal (LIGHT SHOULD BE ON)

 

Next)- Rotate rear wheel (LIGHT SHOULD GO OFF/ON) 

 

 

[dan cata]

Hello,

 

None of the remaining tests trigger the SET light in the dash, after the acceleration forward test...

 

Dan

[dirtrider]

1 hour ago, dan cata said:

Hello,

 

None of the remaining tests trigger the SET light in the dash, after the acceleration forward test...

 

Dan

Morning Dan

 

Try lightly pushing the clutch lever forward (and hold it there) then see if it will go farther than the "acceleration forward test".

 

 

[dan cata]

It did not help, I am afraid... I did test what you suggested, the clutch switch is working as expected, I can see it change values on gs911 and also it does not allow the engine to spin when the lever is not pulled in and it does spin when it is pulled in.

 

Dan

[dirtrider]

12 hours ago, dan cata said:

It did not help, I am afraid... I did test what you suggested, the clutch switch is working as expected, I can see it change values on gs911 and also it does not allow the engine to spin when the lever is not pulled in and it does spin when it is pulled in.

 

Dan

Afternoon Dan

 

The clutch switch you see on the GS-911 is the clutch activated "start inhibit switch". There is usually a separate (independent) cruise control clutch switch  (piggyback clutch switches) I don't believe that one is readable on the GS-911 on your early 1200RT. You might have to manually test that one. 

 

 

[dan cata]

Are you referring to 61317690700 ? I see that the clutch switch is a double one for the cruise control bikes and I can only hear one click when pulling the clutch lever on mine. 

That might be the cause, I am ordering a new one and come back with results. Do you think it can also alter the acceleration forward test, since you directly pointed me to the clutch switch checking?

 

Edited June 5 by dan cata
added details

[dirtrider]

Quote

Do you think it can also alter the acceleration forward test, since you directly pointed me to the clutch switch checking?

Morning Dan

 

It is basically the next thing in the operational sequence that needs to be verified for proper operation. If it is bad then it needs to be adjusted, repaired, or replaced.  If it is good then we need to move on to the next thing to verify.

 

 

[dan cata]

Ordered one, parts get to me in 5 working days. Even if I swap it, not sure on what to do with the acceleration forward test... 

I guess I will see after getting the clutch switch. 

 

Dan 

[dan cata]

That was the problem, the clutch switch. Fitted a new one and the cruise control is working as expected.

 

Thanks, @dirtrider!!!

Dan

[dirtrider]

39 minutes ago, dan cata said:

That was the problem, the clutch switch. Fitted a new one and the cruise control is working as expected.

 

Thanks, @dirtrider!!!

Dan

Morning Dan

 

We like to hear the follow up especially if it is a successful one. 

 

It would have a saved a lot of work if BMW would have included that cruise control clutch lever switch operation in the system data output.