Unluckiest.Bike.Ever plus ignition lock question

[2015 Blue RT]

No news from the dealer, but while bike shopping online, I see the pretty blue 2016 nearby in Jacksonville w/ 17k miles is now marked down $1k to $8,500:

https://motohunt.com/l/8619076/2016-BMW-R-1200-RT-Premium-San-Marino-Blue-Metallic-Granite-Grey-Metallic

 

That's about what I paid for mine in 2021 w/ 88k miles.

[Krid]

That sounds like an attractive deal, and if you look, there will probably be more like it! You might end up doing a "fly and ride" also if you find a better deal.

[2015 Blue RT]

3 minutes ago, Krid said:

That sounds like an attractive deal, and if you look, there will probably be more like it! You might end up doing a "fly and ride" also if you find a better deal.

I don't fly due to the TSA and not having a tag. I use uship instead. The Jacksonville bike would be ideal if it didn't have the keyless ride option, but I can live with that if need be. Seems atypical for a large $1K price cut from a dealer, so I have to wonder if there may be something else with it or some hidden fees?

[2015 Blue RT]

I suppose some here know about this site, but I just found it. You put in your VIN, and it tells you the options & other info on the bike:

https://www.mdecoder.com

 

I can use this to see if a prospect has keyless ride since the pics don't always show that.

[Krid]

the the resolution of yourI think you will find that probably 90-95% of the US 1200/1250 RT's were sent over loaded so you might have a hard time finding a base RT with a keyed ignition, I'm not saying they're not out there but it's kinda like finding a Unicorn! Keep your eyes peeled and good luck in your search and with the resolution of your Insurance claim.

[2015 Blue RT]

12 hours ago, Krid said:

the the resolution of yourI think you will find that probably 90-95% of the US 1200/1250 RT's were sent over loaded so you might have a hard time finding a base RT with a keyed ignition, I'm not saying they're not out there but it's kinda like finding a Unicorn! Keep your eyes peeled and good luck in your search and with the resolution of your Insurance claim.

That's what I'm finding out. Possible options if a replacement is the outcome:

1. 2014, keyless was not an option, but neither was San Marino blue. I've repainted once, could do it again. Side note, when the service dude ran my VIN, he asked ebony to confirm the color, and I said it used to be. 

2. 2015 blue w/ keyless. It may be easier to spend the $800 for the used parts and convert vs repaint.

3. 2015~18 blue w/o keyless- the unicorn.

 

I got the options for my bike, then the 2016 in Jacksonville, and then another blue 2015 (miles unlisted) in Iowa for $6,499. I put the options into a spreadsheet and then adjusted them so each bike's options were level with the others. I'll try to screencap the spreadsheet in that area and also the option packages.

The Iowa bike seems to have everything except the lowered seat.

 

EDIT- I found a quasi-unicorn one-owner gray 2015 w/ 28K miles and no keyless for $7,500 on CL in Wisconsin. Transport costs would price it similar to the semi-local blue 2016:

https://greenbay.craigslist.org/mcy/d/black-creek-2015-bmw-r1200rt/7774487917.html

 

I'd like gray better than black/maroon.

 

EDIT 2- I've been reading this morning about BMW programming software (ISTA) and the interface (ICOM Next). The SW appears to be a free albeit large (100GB) download, while the interface runs around $120 shipped from China or $200 on eBay. AFAIK, this would allow me to program modules using the 10 pin to OBD cable I use for service reset via the Motoscan app. It looks like I could use the "retrofit" function with new/used hardware to get rid of the keyless system. Still researching this.

[9Mary7]

19 hours ago, 2015 Blue RT said:

some hidden fees?

Florida is a "free fire zone" as far as dealer doc fees. I've been quoted between $800 and $1000  at Florida m/c dealers.........(killed both sales as I don't play those games).

[Dave_in_TX]

5 hours ago, 2015 Blue RT said:

That's what I'm finding out. Possible options if a replacement is the outcome:

1. 2014, keyless was not an option, but neither was San Marino blue. I've repainted once, could do it again. Side note, when the service dude ran my VIN, he asked ebony to confirm the color, and I said it used to be. 

2. 2015 blue w/ keyless. It may be easier to spend the $800 for the used parts and convert vs repaint.

3. 2015~18 blue w/o keyless- the unicorn.

 

I got the options for my bike, then the 2016 in Jacksonville, and then another blue 2015 (miles unlisted) in Iowa for $6,499. I put the options into a spreadsheet and then adjusted them so each bike's options were level with the others. I'll try to screencap the spreadsheet in that area and also the option packages.

The Iowa bike seems to have everything except the lowered seat.

EDIT- I found a quasi-unicorn one-owner gray 2015 w/ 28K miles and no keyless for $7,500 on CL in Wisconsin. Transport costs would price it similar to the semi-local blue 2016:

https://greenbay.craigslist.org/mcy/d/black-creek-2015-bmw-r1200rt/7774487917.html

 

I'd like gray better than black/maroon.

 

EDIT 2- I've been reading this morning about BMW programming software (ISTA) and the interface (ICOM Next). The SW appears to be a free albeit large (100GB) download, while the interface runs around $120 shipped from China or $200 on eBay. AFAIK, this would allow me to program modules using the 10 pin to OBD cable I use for service reset via the Motoscan app. It looks like I could use the "retrofit" function with new/used hardware to get rid of the keyless system. Still researching this.

While I'm not a fan of BMW's keyless system, I'm on my second GS with keyless ride because keyed is almost impossible to find and some desired options are only available combines with keyless. However, I had no problems with keyless in the 93k miles I owned my 2020 and have had no keyless related problems on my 2023 GS currently with 50k miles. Personally, I don't think its worth the cost to convert keyless to keyed.

[2015 Blue RT]

24 minutes ago, 9Mary7 said:

Florida is a "free fire zone" as far as dealer doc fees. I've been quoted between $800 and $1000  at Florida m/c dealers.........(killed both sales as I don't play those games).

Ditto! Along the same lines, Our current SUV came from a suckola used dealer in mid-Georgia. As with the Challenger below, I was looking for a certain color and powertrain. It was hard to find, so I figured on paying more. 1st red flag was "call for price", should have walked away due to that alone. Got there, and 30K more miles than advertised. We were paying cash, and the salesman wanted our SSNs. Tried to pull some BS line about it being a homeland security requirement. I lost my cool with him and they backed down. I wrote a complaint to the GA secretary of state over this- nothing was ever done- but these folks keep perpetuating the stereotype for used car salesmen.

 

I bought a then-new 2009 Challenger R/T in Crestview since they had it 90% of the way I wanted it. Dodge dealer in Tallahassee wanted $5K fee on top of MSRP. The sales people blew me off initially, so I went to the dark side (Ford) near Pensacola and looked at a same-year Mustang convertible. Lots of issues- none of which were the salesman's fault, kind of felt bad for him. Wife talked me in to going back to Crestview. All went well until I tried to negotiate an actual spare tire vs the supplied inflator. They nearly lost a $35K sale over a $150 spare tire and jack. I bought the car, and then got the spare and jack from a junkyard.

 

Long before that, I bought a then-new 1997 Trans Am. The salesman played games by trying to hide my trade in when I was walking out after rejecting their offer. I love motor vehicles. Dealers, not so much.

 

Out of all of the vehicles I've bought via a salesman over the last 20 years, I can say I've had one really good salesman- a fellow outside of Atlanta GA circa 2018. I'll nearly always look at a private sale like I did for the current 1200RT.

[2015 Blue RT]

3 minutes ago, Dave_in_TX said:

While I'm not a fan of BMW's keyless system, I'm on my second GS with keyless ride because keyed is almost impossible to find and some desired options are only available combines with keyless. However, I had no problems with keyless in the 93k miles I owned my 2020 and have had no keyless related problems on my 2023 GS currently with 50k miles. Personally, I don't think its worth the cost to convert keyless to keyed.

I've had intermittent dash lights on mine even after replacing the battery. It comes & goes- I can go weeks at a time. The second factor was the gas cap jamming a couple of months ago. Couple that with the ability to ride off after unknowingly dropping it and then being stranded. I'm wired logically myself, and if a function does not make sense to me, I like to get rid of it.

 

I like to tinker with things and like the idea of using the ISTA SW to reprogram functions. I'm working on a well-used late model Dodge SUV now and got some similar SW for it that has already paid for itself by allowing me to program new "keys" for it. Like the BMW, it's a keyless system. Unlike the bike, there's no keyed option I can find. Dodge has similar genius via a "capless" fuel fill. Stupid idea. It wasn't broken, so why "fix" it? I can see now why they're losing so much money and having trouble stating afloat.

[Dave_in_TX]

1 hour ago, 2015 Blue RT said:

 Couple that with the ability to ride off after unknowingly dropping it and then being stranded. I'm wired logically myself, and if a function does not make sense to me, I like to get rid of it.

 

Carry the plastic emergency spare key in a pocket or hide it somewhere on bike.

[2015 Blue RT]

4 hours ago, Dave_in_TX said:

Carry the plastic emergency spare key in a pocket or hide it somewhere on bike.

I never got one of those when I bought the bike, plus the spare key that is supposed to pop out of the fob is broken off.

[Dave_in_TX]

29 minutes ago, 2015 Blue RT said:

I never got one of those when I bought the bike, plus the spare key that is supposed to pop out of the fob is broken off.

Replacing those would be much cheaper than converting to keyed. The pop out key is available as a separate part.

[2015 Blue RT]

Browsing eBay, I see another option- I could buy the used blue Tupperware panels probably for less than the cost of the keyed ignition parts. With that, I could get a bike with keyed ignition and simply replace the panels. Would need to take most of them off anyway since if I go this route I'm going to put another set of LED headlight bulbs in. I also found a far less costly set of keyed parts in the UK. Shipping is really reasonable. I hope to know something on my bike's status as soon as Tuesday afternoon.

 

I made another post here after reading the wiring diagrams on my Haynes manual subscriptions. I think they are incorrect, which doesn't help trying to figure out how to wire in a keyed switch on a keyless bike. Used to be the shop manuals were hardly ever wrong. Now it seems almost routine. On the Dodge truck engine I'm rebuilding, the manual called for a far too high torque spec on a 6mm thread bolt. I used a lower setting and still snapped the bolt off.

[2015 Blue RT]

Dealer estimate is over 7600. Waiting on adjuster now, they need other 3 damaged vehicles estimates to proceed. Crunching numbers I'd say it's totaled.  

 

The service manager gave me a long list of stuff they needed to replace. Off the top of my head it was inner & outer fairing panels, something to do with the wheels, the muffler, the valve cover, and some other stuff.

 

The adjuster left me a voice mail to expect a call from the other lady with Progressive here in FL.

 

I was reading on another site that to determine if it is totaled, you take market value, then add cost of repairs to the scrap value. If the total exceeds the market value, then the bike is totaled. I used JD Power & KBB to get an estimated market value, but no idea what a scrap value is. Having two knowns though means that so long as the scrap value is above maybe $1K coupled with the repair estimate it will be totaled.

 

Once I get an idea of what they're going to pay, I can narrow down my list of replacements.

[92Merc]

I'd recommend you use SearchTempest.com as well.  You can specify R1200RT or R1250RT.  It'll look on Craigslist and FB Marketplace.  Breaks it down into regions.

[2015 Blue RT]

LOL I've been there, have FB blocked by choice. Most of those owner listings are overpriced IMO, higher than some dealers. Have also tried theparking-motorcycle.com and a few others. I'm looking at the 2014 a member here has FS. If I can get a settlement check fast enough that may work.

 

I may poll the brain trust here as to if a well maintained 2018 with 120k would be better than a 2015 with lower miles.

[wbw6cos]

Have you tried the MOA Marketplace?

 

 

 

 

$12,595 or best offer.

 

 

 

 

[2015 Blue RT]

4 minutes ago, wbw6cos said:

Have you tried the MOA Marketplace?

 

 

 

 

$12,595 or best offer.

 

 

 

 

No I haven't, but I think that one is the one in the Craigslist finds here. Great bike, but way beyond any settlement I'll get.

[wbw6cos]

Ok.  It is in Oak Ridge, NC.    Plus, the mileage is not listed.   Offer 10k.  

[2015 Blue RT]

For another $2K, I like this one:

https://marketplace.bmwmoa.org/classified/2021-r1250rt-for-sale-14250-listing-33350.aspx       I like the all-blue paint scheme of the 1250 vs the blue-silver of the 1200.

[wbw6cos]

Another one with no mileage?   WTH, I guess it is a rule or something.  

[2015 Blue RT]

Was this color offered in 2014?

https://marketplace.bmwmoa.org/classified/2014-r1200rt-listing-32943.aspx

 

One owner, never been down or dropped. fully loaded R1200RT. Baritz blue metallic. 86,867 original miles. Recent service, new battery, Michelin Road 6 tires. Garmin BMW Nav VI . I love this bike runs perfect. Sadly I had a failed back surgery in Aug of 2023. I am unable to walk or ride. Need to find a good home so this bike will be happy. I've done lots of road trips and it never failed me.
Asking 6,500$ OBO Sadly lost my job as well do to this surgery so I am surviving on social security so I could use the money to pay bills.

[wbw6cos]

Not sure, but Motorcyclespecs.co.za lists the color Quartz Blue Metallic.  

 

That price looks promising, eh?

[2015 Blue RT]

I looked up the color he had listed, and I like it. I figure either the bike was repainted or it's an older model than 2014. I sent the seller an email. It was posted in July, so it may no longer be available. I'm familiar with the QBM color, one of our members here has a 2014 for sale but he has to sell it by 9/14. At the rate the insurance company is going I'll be lucky to see anything by the end of the month.

 

EDIT- I texted the seller, it's still for sale, and it's QBM, not Biarritz.

[Rougarou]

42 minutes ago, wbw6cos said:

Ok.  It is in Oak Ridge, NC.    Plus, the mileage is not listed.   Offer 10k.  

 

Mileage is 20k

 

 

 

[wbw6cos]

DOH!      I guess that is why he did not type it in the listing.

 

I just saw the key, which was the key feature he was looking for.   Pun intended.

[2015 Blue RT]

2 hours ago, Rougarou said:

 

Mileage is 20k

 

 

 

$12,500 with 20K and keys, or

https://www.adamecharley.com/Pre-owned-Inventory-2016-BMW-Motorcycle-Scooter-R-1200-RT-Premium-San-Marino-Blue-Metallic-Granite-Grey-Metallic-Regency-16039627?ref=list&utm_source=motohunt.com

$8,500 with 17K and keyless. I could convert to keys for at most $800, plus that one is only 130 miles away. This has to be the best value low miles bike I've seen.

[2015 Blue RT]

I called Progressive yesterday and today. Today I was told it's pending a total loss write off. It's also pending a property damage limit authorization. No ETA as yet, at some point there will be a local meeting and the value determined. If I'm in agreement I sign over the title. 

 

I got a text a few minutes ago that the person is getting with their supervisor and will reach out to me. 

[Rougarou]

Hmmm, wonder what the buy back is on that

[2015 Blue RT]

Latest update- Progressive is waiting for damage estimates for 2 of the other 3 vehicles. I spoke to the other owners and it looks like one has been completed and the other may have. Should know more tomorrow. I heard the phrase total loss authorization as well as property limit authorization. I was told there'd be a local conference where the market value for my bike would be determined and then I'd have to sign the title & odometer form and then get a check. That's the $64 question- if they don't give me enough for a similar bike ($8,500 for the Jacksonville 2016), then I won't accept their offer & likely have to file suit.

 

They also denied my request for reimbursement for time lost from work and fuel to transport (under $300). Unless the bike's compensation is enough to cover this and a replacement, I'll write to the at-fault driver and seek that directly. If refused, I'll plan to file suit for those damages and court costs. I still don't have the crash report- the city officer dropped it off today & when I looked at it the date was wrong. I then realized he'd given us the wrong report. Try again tomorrow.

[Hosstage]

1-800-ASK-GARY ...

[2015 Blue RT]

20 hours ago, Hosstage said:

1-800-ASK-GARY ...

Unfortunately doesn't cover my area of FL.

[2015 Blue RT]

What's wrong with this picture (actually no pictures), a 2020 white R1250RT w/44K miles for $9,999 at a Colorado dealer?

https://www.acesmotorcyclesdenver.com/Pre-Owned-Inventory-2020-BMW-20RT-Littleton-Colorado-16111915?utm_source=www.cycletrader.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=dealer-click&utm_content=view-website-link

 

It's listed as a "20RT", so I ran the VIN and confirmed it's a 2020 1250RT.

 

EDIT- Here's another 2020 w/ 52K miles for $7,995 at another dealer. Was this like a bad year for these?

https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2020-BMW-R+1250+RT+Manhattan+Metallic-5032383619#sid=412497

[wbw6cos]

Contact them and ask for photos to see how they respond.   It does seem to be a little too good to be true.  

 

They have a '17 model with the same price.   Sup wit dat?

[2015 Blue RT]

I read some posts elsewhere regarding the 20 vs 21, and nearly all of the replies said buy the 21. I didn't know the 19 and 20 still had the 1200 style dash. I even saw a video of a 20 with keyed ignition 🙂.

[2015 Blue RT]

I texted the Colorado dealer, no reply as yet. Looks like the main difference between a 2015/16 and a 2020 is the larger displacement engine. If I miss out on the 2014 FS on our forum, then I'll have to consider other models. The 2016 Blue in Jacksonville is $8,500 w/ 17K. No shipping costs and could offer less per their site. Dealer fees? The above 2020 in AZ is $8K w/52K. Not a fan of the color. Shipping would likely add $1K and I'm sure there are hidden dealer fees for that low price. There's also a 2015 blue in Iowa for $6500, unlisted miles but when I ran the VIN for options it had everything.

 

I also texted the insurance company w/ no reply as yet. I may see if "Ask Gary" knows any lawyers up this way that take property damage cases. Monday makes 2 weeks since the crash.

[JCtx]

As a previous '14 R1200RT owner, and current '20 R1250R owner, the latter engine is immensely better IMO, even though it's only 50cc or so larger. The major difference is SMOOTHNESS, but it also feels significantly more powerful, although that might have to do with my new bike being lighter. But with the shift-cam, it feels torquier down low, and more powerful on top. And it feels smooth even at 2K rpm, where the 1200 needed 3,500+. But try to ride both, so you can form your own opinion. Best of luck.

[duckhawk64]

Ditto to JCtx. I had a 14 1200rt and then bought a 19 1250RT. I agree 100 % with his post. Much smoother. 

[2015 Blue RT]

Maybe (likely not) next week sometime I can get an idea of how much they're going to give me. If the 2020 is close to the cost of another 2015, I'll give it a try.

EDIT- I ran values again today and here's what I got:

Source    Value    Comment
KBB trade in    $8,560    
KBB typical lising price    $11,935    
JDP low retail    $7,342    With options
JDP average retail    $9,727    With options
Average all    $9,391    
Average KBB    $10,248    
Average JDP    $8,535    
 

I think the ""average all" is fairly close to replacement bike costs when I look at the market.

[2015 Blue RT]

On 9/6/2024 at 8:38 PM, 2015 Blue RT said:

EDIT- Here's another 2020 w/ 52K miles for $7,995 at another dealer. Was this like a bad year for these?

https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2020-BMW-R+1250+RT+Manhattan+Metallic-5032383619#sid=412497

I got a prelim quote on uship and it's under $800 to transport that one here- makes sense since it's basically a straight shot across I-10 from AZ to FL. I texted the dealer to see if there are any add-on fees. If not and I get a decent settlement, this one is definitely a possibility. Not a fan of the color or keyless ride, but it's certainly the best deal on a 1250 right now.

 

EDIT- Decoded the VIN for options, looks like it's loaded-

Other equipment
X0143    Bluetooth interface
X0182    DTC
X0191    Dynamic ESA
X0193    Keyless Ride
X0219    Deluxe headlight
X0222    Gearshift assistant Pro
X0224    Driving modes Pro
X0230    Comfort Package
X0233    Touring package
X0238    Dynamic package 1
X0270    Audio system US
X0272    Preparation, navigation unit
X0350    Exhaust system, chrome
X0376    BMW US Radio
X0417    Central locking system
X0455    Style Elegance
X0518    Seat heating
X0519    Heated handlebar grips
X0530    RDC
X0538    Cruise control
X0562    Additional headlight
X05AB    Country-specific brake light
X05AC    ABS pro
X0603    Alarm system
X0764    Plug-in socket

Available Upgrades
-    Vgate iCar Pro OBD for Bimmercode
-    Highest quality Bluetooth 5.0 Audio Receiver with AptX HD support

[2015 Blue RT]

Today's update is that they're still waiting for two estimates for the other vehicles.

 

In the meantime, I found a 2021 keyed unicorn w/94k miles for $10,799:

https://motohunt.com/l/8528595/used-2021-BMW-R-1250-RT

Probably beyond settlement range, but interesting to see a keyed ignition.

[2015 Blue RT]

I did some more reading, and Florida law is fairly explicit when it comes to claim settlements for totaled vehicles. This relates to first-party claims. AFAIK, my claim is a third-party one. I didn't see much relevant info on that scenario, but it seems like the process should be similar.

The insurer may elect a cash settlement based upon the actual cost to purchase a comparable motor vehicle, including sales tax. Costs can be derived from:

1. When comparable motor vehicles are available in the local market area, the cost of two or more such comparable motor vehicles available within the preceding 90 days;

2. The retail cost as determined from a generally recognized used motor vehicle industry source such as:
a. An electronic database...

b. A guidebook that is generally available to the general public...

3. The retail cost using two or more quotations obtained by the insurer from two or more licensed dealers in the local market area.

 

Seeing as how there are no dealers and no 2014+ RTs for sale in my local area, a couple of those are out. That leaves the "electronic database" and "guidebook". I'm thinking these are KBB, JD Powers etc. It's good the law specifies retail cost. If I get KBB retail, then I'm looking at $11,935. If they use JDP, I get $9,727. Unknown factors are the high miles on my bike and as referenced my being a third-party claimant. Due to the limited availability of the RT, it may not be possible to obtain a bike in similar condition to mine. The 2018 below in PA is the closest for miles.

 

That being said, I'd like some input on available choices. When I joined here, I was talked out of an older RS into an RT, and then specifically the wethead. Great advice, so I'm looking for some more.

Here's what I see as being available and likely within my settlement range in no order. I'll comment on some positives and negatives as applicable.

1. Blue 2015 in Jacksonville 17k miles, $8,500. Has similar options as my bike, including keyless. Pretty bike, low miles, and it's within riding home distance.

2. Quartz Blue Metallic 2014 for sale on this site, 92k miles, $4995 obo + $800 shipping. It's keyed, and has a good service history. The color while better than Manhattan Metallic is still not appealing to me. Low price means I could easily afford to repaint it. If I get a low settlement, this may be the sole choice. Also, it's due to be gone by 9/14 (5 days from now), so realistically I can't get paid and pay for it by then.

3. (1250) Manhattan Metallic 2020 in Arizona w/ 52k miles, $8,000 + $700 shipping. VIN shows lots of options. Only really affordable 1250. Would really need to be repainted.

4. (1250) White 2021 in PA w/ 94k miles & keyed ignition, $10,800 + 800 shipping (I'm presuming I could get this for under $10k). While this would be the newest one, I'm not sure I like the new display, and I couldn't use my 8" tablet with it.

5. Blue 2015 in Iowa w/ unk miles, $6,500 + $800 shipping. VIN shows fully loaded. Presuming the miles are not north of 100k, probably the best value in a blue 1200.

6. Black 2018 in PA w/ 122k miles $6,600 + $800 shipping. Dealer says it's in really good shape and well maintained. Did not check for options, but it has keyless.

 

It appears the 1250 is the better of the two bikes, so using that line of thinking the Arizona bike is the best choice. The least hassle would be the blue one in Jacksonville. The best value is the 2014, but as noted I don't think I can get money in time for it.

[JCtx]

I wouldn't go over 50K miles, unless you have extra budget for everything that starts going wrong, including suspension components. So #3 seems like the best choice by far IMO, given you don't care a lot about high miles. But even at 50K miles, the bike might need new shocks, if not already replaced (or refurbished). Or some other repairs, but since I don't keep my bikes for nearly that long, I'm not familiar with possible maintenance items. Oh, and I wouldn't repaint it, but that's just me. I'd only consider #1 after that, due to its low mileage, but once you ride a 1250, I suspect you wouldn't go back to a 1200. Finally, until you have money on hand to make a purchase, you may be wasting your time, but at least you can get an idea what mileage limits might be important to consider, to buy a reliable bike. Best of luck.

[Skywagon]

2015 BlueRT....

 

You are going to get many opinions on which one to buy.  Only you can decide what is in your affordability index and style vs all of our views.  My last 3 bikes have been new.  I probably won't do that again as I'm a bit hesitant on all the technology now until it has been out 2-3 years.  

 

I can remember one of my earliest bikes.  Everybody told me in 1964 ( I think) to buy a Honda step through 50.....but no...I bought this gem with my paper route money.  It was more cc's/per dollar and heck if Sears was behind it...what could possibly go wrong.  It took me a sheep pot full of newspaper deliveries to pay pops back, but it may have been the most fun I've ever had on 2 wheels.

 

Pick what works for you financially and style wise.  Best of luck. 60cc's and 3 gears of pure terror....not to mention a horn from a bicycle.

[Krid]

Ah, what the hell, get an FJR1300, spend less, bulletproof and a pretty good scoot!

[2015 Blue RT]

6 hours ago, Skywagon said:

2015 BlueRT....

 

You are going to get many opinions on which one to buy.  Only you can decide what is in your affordability index and style vs all of our views.  My last 3 bikes have been new.  I probably won't do that again as I'm a bit hesitant on all the technology now until it has been out 2-3 years.  

 

Pick what works for you financially and style wise.

 

All good points. My wife asked why I cared what others think, and I told her this forum unlike others I belong to for my other vehicles was mature and helpful. I lack knowledge about BMWs, and there is plenty to be found here.

 

I think the selection order will be the 2020 in AZ, then the 2016 here in FL if the first one doesn't work out. This presumes I can't make the cutoff for the 2014. I sure hope they decide this week.

I PM'd a member whose 2016 was totaled a couple years ago and he got paid about 10 days after the adjuster looked at it. My situation is complicated due to so many vehicles being involved.

[9Mary7]

1 hour ago, 2015 Blue RT said:

this forum.........was mature and helpful

Totally agree on the helpful....... mature?? jury's still out I'm afraid. 

 

Edit: This is easily the most helpful and active (riding) forum I've ever seen.

[Bernie]

I would not buy a 2014-2018 WetHead regardless of the mileage. I believe you are better off to buy a 1250 motor, even if you have to endure the keyless ignition and gas cap. I haven’t had a single problem with either in over 120,000 miles. But I have had problems with camshaft’s and valve followers. Which are lot more expensive to replace. Also it is a well known fact that 2014-16 have alternator failures just waiting to happen, a $3,500.00+ expense. And you can’t bypass that or southern engineer it. 
Just my opinion, if money is really that tight buy a smaller bike, like a Honda 700NC. 

[ChuckA10]

On 8/27/2024 at 9:27 AM, Joe Frickin' Friday said:

 

FWIW, whenever I park in a parking lot space like that, I always park close to the open end of the space for exactly the reason you stated: I don't want someone thinking they see an empty space and pulling in before they make eye contact with my bike.  

 

Also, I concur with others here.  Let the Mustang owner's insurance cover the cost of getting it to/from the dealer for a formal inspection, and let the dealer check it out from top to bottom so they can give you a detailed list of parts and labor required to restore it.  For a 9YO bike with 123K miles on it, there's a very good chance it'll be totaled, and then you can just take the check and go buy a similar replacement.

If they want to total, they will usually deal and you can keep it for a salvage amount that you negotiate and you can do what you want with it, but in that case you make sure they don’t do it as a total, in case you ever want to sell and pull a car fax.