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A long time ago....


Twisties

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.... we used to have a trailering forum.  Yeah, really.  Every few years it would even get a new post.  Now, no more.  I'm not really sure where to put this post, so I guess it goes here.  Yes, it's about trailering your BMW motorcycles.  Basically, I want to know if anyone knows of a good primer available on line that covers the do's and don'ts, as well as hear your thoughts on what went wrong.  Hopefully we all learn something. 

 

We've been trailering for years now, but have recently had two incidents.  In the latest a brand new set of straps almost failed.  They were rated 1000lbs working load, 3000 lbs break strength and were 1.5" wide with a good ratchet mechanism.  They seemed like overkill.  The bikes weigh about 600lbs and most of that weight is on the trailer floor.  

 

Our older straps were 1" and had built-in loops that we put around the forks above the triple tree.  These new straps didn't have built-in loops, so we strung them around the forks above the triple tree and back to the cleat on the trailer.  All seemed secure.  We also placed a second set of older ratchet straps on over them, for extra security.

 

The result, after 1600 miles, was as shown in the picture.  Three straps were like new and one was about to fail.  The tear was at/behind the fork/triple tree and could not be seen in a casual quick check.  All straps were checked at each stop.  I look and touch.  All straps had proper tension.  I'm fairly certain we did not over-tighten.  After the incident I checked for sharp or rough edges and did not find anything.

 

My analysis:  This is the first time we've ever looped the straps all the way back to the trailer cleats on the floor.  Every other time our straps had built-in loops, or we had used soft straps.  Also, it is a wider strap than we've had before.  I think it shouldn't have been looped like that and that we should have used our soft straps.  I've done some searching and what I've found reinforces my understanding that soft straps are mainly to keep the hardware away from the bike to prevent scratches.  But, I can't help but believe after this incident that stretching a wide strap around the curves of the fork and triple tree is a no no.  It would seem to me that the outer side of the strap would experience more stress than the inner side.  A soft strap is usually a bit narrower and built tougher.  Our soft straps are rated over 10,000 lbs. In any event, I suspect these straps should be used in straight line applications and soft straps should be used at the forks.  

 

 

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You’re correct, always use a loop strap to connect the long strap to. What happens is the bikes move around on the trailer enough to eventually wear the straps at the contact point, not good. 
 

If I’m going any distance I learned to tie down the rear suspension also (you can let the front suspension move some), it takes nearly all the sway and bounce out of the equation which is the enemy. It’s amazing all the bouncing around a bike gets on a long road trip, more straps isn’t the answer, 4 properly placed high quality ones will do the trick.

 

Strap angle is important too, 45 degrees is usually good, helps alleviate side to side and up and down movement. Again, don’t be tempted with straps from Harbor Freight or discount stores no matter what it says on the package, get expensive ones that work and last.

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Another thing, for a check after the straps are attached, give the bike a good shove in the seat area, if the bike doesn't move but the trailer wiggles you've got it. 

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John Ranalletta
43 minutes ago, roadscholar said:

Another thing, for a check after the straps are attached, give the bike a good shove in the seat area, if the bike doesn't move but the trailer wiggles you've got it. 

Used Condor (chock co.) straps for a long time and still use two to fasten rear.  At UNrally, I saw @MikeB60 using these and ordered a set.  I'm pleased.  Also, I used to use soft ties around the fork legs but saw Mike threading the soft ties thru frame holes and started doing that as well.  It seems to be more stable.

 

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From years of towing Porsche racecars all over the country I learned the value (a couple times the hard way) of tying down properly to keep them from moving. By their nature bikes have different characteristics but its not something to be casual about, I've seen a few fall off and it's not pretty, luckily none of mine. I used to tell people I did more damage to racecars loading and unloading them than ever on the racetrack : )

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1 hour ago, wbw6cos said:

Similar to the ones that John and Mike have, I use Rhino USA (I love the name.)  I got them for under $40

 

 

 

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I have a set like this on order, but 5200 lbs break rating.  Also about $40.  The name is cool, but they are made in China, I think.  

 

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2 hours ago, John Ranalletta said:

Used Condor (chock co.) straps for a long time and still use two to fasten rear.  At UNrally, I saw @MikeB60 using these and ordered a set.  I'm pleased.  Also, I used to use soft ties around the fork legs but saw Mike threading the soft ties thru frame holes and started doing that as well.  It seems to be more stable.

 

image.thumb.png.4c00f40daf2a6f703c426c022ad3f5d1.png

 

 

Thanks John.  I'll look for the frame holes.

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John Ranalletta
27 minutes ago, Twisties said:

Thanks John.  I'll look for the frame holes.

To clarify, mine's a '10 RT. I use a soft tie on the end of the strap to loop around the frame tube on each side.  It's an easy reach.

 

 

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Some great tips already given.
 

Personally I prefer Ancra type tie downs. I’ve had some incidents with the ratchet type. I always use soft ties and minimum of 4 tie downs at 4 corners. Cinch them up, throw a half hitch and tie the free ends down. Secure the front wheel to keep it from turning (if there is no front wheel chock) and you’re set. Check often. 👍
 

I’ve never heard anyone say “Man, I wish I wouldn’t have tied that down so good.”

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John Ranalletta
9 minutes ago, Rinkydink said:

Some great tips already given.
 

Personally I prefer Ancra type tie downs. I’ve had some incidents with the ratchet type. I always use soft ties and minimum of 4 tie downs at 4 corners. Cinch them up, throw a half hitch and tie the free ends down. Secure the front wheel to keep it from turning (if there is no front wheel chock) and you’re set. Check often. 👍
 

I’ve never heard anyone say “Man, I wish I wouldn’t have tied that down so good.”

You only have to see your m/c "resting" at 45 deg once after a fast curve to understand that!

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I usually tie the brake handle to help lock the front wheel.

I also don't rely on just the ratchet holding, but do a couple of half-hitches of the tail around the strap at the ratchet, so even if the mechanism fails, it won't loosen. That's the hope, anyway.

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After strapping a Jeep in a toy hauler for a few years, there was always concern about putting the Jeep in the toyhaulers kitchen during rush hour traffic through Atlanta when some asshat would jump in front of you and pop their brakes forcing you to pop your brakes and hoping that everything held.  It always did.  Go with the gut, strap it down, wiggle it around and have insurance

 

This was the test fit.  To actually fit it, I'd have to remove the rear bumper and tire carrier.  Jeep weighed in at 3800lbs, NCC of the trailer was 4400lbs.  Tie down capacity--probably not rated for the Jeep, but held through my driving.  

 

1830836712_889047-jeepinside2.jpg.016a839fd56a7dc99ae016d561a0ff05.jpg1889124384_889038-truckandcamper.jpg.83ccb108ffdbacf2c4ab9ad176d8fac6.jpg

 

For the bikes, I just use the hook end, find a spot, ratchet it down, give a shake and bounce and drive on.  The HP4 I had to use the cups cause I couldn't find a hook spot on the front.

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RandyShields

For this year's UN in Arkansas, I rented a 14' trailer due to the anticipated 95+ degree heat (which actually exceeded 100 on the way home).  I loaded my GS, then drove from Charlotte to Marietta. GA to pick up Chris K and TyTass.  The trailer wasn't long enough for all three GSs to go in straight but, with Craig being a C130 loadmaster in a prior life, we put his GS (Big Bird) in sideways.  Chris and I watched him do his magic in the heat and, when finished, those bikes weren't budging an inch.  He did have to re-secure my bike because it was not up to his standards.  Of course, after completely drenching his t-shirt, he had to take a quick shower before we could head out.

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14 hours ago, Twisties said:

I have a set like this on order, but 5200 lbs break rating.  Also about $40.  The name is cool, but they are made in China, I think.  

 

They all are made in China with the exception of Mac's Link. I've got a set from Mac that I use to tie down the Spyder and they are definitely better quality. Just ordered another set from Mac for the motorcycle the ratchet mechanism on the China stuff is crap compared to what Mac builds. I learned in the Airforce air load course to all ways have one wrap on the spool before cranking down on the ratchet of a tie down strap.

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Sideways loading

 

I shoulda got a picture when it was strapped in.

 

Green drawing was how I had it hooked

 

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13 hours ago, Twisties said:

Thanks John.  I'll look for the frame holes.

Jan, I don't connect the soft loops to the frame in the front. BMW has instructions in the owners manual for securing the tie down straps. They show the front tie down point is a loop around the telelever just be careful of the wires. 

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John Ranalletta
15 minutes ago, MikeB60 said:

Jan, I don't connect the soft loops to the frame in the front. BMW has instructions in the owners manual for securing the tie down straps. They show the front tie down point is a loop around the telelever just be careful of the wires. 

I must've misremembered.  Anyway, on the RT, the soft ties or strap get wedged between fork leg and bracket.  I'm happy with the frame attachment.

 

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How I do it. Double soft ties and two straps. So far so good. Most of us do it like this so nothing ground breaking, I just had a picture. :dontknow: :spittake:
image.thumb.jpeg.f16bd19bfe4a365b74d2a96eb4bc8ee7.jpeg

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roadscholar
7 hours ago, Rougarou said:

After strapping a Jeep in a toy hauler for a few years, there was always concern about putting the Jeep in the toyhaulers kitchen during rush hour traffic through Atlanta when some asshat would jump in front of you and pop their brakes forcing you to pop your brakes and hoping that everything held. 

 

That brings up another point and may affect me more than others but when towing I have to put myself in passive mode instead of my normally semi-aggressive nature. Trying to fight traffic towing a trailer is a losing battle, I just hang out in the slow lane, play defense and try to deal with whatever they throw at you. When cagers see a trailer they automatically want around it no matter how fast you're going then like Roug says they'll give you a brake check. Sometimes I can't help it and for grins make it hard for them but the outcome is usually the same : )  Another thing, curves and turns, I've learned to take them much slower than you would normally, there's more side g-loading than you'd think. 

 

Here's a homemade toyhauler my buddy Dave and I used when going out west, luxury accommodations for two old guys that need their own sleeping area  : ) There was a guest room for visitors and satellite trips too (the old Dodge Roadtrek).

 

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7X10 trailer w/fold down double bed and fold down couch in rear, 3 dualsports when traveling with cushions in between in case of anything unforeseen.

 

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Like Rinkydink mentioned, most of those are Ancra brand straps, far and away the best small and mid-size bike tie downs, they've held up for 15-20 years.

 

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roadscholar
25 minutes ago, szurszewski said:

You should really secure that fruit - what if a peel made it out to the road? Chaos!

 

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Lol, that's Dave's room, he takes enough stuff along to supply a small regiment.

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That work trip I recently did, the bike was strapped right in front of 6k lbs  with only two straps holding that heavy junk in place.   IMG_4983.thumb.jpeg.513169b97d0ec756abe74b2b99d4d1a1.jpeg

 

 

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