That One Thing About Every Specific Bike or Category of Bike

[David]

I've been thinking, recently. I know--I'm shocked too.

 

But I've been thinking about how each different motorcycle I ride seems to have a particular feature to master before I can get much better on it. I'm assuming we ride at a basic level of competency, of course, but against that background each bike presents some challenge that should be mastered very early in your experience in order to ride it well. I'll illustrate what I mean with my bikes and then some other examples:

 

Bike Example: Aprilia Tuono

Thing to master first: rider input. The very taught racing frame translates the slightest twitch to affect the bike's path.

 

Bike Example: BMW R1200GS

Thing to master first: engaged body position. Three things make this bike really easy to get lazy on. First is the "sit up and beg" position. Second is the extra leverage available with the wide handlebars. Third is the unusually great cornering clearance. All those things add up to a bike that finds you just plopped on it and reverting to bad habits.

 

Bike Example: KTM 450 EXC

Thing to master first: momentum. It weighs 250 lbs and puts out nearly 50 hp, and getting just the right speed over a log or rocks or whatever means not going too slow or too fast by controlling pacing and always being aware of your momentum. What effect will this bump have? The WP suspension is really, really good, but it's sprung for intense terrain.

 

Bike Example: Kawaski Ninja 250

Thing to master first: gear selection. Let's just say that there's not much spare power, so you'll need to be at the right place in the power band!

 

Bike Example: Kawasaki KLR 650

Thing to master first: rear braking. The rear brake is very effective and easy to modulate. The front, well, there ain't much there.

 

Bike Example: BMW R????RT

Thing to master first: corner entry speed. Everything about the bike masks entry speed: smooth airflow; lack of noise; suspension compliance; quiet muffler.

 

I think we could make a case for this with larger categories of bikes, too. For instance...

 

Category Example: Trials Bike

Thing to master: intentional weight transfer. This is even more important than balance and throttle control to me.

 

Category Example: Race Replica Track Bike

Thing to master: loose front arms on handlebars. If you don't figure this out, nothing's going to work well on the bike itself and you'll tire easily.

 

I love riding lots of bikes. My favorite setting is getting on a bike I've never ridden before and trying to ride it well as quickly as possible. In that (at times elusive) pursuit, I try to quickly determine what's going to kick my ass unless I get past it early.

 

Have any of you noticed this sort of thing?

[tallman]

Yep.

Just yesterday.

Friend gave me an Aeroflow windshield for the GT.

Normally I like clean air and run smaller screens.

Put on the Aeroflow and it changed perceptions of corner entry speed and highway speed due to less air hitting me.

It also created a challenge to maintain MYRP because I wasn't getting lift from air hitting me at 70+mph.

To solve this I put the barbacks the bike came with back on last night.

Now I'm close to a sit up and beg.

What happened? Don't know that I like my KRT.

Will have to relearn inputs, posture, etc...

Not sure I'm up for all that just to keep more cold air off me.

The GT was/is still a lesson in progress for me before changing all this stuff. Don't know if my brain/body can work this out.

You are right, each bike brings a different set of criteria necessitating different rider input.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Oh yeah, your onto something there pal.

 

From my current running stable.

 

1100SBX - visceral. Engine vibes and exhaust note give good clues for corner entry speed as does the minimal windscreen. Easy to ride at 8/10ths or so as clearance is not an issue nor is traction, more as result of not much power than superior suspension. Beyond 8/10ths it requires good body position and paying a bunch more attention to what the front end is doing. It really doesn't tell you much about that front tire so you have to look for the subtle clues.

 

Honda Blackbird. - Darn bike has too much power and is too smooth and is also a heavy SOB. A potentially lethal combination. It will spin the rear tire in corners with very little provocation, at least with sport touring tires. It gathers speed in such a refined rush that it is way too easy to get into the next corner at a pace over your head. This bike, like a K12RS, really requires some involved riding to go well on. It is quite responsive to body position and peg weighting and rewards smoothness with some pretty good progress. It really is at its best in sweepers as the long wheelbase and high mass make it a handful in the tight stuff. I can't define 8/10ths on this bike. The range from 7/10 to 11/10 is only a few degrees of throttle and about 2000 RPM apart. Did I mention that the brakes are not the equal of the engine? Again, more entry speed problems.

 

R100S - This thing is deceptive as well except for the brakes. No deception there, there are none when compared to a modern bike. Suspension is way soft making throttle control in corners of paramount importance. Suprisingly it has more than enough motor, just that big flywheel makes it very controllable.

 

I'm not at all sure I would be up for a race replica type experience anymore. My vision certainly isn't up to the speeds and my reflexs are probably not there for the quick reactions as things start to go wrong. I'm getting antsy to get the VFR back on the road. Chassis is similar to that of the 'bird but with less power it will be easier to ride smoothly.

[russell_bynum]

600CC Inline four sportbike:

(In addition to the "Loose on the arms thing you mentioned") Powerband. If you don't keep it in an appropriate rev range, it's and underpowered pig. Put it in the right range, and the front wheel starts clawing skyward.

 

Lisa's FZR600 on the track:

Body position and throttle control. Poor ground clearance and VERY soft suspension means you really have to get off the bike and keep it upright to avoid dragging stuff. The bad suspension means you have to be very smooth and precise with your throttle movements in order to keep everything planted.

 

K1200RS: Stay loose on the bars. More than just about any other bike I've ridden, the KRS wants you to countersteer, get the bike leaned, then release all pressure from the bars. All bikes want you to do this, but the KRS seems to demand it if you want the thing to turn at all.

[tallman]

Russell,

ref KRS (or GT in my case).

What you say is what I read years ago in a post by Master Yoda. It is so true.

I'm still a long way from where I can be on mine.

That's why this ergo alteration I've done is messing w/my riding.

My countersteering input w/barbacks and more upright seating is not in synch w/body movements.

[Whip]

Rememberin how the blinkers work on my three street bikes takes all I got.

 

 

 

Yamaha ...1 switch

 

Harley....2

 

BMW.......3

 

 

The clutches are all different and each ones engine has a totally different personality.

 

They all have handling issues, but I ride them different so I really don't have any trouble.

[AviP]

During emergency mid-corner steering,

 

My ZX11 (sold) - hated it.

My RT - Complies fairly well.

My R1 - Feels like it's on rails.

 

I think it's something to do with that rake and trail crap + weight and CG.

[steve.foote]

DRZ400S - Things to master first: Tighten all bolts.

[David]

Thanks for the responses, folks. Something else that occurred to me is the difference between learning how to ride "a motorcycle" and learning how to ride "motorcycles."

 

If you are learning how to ride "motorcycles" while on "a motorcycle," you are learning the basic skills in a manner that is easily transferable to a bike you've never ridden before, and that's a really good thing.

 

In flying, I always strived to learn how to fly, and not so much how to fly this particular bird.

[Huzband]

Back in the 70's, when I had my trials bike, & got the R75/6.

 

Bultaco; right side shift, left side brake.

 

Beemer; opposite the Bul.

 

First few rides on the Beemer were, umm, interesting.

 

But, being the Neanderthal I am, I adapted.

 

Quoting David;

"In flying, I always strived to learn how to fly, and not so much how to fly this particular bird."

 

My best freind back then, a future NATC trials champion, could get on any, & I mean any motorcycle, & ride it like he had lived on it for years.

One particular day, a fellow brought over his brand new XL250. He liked it, but complained it was under-powered, as it couldn't lift the front wheel. I got on it, & promptly showed him how easy it was to wheelie in first gear. Remember, this is a very heavy, mid 70's dual sport pig.

Curt, the aforementioned freind, then hopped aboard, & rode down the street about a block. He turned around,& lofted the front wheel in first gear. He then proceeded to go through second, third, & finally, it wouldn't hold it up in fourth.

 

Curt, although a teenager at the time, clearly knew how to ride "motorcycles".

[jeddy]

Bike Example: KTM 450 EXC

Thing to master first: momentum. It weighs 250 lbs and puts out nearly 50 hp, and getting just the right speed over a log or rocks or whatever means not going too slow or too fast by controlling pacing and always being aware of your momentum. What effect will this bump have? The WP suspension is really, really good, but it's sprung for intense terrain.[

 

I really struggled with this yesterday. We were on some pretty technical terrain with tight single track, rocks, roots, and trees on either side. For much of the day I was either not carrying enough speed over obstacles and stalled the bike or I was flying up the steep stuff and bouncing off trees! I'm wondering at what point do you start changing the motorcycle rather than mastering a particular characteristic of the machine? For me, the KTM could use a gearing change.

 

I think I'm going to a 52 tooth rear sprocket as the bike seems geared high for the tight stuff. Still....what a fun bike to ride. There were a few times where the excellent suspension made me look like a much better rider than I am.

[steve.foote]

I think I'm going to a 52 tooth rear sprocket as the bike seems geared high for the tight stuff.

 

That's exactly what I'm doing for my low-end power problem. New sprockets and chain should be in tomorrow taking my 15/44 to 14/47. I don't need to be able to do 90mph on a dirt bike. That additional low-end torque, however, is definately welcome.

 

See you in a week and change.

[David]

I'm glad my post was helpful to you.

 

Yes, I added two teeth to the rear and now it's perfect. I also know exactly what you mean abou that suspension. Like seeing a steep path covered in large rocks and thinking there is no way in hell, then playing the part of the rodeo cowboy after the gates are opened, and being more amazed than even those watching you that you made it through still attached to the bike.

[Paul De]

It's all so personal that for the same list of bikes another person may have a different set of "one things".

 

I will add that over the years spent racing with my brother I noticed two very distinct kind of riders. Those who must get the rolling chassis and engine combinaion just right before they are able to ride competitively fast and riders who can ride almost any reasonably correct chassis and engine set up competitivley fast. The second type of rider is a bit more rare. The difference is the second type of rider seems more able to adapt their riding style to quirks of the machine they are on and not let it get in their head during a race. These type of riders are near impossible to tune for at the amature level as they often can't fully verbalize what works better for them or not and you don't pick it up on the stop watch in any big way.

 

Watch out for the second kind of rider because if they are able to arrive at their perfect set up thmselves, or get hooked up with someone who can provide their perfect set up to them, they are at the very least a regional force and with proper sponsorship are capable of championships at the national or even internation level.

 

Sadly I am naturally slow and in the first catagory of rider because I have riden some guys bikes and wondered how in the hell they go so fast on it with the way it is set up. In the end I very likely might have two things about each bike that keeps me from a superior ride. My knocks on my '99 RT aside from horse power are heavy steering on trailing throttle unless the tires are super fresh and the tendancy to push the front tire in tight turns which I think is due to the reaward weight bias on distriburion.

[russell_bynum]

The difference is the second type of rider seems more able to adapt their riding style to quirks of the machine they are on and not let it get in their head during a race. These type of riders are near impossible to tune for at the amature level as they often can't fully verbalize what works better for them or not and you don't pick it up on the stop watch in any big way.

 

This is very much how Valentino is...except he's very good at verbalizing what's wrong with the bike. Although...I remember Jeremy Burgess said (at Laguna) that one of the problems they're having this year is Vale gets out there in practice and turns respectable laptimes. Then they go for qualifying where everything has to really be ON, and the bike is very slow. Turns out, Vale is riding around the problems with the bike in practice, so they never know it's a problem until he tries to get 100% out of it for qualifying. That's why we saw Vale qualify back in the back of the pack with the Tech 3 Yamahas and d'Antin Ducati's, but then he'd be competitive in the race....they'd use qualifying and morning warmup to fix the bike setup problems that they were supposed to be fixing in practice. By the time the race rolled around, the combination of the fixes and Valentino's skill would be enough to make him competitive.

[philbytx]

Quote

In flying, I always strived to learn how to fly, and not so much how to fly this particular bird.

unquote

 

Unless its a Piper PA28-201T with automatic landing gear, a T-Tail and a manual wastegate turbo

[Amac]

Buell Ulysses: How to ride through curves at ever increasing rates of speed that no other motorcycle could possibly touch.

 

BMW K1200R: How to keep one eye on the speedometer so that your license remains in your wallet and not in the wallet of the nice officer who is waiting to pull you over.

 

Harley FXD How to keep one eye off the speedometer Actually, it's the truth. The bike is so easy to ride it requires next to no thought. It's very much an "enjoy the scenery and smell the roses" type of riding that leaves behind the technical riding that higher strung mounts demand.

[steveknapp]

Thinking this through (I'll save you my bike history) two things came out.

 

First would be my skill set. In my timeline of riding there are not only changes in bikes, but changes in myself. It would be interesting to go find a '98 Triumph Trophy and take it for a ride. I think my perceptions of the bike would be drastically different.

 

The second would be a list of bike charaistics or flaws, that enforced bad or wrong behaviors.

 

The goal for the next season is to work on body posistion on the Buell. I feel a lot more "As one" on this bike and for whatever reason even when I think I'm doing the right thing I'm really locked into the dang thing.