Canbus helper: Help! Relay wiring R1200RT

[RocksforBrains]

OK, so I am electrically challenged. I have just mounted a Touratech canbus helper fuse block. Following the lead of Mark Goodrich I believe, I snaked some wiring loom up under the faring to under the dash and have successfully run the power wire for my Sirius satellite radio through the loom to the canbus block (Thanks Mark!). So far so good. I ran the yellow relay wire back to my tail light and connected it with a scothlock. When I turn on the key, the relay buzzes like hell and no power to the radio. I seem to remember a poster having the buzzing relay issue a couple of weeks ago. I have a 2005 R1200RT.

 

Does anyone have a suggestion of where I should tie the yellow relay wire into? I would rather not take off the fairings, but I will if I have to. Please tell me where on the bike, and which wire (color etc).

 

Thanks!

 

Kurt

[Timmer]

When I installed my canbus helper I was told by the shop techs not to use the tail light as a power source for the relay. They suggested using the parking lamp circuit up by the headlight.

 

They also told me to stay away from the backside of the accessory socket. It was easier to get to, so I did it anyway - just to see if it would work. It works just fine... YMMV

 

By the way, on the ST I took the tupperware off the left side and ran the wires next to the wiring loom. I wanted to be certain the wire wasn't too near to any hot engine parts.

[Rocket_Cowboy]

My canbus helper is also tied into the rear accessory socked. Works great from there.

[RocksforBrains]

Which wire in the rear accessory socket did you tie into (color or description)?

 

Kurt

[99Roadster]

I believe it's the one with the red stripe. The brown wire is ground.

[RocksforBrains]

Thanks!

 

Kurt

[kurt1305]

I use one of these:

 

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/2868/252/

 

No splicing necessary.

[russg]

I ran a wire, scotch lock attached, from the front marker light back to a relay and it works perfectly with no CAN-BUS delay.

 

--russ

[Jim VonBaden]

 

I use the blue/green wire from the diagnostic plug to run mine, and my GF's 12ST as well.

 

No issues in a combined 45K miles.

 

With a Centech on my GS.

 

And a mini-Centech on her ST.

 

Jim

[Ken H.]

On the CAN-BUS equipped bikes the tail and brake light are not supplied with a straight 12V. Rather they are driven by the ZFE module with a square wave, the frequency of which is changed depending upon the brightness needed. Thus the relay buzzed, and why the tail (or brake) light is a poor place to tap for a relay or other similar accessory.

[RocksforBrains]

Russ:

 

How did you access the front marker light? It seems to be where the experts want you to splice the trigger wire, but it look like a B***h to get access to enough to tap. Does removing the upper left or right fairing get you close?

 

Jim:

 

Any idea where the diagnostic plug is located on a 2005 R1200RT?

 

Thanks guys!

 

Kurt

[Jim VonBaden]

I'm not 100% sure, but it should look like the one on the GS, and it should be under the seat!

 

It might be in a sealed box like the ST, but a couple screws to remove it and you can access the wires.

 

Jim

[Buckster]

Kurt, if you're looking for an accessory like switch relay activation point, I used the 0.35mm violet wire coming from the ignition switch (which is powered directly from the battery before going through any computer). This violet wire goes +12v when the ignition switch is turned to the off position (not steering locked) and stays hot when the ign switch is turned to the on position. I use it to be able to power my relays even though the ign switch is turned off. It does go off when the ign switch is turned to the steering locked position. This violet wire goes to the radio which is computer controlled to go off after about 20 mins. But the violet wire stays hot. The violet wire comes from the ign switch and runs around the left side to the steering head then behind the steering head across to the right side of the frame. There is a plug that it goes into there. If you have the radio or radio prep package, the violet wire will continue out of the plug to the radio case. I tapped into it (solder and heat shrink) while the fuel tank was off but I think you can get to it with the tank cover pieces off. If I remember correctly the plug was zipped tied down.

I like it because it allows me to keep accessories on even though the engine is turned off kind of like a car's accessory position. I would not power an accessory with it, only control a relay's coil.

Buckster

[buzzboy]

This leads me to a question, that may have already been answered elsewhere. If you wanted to pick up power for the relay from an accessory plug port, but instead of splicing a wire, wished to obtain a connector so you could connect in to the harness like the accessory plug does, anyone know what connector that is and where to obtain one?

 

I hope that was clear. The general idea is to plug in to the harness at the connector, then use that to power the relay and run the accessory plugs from the fuse block. Eliminated wire splicing.

 

Thanks!!

[buzzboy]

Never mind. The twistedthrottle piece posted above does the same thing and is an even slicker method.

[Husker Red]

Last night I was wiring up my PIAA lights and my Blue sea fuse box which powers my GPS, Sat radio, Autocom, and an outlet. I got switched power for my relay from the rear accessory connector which has worked out well. It stays on for 30-60 seconds after I switch off the bike and I like that.

 

The PIAA's are wired directly to the battery and currently I have the relay wire attached to the blue sea fuse box. That works, but the PIAA's stay on for the 30 seconds after turning off the switch. I don't think that is a good idea.

 

So - I'm looking for a switched power supply that turns off instantly when the ignition is switched off. I've read that the front Parking lights would be good for that, but I couldn't see where the wiring for those. Jim VB mentions the diagnostic plug, but I'm not sure where that is either. The "twisted throttle" product listed above looks like it would work perfectly, but I don't really want to spend $20 plus shipping and time for something I can do for free today.

 

So... Where the heck is the parking light power wire?

 

Mike

[Ken H.]

So... Where the heck is the parking light power wire?

At the the parking light. Not trying to ba a smart _ss. Running a wire up to it is truly the easiest way. In fact that is exactly what the Touratech TPS-15 CAN-bus helper unit does.

[Husker Red]

Well, the problem here could certainly be that I'm a dumb a$$ , but I couldn't find any wires going in directly behind the parking light. It appears to me that there is a central group of wires going into the headlight area that might then be directed to each light behind a panel.

 

Now, I was doing this at 1:30 in the morning and was getting frustrated so it's entirely possible that I was simply looking in the wrong spot. I had removed the side panels because I installed cylinder head guards too, but I had not removed the mirrors or any dash panels. Perhaps I need to? Do I have to remove the headlight assembly? I'll look again with fresh eyes.

[Ken H.]

Oh, you're right! I wasn't thinking R1200 RT. The parking light is the green/blue wire coming from the cluster. My oversight. Sorry.

[HandyAndy]

On my 05 R12RT I found this empty connector just in front of the radio box, tied to the frame by the right speaker.

It has two wires in it. One has 5vdc and the other is 12vdc (the light blue one I believe), both are switched with the ignition key. I just pluged a spade connector into the 12vdc one and it works great! It turns off about two seconds after the key is switched off.

Not sure if all years of R12RT have this spare connector or not.

Didn't have to buy any parts, no modification to the wiring harness of the bike and it is reversable in a matter of seconds!

 

 

Andy.

[Husker Red]

 

Ah, thanks for the help guys. Everything is buttoned up again and I'm about to ride to FL, but I'll work on it when I get home. For now I'll just be sure the PIAA's don't run down my battery by shutting them off with their switch.

 

Many thanks,

 

Mike