Audiovox Cruise Control

[RTRay]

I am considering putting an Audiovox CCS-100 cruise on my 1997 R1100RT. I see that they also have an electronic cruise available that does not use engine vacuum. Has anyone done this or used the electronic cruise instead of the vacuum cruise? I would think that the electronic would be somewhat simpler to install since you don't have to use a vacuum source off the engine. However, the electronic cruise is twice the price of the vacuum cruise. Is it worth the price difference to avoid the hassle of the vacuum line? I have the instructions on how to install the CCS-100 from a guy on the adventure riders forum. He says the Audiovox works great and isn't very difficult to install--we'll see!

 

Where would I draw vacuum from on my R1100RT if I did install the vacuum cruise?

 

Any ideas would be appreciated!

 

Terry

[keithb]

I believe one of our members in Utah installed that unit and he says it works just like a car cruise control. The cost was reasonable as I recall ($700 or so).

[jjg3]

If you have instructions, would appreciate same. Just picked up a CCS100 that I intend to install since my 96 R11RT is down for maintenance. Also have 2 vacuum cans. I suspect the vacuum will come from the lines that come out below the throttle bodies, of course at this point that is only a guess.

[doveguy1]

let us know how you come out

[RTRay]

I will let you know how it comes out. I'm not planning on installing the cruise right away though. It will go in this November when I have a couple of weeks off.

 

I do have the basic instructions that were emailed to me for the cruise set up. If anyone wants them email me at south.terry@gmail.com and I will send them out to you.

 

Terry

[RBertalotto]

Send me an email and I'll send you a bunch of articles I wrote on installing the Audiovox Cruise Control on motorcycles. But in return I want a complete write-up with pictures on your install on a BMW..:-)

 

I recently installed the electronic version (without vacuum) on my V Strom and it is a much nicer unit. Two cylinder bikes just don't create enough vacuum doing up hills to keep the small vacuum canister "charged".

 

The electronic version is from Rostra (these folks build all the Audiovox units)

 

rvb100@comcast.net

[RTRay]

Roy--

The mounting instructions I have are from you!

 

You emailed them to me a few months ago and I have been going over them and figuring out the installation for my RT. Those instructions, along with the instructions from the MCcruise, are very informative and really show how to install the whole cruise. I may well use the vacuum less system just to avoid the vacuum problem--still haven't made that decision.

 

As I install the cruise I will take notes and pics for anyone who wants them.

 

Thanks,

Terry

[RBertalotto]

Good deal! Lots of pictures and a little "How To" would be great!

[jjg3]

So I finally got around to finishing up the install of the Audiovox CCS100. There's tons more stuff in the box than anyone could use on a motorcycle. I think that's what makes it intimidating, the miles of wire and all the little pieces.

Once you get past all the crap, it's relatively, if not simple, at least straightforward.

The unit and vacuum can are located in the rear under-seat. There's plenty of room. I used the vacuum can as I ended up with 2 so I plugged one in just for grins. It was easy enough to take it out of the loop for testing and it seems to me the cruise is happier with the can.

 

The unit and vacuum can in the rear storage (there's still room for the tool roll). The wire bundle cover (loom) is provided in the kit.

 

The wiring...

Remove the jumper for standard transmissions.

I cut off the magnet speed sensor black and gray paired wires as they were not needed. So instead of 9 wires coming out of the connector at the servo unit there'll be 7. BROWN, YELLOW, GREEN, RED (all connect through the plug to the corresponding switch wires) and PURPLE to brake light wiring, BLACK to ground, and BLUE to the coil black wire.

 

The plastic 2-piece connector is color coded and you have to install the individual harness wires (matching color BROWN, YELLOW, GREEN, RED wires) from the controls to one side and the unit connector bank to the other side. I wonder why the wires don't come inserted in the plug?

 

Anyway...

The RED and GRAY wire from the unit and the RED wire from the control are all power so I connected them and tapped in to a switched wire (Sirius radio connection) coming out of the fuse box.

 

This is the connector and dip switches in the unit. Disregard the settings as they are not on final setting. The little red LED lights up with the brake light power. So you know if you have the right brake wire tapped with the PURPLE wire if, with power on, you hit either brake and the little LED lights up. I went straight to the tail light unit and connected the PURPLE wire directly to the tail light bulb. Some say you can't do this if you have LED back-off lights. Well, I have LED back-off flashing lights and it works fine. I guess whoever said it doesn't work tapped into the back-off wiring and not the incandescent brake light. The jumper removed from under the LED. You can just see the gray wire and the black wire that will connect to it. I cut them away after this photo.

 

I don't have a picture of it but the BLUE wire from the servo unit goes to the black wire on the coil. Not the coil plug wire (it's too big), not the green wire... but connect the unit BLUE wire to the little black wire on the coil.

 

This is the tab at the bottom of the left throttle body where the cruise control cable will be installed. I have a 96RT so the left throttle body cable pulls a cable across to the right TB. No box to contend with. This simplifies things.

 

This is the same tab with the CC linkage installed. The tube in the foreground is the vacuum tap at the left TB.

 

My machine has a crossover vacuum line that connects the L/R TBs. I simply disconnected the vacuum line at the left TB and used one of the many vacuum T connectors provided. This allowed using vacuum from both TBs very simply.

 

 

Also not pictured is the attaching of the cruise cable to the throttle cable. It's not pretty and I didn't get a picture before putting the tupperware back on. I'm not going to rip it off for a picture but next time it comes off will try to remember the camera. The cable really needs to run in the same plane as the throttle cable. Works out really well to be as nearly parallel as possible. I simply wire-tied the CC cable to the throttle cable at the adjustment standoff. Looking at the TB connection photo, you can pretty much tell where the connection of the 2 cables takes place.

 

This is the switch unit installed

 

The unit functions now. Either brake will shut of the cruise as will pulling in the clutch. Not turn the power off to the unit, but disconnect the cruise function. As intended.

 

It works, but am now playing with the dip switches to see what effect it has. Currently on 4th iteration and will run with just #7 on (which will always remain on as this is the option for speed identification by coil). I've had it on short interstate runs (commuting to work) but haven't had a chance to test it on a good, long section of road.

 

It really does look and sound more complex than it is. The hardest time I had was finding where I wanted to put all the pieces. The unit and the vacuum can are still sitting under the seat not really attached. The cable attachment is sufficient for the system to operate.

 

More photos here... under Audiovox install

 

Thanks to Roy Bertalotto for his excellent instructions.

[smiller]

 

Thanks for the info, I might give this a go myself. BTW here is some more installation info... it's for a Valkyrie but much of the info is applicable to any bike. Also, at the bottom of the page are links to install tips for several other type of motorcycles... lots of good info there too...

[smiller]

I think I'm going to give the Audiovox CCS100 unit a try. None of the many install write-ups I've read (several on 2-cylinder bikes) report any problems with insufficient vacuum, and since the Audiovox is available on Amazon for 85 bucks/free shipping the Rostra unit would be more than twice as expensive. Probably gonna wait till the weather cools a bit here before I install it though.

[Fugu]

Awagnon has this on his bike I think (I know he's got some electronic cruise system) and he loves it.

 

You might ping him if he doesn't see this thread. He's a good egg.

[RTRay]

I purchased my CCS-100 a few weeks ago for around $95.00 including shipping. A good friend of mine at work had one on his R1150GS using the vacuum system and had no problems with it at all. He did make his own vacuum bottle out of PVC pipe and used a couple of check valves for the vacuum control. It seems that way may be the way to go with this. He also gave me a set of mounting instructions from a company called Riders Resource LLC showing how to install their cruise on a GS. Theirs is very similar to the CCS-100 and it looks like the install is near identical.

 

I will also wait a little until it cools off more before installing the cruise. When I do I'll take plenty of pictures and post the install on my Google page. I'll let you know how it works out. jjg3 has done such a great job of photgraphing everything as he installed the CCS-100 that I will make good use of his pics! My install may well be just like his except I will have to hide the servo and vacuum under the fairing as my tail section is already filled up. If anyone else has any tips let me know! I've already gotten a few emails from some very helpful guys telling me how to make the install easier and what to avoid--Thanks!!

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/south.terry

 

Terry

[awagnon]

Awagnon has this on his bike I think (I know he's got some electronic cruise system) and he loves it.

 

I have the MC Cruise control made in Australia. Yes, I like it a lot, but it was considerably more expensive than the Audiovox Cruise Control, but much cheaper than an R1200RT.

[RTRay]

I have started working on the cruise install on a very rainy cold day here in Illinois. It seems that the '97 RT uses the throttle cable mixing box that sits just below the battery box to control both throttles. Does anyone know how to get to that box? My manual shows it sliding out the right side of the bike but I don't see how that can be. It looks like the servo control cable will have to mount somewhere in that box.

 

Thanks--

Terry

[smiller]

Please let us know what you work out, or if anyone else has installed a universal cruise control unit on a '97 or later oilhead please speak up. Mine will be installed on a '96 (no junction box, just a single cable) so it should be straightforward, but I've got a friend with a '97 who would like to do a similar install but also has the junction box issue to contend with.

[RTRay]

Since it looks like my '97RT throttle cable goes into the junction box and I can't get into it without major surgery, I am considering attaching a small attachment link onto the throttle cable itself a few inches outside the box. This would involve cutting away about two inches of the throttle cable plastic cover, attaching a link to the cable with an attachment point on it that the servo cable end can be attached to, attaching the servo cable and recovering the whole thing with a weather tight rubber cover of some type that allows the whole thing to move uninhibited. I don't see any other way to do it without getting into the junction box.

 

Does this make sense? It seems that the worse thing that could happen is that I may end up having to replace the throttle cable anyway. The rest of the install seems pretty simple.

 

Does anyone know where the coil wires run from the back of the coil? I don't seem to have a diagram of the line layout going to the coil.

 

Thanks--

Terry

[Boffin]

There is a clip above the box that needs pushing up out of the way, then the box slides out. It is tight, but id does do it - honest!

edit: you have to release the LH short cable as well.

Andy

[awagnon]

I don't think cutting the throttle cable and splicing into it would work. You would need some way to keep the cable sheath from moving with the inner cable after it's cut.

 

The MC Cruise control adds a second junction box that mounts under the front fairing with a short, approximately 12 inch, throttle cable going from their box to the throttle.

 

Yes, the Bowden box will slide out the right side after lifting the tab, disconnecting the left throttle body cable, and pushing hard.

[RTRay]

After looking at the Bowden box closely I don't think the best way to attack this problem is by going into the box to connect the cable. I have a set of instructions from a GS Cruise from Riders Resource LLC that uses a set up very similar to the CCS-100. They run the servo cable to a splitter that goes to each different throttle body and attaches on each throttle mechanism. This seems to work very well as long as the length of each cable end is adjusted properly. This is how I am going to try to work this problem out first. If this doesn't work I will try something else.

 

Terry

[smiller]

They run the servo cable to a splitter that goes to each different throttle body and attaches on each throttle mechanism.

That would seem to me to be a poor way to do it since you'd be adding an additional TB sync task, seem like kind of a maintenance PITA. Looking at the MCC (the guys in Australia) docs, it seems that their solution is to add another bowden box-like device in line with the throttle cable (the new device connects to the existing throttle cable end, then to the stock bowden box.) This solution would avoid having to do two TB syncs. A good deal more difficult to engineer though, probably why they get $600 for their system...

 

But you may be able to buy another BMW bowden box (I don't think they're too expensive) and convert it to match the functionality described above?

 

 

[jjg3]

Never having seen a bowden box in person, it would appear based on diagrams that one solution would be to attach the CC cable to whichever cable would provide the easiest attachment since the result would be the same, and further attach the cc cable swaged end (using any or several of the many parts provided) to the pulley (in the box) on the open side of the box (if the box is in fact open on one side). The cc cable would then pull the pulley, as it were. The cc cable need only be in the same plane, not parallel to any particular cable and pulling on the bowden pulley would seem to be the simplest fix. The same theory when attaching to a 96 left side TB pulley, only placing the pulley in the box.

[smiller]

Yes, was thinking that too... that solution looks to be fairly straightforward to implement, the only problem there is that there isn't much clearance where the bowden box mounts... I'm not sure you could make the assembly any thicker and have it still fit...

[RTRay]

The Bowden box fits in very tight and I don't see how I can attch the cc cable end without messing up the rest of the box. That would be the ideal way to do it if I could. Another way would be to actually attach the cc cable directly to the throttle mechanism up on the handle bar. Some have done that and had success, but my RT doesn't have any point where I could easily attach to that area. The beauty of the Riders Resource cruise design is that you don't mess with the original throttle set up at all. The cc servo line pulls up on the tabs on the throttle bodies themselves. As long as you take your time and set up the pull cables correctly so they each pull the same amount I don't see where this should be a problem. A good friend of mine has this cruise on his 1150GS and loves it. This seems to me to be the easiest way to move both throttles at the same time without digging into the Bowden box. Who knows--it may not work. However, if it doesn't I can rerun the cc line another way and dig into the Bowden box if needed.

 

Terry

[jjg3]

A good friend of mine has this cruise on his 1150GS and loves it.

 

I think this is key. If there is a known functioning system that you can rely on as a guide/template then I would certainly suggest duplicating it. It appears my idea would require hacking on the box if the fit is that tight and maybe would be a last resort, with a spare box in hand just in case.

[Ken H.]

The Bowden box fits in very tight and I don't see how I can attch the cc cable end without messing up the rest of the box. That would be the ideal way to do it if I could. Another way would be to actually attach the cc cable directly to the throttle mechanism up on the handle bar. Some have done that and had success, but my RT doesn't have any point where I could easily attach to that area. The beauty of the Riders Resource cruise design is that you don't mess with the original throttle set up at all. The cc servo line pulls up on the tabs on the throttle bodies themselves. As long as you take your time and set up the pull cables correctly so they each pull the same amount I don't see where this should be a problem. A good friend of mine has this cruise on his 1150GS and loves it. This seems to me to be the easiest way to move both throttles at the same time without digging into the Bowden box. Who knows--it may not work. However, if it doesn't I can rerun the cc line another way and dig into the Bowden box if needed.

 

Terry

I've never explored it to do, but I do know that on the R1150RT the grip and mount is set up for two cables, only one of which was used. Might that second spot be a possible connecting point for a cruise cable?

[RTRay]

I took apart the grip yesterday and didn't see any way to attach another cable to it without adding a piece on to the rotating throttle mechanism. It didn't seem to be set up to accept two cables. That sure would be the easiest way to do it.

 

This morning I set up the servo and ran the cable to a point where I can split it and run two separate cables to the separate throttle bodies. I also picked up some generic throttle cables from NAPA and some various bracket stuff from Ace. We'll see how this goes. It really doesn't look to difficult, but I will have to make the brackets to support the cable runs. It should be a challenge--I enjoy challenges!

 

Terry

[Ken H.]

I took apart the grip yesterday and didn't see any way to attach another cable to it without adding a piece on to the rotating throttle mechanism. It didn't seem to be set up to accept two cables. That sure would be the easiest way to do it.

Humm, maybe that was 1150 only.

 

Double cable locations on the twist grip.

 

 

And the cable guides of the mount.

 

 

Anyway, was just a passing thought...

 

 

 

[smiller]

It's pretty common for Japanese bikes to have dual throttle cables (and maybe K-bikes as well, and the 1150 shares the part?) but the second cable is usually used to close the throttle (as a safety measure, in case the spring breaks or the throttle gets otherwise hung up.) If so the second cable will operate in the wrong direction and can't be used to open the throttle, or at least not without some modification. But on BMWs... who knows...

[RTRay]

I'm going to take another look at my throttle in the morning to see if maybe I just missed this attachment point. It would make things a lot easier if I could attach there. Although now I have all the brackets made for the double TB hook up and am just starting to hook up the servo pull splitted and install the pull cables. It seems that the regular metal throttle cable I purchased doesn't like to make any tight turns, so I have used a heavy duty control cable from my R/C airplane days. This cable will turn any way you want it to and still pull very lightly and smoothly through its covering.

 

Terry

[RTRay]

I just looked at the A & S BMW site and took a look at their parts micros. It appears that the R1150RT does have two cable attachments on the throttle grip but the R1100RT does not. Why would this be?

 

Terry

[Ken H.]

It appears that the R1150RT does have two cable attachments on the throttle grip but the R1100RT does not. Why would this be?

Well who knows what was in the mind of BMW, but one thought is that they used the parts off the KR-S bike of that generation (that had duel cables) when they designed the R1150.

[RTRay]

It would have made the whole job a lot easier if they had put the two cable throttle on the R1100RT. It seems to me that they didn't design the throttle system in a way that would allow anyone to hook up a cruise control without a lot of effort.

 

Terry

[smiller]

 

Or at least I think it is. What's left of Hurricane Ike is keeping me from any hope of a road test today but I can 'kind of' test it in the garage... if I run the engine up to around 4k rpm and engage cruise the rpm rapidly increases (because the unit is applying too much throttle because there is no load on the engine), and then drops out of cruise automatically (because it sees the rpm incease too rapidly, making it think that the clutch has been pulled.) So I think that would be expected operation for a bike on the centerstand. Hopefully will be able to get it out on the road tomorrow. As others have said the job is more time-consuming than anything else, pretty straigtforwrad once you get the throttle connection worked out.

 

BTW while I had the bike apart I replaced both throttle bodies with a 'younger' pair since I have over 100k on the bike now. I found the right throttle shaft on the original unit to be pretty worn even though I wasn't experiencing any obvious symptoms or problems. The left also had some play but still seemed plenty OK, but the right was beyond what I would consider suitable for service. Just an FYI for you guys with older bikes.

 

[RTRay]

The install is almost done on mt RT. While doing the last little bit of wiring tonight something strange happened. I had the key turned to get the power on and after a couple of minutes my coil started making a hissing sound and started smoking a little. It was REALLY HOT! I quickly turned off the power and disconnected the coil lead and then went over the wiring, which appears to be connected up correctly. Any ideas what would cause this?

 

Thanks,

Terry

[smiller]

It sounds like you grounded the black lead of the coil, which would apply constant power (the green lead is always powered and the black lead is grounded by the Motronic when it wants to fire the plugs.) The coil then overheated, pretty badly it seems. Not sure how it happened... were you using the blue wire from the cruise control? Could this wire have been accidentally grounded somehow, maybe via damaged insulation?

 

I hate to say it but if the coil overheated that badly I don't think I'd trust it anymore.

[smiller]

Anyway, when you do get it hooked up right it works great! Holds speed perfectly on the flats with maybe +/- 1-2 mph variation on hills, about the same as any OEM system. I'm thrilled with this thing so far.

 

BTW I used the 'low' sensitivity setting (for high power-to-weight vehicles.) The 'medium' setting results in a brief surge when cruise is engaged but 'low' engages smoothly. I couldn't detect any difference between the two settings in terms of maintaining speeds, only during gross changes such as initial activation or when using 'resume.' As far as I can the the sensitivity setting only affects how much the cc computer anticipates throttle changes (not unlike a thermostat anticipator in theory), i.e. a vehicle like a motorcycle needs very little hysteresis to maintain smooth throttle transitions while something like a truck might need a lot, hence the adjustment. Anyway, 'low' seems to work perfectly for me.

 

I think this is going to be far and away the best hundred bucks I ever spent on this bike!

 

[RTRay]

Well--still no luck. I have the CC wired up as per the instructions and my coil is getting REALLY HOT---I MEAN REALLY HOT!!! When I disconnect all power from both the CC control unit and the servo, it cools down very slowly. I've gone back over the wiring at least four times and I don't see that I have anything wired incorrectly, but I am still having this problem.

 

Also, when I first turn the unit on the red light in the servo comes on for a few seconds and then goes out. It will not come back on when I depress the brake. Why?

 

This is how I have the wiring connected:

 

Servo:

 

BROWN to control BROWN

YELLOW to control YELLOW

GREEN to control GREEN

RED to 12v always ON source (extra waterproof fuse panel)

BLUE to coil BLACK (scotchlock)

PURPLE to brake GRAY/YELLOW (scotchlock)

BLACK to ground

 

Control:

 

BROWN to servo BROWN

YELLOW to servo YELLOW

GREEN to servo GREEN

RED/ORANGE to switched 12v in fuse box (fuse #1 with fuse tap)

GRAY to front running light switched 12v (scotchlock)

BLACK to ground

 

This is how I have it wired up. Does anything look out of place here? I can't find any wire brakes or obvious shorts.

 

Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

 

Terry

 

[smiller]

Wow Terry I'm beginning to think that you may have a bad cruise control unit there as your wiring looks correct and the operation of the test LED is improper of course. Not really sure what to suggest other than to return the cruise control for a replacement and try again, or see if Audiovox might have a help line. Very sorry to hear about your problem, we were working on exactly the same project so I know how you feel.

 

 

[jjg3]

Is the jumper removed from the servo?

 

With the CC powered and you apply brakes does the brake light illuminate while the LED does not?

 

If at power up the LED illuminates, I believe this is improper. It should only illuminate with the application of power (brake light). Confirm this connection. Maybe connect very near the brake bulb socket. But worse case here, constant power should only not allow the system to function, not fry the coil.

 

I would suggest tying all 3 (red/red-orange/gray) wires that require 12v together and using a single/same power source.

 

Where/to what exactly are you grounding the servo and the control (I would recommend a confirmed frame ground, not a mid-wire ground)?

 

Where along the coil black wire did you scotchlock into it? I went to the black wire maybe an inch below the 2-wire connector at the coil.

 

Not being able to see it, it sounds as though the tap to the coil may be powering the coil when the key is on. You can disconnect the blue wire and the system should still give you all the indications of a functioning unit except that it will not hold the throttle. So the switch should be lit, when you press the 'on' button the little 'on' light should illuminate, when you apply brakes the LED should illuminate.. the blue wire need not be connected to check these. So you can work those out first, and when working, then do the blue wire thing.

 

If you have someone available to take a look at it, I would advise you allow them to look at the instructions, see what you've done, without explanation other than to point out components, to see if they see it the same way you do.. a second set of eyes never hurts.

If a second set of eyes connects the dots as you have, then maybe it is a bad CC servo.

 

[RTRay]

Yes, the jumper is removed from the servo.

 

When the CC is powered up the brake light does illuminate when either brake is applied but the servo light does not.

 

When I remove the blue wire from the coil it does not get hot.

 

The gray 12v wire is scotchlocked onto the front running light/turn signal hot line. The orange is on the #1 fuse with a fuse tap. The red runs to a waterproof fuse box under back seat that is used to also power my Autocom and driving lights. They all work fine.

 

The servo is grounded to a bolt on the side of the frame. The control is grounded to a bolt on the front of the frame. This is the same ground location that I use for the driving lights.

 

The coil wire is scotchlocked about 3" below the coil.

 

I have tested the servo without the coil wire hooked up and it still performs as described before.

 

Thanks for you help----I'm going to go back out in the garage and scratch my head some more!

 

Terry

[RTRay]

After much head scratching I decided to take all the wire connections loose and reconnect everything with new scotchlocks. After doing this the unit powers up normally. The red light comes on only when pressing the brake. I have not reconnected the coil wire yet to see if it heats up. I'll try that in the morning.

 

I think that the line to the brake light was not making a good connection, so the servo must have been grounding itself out through the coil instead. I'm no electrician but this is just my uneducated guess.

 

Terry

[smiller]

I really would lose the Scotchlocks, they are bad news. Use a crimp connector or solder and shrink tubing.

[RTRay]

I agree---each one I have used has been a pain in the rear. They are simple to put on but they don't always work well. Once I'm sure this all works I'll replace them with crimp connectors.

 

Terry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Wanderer99]

I wouldnt modify the bowden box and the other part of the hand grip is for a throttle close cable can't modify that either. I am interested in installing cruise on my oil head GS didnt see throtle cables in the audiovox kit any body know of a kit to buy to use on a bike that needs two actuator cables. Also I am a tech in Darien if your close and need a little help.

[RTRay]

I went ahead and took the coil off the RT this morning--it was fully cooked! It over heated to the point the back cracked. I'm sure that since the purple line to the tail light didn't actually connect and make the ground, the coil line must have done it instead and cooked it well done. Another is on the way from Bob's BMW.

 

Everything else seems to have worked fine so far and I'm looking forward to seeing how the throttle cable splitter actually works out on the road.

 

Terry

[smiller]

I went ahead and took the coil off the RT this morning--it was fully cooked!

Yeah, was afraid of that... once you let the smoke out they're no good anymore.

 

When you get the new one make sure you have a voltmeter connected across the coil input terminals when you reconnect the blue wire... if you see constant power then disconnect it right away. We don't want to enrich Bob's BMW too much...

[RTRay]

I tell you--this thing was well done! Looking at it from the top you would think it was fine, but once I felt the bottom I could tell it was toast. Here's a pic of it:

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/south.terry/R1100RTCruiseControl#5246378974577059634

 

I'll definitely test the current before hooking up the other one.

Bob doesn't need any more $ from me! If I could have seen that the scotchlock on the brake wire was screwed up this wouldn't have happened.

 

Terry

[RTRay]

Now I am to the point of putting in the new coil.

 

When I hook up the entire CC system and don't have the coil plugged in place, I test the coil plug wires and get 12v coming through. Is this normal? I assume that the coil wires should show a 12v reading with the key turned on. Is that correct, or am I not looking at this right?

 

I don't see any difference with the CC system turned on and the BLUE lead attached to the BLACK coil wire. The coil wires still read 12v. I assume that this is what I want.

 

If any of this seems messed up let me know!

 

Thanks,

Terry

[RTRay]

Finally the CCS-100 is installed and had been test driven up to 70 mph. It seems to run well and keeps the speed within about +/- 2 mph going up and down gentle hills. I used the speed settings for the low weight/high HP vehicle and the cruise engages so smoothly that you don't feel it at all. Just turn it on, get to the speed that you want and push set. Hold the throttle for 3 seconds and then let off. The cruise keeps you right there!

 

Thanks to everyone who helped with the install!! Roy Bertalotto, Wally Ryno, smiller and jjg3 were invaluable!! THANKS!!!!

 

Picks of the install with the TB splitter are on my Goggle site.

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/south.terry

 

Terry