Fernando, why did you leave us so, well, Autocom void?

[Firefight911]

I'm just sayin'!

 

Here's the deal -

 

Several months back, I purchased everything (famous last words) that I needed to finally be done with the Baehr comms I have suffered with for the last 4+ years. Of course, up and down assurances that I had every cable need to complete the install.

 

I finally got around to installing everything yesterday and today on the K13GT. The Centech fuse block, Gerbing connections x 2, the Garmin Zumo 550, and the B2B . . .

 

Well, not so fast! As it turns out, I am missing a cable. See, there really is no one as good as Fernando at this stuff!!!! And, I bought everything from Brown's!!! Unfortuantely, Fernando had already moved on to his new gig with Gerbing's. Oh well, stuff happens!

 

Here's what I need to know -

 

I have the Autocom Active Plus (Kit 200) that is running through the Part 1457 PTT interface to a Kenwood Freetalk XLS TK-3131. The cable I don't have is the interface cable from the 1457 to the Kenwood Freetalk.

 

Which cable do I need to finish this install. So far, the GPS works great, as does the XM, etc. I just want to get the B2B wrapped up so I can button up the GT once and for all.

 

Ya know, there was a time when I lived to do this farkling. Not so much anymore. I just wanna ride!

 

The 2 dealers I have called have been help challenged and couldn't answer my question so I come to you to resolve this final part dilemma.

 

Thanks in advance for a simple question! Hopefully, someone will have the cable I need, well, actually 2 cables as I need to install Jamie's duplicate set up also, in stock so it is a quick deal to install and button things up.

[Tony_K]

You're gonna need a Gerbing's heat troller to make it all come together... didn't you know that!?

[Firefight911]

You're gonna need a Gerbing's heat troller to make it all come together... didn't you know that!?

 

I've got that!!

[Tony_K]

Hook it up then!!!

Effbee will set ya straight, I'm sure.

[Woodie]

That cable is the same one you'd use to connect the Freetalk directly to the Autocom. Does the radio have the same interface as the rest of the Kenwoods?

[EffBee]

One of the things that helped me be useful in setting up Autocom systems was my daily exposure to them at the BMW dealership. Having been away from there for 10 months so far, I've lost a lot of the immediate knowledge. However, let me give it a try. If I'm wrong, there are plenty of people on this board who will correct me, including the very knowledgeable John Bentall and of course, Mr. Autocom himself, Tom Beman.

 

As I recall, there were two different cables that were used to connect from the PTT switch (1457) to a Kenwood. 1430 and 1431 were the part numbers. One was a straight cable and one was a coiled cable. Can't recall which was which any more.

 

I understand these cables may be hard to come by in the U.S. I might have a spare one at home, although I'm not sure. If I do, I can loan it to you if you can't locate one. PM me with the shipping info if you need one. I'll check tonight when I get home to the opulence of Chez EffBee.

 

In the meantime, if there's anything you want to know about Gerbings, let me know. As a side note, I'm getting pretty decent at riding in the rain.

 

Gonna miss you all at Torrey, dagnabbit. But I'm gonna be there in the Fall.

 

[John Bentall]

One of the things that helped me be useful in setting up Autocom systems was my daily exposure to them at the BMW dealership. Having been away from

As I recall, there were two different cables that were used to connect from the PTT switch (1457) to a Kenwood. 1430 and 1431 were the part numbers. One was a straight cable and one was a coiled cable. Can't recall which was which any more.

 

As Fernando says #1429 is a 6" straight interface lead, # 1430 is a long, 3' straight interface lead and a #1431 is a coiled interface lead (unsure whether short or long)

Hope this helps,

 

John

[allikanbe]

Hey, Since we are on a "help" thread, is it possible to use a PTT switch and a "battery eliminator" (I forget the number of it) at the same time on a Kenwood 3101? Seems that it would not be possible since they both plug in to the same place. But, I would like to have both.

[Tom B]

Part 2388 (was part 1457) has a grey 5 pin plug that plugs into your grey lead on your system and a grey 5 pin socket that you plug your bike to bike interface lead. It then has a long lead with the PTT on the end and provides remote switching between VOX mode and PTT mode.

 

Many people use this part mainly for rider to passenger privacy, so that they can speak freely to each other without it being VOX broadcast to other bikes, which means that the other bikes do not suffer from you radio jamming while you are speaking between you and your passenger and so can continue talking bike to bike between the other bikes while you and you passenger chat away.

 

It also means that you will be able to hear the other bikes speaking so if someone says something important you can either press the PTT button for a quick short reply, or toggle back to hands free VOX transmit, which is particularly useful if you are in busy traffic and need to use your left hand for clutch, indicators, horn etc

 

Yes it can be used at the same time as the battery eliminator

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

[Firefight911]

Clipping the helmet leads will cause no problems will it? I am using in ear speaker (AzAl's) so I don't need them.

Simple clip and cover the bare ends or do I need to do more?

[EffBee]

Clipping the helmet leads will cause no problems will it? I am using in ear speaker (AzAl's) so I don't need them.

Simple clip and cover the bare ends or do I need to do more?

That's how I have my headset set up. But don't just clip the leads and heat shrink them. After you clip the speakers off, take the leads and split the wires about 1/4" Fold back one of the wires. THEN put a piece of heat shrink over them. This will ensure that under the heat shrink, the bare wire ends will never touch.

[Firefight911]

Clipping the helmet leads will cause no problems will it? I am using in ear speaker (AzAl's) so I don't need them.

Simple clip and cover the bare ends or do I need to do more?

That's how I have my headset set up. But don't just clip the leads and heat shrink them. After you clip the speakers off, take the leads and split the wires about 1/4" Fold back one of the wires. THEN put a piece of heat shrink over them. This will ensure that under the heat shrink, the bare wire ends will never touch.

 

 

Thanks Fernando!! I just need to order my radio interface leads when Brown's opens tomorrow and all will be right with the world!

[Firefight911]

Just wanted to post that with this site's help, etc. I have a fully functional and working Autocom set up.

 

I have to say that after suffering miserably for the last 5 years with my other system, I am blown away with the ease and quickness of integrating the system on my K1300GT.

 

Thanks for the help!! And now, the rest of the story . . .

 

Since I am running the Kit 200 with Zumo 550, I am wanting to complete this package for my phone use. At this time, I can only hear calls, but can not speak.

 

Is it the part #1273 dongle that I need?

 

This goes to Aux 1 and I pair the phone to the Zumo, with the Zumo paired to the dongle, right? This in turn retains phone control through the Zumo.

 

The stereo hard wire lead from the Zumo goes to Aux 2?

 

B2B will then be Aux 3?

 

How do I verify that the kit is power enabled on Aux 1?

 

What jumper do I perform to power enable if it is not already done?

 

Zumo settings to Phone only on Bluetooth, right?

 

I have searched the net for these answers. Big mistake!!! Too many variations on the right set up so I knew to come here for the final answer. Plus, the Autocom site no longer supports the "old" systems.

 

Thanks again everyone! I'm gonna run out and get some pics of the set up installed and post them so you can see what I did. Back in a few.

[johnlt]

Phil, I believe I used the 1298 lead set and it works great. This means that my phone is BT to the Zumo but hard wired from the Zumo to the Autocom. Making and receiving calls works fine. I can make calls either through my phone book that shows up on the zumo or via voice commands. Both ways work fine. One of my pet peeves of Autocom is that they do not attach nomenclature labels on any of their leads so once they are installed, I can't tell which one is which. I guess I should have labeled them myself when I removed them from their package. Live & learn!

[Firefight911]

I like this idea a lot. I thought of this after I posted my above post. It would sure be easier and cheaper this route.

 

Do you recall what went where in terms of mic wire to Aux ___? Stereo lead to Aux ___? B2B lead to Aux ___?

[johnlt]

PM sent. I also need to make one correction. It was part 1299 not 1298.

[Firefight911]

Here's the post to show that install. I put it in K bikes as the install is bike specific beyond this discussion f general Autocom stuff.

 

LINKY

 

 

[AdventurePoser]

Clipping the helmet leads will cause no problems will it? I am using in ear speaker (AzAl's) so I don't need them.

Simple clip and cover the bare ends or do I need to do more?

That's how I have my headset set up. But don't just clip the leads and heat shrink them. After you clip the speakers off, take the leads and split the wires about 1/4" Fold back one of the wires. THEN put a piece of heat shrink over them. This will ensure that under the heat shrink, the bare wire ends will never touch.

 

I found this out the hard way....when those wires touch it sounds like you have a horde of bees buzzing in your ear!

 

Steve

[Firefight911]

Hmmmm, this is now getting interesting!!!

 

Supposedly, the 1299 is no longer made? This is per one of the dealers I called. Additonally, no one has one.

 

I am being told my only option is the 1273 BT dongle. This creates another issue. I am using the Active-Plus which is not power enabled on Aux 1.

 

What the heck!!??

 

Before I go long walk short pier, any help out there on what I should do? I would really prefer to just hard wire and BT the phone to the Zumo and be done with it.

 

I do not want to have to uninstall the unit just to jumper something if at all possible. PITA!!!

[John Bentall]

I am being told my only option is the 1273 BT dongle.

 

Absolute rubbish - there is bike powered version of the 1273 called the 1276.

 

The 1299 was not popular for the reasons stated in my PM to you.

 

John

[johnlt]

I'm showing the 1299 still availble for sale on the autocom website. Look here

[John Bentall]

I'm showing the 1299 still availble for sale on the autocom website. Look here

 

100% agreed, John. But if one calls or e-mails Autocom they should steer the prospective customer towards the 1273/1276 + 1314 solution for connecting the Zumo 550 to a 2006-series main unit. The 1299 works, but is not a preferred solution. I am glad that is working well for you.

[Firefight911]

OK. Define "bike powered" for me. Run a lead off the unit to the same source powering my Autocom? Or something else?

 

We're maybe getting there, I hope. I also certainly hope the US will be getting some form of distrbutor support soon. It's becoming increasingly difficult to get dealer help at this point!

[SteveMc]

Phil, I recently bluetoothed my phone to the Zumo using part 1276.

If this link works, you can scroll down and see it here .

 

The instructions tell you to pick up power from the power lead to the Autocomm.

[Firefight911]

Phil, I recently bluetoothed my phone to the Zumo using part 1276.

If this link works, you can scroll down and see it here .

 

The instructions tell you to pick up power from the power lead to the Autocomm.

 

Thanks for this! I found a 1276 in Marin. I ride out tomorrow to pick it up and will then be able to complete the set up.

 

Thanks!!

[Firefight911]

We just got back after a nice 300 mile loop.

 

Got the 1276. Not only did we get it, but Gary, employee of Marin BMW, came out and helped install it right there on the spot!! It works beautifully.

 

Thanks for the help everyone. I am in business. Now, back to the long ride plans . . .