Installing HyperLites (on an 09 RT) for Dummies

[FLrider]

I would like to thank the guys on the hexhead forum, http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=487630#Post487630 including Shuan09 who pm’d me with his advice, for helping me with some wiring questions. I am electronically challenged and their assistance helped me complete this project.

 

I suspect for many forum members this is an elementary project and my post may be laughable, however, there are guys like me who are new to the BMW electronics world and could use a little guidance. This post is for them.

 

So, this goes to prove that if I can do it anyone can do this project. It truly is a very simple project and the hyperlites kit makes it very easy. I chose this kit because unlike some of the other LED flasher's, I have not seen any negative comments impacting the CANbus system using hyperlites.

 

First, remove the license plate tag and a mounting hardware. Drill two 1/8” holes into the fender behind the area hidden by the license plate. You are going to use these holes to route the LED light wires through and behind the fender and into the taillight housing area under the seat.

 

 

Next, remove the two screws securing the clear lens to the taillight assembly frame. The instructions suggest you allow the taillight to hang gently by the wires. I used painters’ tape to wrap the light to the taillight frame to relieve any pressure on the wires and connectors.

 

 

Find the brown wire (-) and gray wire with a yellow stripe (+) that connects to the brake light.

 

 

Using the posi taps that are in your kit, tap into those two wires and feed the black and red wires from the module into the posi taps. I love those posi taps. No crimping, no muss, no fuss.

 

 

Next, secure the adhesive lined LED lights to the fender. You have several choices here. You can either attach them to the red reflectors on the fender or spend $8 for a bracket that hyperlites sells and secure the LED lights to that bracket.

 

Personally, if I had to do it all over again I would change two things. I would have purchased the 16 light kit instead of the 8 light kit and I would have mounted the LED lights further down the fender tail. I think the further away the LED lights are from the brake light, the more obvious and visible they are. Just a theory.

 

 

Next, secure the module to a surface behind the taillight assembly or in the taillight assembly itself. Your choice. So far, you have already used the black wire and red wire.

 

 

You're now going to connect the blue wires from the LEDs to the blue wire on the module and the brown wires from the LEDs to the brown wire on the module using the enclosed posi twists. I love those too. Make sure you run the wires from the LEDs through the holes you drilled and up through the taillight assembly. See picture.

 

 

Now it's time to connect to the power. Hyper light's suggests that you use a fuse block to route your positive, negative and trigger lead. If you're not going to use a fuse block, they recommend that you connect the gray wire from the module directly to the alarm green/white wire.

 

I purchased the fuzeblock brand of fuse block and plan to route as many electrical gizmos as possible through that in order to avoid as many CANbus issues as possible.

 

 

I ran the positive and negative module wires to the fuzeblock, ran a lead from the fuzeblock trigger and tapped into the green white alarm wire using a posi tap. I used Velcro to secure the fuzeblock to the fender.

 

 

I then ran wires from the fuzeblock to the corresponding battery terminals. Note that the picture shows a "black" wire connecting to the switched lead on the Fuzeblock. It's actually tapped into the "brown" ground of the module. I just didn't have any extra brown wire . Also note that the picture says "any trigger lead". In this application is would be any 'switched' trigger wire connecting to the "switched" side of the fuzeblock. In another application you could connect a "constant" trigger lead to the "constant" side of the fuzeblock.

 

Now all you have to do is check all of your wiring, turn the key to on and hit your brakes.

 

It should look like this:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/theotherline/3637354544/in/photostream/

 

The instructions in the kit are very good although they don’t mention having to connect the module brown wire to a ground on either the fuzeblock or battery.

 

If you have any questions, pm me or post. Good Luck.

 

[krussell]

Really nice post. Thanks for taking the time to share the details and the photos.

[FLrider]

Really nice post. Thanks for taking the time to share the details and the photos.

 

....and thank you for the assist!!

[Ken H.]

I suspect for many forum members this is an elementary project and my post may be laughable,

Not necessarly true, we can all learn.

 

Nicely done. The post and the work!

[10ovr]

Nice job,,I use the same fuze block,I made a plate for my fuze block that bolts on where the shock adjuster would have been with out ESA,,Fuze block bolts to the plate,,,Plate bolts to bike,,Nice and solid and you can run your wires by the frame,,,Makes it nice and clean,,

[BarOne]

Outstanding! Thanks.