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Verholen peg lowering kit


scottgr

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Does anyone have good instructions and/or pictures for installing the Verholen adjustable rider peg lowering kit on an 1150rt? The [english] instructions included were completely useless and of course contained no pictures or drawings (which they wouldn't need to translate!)

 

Thanks

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I installed mine many years ago, so this is totally from memory. The Verholen unit was an exact drop in replacement. The Verholen bracket just lowered the mounting point of the footrest. Instead of going through the two holes, the footrest will now go through the Verholen piece.

 

An exploded view of all the pieces involved may be helpful. You can find it HERE

 

Go to the link, then click on "46-Frame Fairing" and then scroll to "Diagram 46_308" I can't give a direct link to it, but it's easy to find. Just take notes as you disassemble the pieces.

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Yes the instructions are useless. Just did my kit about a month ago and is still fresh in my mind. What instruction do you need? The foot pegs,the shifter,the brake pedal? I can try to help you out through email. This thread would get kinda long. Here's two images of the installed footpeg if that helps

DSCN1996.jpg

DSCN1995.jpg

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der Wanderer

So... I am still not understanding if there is a specific reason to choose the Verholen kit as compared to the Suburban Machinery one? Is there an advantage to the Verholen kit? It seems to be a bit more expensive, it's made in Germany vs. made in the US (I don't really mind either way). I did not know of Verholen when I bought the Suburban kit so I did not do in depth comparison but it does the trick for me :)

Am I missing something?

FWIW, I had a question on the install of the Suburban kit and got instant support from them.

Of course, I own no interest in either company.

 

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der Wanderer

It's rather obvious, but the way I did the install on the Suburban is:

- removed c-clip (with small screwdriver blade)

- gently removed the plastic cap (do not break it); I believe I started pushing the stainless axis up to do that

- removed the spring

- removed the stainless axis

- removed the peg

- the peg has a metallic bracket on the internal side; I removed it as it would have interfered with the kit

- on the workbench, positioned the foot peg in the extender and secured it

- on the bike, greased and pushed the stainless axis in place, positioned the spring and cap, and put the c-clip on

- that is it...

The Verholen could be different in design. YMMV

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The only advantage is that my kit came with a new brake master cyl. rod and shifter arm so both of them can also be lowered the same amount as the footpegs. I don't know if all the kits are the same or not. Mine was purchased on evil-bay from A&S BMW but i never saw one listed on their website for an 1150RT. I don't know which kit is the best. This is just the one i liked. You can see a little bit of the lowered shifter in the top photo towards the left

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I bought mine from A&S on eBay also. It's the newer style two-piece adjustable kit, with the lowered shift lever and shorter plunger for the brake.

 

One bracket simply replaces the footpeg using a shorter pin secured with a circlip. The second bracket attaches to the footpeg and then is bolted to the first piece with a larger bolt that allows it to pivot around in an arc. Hence the 'adjustable'.

 

It's the bottom bracket that is giving me some difficulty. The pin is too short to use the plastic cup that holds the spring in place, so I tried a small washer which didn't work very well. There's also a long set screw that I assumed was to hold the end of the spring when under tension, but it's too short and the spring end slips over it.

 

I know a picture is worth a 1000 words, but I can't view or upload pictures here at work. I'll snap some pics at home tonight.

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If you take note to my picture above,i used a regular allen head bolt to hold the spring in place. The head won't allow the spring to slip down past the end of the bolt. You can use the plastic cup but first you have to sand,file or cut the angled part of the cup down so its flat instead of angled. The pin will work once you cut the cup flat and you will have enough room to get the circlip on the pin. Hope this helps

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