KDeline Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 These are older units, PRO-7 and a older XM unit. All works with a battery powered MP3 player but when I hook up a bike powered XM player I get the engine whine and some other fun static so I am thinking this is the ground loop effect I have read about here. I am using all Autocom wires so my question is how do I get rid of it? Also I need to lower the volume as the receiver doe's not lower it enough, I can get a inline volume control at Radio shack but since it is not a Autocom hardened wire will I just get static back assuming I can get rid of it in the first place? I bow to your wisdom........ Link to comment
John Bentall Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 You need autocom part #2254 - single stereo isolation adapter (note that this is the latest 2009 part number). A volume control will not introduce static unless it bike-powered. Link to comment
Jazzy Posted September 6, 2009 Share Posted September 6, 2009 On the older Pro-7, I believe you need the #1314 lead. I sure wish Autocom would put the isolation "IN THE BOX" rather than buying a lot of other pricey boxes and cables as is required. Add anything to the bike's 12-volt supply (radar, gps, cell, Mp3 player, etc), and you need another BOX and more cable space eaten up. The space near my PRO-AVI has got so many cables and extra Autocom boxes my recent dealer threatened to charge me more to find the bike under it all. Since another dealer installed it, he waved the extra charge but said he's glad he doesn't install Autocom's for a living. Dealer in Santa Cruz, CA quit Autocom several years ago. To complex and too many comebacks (ground-loops and wiring delays for more isolation boxes). One of his techs spent two days installing the PRO-AVI and still screwed it up (G-L and wrong lead tips). It really does need to be simplified where a 80-year old man who cannot set his VCR or wrist watch could do it, much less some $90/hr. tech. chasing a ground-loop. The single HDMI cable on TV's got rid of all the in-out cables, S-videos, and whatever else. Yay! Jazzy Link to comment
John Bentall Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Jazzy is absolutely correct that the #1314 will do the trick. You will have to run that wire between the XM and the Autocom (which is in the tailcone for all I know). Using the #2254 you will have to plug this little unit in between the end of your existing cable run and the Autocom unit. The equivalent 2008 part number would have been #1281. Link to comment
KDeline Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 On the older Pro-7, I believe you need the #1314 lead. I sure wish Autocom would put the isolation "IN THE BOX" rather than buying a lot of other pricey boxes and cables as is required. Add anything to the bike's 12-volt supply (radar, gps, cell, Mp3 player, etc), and you need another BOX and more cable space eaten up. The space near my PRO-AVI has got so many cables and extra Autocom boxes my recent dealer threatened to charge me more to find the bike under it all. Since another dealer installed it, he waved the extra charge but said he's glad he doesn't install Autocom's for a living. Dealer in Santa Cruz, CA quit Autocom several years ago. To complex and too many comebacks (ground-loops and wiring delays for more isolation boxes). One of his techs spent two days installing the PRO-AVI and still screwed it up (G-L and wrong lead tips). It really does need to be simplified where a 80-year old man who cannot set his VCR or wrist watch could do it, much less some $90/hr. tech. chasing a ground-loop. The single HDMI cable on TV's got rid of all the in-out cables, S-videos, and whatever else. Yay! Jazzy You have read my mind, I was thinking "Great another cable". If Autocom Tom had not been so good to me in the past I would have tossed this long ago. I know a lot of people here love them, but I am only luke warm with it. To much fooling around to get them to work right. I seem to always be tinkering with it but for the most part it doe's work. BTW the unit and all the cable's, Kenwood, etc are in the tank bag so it's easy enough to get to. Just have no room in the bag for anything else. Link to comment
Kinsley Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 I have everything in the tank bag as well and it does take up too much space. I may also need to add one of these part numbers as we seem to be getting a lot of clicking, not VOX mic activation, but a popping. Anyway, it's bothersome and I don't know if I would be better off getting a new unit or adding to the existing setup. Link to comment
KDeline Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 I may also need to add one of these part numbers as we seem to be getting a lot of clicking, not VOX mic activation, but a popping. FWIW I am getting for the most part a whine that matches engine speed, don't know if yours is the same. Doe's it go away when you disconnect the bike powered music? Link to comment
Kinsley Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 I may also need to add one of these part numbers as we seem to be getting a lot of clicking, not VOX mic activation, but a popping. FWIW I am getting for the most part a whine that matches engine speed, don't know if yours is the same. Doe's it go away when you disconnect the bike powered music? My noise is not the same and I don't have bike powered music (I use an iPod), but I'm thinking something is adding some interference, static, or something. I'm not a wizard at this electronic stuff, but I have a problem somewhere. Link to comment
KDeline Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 My noise is not the same and I don't have bike powered music (I use an iPod), but I'm thinking something is adding some interference, static, or something. I'm not a wizard at this electronic stuff, but I have a problem somewhere. Unplug one thing at a time till the noise goes away. Link to comment
KMG_365 Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I've got GMRS, V-1, and XM SkyFi radio wired into my older AutoCom--all behind the Tupperware (we each only have one bike). It took me a few days with Sean's help, but it's been working for 150,000 miles now. I bought the Radio Shack GLI's (about the size of a D cell battery), chopped the RCA plugs off the ends and soldered them in-line. I still get a very slight alternator whine (even though I've got the shielded "authority coil" on my 03) when the music's off and when going slow I can hear a slight whine from the HyperLites that goes off when I put on the signal. Neither are so objectionable that I'll bother chasing them down or adding more GLI's. Though when we upgraded to the air tubes I didn't realize the fidelity I was missing (wow, BASS!! ). Now I like the music more, but at 80 mph with the music going I don't notice or care about the whine. If I did more slow speed stuff, I'd probably be annoyed by the whine and fix it. Leslie has the same problem with volume as you. We use ArizonaAl's new style earplug monitors (air tubes) and she tried the old style Radio Shack (black) rheostat in-line. It was a flimsy piece of crap, would only last a few thousand miles, and couldn't be fixed without some serious re-engineering. They made a new version (white) that lasted a few thousand more, but it also crapped out on the way to New Hampshire last month. Good luck. Link to comment
KDeline Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 I think I am the only one that did not like AA's tube speakers, to much outside/tube noise for me. I might look into the GLI's. Thanks gentlemen. Link to comment
SageRider Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I think I am the only one that did not like AA's tube speakers, to much outside/tube noise for me. I might look into the GLI's. Thanks gentlemen. Tubes must be worn under a jacket. If exposed, they will pick up all sorts of noise from blowing around (and against objects) in the wind. Link to comment
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