external jump start kit / accessory ? (2004 1150 GS)

[Doug 55]

 

Does anyone know the "what and where" of such an item (extended wiring / connection to allow jump start away from the battery terminals) ?

 

Think I hear of it in the past but couldn't readily find it this AM.

 

I always had it in the back of my mind as a nice capability just in case and now, despite recent diagnosis and "fix" (and a < 6 mo.s old batt) my GS has intermittent flat-batt symptoms so, good to be able to get an EZ jump start until that is figured out

[Albert]

When I bought my Battery Tender there were a bunch of extra connections in the kit. One was a set of alligator clips like jumper cables, that have the SAE plug on the other end (see the link below). The jumper piece can be plugged into the same outlet as the Battery Tender if you need a jump.

 

http://www.batterytender.com/

[Firefight911]

There are a couple to choose from at Cyclenutz.com

 

 

[Boffin]

From your local friendly BMW Dealer, Parts 9 - 12 inclusive.

 

Standard fit on late model R1150RT and R1150GS models.

 

Andy

[Peter Parts]

Well yes and no.

 

Some models come with a bracket that extends from the starter solenoid outwards through the plastic case surrounding the starter motor (where it is covered by a nice rubber cap).

 

Or you can buy the pieces for like $10 from BMW (or free from your junk box and you can fit all models) and make your own (since my model, R1100S, doesn't come so equipped). A bit tricky locating the spot to drill the plastic starter motor housing, but a good DIY thrill.

 

This gives you high-power direct access to the batter B+ terminal and would be ideal for jump starting or fast charging.

 

On the other hand, jump starting is really about pumping up the bike's battery for a few minutes rather than sending the full cranking power into the bike. Do the math comparing 10 minutes at say 5 amps with 15 seconds at maybe 20 amps or whatever you think your little alligator clips can handle. There, told ya so.

[Capt'n]

Doug,

 

I have used a battery tender for years on motorcycles, airplanes and cars to save my A_ _ numerous times. I just moved from Vermont which can kill a weak battery is short order and all I would do is plug in the battery tender for an hour or more and way you go, unless you have a really old battery.

 

I can get to the neg terminal under the seat on my 1995 R1100RT but the positive terminal is under the fuel tank and even with alligator clips, I cannot reach the pos terminal.

 

Note, Peter Parts has great a idea that i am going to look into.

Good luck,

 

Capt,n

 

[John Bentall]

Hi Doug,

 

or there is this

 

http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WA&Product_Code=2024568&Category_Code=

 

 

[Peter Parts]

Hi Doug,

 

or there is this

 

http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WA&Product_Code=2024568&Category_Code=

 

 

Thanks for link - never saw this before.

 

Not sure this is in any way better than running a heavy wire from B+ terminal to any convenient spot under the seat and letting booster cables do the rest in an emergency... and saving $100.

 

Basically, I'm with Capt'n. As long as you can charge for a few minutes, you don't need anything additional to the accessory outlet (stock or self-designed or SAE for Gergings). But if you'd like a heavy-duty connection, either the cheap kit from BMW or a heavy wire described above.

 

Might also make sense to develop a good chassis-ground spot for alligator clipping - oddly hard to find one on a modern, well-painted bike.

[Doug 55]

 

Thanks to all who responded; I am getting the bmw kit (or pieces I guess as the parts tech at Bob's understood it) since I am already toting m/c type jumper cables around

[Boffin]

I agree, the way I have always jump-started vehicles is to connect the jumper cables then wait - in the old days I would smoke a cigarette, these days I just twiddle my thimbs for ten minutes or so.

This helps in a few ways, it prevents a totaly dead battery just soaking up the current from the 'donor'. It physically warms up the dead battery, thereby reducing its internal resistance and it reduced the amount of current that the jumper cables need to flow to start the patient.

 

I would advise against having loose-ended cables connected to the battery, the risk of fire if these short to the chassis is too great. Leads with properly terminated or insulated ends would be OK, provided they are routed carefully and secured in such a way as to keep them in the planned position.

 

When I managed to leave the parking lights switched on for two days, BMW recovery (in the UK the same service as cars - true 5*) arrived in a 5-series estate (station wagon) and just plugged a low-current lead between an outlet on the car and the accessory socket ('02 R1150RT). The technician then made us a cup of tea and we chatted for a while. The lead was then disconnected and the bike fired up of its own power.

 

The worst possible approach is to connect up then hit the starter without a pause.

 

Andy