Skene Design P3 Lights Installation and Review

[krussell]

I decided to add P3 lights to my GS Adv for a little more presence to the rear of the bike. I completed the install today, and wanted to post my impressions.

 

First, Skene Design customer service is tops. I placed a web order for the lights at 10:17AM on a weekday. At 10:23AM I had a shipping info. I also had a refund, as they offer $20/rebate to safe riders, either instructors like my self, or students who have recently taken a course. I just emailed a JPG of my instructor credentials, and saved a quick $20. Two days later, I had a box in the mail.

 

That Sunday I set about doing the installation. It was pretty straight forward. The most difficult part of the whole thing was removing my OEM luggage racks for the first time. With the racks out of the way the tail light drops down and you have access to everything you need.

 

I mounted the LEDs on the bottoms of my license plate holder, I wanted the largest triangle I could make with the tail light. The included hardware was all I needed.

 

The kit includes Positap connectors for connecting to the tail light wiring. There is a R1200GS section on the P3 website, and I was using that to figure out the wiring. I was a bit confused about one connection, so I shot off an email. A few minutes later, on Sunday, I had a reply with a clear explanation.

 

On I went, only to discover a bit later that I did not have the right controller. It appeared that I was accidentally sent a controller for a different product. Another email, with another speedy response confirmed I had the wrong controller. Jerry said another controller would be in the mail Monday. It was and arrived a few days later.

 

Bummer! I put everything back together, as I planned to ride before the new controller would arrive. Today, I got back to the installation. There was a note with the replacement controller that had an apology for the mixup. For my trouble they sent me the P3+ version with integral volt meter, nice upgrade.

 

I connected the new controller to the tail light wiring and then connected the LEDs and the controller using the providing crimp connectors. The included wiring is very long, I trimmed everything to suit the GS Adv install.

 

I keyed on the bike, and all was well. I tested the various functions and then put everything back together. I suspect the total install time if I would have had the right controller would have been less than 30 minutes, about 1/2 of that being the luggage racks.

 

The P3 lights are great for BMWs, as they work just fine with Canbus. They are truly plug and play.

 

At startup the P3+ shows you the battery voltage (with key on) by blinking the voltage. This sounded pretty goofy to me, but it works well as shown in the video below.

 

The regular P3 lights have everything but the voltage indication. This includes acting as supplemental tail lights, supplemental brake lights, and emergency flashers. Full details are at www.p3lights.com.

 

The tail light is slightly modulated to be more obvious. The brake light can be a regular brake light, or supports two different modes with attention grabbing flashing when the lights are applied. There are few modes for emergency flashing as well.

 

All of the modes may be programmed by simply turning on the bike and applying the brakes several times corresponding to the function being programmed. A complete list is in the manual. There is a lot of detail that went into the design and packaging, one example is the quick reference card that has the programming codes. Two of these are included, I put one with my manual in the bike, and filed the other.

 

To show how the p3 lights work I posted a quick video at

 

 

It will be clear when you view the video that I'm not a cinematographer.

 

I'm pleased with the installation and operation, I'll be interested to see if I notice anything on the road.

 

The P3 lights are 149.99, the P3+ version with volt meter are 169.99. You can save $20 if you have recently taking rider training or are an instructor.

 

These are a bit more spendy than some of the competitors, but not having to worry about canbus issues was worth it to me.

 

Here are some install pictures:

 

 

The box they come in:

 

 

The complete contents:

 

 

The front of the LED modules:

 

 

 

The back of the LED modules:

 

 

 

Rear view of the mounted module:

 

 

 

Side view of the mounted module:

 

 

Finally, the connections to the tail ligh wiring and the control module location:

 

 

[Alan D]

I installed them on my RT and I'm pleased as well. Good quality farkle.

[SageRider]

One thing I can tell you.

The taillight high frequency pulsation mode is very effective.

I got to follow IrishMike about for quite a few miles with his unit in this mode. It just gets your attention, then gets your attention, then gets your attention.........pretty much continuously.

[Endobob]

Jerry Skene has been a long time BMWBMW Club member here in the DC/Baltimore area and rides a K1200RS. He's an engineer and an electrical wiz! Many of our club members have both his P3 lights on the rear and the Photon Blasters on the front. Both, IMO, are quality products and offer enhanced safety!

 

I was talking with him today at our club/meeting and Tech day. He Plans on going to next years MOA as a vendor if anyone is headed up there after the UnRally this year.

[Deek]

I installed them on my RT and I'm pleased as well. Good quality farkle.

 

Any guidance you can provide before I order the P3 lights for my RT?

 

How complicated was the install? Any difficulty making the electical connections? Did you have to remove a bunch of panels, etc to make the connections? Where did you put the Control Module?

 

Thanks. Always good to get it straight from another RT owner.

[krussell]

Deek,

 

Have a look at the R1200RT instructions at the Skene website if you haven't already...

 

http://www.skenedesign.com/lights/R1200RT.shtml

 

Also, another there is another thread developing on an R1200RT install here:

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=549230#Post549230

 

Good luck!

[Deek]

Forgot to ask about this statement on the P3 web page (under their FAQs):

 

How long does it take to install P3 Lights?

 

A typical installation takes about 30 minutes. On a BMW R1200RT or K12 /K1300GT, an additional wire needs to be run to the parking light, which takes ~ 10 -15 minutes.

 

Since I've got an RT I'm wondering what that is. I suppose I can call the dealer, but I'd rather hear it from someone who's installed the P3 lights on an RT.

 

Thanks.

 

[snod]

I have the P3 LED's installed on my 2000 R1100RT. I used the small brackets that come with the lights. I attached the bracket to the top license plate bolts. The installation was straight forward. The controller went underneath the tail/brake light assembly, and all wire connections are made in the same area. The connectors supplied with the lights are excellent. I sheathed all wires with shrink tube, and ran them under the license plate bracket. I suspect the install took me maybe an hour, tops. The instructions were complete and explained everything well. I am very pleased with the results. The tail and brake lights are both visible in full sunlight, unlike the Hyper-Lights. With the 1200RT you have CANBUS issues to consider, so my experience may not be relevant.

 

[krussell]

With the 1200RT you have CANBUS issues to consider, so my experience may not be relevant.

 

The P3 lights controller is specifically designed to NOT cause any canbus problems.

[jskene]

...., an additional wire needs to be run to the parking light, which takes ~ 10 -15 minutes.

 

Since I've got an RT I'm wondering what that is.....

 

On your RT, BMW uses two single filament brake light bulbs, rather than the more normal dual filament tail/brake light bulbs that everyone else uses. In tail light mode, they run reduced power to the single wire going to each bulb. When the brakes are applied, this is increased to full power, and the bulbs light up at normal brake light brightness.

 

So, there is no tail light wire, and no constant source of switched power for the P3 Lights control module. The module instead gets its power from the front parking light. This wire can easily be routed inside the right fairing, with no need to remove any tupperware. As Kevin pointed out, there is a web page devoted to this here:

http://www.skenedesign.com/lights/R1200RT.shtml

 

Also, help is always available at:

 

support@p3lights.com

 

[Deek]

Thanks for the added explanations and links. I have been looking at the P3 light installation instructions, and this part has me confused I guess:

"..R1200RT:

Next, locate the headlight connector on the rear wall of the R1200RT headlight shell. This is slightly to the right of the center of the motorcycle and has several wires going into it. It can be removed by pushing down on the plastic tab on its upper side and unplugging it. Attach another gray/red Positap connector to either of the two blue/white or blue/gray parking light wires as shown in the photo below (photo shows older type T-tap).

..."

 

I don't want to remove tupperware, I've never done that and I'm a bit intimidated by doing that. Well, I am also very lazy! I can't figure out what they mean by the location at the headlight shell. Sounds like something has to be taken apart? Am I correct that Hyperlights do not require connecting anything to that point, or 12 vdc another point not at the tail/brake light area? I think I prefer the P3 over the Hyper, but not if I have to dig around under the skin of my RT!

[Deek]

...., an additional wire needs to be run to the parking light, which takes ~ 10 -15 minutes.

 

Since I've got an RT I'm wondering what that is.....

 

On your RT.....there is no tail light wire, and no constant source of switched power for the P3 Lights control module. The module instead gets its power from the front parking light. .....

 

Another idea....could I tap into the rear accessory power-port on my RT instead of using the headlight power source? Both are switched I know, but the power-port only would retain power via the CanBus system for a few minutes, right? I don't see that as a big problem, the accessory "running light" would just be "on" for those few minutes, right?

 

EDITED: Sorry, I found this at the P3 site just now......Alternate Connection Point - R & K bikes On both the R and K series bikes, an alternative connection point for the RED wire on the P3 Lights controller is the auxiliary power outlet under the seat. While this connection point is easier to access, the P3 Lights will stay on for ~ 90 seconds after you power off your motorcycle. Also, the P3 Lights will not come on with your parking lights, and so the emergency flasher feature cannot be used when your parking lights are turned on.....

 

Even after reading that part above, it doesn't look like such a big deal to me. My BMW has emergency flashers already. Looks like I would lose the P3 emergency flasher capability, but only if the ignition were off and the parking light is on? Correct? If the motorcycle were running, I'm thinking I'd still have the P3 emergency flasher, but I suppose I'd need to contact P3 to be sure.

 

I had started to look at the Hyperlights as I thought there would be an easier install, but they do not list a BMW R-RT kit so I suspect they have issues also with my model motorcycle. But since they do not have the emergency flasher option perhaps this is not an issue. They do cost less than the P3s.

 

Thanks for the help guys.

[krussell]

More details on getting power from the rear accessory outlet are at:

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=301750&page=1

 

Your assumptions about the flasher mode seem correct to me. The big loss is being able to run the flasher with just the parking light on. That would save a lot of power compared to having the key on.

[Deek]

More details on getting power from the rear accessory outlet are at:

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=301750&page=1

 

Your assumptions about the flasher mode seem correct to me. The big loss is being able to run the flasher with just the parking light on. That would save a lot of power compared to having the key on.

 

You are right of course about saving power with the engine shut off. But I have only used my (stock) 4-way flashers a few times in the 18 months I've had this bike, and in each case the engine was running. But I may do some digging around and see if I can figure out how to tap into that parking light wire, it seems smart to rig up the P3 correctly so I could use its emergency flasher mode. It's not clear to me how that's done without having the motorcycle in front of me with some good directions.

[jskene]

The parking light wire is very easy to get at on this bike. No tupperware needs to be removed, and no tools are needed.

 

You reach into the headlight area in the right side, press the locking tab down on the headlight wiring connector, and pull it off. You then install one of the three Positap connectors that come in the kit, as shown in the photo on this page:

 

http://skenedesign.com/lights/R1200RT.shtml

 

Connect one end of the black extension wire that comes with the kit to this, then thread the wire back under the seat, inside the right side fairing. This can be done in ~ 2 minutes using a coat hanger or small wooden dowel. The other end of the wire connects to the P3 controller's red wire, using the PosiLock connector, also included in the kit.

 

Installation on the RT takes only a few minutes more than on other BMW models.

 

If you prefer not to use the parking light, another place to access switched power, in addition to the auxiliary power plug, is the Green/Blue wire in the round diagnostic connector under the rear seat. This goes off with the ignition, and, like the auxiliary power connection, is not associated with the parking light, so the emergency flash feature of the P3 Lights can only be used when the ignition is on.

 

 

Note: we now offer a $20 rebate to recent graduates of a recognized motorcycle safety course, and to all motorcycle safety instructors.

 

 

 

 

 

[Raven]

Installed the P3's that have the turn signals and voltage meter, to my '09 GSA and find that I am getting a Lamp Failure fault. when I turn the key on the P3's work and within five seconds they cut out as well as my license plate LED's from the taillight. Then the lamp failure shows up on the dash. I do have the factory LED taillight. I went over all my connections and the seem good. I hooked the wires main wires two the three wires for my taillight assembly. The instructions show no change in the install procedure except for the '11 and newer where the main power is drawn from the green wire going to the alarm connector.

When I called Skene he suggested I do the same for my '09. Just looking at it, the thirty minute job turns into a couple hours if I now have to undo my rack and remove the top plate to get to the green alarm wire. Does the '09 even have that wire? Did anyone else with an '09 GSA run into the same issue? Any help is greatly appreciated before I dig into this and remind myself why nothing involving electrics is ever smooth or as easy as plugging in a toaster.

 

Thanks ,

Raven

[Raven]

Got it sorted. I did end up having to tap the green alarm wire for power like on the 2011's.

[sdpc2]

Has anyone had an issue with their Skene P3's where the lights alternated between the left and the right light as you are driving down the road?

 

I have been having this issue for several month's on my R1100GS. I thought that since i was using the parking light as a source of power for both my Skene's and to trip the relay on my aux fuse box, that this may have been the problem. However, while riding with a friend this past weekend, he mentioned that they were still doing it. I really like these lights, but am frustrated by this problem.

 

TIA

 

[Paul Mihalka]

Did you get in touch with Jerry Skeene? I don't think you'll find better customer service than him.

[mneblett]

Did you get in touch with Jerry Skeene? I don't think you'll find better customer service than him.

+1 I've met Jerry Skene at rallies, and he really wants to take care of his customers. I had a red LED cluster arrive with 3 of the 12 LEDs OA, and he handled it asap.

[George S.]

Has anyone else had any trouble with the P3 custom settings? I could not get the conspicuosity (sp?)flicker to turn off. I had no trouble playing around and setting other settings on and off, so I'm confident it's not me. Jerry emailed me back and basically said "it can't be the unit since everything else works, just keep trying." Still no luck. It doesn't bother me all that much, but just wondering if anyone else had trouble with the settings?

[racer7]

Another possible power source for the RT for P3s or a fuse panel that is in the rear, under the seat and goes on/off with the key is the input side of the coil for the starter system relay. It sits in that little cube next to the diagnostic connector.

You can fit a a posi connector in there and that wire is physically a bit stronger than the diagnostic wire- which is why I use it