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14kmtnman

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Can I run a new Gerbings jacket & gloves off of the built in side electrical outlet on my 1150rt? I just got the controller tonight, tired everything at the dealer, got on the bike, blocks down the road & noticed nothing. No heat, no lights on the controller. Probably a blown fuse? Or am I going to have to hook everything up directly to the battery?

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I think you are best off going directly to the battery using the fused harness furnished by Gerbings. The current carrying capacity of the outlets is somewhat limited but will usually handle a vest or liner alone. Not sure about multiple items.

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14kmtnman, yes you should be able to run a liner & gloves off the OEM accessory socket..

 

Check your #3 fuse in the under seat fuse box.. It is probably blown.. That fuse should be a 15 amp fuse but for some reason some of the 1150’s came with a 10 amp in that cavity.. If it is/was a 10 amp it will blow at low idle with a liner & glove load on full..

 

 

Twisty

 

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Ok - so I checked the fuse, blowen, installed a 10 & blew that with the jacket & gloves. I unhooked everything then I put in a 15 and ohm tested the gloves, the portable controller & the jacket. I then hooked up the gloves on their own, no problems. Hooked up the jacket & maybe 10-15 seconds poof went the fuse. Looks a short in the jacket. I will head back to the dealer tomorrow after work and try a different jacket. If they have the correct size.

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Why in theory yes you should be able to run it all off the socket, in reality most of us have found it be far simpler and reliable to do direct (fused of course) connections to the battery. Or better still an aftermarket power distribution block. Dangle the Gerbing coaxial lead out the side, and your good to quickly connect and go.

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Why in theory yes you should be able to run it all off the socket, in reality most of us have found it be far simpler and reliable to do direct (fused of course) connections to the battery. Or better still an aftermarket power distribution block. Dangle the Gerbing coaxial lead out the side, and your good to quickly connect and go.

 

On all my bikes before my R1200RT including a 250 dual sport, I've tpyically used an SAE connector, then I could power my jacket or charge my battery with the same connector.

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Why in theory yes you should be able to run it all off the socket, in reality most of us have found it be far simpler and reliable to do direct (fused of course) connections to the battery. Or better still an aftermarket power distribution block. Dangle the Gerbing coaxial lead out the side, and your good to quickly connect and go.

 

On all my bikes before my R1200RT including a 250 dual sport, I've tpyically used an SAE connector, then I could power my jacket or charge my battery with the same connector.

 

You are right BUT .....

Using the supplied Battery Tender pig-tail to battery will not allow more than just the jacket to be operated. Add pants etc. and you will pop fuses again. Installing a higher than rated/reccommended amp fuse will work but... then the wiring gets warm/hot...not a good thing.

The cause...the wire gauge of the battery Tender pig-tail is to thin/small to run heated gear. It works good for battery charging and maybe just a liner but thats it. I know from experience..

So, I purchased the same SAE pig-tail from Gerbings (a few bux no biggie) but only in the recommended thicker wire gauge and all problems are gone.

I can hookup jacket,gloves,pants all to the battery via the thicker wired Gerbings pig-tail.

All is good.

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Rich is correct. If running a pig tail direct to battery, one should put in a 15A minimum (avail from Gerbings or whoever you buy your heated gear from) which will serve to be used to supply heated gear, and also as an input for the battery tender (if you use one). Jackets are hovering around the 80-90W range, and gloves around 20-30W per pair. Keep that in mind when using a battery tender pigtail with a 5-10A fuse - it ain't going to cut it if you load up too high.

 

-MKL

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