Heated Gear Controllers - Opinions Wanted

[moshe_levy]

All-

 

I'm in the midst of a lengthy heated gear comparo for MCN, and finally we're getting below freezing here in NJ, which allows for some proper testing. So far, I'm noticing the real differences between one brand and the other are less in the practical real world performance of the actual gear you wear, and more in the controller. The different brand controllers have very different ergonomics, and very different assumptions of how riders use them. Some of the configurations are baffling to me - as in, how the hell do they expect me to use this while riding - while some are more friendly, at least to my tastes.

 

Some riders hook controllers on their belts, others use remote controllers, others have them fixed to the bike, etc. Single control outputs, dual outputs for variable temps of two separate items.... So many configurations.

 

So I'm just wondering how you all deal with your controllers, so I can get a feel for how others operate and don't skew things too much with my personal preferences. What type of controller do you use? Where do you mount it (or keep it, as the case may be)? When do you find yourself adjusting temperature - stationary, on the fly, or what? If you could change something about your controller, what would it be?

 

Much like the shock comparo I wrote last year, I'm finding the real action in this comparison is not where I expected it to be, and I'm curious if others feel the same about their controllers as I do after sampling a few different types.

 

-MKL

[Firefight911]

On my old R12ST, I had the rider and passenger controllers permanently mounted, as pictured below:

 

 

On my K13GT, I am using the portable controller that I have set up for velcro attachment, as pictured below:

 

 

I find it difficult, at best, to even try to work the portable controller in any other way but how I have it. I would have gone with the permanent controller except that I would still need a portable if I move to my other motorcycle.

 

I loved the set up on my ST. It was very simple to use and it was easy to see.

 

All my set ups have been by way of Gerbing.

 

I adjust at any time - stationery, on the fly, etc. All easy to do with gloved hands from the above positions.

 

Waaaaay back when I had a Widder vest, I used only a simple on/off toggle switch and would cycle it as I needed, manually. I had gotten a portable rheostat Widder thermostat but, at that time, found it too difficult to use unless stationery.

 

I can't think of anything I would change at this time. There easy to use in the fashion I have them. I don't know how others do it from in their pockets, belt clips, etc. Too difficult and distracting.

[smiller]

I also have the controller mounted to the bike (with velcro) and can't imagine how it would be usable any other way, especially considering that in conditions cold enough to require heated gear you're probably going to be wearing middle-to-heavyweight gloves. I use a Gerbing controller mounted on the tank and have no problem adjusting it, although it wouldn't hurt if the knob were larger. Mounting position possibilities are endless and it just comes down to what feels right for you.

[elkroeger]

I too have a gerbing's permenant mount, single controller. It's mounted much like 1bmwfan's photo - on the dash, just left of the speedo (1100rs). The dual controller seemed to me to be too much stuff to fiddle with, and the single knob is easy enough to rotate without having to look at it. That's important, because it's dark quite a lot in the winter when I'm using it, and I can't see it in the dark anyhow. Sometimes I would like to have a larger knob because my gloves are too thick, but it's not that big a deal.

 

The only other controller I've used was an on/off switch attached to an aerostich heated vest. The lighted, push button switch worked okay. Sometimes I couldn't find it dangling there, and I'd have to look down. Looking down for a widget is bad news. But beyond that, the vest/switch worked alright for me, and there are advantages to that setup.

 

Eventually I had to switch to a jacket because the vest just wasn't cutting it mid-winter. I probably would have bought another aerostich unit, but the fit wasn't working out. Gerbing's has a much larger variety of sizes. That, and the factory is only an hour away...

 

Having used both, I'd have to say that the controller is mandatory because it eliminates a lot of the switching on/off distractions. Having it mounted somewhere, and staying put, is really worthwhile.

[ednowicki]

I bought a dual portable controller from gerbing. I tried various on-body configurations and was not pleased with any of them.

 

I then moved to a on/off switch and find this to be just fine in the cold weather, however on moderate temperature days it gets annoying to repeatedly flip 'on' then 'off' to get comfortable.

 

I really like the wireless remote control idea from warm 'n safe and intend on picking one up after xmas.

[EffBee]

Well, it's tough to be helpful here without someone thinking I have a bias becuase I work for Gerbings, but I'll curb my feelings and just go with the facts of my personal experiences.

 

The first piece of heated clothing I ever owned was a Widder Vest. I liked it. I also purchased with Widder variable Temperature Controller. It came with a matching set of Velcro pieces so that I could stick the Velcro side I wanted on to the controller and put the other piece somehwere on the motorcycle. But I didn't want Velcro on my motorcycle, so as I looked around I noticed that my riding jacket had a Velcro closure on the front storm flap. So, I stuck the appropriate Velcro on my controller and, leaving part of my jacket's storm flap open, I attached the controller to the front of my jacket, about 6" above my navel. It worked fine there.

 

Later, I noticed that I had some exposed Velcro on the waist-adjustment part of my jacket's perimeter belt (being a big guy, I wasn't able to pull the belt adjustment far enough back to cover all of the Velcro ), so I just moved the Temp Controller over to in front of my left kidney. This worked even better.

 

As for power, if I recall correctly, there was a harness that came off the battery. It had an inline fuse. The controller plugged in to that and then it plugged in to the vest. Whenever I got off the bike I just disconnected the power harness from the controller and walked away with the controller still attached to my jacket. Upon returning, I plugged it back in and was ready to go.

 

Later, and before I went to work for a BMW dealership, I bought my first 1100RT. It was early December and I asked my wife for a Gerbing Jacket Liner, since the Widder had worked well on my torso, but my arms were always a little too cool, and once in a while downright cold. In those days (a decade ago), the Gerbing's liners came wired as a single circuit (the jacket liner and the gloves would work off the same circuit and heat to the same temp setting). If you wanted a dual-circuit liner, you had to special order it. I got the single-circuit liner and modified the plug on my Widder controller and made it plug into the Gerbing Liner. It worked, and I got heat to my torso, neck and arms. I kept the Widder controller velcroed to my outer riding jacket's perimeter belt.

 

In 2002 I went to work for the BMW dealership near my home. They carried Gerbing's (it's where my wife got my Christmas present). I got to know the product line and we had good success fitting hundreds of customers each year. That means that I got to know the limitations of single-wired circuits (all heated apparel operates at the same temperature setting), from the advantages of dual-wired circuits (you can set two temperature ranges, generally one for your torso/arms and one for you gloves and other garments). Within a year, Gerbing switched over to dual-wired circuits as standard on all their Jacket Liners, and they offered the Dual Temp Controller to operate these circuits. At about the same time, they introduced the leather clip cases for the Temp Controllers. These allowed you to "clip" the Temp Controller to your jacket's belt, to an open pocket lip, to the storm flap of your jacket, to an outer pocket on your tank bag, and basically gave the consumer options that they'd never had before, without finding or sticking Velcro somewhere. At that time I sent my Jacket Liner to Gerbings to be rewired for dual circuits, and purchased a Dual Temp Controller and Leather Clip Case. This is the equipment I had until I recently purchased a Microwire liner.

 

The path for Warm 'n Safe wasn't much different. They offered both single and dual controllers, and eventually offered dual-circuit Jacket Liners. Interestingly, when it comes to the WNS single controller, if you really push, you can force one to fit into the Gerbing's Single Leather Clip Case, giving you the mounting flexibility (sans Velcro) that the clip case was designed to offer. Unfortunately, the larger WNS dual controller is too big to fit in the clip case for the Gerbings Dual Temp Controller.

 

Still, what was a customer to do if they purchased a newer Jacket Liner (wired with dual circuits) along with a single controller, because they didn't think they'd need the Heated Gloves? Then later, this same customer, decides he/she wants the gloves, too? Were they required to unload their single controller and buy a dual? Not necessarily. Certainly if they want dual-zone control, a dual controller is required. But Gerbings came up with the Y-splitter, a little 6-inch 2-into-one adapter, that took the dual circuit's input leads and mated them into a single circuit. And while this doesn't provide dual-zone control, it's a very inexpensive way for someone with a single controller to heat two (or more) garments.

 

Today, the Dual Temp Controller is by far the best seller as most customers eventually (if not immediately) end up with Jacket Liner and Gloves at the minimum. And the most common place to mount it is to your outer jacket's belt using the Leather Clip Case. Mounting it to the belt on your blue jeans, then covering it with your outer jacket completely negates its accessibility and would be akin to mounting it inside your tankbag, then zipping the bag shut and complaining about the lack of accessibility. Keeping the controller attached to one's jacket belt means a simple, one-plug disconnect and you can walk away from your bike. Upon returning, one plug and you're ready to roll.

 

Moshe, I don't know if this answers your questions, and certainly others have found a variety of different (and sometimes VERY creative) solutions that suit them individually. But as unbiased as I can be, that's my history with heated clothing and controllers, plus a little inside information on how the Gerbing's dual-circuit system works with both single and dual Temp Controllers.

[Bill_Walker]

I've used both dual and single controllers (Warm-n-Safe Heat-troller) in the belt-clip case, but I clip it onto the grab handle on my tank bag. Power is plugged into the BMW plug on my RT. I originally got the Gerbing jacket and gloves with a separate harness for the gloves, but found I always ran the gloves at the same setting as the jacket. When I lost my controller, I replaced it with a single controller and just plugged the gloves into the jacket.

[smiller]

I originally got the Gerbing jacket and gloves with a separate harness for the gloves, but found I always ran the gloves at the same setting as the jacket.

Yeah, it's a very individual thing but I also find a single control for a jacket liner and gloves to be quite adequate, or even preferable due to fewer wires and dials to deal with. This is particularly true if you have heated grips as they provide some additional control to keep your hand temperature in the right range. OTOH I've never used a liner/gloves combo on an unfaired bike without heated grips, in which case the additional control might come in handy.

[T__]

MKL, as you can see from the above it seems everybody likes something different..

 

Personally I run all Gerbings heated gear so use their dual controller..

 

In my case I need the dual pulse-width controller as I usually run my heated jacket liner at about 20% to 30% of available power but run my heated gloves & heated insoles at 60%-85%.. I tried operating with one controller but just couldn’t make it work for my riding gear in cold weather.. On my dirty bike it doesn’t have enough charging system to run all my heated gear at once so I will run the heated jacket liner a while then turn it way down & turn on my heated insoles & heated gloves for a while.. I just keep switching as one part of me gets cold.. So far that has allowed full heated gear on a bike with very little charging output..

 

For my set up plus riding lots of different bikes I use the (single input wire) Gerbings dual controller power supply wire from the bike to the dual controller clipped on the L/H side of my riding jacket (currently it just clips to the L/H side of the external belt on my riding coat) in the past it just clipped to a plastic loop on the L/H side of my riding coat..

In any case I ALWAYS keep it external on the L/H side of my riding coat & about the height of the top of lower pockets on my riding coat.. That leaves it EASILY accessible with either (gloved) hand while riding & easily viewable on the flashing LED’s.. I adjust my controller a lot here in Michigan as it could be 10°f out when I leave home in the morning & be 30°f by noon & the speeds can very from stop & go traffic to 85+ on the freeway..

 

With mounting the dual controller on my L/H side of my coat & externally that allows the dual control wires to simply go straight down & under the lower edge of my riding coat then up inside to the PDU on my jacket liner (very neat & tidy)

 

On my BMW I made up a short (no wire) adapter to adapt the factory outlet into the Grebings controller supply coax plug (again neat & tidy).. On all my other bikes I have either built in coax plugs or a coax pig tails on the L/H side so I just plug in when I mount the bike..

 

With wearing the controller on my coat- when I dismount obviously the controller stays with me so I simply unplug the (ONE) wire going to the bike & tuck it into my coat belt loop.. That works for quick gas stops or a meal stop.. If longer times off the bike I just unplug the controller from the liner PDU & leave it in the tank bag..

 

In warmer weather (like above 25°f) I wear a Gerbings vest instead of a jacket liner so in that case I use a single controller (same external mounting area on my riding coat) & don’t use heated gloves or heated insoles.. The vest also works great on my dirt bike as it draws less power & is less bulky when flopping around off road..

 

In my younger years I never wore any heated gear down to 15°f or so but have found that by wearing lightweight heated vest or jacket liner I can get by with a simple jacket shell without having to bulk up under the jacket.. Same with my feet,, without heated insoles or heated socks I ended up wearing very heavy socks or multiple socks & that made my feet sweat when walking when off the bike or at events.. It seems that using heated gear I can dress lightly for extended travel even in cold weather & just adjust my temperature with the controller dial instead of stopping to add or remove layers of clothing..

 

Some of the above is probably due to my personal motorcycle usage.. I am not a casual under one hour or short trip rider in cold weather.. I use my bike(s) for about all transportation,, shopping,, commuting,, travel until the roads get so icy that I just can’t depend on road condition.. That means that I am on & off the bike many times per day & will shop,, walk,, sometimes even work in my riding gear.. SO,, light weight riding gear that keeps me warm is a must for me.. For ME heated gear & OLDER person (old fart) motorcycling go together like peanut butter & jelly..

 

Twisty

 

[OoPEZoO]

 

I use mine about the same as this. On my 1100RT I have it velcroed right above where the seat touches the tank. I use a Gerbings single controller with the wires snaked under the seat back to the rear accessory outlet. I use it to run my Gerbings liner. It makes it easy for me to adjust it on the fly, even with my bulky winter gloves.

 

On cold mornings (under 40 degrees), I crank it up as soon as I pull out of the driveway and usually keep it there until I get into bumper to bumper traffic. Then I have to dial it back to keep from cooking myself. I've been using it this way for 2 winters now and don't plan on changing anything except I want to run a permanent pigtail to the battery. Just been too lazy.

[Paul Mihalka]

Current controller usage: I regularly use my pretty old Gerbing jacket liner with fairly new Gerbing gloves. I use a single circuit controller as I am happy adjusting what I need for the jacket and vary the heat at the gloves using the off/low heat/high heat adjustment of the heated grips. Right now I have a Widder controller mounted like this:

 

 

I have on order a Warm'n Safe wireless remote controller that I'll mount in some similar accessible fashion. I play with the controller all the time.

 

My heated gear history: Started like Fernando and many others, with a Widder vest and on/off switch. Graduated to a Gerbing jacket liner that still came with SAE type connectors that I didn't like at all. So I converted everything to the Widder type plugs, like this:

 

 

What I also liked about the Widder plugs was that you could get screw mount connectors so everything adapted and I could make my own extension cables, etc.

 

 

Now I have on order with the new Warm'n Safe controller a new jacket liner, so I'll be up-to-date and all on co-axial connectors.

 

 

 

 

[chrisolson]

Gerbings, almost exactly like ...

 

 

... except its a single controller and its on my '06 GT. Plug in via cord at front of seat.

 

I also have a Gerbings mobile one that I used on the Alaska trip and it was attached to the tank bag.

[DavidEBSmith]

Single FirstGear/Warm n Safe controller, Dual-lok'ed to the left side black side panel, plugged into the auxiliary power outlet, the output wiring running under the seat and exiting at the front. It's non-permanently mounted so that I can move it to the F650 if I want to.

 

[pokorskij]

I have a Gerbing jacket liner and use a Powerlet dual controller with leather case with clip for the last two years.

 

Originally I had the controller clipped to the edge of my Darien jacket but that didn't hold very well.

I also tried using it on the tank rails of the R1200RT with velcro. OK but not that good.

 

I then tried a key keeper clipped to the top left pocket of the Darien with two larger key rings. This allowed the controller to be low enough for me to see the knobs and lights while riding and helped for adjustment purposes. One plug from under the seat to disconnect to get off the bike.

 

This year, I clipped the controller to the side of the BMR shelf, and leave the controller on the bike. One connection to the jacket to get off. Like this the best. Overall I think the permanent connection of some would be the best. However my semi permanent set up works very well for me.

 

PS. I recently purchased the G5 Gerbing gloves but have not used them yet. Might not even need them as what I found was that once I started using the jacket liner my hands did not get cold any longer. Previously in colder weather the backs of my hands would get cold while using he heated grips. But now the jacket keeps the body core warm, so the blood flows better to the hands.

[krussell]

I have the Warm N Safe dual wireless Heat Troller

 

 

It's zip tied to the bar and works great there. I plan on moving it somewhere with velcro, so it's easier to move between bikes and I don't consume two zip ties every move.

 

I did a detailed review at

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=49772&Number=546848#Post546848

 

The big advantages I find with the wireless version are:

 

- Mount it anywhere, no running wires, no drilling

- Controller tucks nicely jacket pocket, very small, one wire leading to the bike, even with the dual version

- Easily moved between multiple bikes

 

This controller has large widely spaced knobs that are easy to use even while wearing my thick Gerbing T5 gloves. The knobs on the Gerbing are closer and they are tapered, I couldn't use them with gloves on.

 

The downsides:

 

- It's slightly more expensive $139.99 vs. $99.99 when you look at the controller alone.

- You will need to replace the battery about once a season.

 

 

[tallman]

Both Beth and I use Gerbings jacket liners and heated gloves.

Both of us have the portable single control.

Both of us use the belt clip to hook onto the outside jacket belt on our TouMaster Transition jackets.

This puts the controller right above and just in front of my jacket outside lower pocket.

I can use either hand, whilst wearing any of my gloves, to adjust the temperature setting.

So can Beth.

Our power is wired directly to the battery and the connector comes out under the seat.

Plug in and go.

Simple, effective.

I also have a BMW outlet plug connector so I can use it on another bike that is set up that way.

I also have spare battery connections (you got extras w/all we ordered) that I could hook to a battery on another bike in a pinch.

I prefer to keep the controller under my control when off the bike.

Don't want someone to remove it.

[Penforhire]

I run a Gerbings dual controller hooked on my jacket waist adjuster strap (older Motoport Ultra II). Position seems perfect to adjust with my left hand, controler cords loop nicely under the bottom of the jacket, and the power cable runs to accessory ports on left side of bike (used rear on my FJR, now use front port on my RT).

 

When I used a single controller I didn't feel warm enough in their gloves until the liner was roasting me. I had Gerbings rewire my liner to heat the gloves separately when I bought the dual controller.

[Fightingpiper]

[tomk99r11]

Previously I had a Widder vest at first operated with simple on/off switch then replaced with the rheostat controller. Got rid of the vest due to bulk and lack of arm coverage.

 

Next bought a Gerbings liner with variable controller. Placement of the controller was on my jacket belt but that was hard to adjust with thick gloves on. Moved the controller to the tank bag strap which is much better. Have a Gerbings dual controller, unused at this point, to use with Tourmaster heated gloves at some point.

 

Also have a Tourmaster Synergy liner with the funky O/H/M/L button controller which I use strapped to my leg or clipped to the tank bag strap. That controller works great, rarely have the temp set on anything but L. Have used the Tourmaster gloves with both liners run on the single controller but not yet with the dual Gerbings controller. Not sure where placement will be for the controller at this point.

[realshelby]

In Houston I may leave with the Gerbings Jacket, Pants, and G3 gloves all plugged in. But that is the exception. Jacket only 90% of the time ( 50 minute commute).

Convenience is the key. I did not want the complication of dual controls. I have the power lead sticking out between the seat/tank. I bought a cheap cell phone pouch with a strong belt clip. Made a hole in the bottom for the wire that powers the controller and goes to main lead at seat area. I clip the controller to the tabs on the waist cinch on both of the cold weather suits I use. The wire to the jacket is run thru a hole in the suit. This way I can get completely dressed and then go to the bike and make one connection to be underway. I see no need in seeing the controller. With my left hand, even with the G3 gloves, I can make on the fly adjustments to the temp controller. I have found that the temps are even enough that I doubt I would have much difference in the settings were I to use a dual temp controller. If anything the gloves could be warmer and I simply use the heated grips to regulate that.

[Woodie]

Synergy jacketliner here.

One wire (power) comes up from in front of the seat.

Controller is fixed to the left side of the liner, hangs down about a foot. 3 settings, very easy to use one handed with heavy gloves--just reach down, pull the controller up. Left button turns on/cycles heat through the three settings. Right button turns it off. Also has LEDs, so I can see what setting I'm at, if I need to.

 

It comes with a thigh strap, that you're supposed to put around your left leg, and then use the clip on the back of the controller to hook to it. I tried it, but didn't like it: The thigh strap was awkward, and had to be put on just in the right spot, since the cord for the controller is very heavy-duty, and straight.

 

Overall, I find the controller very effective, and I haven't found a real need for the infinitely adjustable ones. When this controller dies, I may opt for the Warm-n-Safe remote controller, mounted up front somewhere. (they have a special part to fit the Synergy series!!)

 

[BeemerLover]

I have the Synergy jacket liner and love it. The controller comes with it, no additional cost. Three settings, never have wanted more.

 

Also, if you want to make your own controller buy this PWM module for $20. They also have a box to put it in.

 

http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033

 

I've controlled my Gerbings gloves with one of these units for years.

 

 

[Armando]

Another happy Synergy user here. The wire for the controller is quite thick so I just let it hang behind my left thigh. I can get to it and without looking at it, control it with my thick heated gloves. When I get to work, I wear the liner and just tuck the controller in the left pocket. I did have it on high tonight on my way home as it was 17 degrees.

 

 

[Peter Parts]

All very interesting. Thanks.

 

I have a still unhoused DC pulse-duration modulation type controller bought for about $16 ("MX033"). But never bothered wiring it up since I find just a simple in-line 120-volt-type rocker switch is all I need for Gerbing's jacket and older gloves.

 

Logic: if it is cold enough to bother with electric heat, I need it all. Whether that's good logic, a two-valued control seems to be as fine-grained as I need. After all,, the time-constant for the whole system (jacket, wires, and human) is quite long and switching on or off every 15 minutes is plenty of time on a short winter jaunt. Maybe someday I'll wire-up the DC controller.

 

Of course, Moshe, the real issue is trying to accurately dial-in and maintain human comfort (as opposed to electric power). That means having pots with proper resistance curves (log?), knobs that are resettable to the same index mark, being able to feel the detents or knob-index-pointer through thick gloves, large enough knobs to work with winter gloves in, and other human/ergo issues that mean a lot in practice.

 

Having thermostatic control would help a lot but no obvious way to do it. But with the wind power available to bikers, we can trim the heat in lots of easy ways as we ride by adjusting (for example, front zipper height).

 

Gerbing's is great stuff.

 

Like any winter rider, I have endless fine gradations of clothing ending with snowmobile pants, thermal underwear, winter boots, turtleneck sweaters, carbon heat packs (the latest generation are really great and can be temporarily quenched by putting inside a good ziplock baggie).

[Bullett]

I run my warm-n-safe liner, Gerbings G-3 gloves and comfort socks off a singe warm-n-safe controller that I keep in the left side pocket of my jacket.

 

I have marked the controller with a sharpie at my normal comfort setting. If it is really cold I know to set the thing a little warmer.

 

I have been known to pull the control out of my pocket and adjust while on cruise control, but I've found that I don't usually need to make many adjustments.

 

Edit: I don't wear the socks unless it is really, really cold--teens or lower.

[Peter Parts]

snip

 

Logic: if it is cold enough to bother with electric heat, I need it all. Whether that's good logic, a two-valued control seems to be as fine-grained as I need.snip

 

Just out for little ride today (-3C) and realized my all-or-nothing comment isn't as stupid as it seems (I hope no one will report me for being rude about myself).

 

When it is just a bit cool, like today, I wear my dress shirt under the Gerbing's jacket and, at full power, that's generally OK for most speeds. But when it gets really cool, I wear a turtle-neck sweater, thermal socks, etc.... again, the mostly on all the time works fine.

 

In other words, I never seem to need a variable controller. Doesn't everybody dress according to the weather?

 

In the arctic or anywhere cold, managing perspiration is a main challenge. I find the jacket gets enough breeze so that perspiration isn't an issue. But the gloves get damp inside even without overheating my hands. Maybe some judiciously applied Goretex would be helpful in heated gloves. (Most of the year, I am devoted to my deer-skins gloves for a whole bunch of good reasons.)

[Paul Mihalka]

I just installed the Warm'n Safe remote controller on my R1200GS. I don't like anything extra on my body or jacket pocket, so instead of putting it in a jacket pocket I put the receiver part in the recess of the gas tank,

 

 

The remote adjuster is inside the left hand guard, same as I had the Widder controller, but this one is smaller and no wires.

 

 

Should work well. No extra stuff.

 

 

 

[krussell]

snip

 

Logic: if it is cold enough to bother with electric heat, I need it all. Whether that's good logic, a two-valued control seems to be as fine-grained as I need.snip

 

Just out for little ride today (-3C) and realized my all-or-nothing comment isn't as stupid as it seems (I hope no one will report me for being rude about myself).

 

When it is just a bit cool, like today, I wear my dress shirt under the Gerbing's jacket and, at full power, that's generally OK for most speeds. But when it gets really cool, I wear a turtle-neck sweater, thermal socks, etc.... again, the mostly on all the time works fine.

 

In other words, I never seem to need a variable controller. Doesn't everybody dress according to the weather?

 

In the arctic or anywhere cold, managing perspiration is a main challenge. I find the jacket gets enough breeze so that perspiration isn't an issue. But the gloves get damp inside even without overheating my hands. Maybe some judiciously applied Goretex would be helpful in heated gloves. (Most of the year, I am devoted to my deer-skins gloves for a whole bunch of good reasons.)

 

My favorite rides typically involve temperature change. Vertical, light/dark, bodies of water, etc., all have a big impact on the sensation of cold. It's not unusual to see 20 degrees of variance, and it can be 30 or more. Depending on the ride, there is usually a wide variance in speed and tree canopy too. And living in Oregon, many rides involve rain, then no rain, then rain, ... In yesterdays' 169 mile ride the low was 39 in tree cover next to a river, with a high of near 60 in town.

 

For me, the big advantage of the heat-troller is I can ride through all of this, be comfortable at the temperature I want to be, and not stop to layer once.

 

The other big advantage is I don't have to put on so much stuff that I cant' move either. Long sleeve thine base layer, heated liner, Darien w/liner gets me through all of it this time of year.

 

I think the new liner technology may be aimed at selling heat controls too, as I couldn't stand full heat with either the Gerbing Microwire stuff or the Warm-n-safe Generation 4. I never ran either of them much above half way, even down into the 20s.

[smiller]

Doesn't everybody dress according to the weather?

Err, the weather changes on a bike even over amazingly short periods of time. Why, sometimes it even seems that the wind is going 80 mph one moment and stopped the next...

[Peter Parts]

You won't get any argument from me about how nice it is to be able to vary the heat. I've already bought my $16 MX033 pulse-length controller.

 

All I am saying is, settling for an in-line on-off (or no-ffo) switch is a good place to save $100. Or sometimes the eternal question: do I want to drill a hole in my dashboard for some winter-time bling I won't sell with the bike anyway.

 

Instead of futzing with the variable control a few times during a trip, you might have to bump the switch a few times. And the body-comfort time-constant, as I mentioned earlier, is pretty long and certainly doesn't need adjustment too frequently.

 

My trip today, for example, I plugged into the accessory jack, cranked the engine, switched on the heat and did nothing more about it till I got to my destination. Same on reverse except for convenience I turned on the heat before cranking my already warm engine.

[EffBee]

I think the new liner technology may be aimed at selling heat controls too, as I couldn't stand full heat with either the Gerbing Microwire stuff or the Warm-n-safe Generation 4. I never ran either of them much above half way, even down into the 20s.

 

Actually, the new Gerbing's technology has exactly to do with what it says. It's thinner, lighter, much stronger and more durable, and it heats faster. Those were the contracted specifics with the Department of Defense for whom we created and developed this new heating system, before we patented it and put it in our consumer heated clothing. However, the reason Gerbing's makes heated clothing that gets as warm as it does (and I assume Warm N Safe does too, although I can't speak for them) is the fact that all of our customers don't dress the same way. Some, like you, follow the factory's instructions about using a simple base layer before putting on their heated jacket liner. Others feel they have to have several layers underneath said liner. That, of course, distances the heat from the body and requires that it be turned up higher in order to reach through those layers and to the rider.

 

Like you, I ride with a base layer (poly pro most of the time, although capilene works better in bitter cold) and my Gerbing's Jacket Liner is rarely turned up past about 1/3. It used to be limited to about 50%, but that was with the old copper-wire technology.

 

One thing that's very important however, is the amount of "contact transfer" prevalent in the kind of outerwear one uses. By "contact transfer" what is meant is the amount of cold retained by the outer garment, which goes through to the inner side of the garment, and counteracts the effects of heated gear, whether by contacting the base layer, the heated clothing or by radiating into the air space between the outer garment and you.

 

Leather, for all its wind-blocking capabilities, gets very cold on its inside surface. This means that it is radiating that cold into the same sealed area where your heated jacket liner is trying to provide warmth. Textiles do not get as cold, particularly if they use a cloth-based waterproof layer as opposed to a bonded polyurethane waterproofing. Therefore, when it comes to maximizing the effects of the warmth that a heated jacket liner creates, using a good, waterproof textile outer garment is better than using leather, and that advantage increases as the temperature drops.

 

Just sharing information with everyone and expanding the group's collective knowledge, although we're digressing from Moshe's original question about controllers and how we all use them.

[krussell]

although we're digressing from Moshe's original question about controllers and how we all use them.

 

I didn't intend to digress, just to point out, at least for this rider, that a heat-troller is a critical part of a heated gear solution.

[EffBee]

although we're digressing from Moshe's original question about controllers and how we all use them.

 

I didn't intend to digress, just to point out, at least for this rider, that a heat-troller is a critical part of a heated gear solution.

 

The "we" refers to my lengthy explanation and that "I" was pulling the collective "we" away from Moshe's original question. It wasn't directed at anyone in particular, although I originally quoted you to start my post. Still, I can understand how it could be interpreted as including you in the digression. It wasn't, and rest assured you didn't. I did. And it appears as though I'm guilty for not making it less open to interpretation.

 

Let's get this back on track, as Moshe is working on an article for MCN and needs everyone's inputs with regard to controllers.

[moshe_levy]

All-

 

Digress away. This info is useful to know. I'd like to digress myself, in that I noticed that all jacket liners and vests I'm testing do not put heating elements on the upper chest area. I'm ASSuming this is for medical reasons, i.e., not heating the blood around the heart, for much the same reason one sees warning signs about not staying in heated hot tubs for too long. Am I correct or totally off base?

 

-MKL

[EffBee]

Actually, the heated areas in the chest of our Jacket Liner do come up above the heart. In fact, the heating panels in the chest come up above the outer logo on the liner, which is located approximately at heart height. So it does rise above the ol' pumper. There really should be no problem with gentle heat in this area, no more so than someone sunning themselves on a summer day. Of course, anything can be taken to extreme.

 

This brings up an important design characteristic of the Gerbing's liner. We do not use spandex panels to pull the heating elements tight against the skin. When one does so, it directly heats that portion of one's torso, leaving other areas (between the heated panels) cold. Your skin then has to act as a conductor of the heat to get it to travel to the unheated areas and relieve your discomfort. Frankly, skin isn't a particularly good conductor.

 

Instead, Gerbing's goes the more expensive route of making more sizes, especially "in-between" sizes, so that a customer can get a cozy, but not tight, fit. Fitting a customer this way, helps ensure that there's a thin layer of air between the heated garment and their skin. Heating this thin layer of air, rather than pulling the hot wires tightly against the skin, creates a cushion of warmth that envelopes the entire torso, so that the heat a rider feels is more even, more uniform. In this manner, providing smooth heat, even over the heart, is not a problem, since the heated air is at a comfortable room temperature, rather than the 100-102 degrees of the hot tub issue you referred to, Moshe. Keep in mind that when traveling through cold air at 60+mph, heat does get lost to "contact transfer" as well as whatever bit of leakage takes place around the waist, wrists and especially the collar. So having heated clothing that is capable of reaching well past 100 degrees is necessary to offset those losses, and wind chill, in order to maintain a comfortable 72-to-80-degree environment.

 

Gerbing's air cushion principle is the same principle that has been used with electric blankets for years (only you don't have to worry about wind chill in your bedroom). You heat the air around the body and the warmth is spread equally, comfortably, with no hot spots. There's no doubt that it IS more expensive to do it this way, as many more garment sizes need to be manufactured and inventoried, especially if you do it like Gerbing's does and offer your customers both Regular and Long sleeves for almost every single size (21 sizes in all, plus Tall sizes and no-cost custom sized liners for the hard-to-fit). But 35 years of experience, testing, testing and more testing has proven it's the best way to deliver the kind of heat Gerbing's believes has no equal. And as for the extra expense of manufacturing and inventorying more sizes, just as we did when we developed the more costly Microwire Heating System, Gerbing's absorbs the cost.

[Peter Parts]

All-

 

Digress away. This info is useful to know. I'd like to digress myself, in that I noticed that all jacket liners and vests I'm testing do not put heating elements on the upper chest area. I'm ASSuming this is for medical reasons, i.e., not heating the blood around the heart, for much the same reason one sees warning signs about not staying in heated hot tubs for too long. Am I correct or totally off base?

 

-MKL

 

Kind of right but not exactly.

 

As I poorly understand physiology, heat on the kidney-area causes some recognized and significant syndrome whose name and features escape me. Not sure if the nice folks who make heated jackets know about this... but I sure hope so.

[Peter Parts]

Ooops, I can't find a thing about heat to the kidney area (except some superstitious Eastern nonsense). But a friend did a DIY liner and ended up in Emerg and a discussion about heating kidneys followed. Pending more detective work, pay no attention to previous post.

[TandemGeek]

I've been using a Gerbings system (jacket / gloves / Heatroller) for about 8 seasons.

 

For me, and because I ride multiple bikes, I've used the leather clip cases for portability.

 

- When using it with my two-piece cold weather gear I clip the Heatroller to the top of the cargo pocket's zippered opening on my left thigh (see photo, below). This works well for me because it falls right below the wire interface on the Gerbings jacket and exit from my jacket, I can easily find and work the controls with my left hand while riding or stopped, and it gives me a place to stuff the power lead when walking between my office and the parking lot.

 

- When it gets below 20F I switch over to a one-piece suit which presented a minor problem with regard to the Heatroller in that once the suit is on there are no openings at the mid-waist. So, to allow the Heatroller & wires to pass through the suit from my Gerbings jacket's interface I created my own opening in top of the left-hand suit's pocket. This allows me to snake the wires through the pocket into the jacket and then through the mesh & quilted liners to make the connection inside the suit. Lacking a thigh pocket, I hook the Heatroller to the wide waist band on the suit and then zip the left hand pocket shut around the wires to seal out any small cold air leaks. Again, it's easy to find the Heatroller with my left hand to make adjustments on the fly and, once again, the pocket gives me a place to stuff the lead wire & controller when I walk between my office and the parking lot.

 

I would note that I started off with the single input Heatroller given that was the state of the art when I bought my Gerbings jacket, i.e., heat to the gloves was pushed through the jacket... unless you were willing to snake a separate wire through your riding gear for the gloves. This was always a bit problematic in that to get the gloves warm enough for my liking the jacket would become too hot, particularly on my back where the jacket was pressed against my body by my backpack. I finally had the jacket re-wired this past March so that I could use a dual Heattroller and it's been great having the separate circuits for the gloves and jacket. In fact, I opted to leave the RT at home today and rode my R11S which has minimal protection for the hands and no heated grips. Even at 29F, once the gloves were warmed up I only needed about 50% power to keep my hands nice and toasty... and that's with Gerbings gloves that are probably due for replacement after 8 seasons given the linings aren't as poofy and plush as they once were.

 

Two-piece suit pocket location.

[Hotspice]

So I'm just wondering how you all deal with your controllers, so I can get a feel for how others operate and don't skew things too much with my personal preferences. What type of controller do you use? Where do you mount it (or keep it, as the case may be)? When do you find yourself adjusting temperature - stationary, on the fly, or what? If you could change something about your controller, what would it be?

 

Both my girlfriend and I use both heated liners and gloves so the Gerbing's Portable Dual Controllers are what we use.

 

For her, the best locations has been to clip it to her tank bag. With it clipped there she can easily see the knobs to make adjustments on the fly when she needs to.

 

For me, I clip the controller to the outside of my Darien jacket so that I have easy access to the adjustments. I do adjust on the fly regularly, usually based on if I'm on the slab, around town, or riding a mixture of roads. I've been using the controller forever so I don't have to look down when I need to make an adjustment.