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Blub, Blub, Blub....Motolight Replacement Blubs?


markgoodrich

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I just called Motolight and they're sending me two "free" replacement 50W blubs. Shipping charge is something like $7. I don't mind the charge, but am curious if there's a typical local source in cities where one can find replacements. The blubs are generic Chinese, no brand.

 

I've been told the 12V blubs one can buy at Home Depot, etc, won't last...dunno if that's true or not.

 

The white insulator in the reflector of the dead blub is chalky, disintegrating.

 

I see similar blubs online with 6,000 hour life for ten bucks or so, 2000 hour blubs for less than two bucks.

 

The blub says:

 

EXT

12V 50W

UV-Stop

011

 

I dunno what all that means.

 

Any suggestions?

 

 

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I've found the Home Depot MR-16 to last longer than the bulbs that came with the Motolights; mine are still going strong after three years. 35w (which Motolight supplies with the units) throws about as far as the stock high beam. I've never needed the extra light and worry about excess heat building up in the housing. Be sure and get the 12 degree beam spread. Anything more will get in the eyes of oncoming traffic and not really gain you any more visibility. These bulbs are usually used for indoor lighting where the subject is only a few feet away and a spot is truly a spot. At the full distance a spot spread is actually pretty wide, especially when you angle the right side light just a little out to the right.

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I've found them at ordinary hardware stores. Expanding on what Tony said, the motolights come, I think, with 8 degree beam spread. Some folks use the wider spreads on the right side only, to spot critters after dark without blinding/pissing off oncoming traffic.

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I still miss those PIAAs that were on Dianne's RS. Those things were BRIGHT!

 

Plus mounting them at the roundel on the fairing elevated them.

I had people respond to those lights all the time.

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Thanks again for all the suggestions. When my Motolight blubs burn out, I'll switch to the local option. Or maybe I'll go ahead and get the yellow ones. When I had yellow blubs for awhile, I felt that I was noticed more. However, the white 50W blubs also get people's attentions.

 

The ANSI code designations are impenetrable. I looked for a "decoder" all over the googie, with no luck. Motolight sends a blub which is ANSI EXT. None of the suggested blubs have that designation, yet all the different types have a similar life of around 4,000 hours. Dunno how long the EXT is supposed to last.

 

 

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The "free" Motolight replacement blubs arrived today ($7.50 shipping and handling, priority mail), quick, friendly service.

 

Here's what I learned:

 

Brand: SATCO

P/N: S1961

Rated life: 2000 hours

50W, "Narrow Spot"

Filament: C6

Base: GX5.3

ANSI: EXT

 

At Home Depot, Philips 50W MR16s are ANSI coded EXN, and sell for $5.97 each. I think they're rated at 4000 hours...should've paid closer attention.

 

I have no idea what the difference is between ANSI EXT and EXN blubs, nor do I understand the difference between GU5.3 and GX5.3 bases.

 

If anyone can uh, shed light on these issues, that would be uh, illuminating.

 

I did learn that the hour rating doesn't mean the blub will last, say, 2000 hours; it means that in lab conditions, half the blubs will have burnt out and half will still be operational.

 

So bottom line appears to be that Motolight uses a cheap blub, but happily sends more out, which for the end user is probably a little cheaper than buying blubs of equivalent brightness and life. Six of one...

 

On the other hand, the very long life yellow blubs mentioned by richedwards look like the best solution...bright yellow color, long, long life.

 

 

 

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Don't know that shorter life means cheap.

Could be that the bulb design, to create a narrow, pencil, driving beam, requires a difference in the X factor design and therefore shorter life span.

Don't know, just a shot in the dark.

I do know that I see a difference between the narrow beams and the wider dispersal beams when I ride in the dark.

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I've found the Home Depot MR-16 to last longer than the bulbs that came with the Motolights; mine are still going strong after three years. 35w (which Motolight supplies with the units) throws about as far as the stock high beam. I've never needed the extra light and worry about excess heat building up in the housing. Be sure and get the 12 degree beam spread. Anything more will get in the eyes of oncoming traffic and not really gain you any more visibility. These bulbs are usually used for indoor lighting where the subject is only a few feet away and a spot is truly a spot. At the full distance a spot spread is actually pretty wide, especially when you angle the right side light just a little out to the right.

 

 

bINGO...We've got a winner.!

 

HDepot for the MR-16's..they work a treat.!

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Moshe, if you want max conspicuity, go with the yellow blubs. I would think heat from 75 watts would fry the connectors. The LED option seems crazy expensive, but then I've never seen how much light they put out.

 

My regular weekend riding group has a variety of different auxiliary lighting setups. If I'm leading, I can see the guys with yellow lights (of any type) WAYYY back there; the white lights, not quite so much (having said that I'm using white lights right now, but will switch to yellow when they burn out).

 

EDIT: the LED blubs you linked to are all floods; I think I'd stick with the narrow beam blubs.

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Mark-

 

I'm quite curious on the LEDs. Wonder if it's worth a test. Agree on the 75W. They do have 60-65w versions that might be OK, though. I'll have to call Motolight and see what they say.

 

-MKL

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One more question, since I haven't actually seen a Motolight bulb. Do you have to buy replacements with, or without, the "cover glass?"

 

-MKL

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One more question, since I haven't actually seen a Motolight bulb. Do you have to buy replacements with, or without, the "cover glass?"

 

-MKL

 

The ones Motolight provides are "without," but I dunno if it makes a difference.

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Ah, here's the reason for cover glass:

 

. When using an MR16 Halogen lamp, why do I need to use a closed fixture or an MR16 with cover glass?

 

MR16 lamps without cover glass should only be used in a closed fixture (fixture that keeps all parts of bulb enclosed) since the filament tube of all MR16 lamps is pressurized. In the unlikely event that the filament tube breaks, the closed fixture keeps glass particles from leaving the fixture. MR16 lamps with a built-on cover glass can be operated in an open fixture since the cover glass will contain any broken pieces of the filament tube.

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So here is the $64 question. Can you use a bulb with a glass cover, inside a closed fixture?

 

I hope so. I just changed out the white lights in the motolights to yellow. The white lights had no cover but were in the closed fixture. The yellow lights DO have a cover and are in the closed fixture.

 

Hope that doesn't create too much heat>>>

 

PS: They actually look pretty awesome. 50 watt, 12d beam

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So here is the $64 question. Can you use a bulb with a glass cover, inside a closed fixture?

 

Yes. Absolutely. My yellow (glass covered) bulbs have been in service for years now and I have not had to replace them. The original bulbs did not last as long.

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So here is the $64 question. Can you use a bulb with a glass cover, inside a closed fixture?

 

Yes. Absolutely. My yellow (glass covered) bulbs have been in service for years now and I have not had to replace them. The original bulbs did not last as long.

 

 

Good to know. Thanks!

 

PS: Sorry I missed you guys on the Mt. Dora run> Wife had other plans for that day. I'll check out the events page to see what you guys did...

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"Blub, Blub, Blub...."

 

 

I thought you were gonna talk about the Hardley episode on South Park...

 

 

 

 

--

 

Now that's funny!! ROFLMAO!!

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"Blub, Blub, Blub...."

 

 

I thought you were gonna talk about the Hardley episode on South Park...

 

 

 

 

--

 

Now that's funny!! ROFLMAO!!

 

You guys clearly were paying no attention in sixth grade grammar class, were you? Commas indicate a pause. The Southpark deal would have read BLUBBLUBBLUB.

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Yeeha! Stephen
"Blub, Blub, Blub...."

 

 

I thought you were gonna talk about the Hardley episode on South Park...

 

 

 

 

--

 

Now that's funny!! ROFLMAO!!

 

You guys clearly were paying no attention in sixth grade grammar class, were you? Commas indicate a pause. The Southpark deal would have read BLUBBLUBBLUB.

 

 

 

Don't you be talkin' about my Grammar! She's too nice a Lady to be watchin' South Park! :mad:

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Hi All-

 

Just purchased a new (second hand, but new) set of Motolights. Been reading this thread and was wondering if anyone's had any experience using higher wattage bulbs (i.e., 75W), or alternatively the LED MR-16s as shown http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/CTGY/MR16LED

 

The Motolights I bought have standard 35W bulbs and I want max conspicuity.

 

-MKL

 

I have been using the 75w bulbs in my motolights for years. No issues with too much heat and the connectors are fine. I did have some outgassing early on, but removed the lenses and wiped out the insides and no more issues. The bulbs that I have were special ordered off the internet (don't remember where) but I had to get 6 of them. I still have three new in the package (one when out when I laid my bike down)... These are super bright white (very visible even in daytime). Several times I have had cars start to pull out in front of me and then stop, and I believe this is due to the 75w lights... I have them aimed straight ahead and parallel to the road (used a level when I installed them) and have not had problems with them shining in the rear windows of cars in front of me (until they are far in front of me) or oncomming traffic.

 

Specs:

 

Phillips

Halotone

Brilliantline PRO

75w 12v base:GU 5.3

ansi EYF

beam spread 10 degrees

75MR16/SP10

4000hrs

 

Looks like they are about $4 each....

http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/nw012104/75MR16.SP10EYFPHILIPS.htm

 

Luky

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