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You know it's time for new shocks when....


drswift

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You're taking a tight corner, hit a dip in the road, and CRUNCH!!!

848984296_kyGP3-M.jpg

You leave part of your fairing and some paint off the belly pan, plus the corner of your break pedal.

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been there, done that......same result

 

A new set of shocks fixed her right up. Now I'm back to only dragging the center stand and footpeg feelers :grin:

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Peter Parts

All unexpected, no previous obvious problems or signs, just let go?

 

The stockers are rebuildable and revalvable.

 

Ben

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Phil:

Barely any - five clicks.

 

Bullet:

 

Replacement shocks are pretty pricey. I might see what kind of deals are at the MOA rally. Last year Ohlin had free installation, and their tech staff on hand to balancing. Plus Roegon has no sales tax (for now).

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Peter Parts

Everybody endlessly fusses over pricey aftermarket shocks instead of the primary issues which are spring rate and geometry.

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Peter Parts
.. the primary issues which are spring rate and geometry.

 

And where do you buy these?

 

Good question.

 

Spring rate can be lowered using a grinder and bathroom scale (not safe unless you understand the issues).

 

Removing length raises the rate but has other consequences that can be bad. Finding springs with higher rate deserves the attention of the wise persons of this forum.

 

Geometry is mostly a matter of making sure by measurement that the bike suspension concept is met unless you have chosen otherwise.

 

Ben

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Since my bathroom scale is wrong, and my grinder needs a disc, I'll stand behind Dave and get some Ohlins at the MOA rally... :grin:

 

MB>

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Are the shocks "bouncy" with too much rebound?

It may be that you just need to check the preload adjuster. You should feel the preload adjuster load up as you progressively tighten it down. If it doesn't, do the "jack oil" charge on it to get the pre-load adjustment back (do a search on the board).

 

If your pre-load is working fine, try running the pre-load down to over half way, especially if you are hooning around :thumbsup:.

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Are the shocks "bouncy" with too much rebound?

If your pre-load is working fine, try running the pre-load down to over half way, especially if you are hooning around :thumbsup:.

 

Phil:

The rear seems fine even when I crank it most of the way down for riding two-up. It's the front that keeps bottoming out. (The bike is a 57K miles).

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Well that answers THAT :grin:

 

Looks like replacement shocks are in your future :(

If you want to "save a few bob" might be worth your while to look on Ebay or do a google search to find a low mileage front hanging around?

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Peter Parts
Since my bathroom scale is wrong, and my grinder needs a disc, I'll stand behind Dave and get some Ohlins at the MOA rally... :grin:

 

MB>

 

For $10 you can buy a new bathroom scale or nearly $3000 for a pair of Ohlins shocks.

 

Although it is unlikely that this bit of math eluded you when you made your little joke, I think something else just might have eluded your grasp: you use the scale to track spring rate reduction as you trim the spring... so accuracy means zilch.

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marcopolo
Since my bathroom scale is wrong, and my grinder needs a disc, I'll stand behind Dave and get some Ohlins at the MOA rally... :grin:

 

MB>

 

For $10 you can buy a new bathroom scale or nearly $3000 for a pair of Ohlins shocks.

 

 

I got a set of Ohlins to replace my ESA struts at last summer's MOA rally. The total cost, including installation and and set up by Ohlins USA reps, was just under $2,000 (and that was in $CDN).

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My big debate now is whether to hold of on the Ohlins and put that kind of money towards a newer bike (1200RT) after this fall. By then I'll probably have 75K miles. I got a line on some slightly used shocks from Barry in Marin, so that is a practical option. I might do that anyway for the big summer ride, especially since I'll have my back seat navigator for most of the three week trip.

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