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New tire puncture


Krakken

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I pulled a big staple out of the rear tire on the RT this evening. It's a new tire (300 miles) so naturally the staple penetrated all the way through the carcass and within 10 minutes the tire was was flat. On the plus side, this happened in the garage, so it wasn't a big deal.

 

Has anyone tried this "Ride-On" tire sealant I've heard about? It was recommended by the folks at Brown Motorworks, and they say the LEO's use it in their motors.

 

Would this stuff rectify my current puncture, should I put in a plug, or just scrap the tire and write it off to bad luck?

 

It's a clean puncture; the staple went almost straight in, and it's halfway between the centerline of the tire and the sidewall.

 

I'm open to suggestions....

 

Dwight

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I just had the same type of puncture on my rear tire two weeks ago.

I bought the sticky rope type plugs by Slime and was on my way in about twenty minutes.

I figure 8 or 9 bucks for a patch kit or 150 bucks to replace a tire with 4 or 5 thousand miles of tread left, No brainer.

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I had the same think happen on a new PR2 with 1000 miles. I wrote Michelin a letter and ask if they could help. The did. I got a refund for 1/2 of a new tire.

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I do my own tire changes, so I may just take the tire off and install a patch on the inside of the tire. Would a bicycle type patch work for a pinhole such as this? I guess I'll find out....

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Having it repaired from the inside a good option, but I'd have it done at a tire shop. They'll use an pneumatic buffer to prepare the area, the right glue, and a high quality patch.

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Poster: eddd

Subject: Re: New tire puncture

 

Having it repaired from the inside a good option, but I'd have it done at a tire shop. They'll use an pneumatic buffer to prepare the area, the right glue, and a high quality patch.

 

+1

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Antimatter

Most tires shops locally won't touch a motorcycle tire because of liability concerns. I had a pilot power (for a different bike) that went flat when I ran over a clip from someone's chain. I used an automotive patch from Napa and, when installed following the instructions, lasted the rest of the life of the tire.

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Most tires shops locally won't touch a motorcycle tire because of liability concerns. I had a pilot power (for a different bike) that went flat when I ran over a clip from someone's chain. I used an automotive patch from Napa and, when installed following the instructions, lasted the rest of the life of the tire.

 

+1. Never found one who would touch it.

 

Try this with a Napa plug-patch.

Napa Part # is 7101145. Go to Napa online and search for that number. The cost you'll see is for a box of them but Napa stores sell them individually. It is a rubber patch with an integral plug that is covered with a metal sheath to keep it rigid while inserting thru the hole from the inside of the tire. You pull the sheath off after inserting it. It also has self adhesive but you need to rough up the inside tire surface and apply "universal rubber cement" to the surface and hole and let dry before applying the patch. Since its all one piece, no way for the plug to get blown out. They work!

 

The inside of your tire will have ridges (my PR2 did) so use a wire brush or abrasive wheel in your electric drill to rough it up and remove the ridges.

 

Edit: Be sure to buy a "knitter" at Napa to roll across the patch after installing it. They are cheap little pizza-cutter looking doobies.

 

tirepatch.jpg

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Does somebody make the proper little wheel that goes into the end of an air-powered die grinder or electric drill? Thought I seen one once at a tire shop, and it appeared to be a little, white cotton wheel? I mean to sell to the general public.

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Does somebody make the proper little wheel that goes into the end of an air-powered die grinder or electric drill?

 

Like this?

No experience with this particular product. It was the first Google hit I found.

I will say that you need to be careful using something like this & not over do it.

 

 

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Hi Dwight. I just read this post. The Honda shop near me changes my tires. I got a puncher in a new tire(700 miles). They used a patch from the inside that had little shaft that also went threw the hole. They told me they never had trouble with that method.They won"t patch a hole if it is to far off center. I hope this helps.

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I'm going to stop by NAPA tomorrow to see if they carry the plug that bobbybob suggested. Given the type puncture, it looks like it'll do the trick.

 

Frank, it looks like the same one you are talking about. We'll see how it goes.

 

I ordered another tire this morning, just to be on the safe side. If the patch doesn't work, (or I make a complete hash of the repair job) at least I'll have something available to keep the rim from grinding on the asphalt.

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I'm going to stop by NAPA tomorrow to see if they carry the plug that bobbybob suggested. Given the type puncture, it looks like it'll do the trick.

 

Frank, it looks like the same one you are talking about. We'll see how it goes.

 

I ordered another tire this morning, just to be on the safe side. If the patch doesn't work, (or I make a complete hash of the repair job) at least I'll have something available to keep the rim from grinding on the asphalt.

 

If it's a small hole from a staple,I would not be in favor of reaming a larger hole thru the belts to install a plug or plug/patch.This repair would be best served with a good quality internal patch job.

 

If the hole is in fact larger,then use the plug/patch or the"gooey rope"style plugs such as Monkey Grip,sold in any auto parts store.Get the radial tire version.

I have used the"gooey rope plugs on both MC and cars for thousands of miles with great results.

 

JR356

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WOW!!!!

 

After two pages not one negitive patch post.

 

Perhaps it's a sign of these (hard) times :P

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Not negative but I never patch a tire except to get home. Cheap insurance, to me, but I want two good tires under me, and a patch is not it.

 

Sorry, seem to be the odd man out, but such is life.

 

paul

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I think it's like anything else on a bike that might break. If you're capable of and comfortable with fixing it you fix it. If not you go another way.

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If dying over $100 is something you are comfortable with then by all means....I have changed my own tires for years and am more then "capable" just not willing....

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I understand that some like the peace of mind of a new tire. But has anyone had, or even heard of an inside patch failing?

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Sailorlite

I have never heard of an inside patch failing, and also I've never heard of a rope-type patch failing once it's made it successfully past 100 miles or so.

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Survived-til-now

I have used the BMW do-nut shaped tyre plugs (the ones that came with the bike) on numerous occasions (but only on the rear tyre). The trick is to ream out the hole properly (it should be a snug fit on the reaming tool but not so tight you are pushing the tyre in and out and struggling to move the reamer or you will split the do-nut). Use plenty of the blue gluey stuff when inserting the plug and do not twist the insertion tool when inserting and withdrawing it. A warm tyre also helps a lot (use a hair dryer to warm the tyre if doing this in the garage).

 

The only time it didn't work was when the hole was ragged due to a stone going through (but even then it got me home). When changing the tyres subsequently I have always found a nice mushroom-shape plug on the inside and I have run them for hundreds of miles.

 

I do not like the run flat stuff it could hide a serious puncture and I am not keen on a repair that doesn't have a plug through the hole however small.

 

All that said, it's your call. It is supposed to be a temporary fix and I tend to change repaired tyres early.

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If such a teenie tiny hole from a staple just patch it.

If around 1/16th hole,I got a plug patch to fit that small.

 

*Don't use a grinding wheel/stone* to buff the inner liner on motorcycle tires. The inner liner is very *thin* and the "grinding stone/wheel" is too corse and will buff through the inner liner into the cords before you you can say *$HIT**!!!.

 

Use a wire brush (drill mounted) instead to buff the inner liner.

And then only buff a small area where the patch is to be mounted.

 

Just take it slow and be careful.

 

"Sticky worms" are useful as *temporary repairs* to get you home.

 

From a Shops point of view...More money to be made on selling a new tire than wasting labor on a repair. Ya,still gotta remove and replace the tire,why not speed things up and install a new tire and make a few bucks on the sale.

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We saw plenty of em failing at the shop I worked at years ago. Usually when folks rode in on them and asked us to give our opinion (a slow leak more than an outright failure). However we did actually have a customer die on his way back from Sturgis when a repair he had done failed a few hundred miles down the road (front tire). I understand the desire to fix it (especially if it is brand new) but I just don't think the risk is worth it......

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Survived-til-now
We saw plenty of em failing at the shop I worked at years ago. Usually when folks rode in on them and asked us to give our opinion (a slow leak more than an outright failure). However we did actually have a customer die on his way back from Sturgis when a repair he had done failed a few hundred miles down the road (front tire). I understand the desire to fix it (especially if it is brand new) but I just don't think the risk is worth it......

 

I only use the Tip-Top do-nut plugs as issued by BMW and I think a front tyre is an entirely different matter. I'd only use a plug on a front tyre to get home - and cautiously at that!!!

 

Andy

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10 times outta 10 times the *the installation of the repair" (improperly done) was the culprit and not the "failure" of said patch or plug.

However we did actually have a customer die on his way back from Sturgis when a repair he had done failed .

 

Until the actual report was read of what happened,I'd take it with a grain of salt.

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Tip Top made by Rema (Europe) is a good brand,but an even better product and also made here Stateside is Tech Rubber or Patch Rubber.

Both very equal in quality......work with any three of these products and you'll agree.....puts Rema to shame...

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I understand that some like the peace of mind of a new tire. But has anyone had, or even heard of an inside patch failing?

 

I have.

 

 

It was on a rear that I had just patched using an inside patch with a stem.

Damn patch leaked from the get-go. It was a pinner that required a top off of air once or twice a week.

I figured it was best to leave it as is(was) as it insured I would be vigilant in my pressure checks.

 

That patch lasted many thousands of miles..... until the tire wore out.

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Lets see, I knew him, he was a customer of the shop I worked at and the people that were riding with him were also....heard the first hand account from the folks that were with him when it happened, but what the hey, until I provide a notarized accident report....

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DSCN0352.jpg

 

Hi ya Dwight- looks like I have joined the club also! 2 inch long piece of heavy wire, nice clean puncture. Did the sticky worm repair, seems OK on holding pressure. I don't think I would go on any multi day long rides like this but to work and local day rides....we'll see how the repair holds up

 

 

Don J :wave:

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CoarsegoldKid

The Ducky got a puncture the other day. I did the wormy fix. It lasted a few days of riding. Today it was flat again. I'll place an order for new rubber tomorrow. I don't want the Duc to fly.

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mbelectric

I'd be concerned about the patch adhesion failing in a hot environment. Say riding at triple digit speeds on triple digit tarmac.

 

Anyone know at what temp the glue fails?

 

Another NO patch fan unless to get ya home.

 

MB>

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Survived-til-now
Lets see, I knew him, he was a customer of the shop I worked at and the people that were riding with him were also....heard the first hand account from the folks that were with him when it happened, but what the hey, until I provide a notarized accident report....

 

Well that's good enough for me!

 

Having come out strongly in favour of the repair plugs I have to say it requires a judgement call as to whether the puncture is safely pluggable (size, location, clean or ragged etc). I feel more comfortable about a plugged rear tyre than a front and there is one other important point:

 

If the repair leaks at all - re-do it. I don't like this idea of a repair that slowly leaks and you just keep topping it up (except the slow ride home in an emergency).

 

Andy

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Firstly...it all depends on the type of repair you are using.

As in the common *Sticky Worm*...a piece of soft rubber lubricated to allow introduction into an injury. The so called glue/cement accompanied with said product does nothing but "lube" the injury allowing easier insertion of such repair. Which also lends to the repair just as easily to come out...FAILURE...

 

Now,when using a *Higher Quality Repair" such as Tech Rubber,Patch Rubber and even Rema (TipTop),these said repairs are all constructed with a an outter *cushion gum* surface.

 

When installed with the proper glue/cement(chemical),the cushion gum and chemical react together and the cushion gum *melts* bonding "the repair with the tire" and a chemical cure is achieved. Try pulling one of these repairs apart..

These chemical repairs are the more common repairs now done on most tires.

 

"Heat" actually is a *good thing*, allowing this "Bonding/Repair" to happen more quickly and complete.

 

"Heat/Pressure" repairs are still used today in the repair/retread industry.

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Having come out strongly in favour of the repair plugs I have to say it requires a judgement call as to whether the puncture is safely pluggable (size, location, clean or ragged etc). I feel more comfortable about a plugged rear tyre than a front and there is one other important point:

 

If the repair leaks at all - re-do it. I don't like this idea of a repair that slowly leaks and you just keep topping it up (except the slow ride home in an emergency).

 

Andy

 

Absolutely!!!

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To reply to LongCourseRacer, the patch is not really held in place by an "adhesive". The cement you use softens the top layer of the tire's rubber and the patch has the same stuff sealed underneath the peel-off layer, so when those 2 surfaces come together, they become "one"! Its pretty much impossible to peel them apart--you'd just tear the patch up doing that.

 

I did have an inside patch that leaked very slowly but it was not the plug-patch type. I replaced it with a plug-patch and it was fixed. I have now patched 3 tires with plug-patches--no problems so far.

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I did have an inside patch that leaked very slowly but it was not the plug-patch type. I replaced it with a plug-patch and it was fixed. I have now patched 3 tires with plug-patches--no problems so far.

 

Internal air can find it's way out besides through a rim leak,bad valve stem,or an internal patch/repair.

The area surrounding the patch that was *over buffed*.... "now the inner liner has been removed/gone"(hense WHY a tubeless tire) can permeate air.

After a patch is installed,you apply (below is a photo)

100_1702.jpg

over the patch and the surrounding area. It's like replacing the inner liner that was removed from the buffer.

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To bad Don. Where your tire got the hole is in the spot my honda dealer would not patch. He said the patch that far off center was to iffy and they could"t patch it. My last one, a few years latter was almost on center and they had no problem putting a inside patch on.Good luck with yours.

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Fightingpiper

Only had one flat and that was leaving the John Day Oregon Un. Picked up a roofing staple also, got a lesson on how to plug a tire in the parking lot of the hotel and then proceeded onto west Yellowstone via hwy 12 Lolo Pass that day. Didn't get the tire changed until I returned to Minnesota.

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