Autocom Bike to Bike Radio Question

[Old Racer]

After reading several Autocom posts (mostly Tom B and FlyingFinn) I am getting ready to purchase a pair of Kit SP-A (I was looking at the Kit L-IW). I was also going to get a pair of Kenwood ProTalk 3302 UHF (US Model) 4W. I wanted to bike power the radios and Autocom support informed me they only support the 3301 which is EU only (I believe).

 

Q1. I wanted to get the 4Watt (TK-3302) radio and I was wondering if there is a way to bike power this radio and interface it with the Autocom. Would the Autocom part num 2344 or 2342 & 2356 work on the TK-3202?

 

Q2. Also I was wondering about RF problems that FlyingFinn was talking about. I plan on the radio being on the back of the bikes and the Autocom in a handlebar bag.

 

Q3. What settings do I need my (radio) dealer to program for the proper operation with the SP-A?

 

Although I want to save money were I can, I want the best!!

I thank you, in advance, for your time to help me.

 

[AdirondackJack]

Dear OR,

There is a gentleman on this forum (I don't remember his forum name) but who is also a personal friend of mine who can help you with all these issues. His email address is: adam@rocketmoto.com, and his name is Adam Skoolsky. Naturally, his website address is www.rocketmoto.com. Phone # 1-877-533-4245

 

I can unequivocally recommend him as both a source and an excellent technician with respect to all things electronic- accessory oriented for motorcycles. He is also an Autocom dealer, and you will be able to purchase what you need from him at a competitive price.

 

Feel free to tell him that Dave Reppert recommended you to him, and I'm sure he will be happy to help you.

 

Best Regards,

 

Dave Reppert

[FlyingFinn]

I'm too lazy to dig into the battery eliminator specs, it really comes down to the current draw of 3302 and how much is the 2344 rated for.

These new post-2009 autocom bike-power kits are really good, but you still do need to verify from someone how much current they can supply.

 

As far the RFI problems go, placing the radio few feet away from the Autocom unit is a good idea. Most important thing seems to be that the antenna is kept away from the helmet wires.

 

I spent good amount of time testing and debugging that issue, bottom line was that if too much of the RF signal gets onto the helmet cables (especially the BNS wires) it will make the VOX behave erratic.

One of the worst cases is (exactly what I was trying to do) to mount both Autocom and the radio in a tank bag and have the helmet cable(s) hanging there in very close proximity to the antenna.

It can work but that's the situation most likely to create problems.

 

You don't need any special programming done on the radios to make them work with the Autocom. It's good idea to make sure the radios are programmed with some common set of FRS/GMRS channels (instead of some proprietary commercial channels) so that it's easier to find a common channel with other riders.

 

--

Mikko

 

[Survived-til-now]

 

Q3. What settings do I need my (radio) dealer to program for the proper operation with the SP-A?

 

Although I want to save money were I can, I want the best!!

I thank you, in advance, for your time to help me.

 

I may be way out of date by now because my Kenwood is a Protalk TK-3201 but you asked about programming:

 

I had to go back to Kenwood to have my handset programmed so that when changing channels the channel number is announced over the headset...

 

It's an invaluable feature and I was surprised that it wasn't programmed that way as a default setting. May have changed by now but if you want it you should ask.

 

Andy

[Old Racer]

Adam Skoolsky. Naturally, his website address is www.rocketmoto.com. Phone # 1-877-533-4245

 

I can unequivocally recommend him as both a source and an excellent technician with respect to all things electronic- accessory oriented for motorcycles. He is also an Autocom dealer, and you will be able to purchase what you need from him at a competitive price.

 

Best Regards,

 

Dave Reppert

 

Thanks Dave! I did call him (mentioned your name) and he's working up a quote for me. Very professinal!

 

Cheers!

[Old Racer]

I had to go back to Kenwood to have my handset programmed so that when changing channels the channel number is announced over the headset...

 

It's an invaluable feature and I was surprised that it wasn't programmed that way as a default setting. May have changed by now but if you want it you should ask.

 

Andy

 

Great Tip Thanks!!

[Old Racer]

As far the RFI problems go, placing the radio few feet away from the Autocom unit is a good idea. Most important thing seems to be that the antenna is kept away from the helmet wires.

 

I spent good amount of time testing and debugging that issue, bottom line was that if too much of the RF signal gets onto the helmet cables (especially the BNS wires) it will make the VOX behave erratic.

One of the worst cases is (exactly what I was trying to do) to mount both Autocom and the radio in a tank bag and have the helmet cable(s) hanging there in very close proximity to the antenna.

It can work but that's the situation most likely to create problems.

 

You don't need any special programming done on the radios to make them work with the Autocom. It's good idea to make sure the radios are programmed with some common set of FRS/GMRS channels (instead of some proprietary commercial channels) so that it's easier to find a common channel with other riders.

 

--

Mikko

 

Thanks for responding!!

I value your expertise!!

 

[TestPilot]

After reading several Autocom posts (mostly Tom B and FlyingFinn) I am getting ready to purchase a pair of Kit SP-A (I was looking at the Kit L-IW). I was also going to get a pair of Kenwood ProTalk 3302 UHF (US Model) 4W. I wanted to bike power the radios and Autocom support informed me they only support the 3301 which is EU only (I believe).

 

Old Racer,

 

Be advised that the Kenwood TK-3302 operates in the Private Land Mobile radio frequency band. These are not open frequencies. Licensing by the FCC is required prior to use of these frequencies. Depending on the frequencies used, licenses can cost up to $460. A better choice would be something operating in the FRS spectrum.

 

Karl, W2KTH

[bobbybob]

Why do you want the 4 watt radio? More range? You will most likely be disappointed in range, because the terrain/conditions are the real bottleneck for range, not power. A 1 watt Kenwood TK3131 (FRS/GMRS--I have 2 of them) will have more range than you'll ever need. Unless you have an unusual requirement. IN fact, I generally set it to "low-power" (1/2 watt) and I have never run out of range when riding in a group, except when separated several miles or in the mountains--AND the rechargeable battery will last for 2 full days of riding and yakking! At first I was going to find a 12V battery eliminator but decided it was much easier to use the battery pack.

 

Transmission power is vastly overrated. The quality of the signal & the audio is more important.

[krussell]

 

Transmission power is vastly overrated. The quality of the signal & the audio is more important.

 

And if you really want to extend your range, your first approach should be a decent externally mounted antenna, then more radio power.

[bobbybob]

And if you really want to extend your range, your first approach should be a decent externally mounted antenna, then more radio power.

 

Exactly--pushing 4 watts of tx thru a 3" long rubber ducky doesn't buy much extra range--if any.

[Old Racer]

Thanks for the info on the radio power I will bump it down (model), save money on the radios that I can put into other toys. I just got a zumo 660 for phone and mp3.

 

Everyone has been so helpful I realy appreciate it!!!!

[AdirondackJack]

Isn't it great. I love it when a plan comes together! Best of luck with your audio plan. I doubt there's not much that one of us here has not either experienced or heard about. Regards, Dave R.