LED Brake Flasher...of Death...Install Procedures

[markgoodrich]

A friend (Buckster) is a wizard at wiring and lighting ideas. I wanted more brake light conspicuity, and am unimpressed with Hyper-Lites and other little LED bars. Buckster lent me a Whelen 400 Series LightHead to try. My worry now is that I’ll get rear-ended because I’ve blinded everyone behind me up to a mile away. This thing is so bright it’s impossible to explain in words, and photos wash out. You see these lights on ambulances, cop cars, etc. The following description of the installation is mine only; Buckster would have done it in 1/10th the time, more elegantly, and with aplomb. But I ain’t Buckster, so herewith is my approach.

 

 

ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE PROJECT:

 

One BMW R1200RT motorcycle [the mounting hardware is particular to this brand and model motorcycle, but the wiring should be the same for any motorcycle, and the mounting can likely be modified to fit the dimensions of another brand or model motorcycle]

 

One Whelen Engineering 400 Series Lighthead, red or clear lens

 

Wire loom (flexible conduit), approximately 20”

 

One length 18 ga. wire, red, approx. 20”

 

One length 18 ga. wire, black, approx. 20”

 

One M4 (4mm) machine screw, 60 mm long

 

Two M4 machine screws, 45 mm long

 

Two M4 machine screws, about half as long as 45 mm (or get four 45s and cut two off later)

 

Eight M4 nuts

 

Two quick connect adapters, also known as jumpers, single female to dual male, sized to fit spade connectors on brake light bulb housing (Radio Shack PN 64-3064)

 

Two male quick connect “plugs” sized to fit same bulb housing, for 18 ga. wire

 

Two washers, small. Make it three. You may not need them.

 

One ¼” by .140 x 1 nylon spacer, or equivalent.

 

One rubber grommet, large enough to fish three wires through.

 

Soldering iron, solder

 

Heat shrink tubing

 

TOOLS NEEDED TO COMPLETE PROJECT:

 

One rubber mallet, large

 

One phillips screwdriver

 

One drill

 

One drill bit, very slightly larger than 4mm diameter

 

Wire cutter/stripper suitable for 18 ga. wire (Klein brand recommended)

 

One torpedo level

 

Extra vehicle for going to hardware store/Lowe’s

 

One bourbon, one scotch, and one beer (optional; since I don’t drink I just sang the song)

 

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

 

Pick up rubber mallet. Hit self in head one time. Give it a good whack.

 

Remove license plate bracket and turn upside down. Replace bracket using only lower bracket holes in fender. Consider turning license plate right side up.

 

Position LightHead above upside down bracket, insuring it is level by using third arm to hold torpedo level on top of lighthead; alternatively, snarl at wife for not holding level properly. Insert pencil into lower holes and mark position for drilling.

 

Drill holes, using bit specified. Do not drill holes in rear tire.

 

 

Remove LightHead lens and set aside. Note two holes approximately diagonal from each other, with protrusions to rear. These are vent holes to allow condensation to escape. Insert 60 mm machine screw in upper right vent hole. Do not come crying to me if the unit becomes permanently fogged up; the guy at Whelen told me it was okay to do this.

 

Take LightHead unit to well-lighted work area (did you step on the lens and crack it? Hit self in head with mallet. Hard. Replacement lenses are $15) and screw nylon spacer all the way onto the machine screw which you inserted into the vent hole.

 

Replace lens and insert two 45 mm screws into lower holes. You bought the wrong size screw heads, didn’t you? Hit self in head with rubber mallet, and return to Lowe’s in spare vehicle. This time take the LightHead with you, Einstein.

 

Insert two shorter screws in upper lens holes, or cut off longer screws at some point before finishing. Apply nuts to all four screws and tighten lens down, using Loc-Tite or similar goop. You must put TWO nuts on the lower right screw to equal spacing of vent hole extension at rear of unit. similar goop. If you tighten too much and lens cracks, perform Rubber Mallet procedure.

 

 

Now, insert lower screws into holes drilled into fender. Level unit. Mark position of long screw and drill hole.

 

See the two plastic expando thingies that the license plate bracket screwed into? Remove and set aside. At this point you must decide whether to use one of these two holes to fish LightHead wires through, or drill a ½” hole directly behind the center of the LightHead. Rubber grommet(s) will be required to prevent chafing of wires.

 

Strip ¼” off extra lengths of black and red wires and heat soldering gun. Apply heated tip of gun to index finger of one hand, to get that part out of the way, then solder new wires to LightHead wires, and cover with heat shrink tubing. Is your tubing too small? Too large? Rubber Mallet Procedure, Spare Vehicle Maneuver.

 

Remove tail light lens assembly; let it hang, or support it in some fashion. Remove either brake light bulb assembly, remove the two connectors, noting which one the brown wire is on, and attach the jumpers purchased at Radio Shack. Reattach the brake wires to their proper sides. Test your LightHead by touching red and black wires to the “extra” jumpers with ignition on. Black wire goes on the brown wire side. Lighthead and brake lights should light up, and LightHead should give a SignalAlert, then go steady (see link to programming instructions in notes at end). If the LightHead does not light up, you did something wrong. I have no idea what, worked fine for me. It’s your problem. Try Rubber Mallet Procedure.

 

Assuming LightHead lit, fish wires through hole in fender, insert the three screws through the holes you drilled, finger tighten nuts onto bottom screws, and do the same for the top screw, the one with the nylon spacer. The spacer should, if you positioned everything right, keep the LightHead vertical. It is your responsibility to jigger things around until it’s level. Tighten nuts, using blue Loc-Tite or similar goop. [Note: you may have to carve up the inside of the fender a tiny bit to get the nuts to tighten down.]

 

Insert wiring into wire loom, and fish up into the back side of the tail light lens housing (back end of the bike). Wire loom may need some coaxing.

 

Ascertain a proper length for the red and black wires, so that when the tail light assembly is removed, as it is right now, it will hand like it is, right now. Cut the excess off and attach the female spade connectors with a crimping tool, or solder if you prefer. Stick them on the “extra” jumper connectors. Test brake light. If it works, and the LightHead works, you’re golden. Put the lens assembly back on. Stand back and admire work. [Note in the photos below the LightHead is not level. This was done on purpose to show you the importance of getting it level. No, really.]

 

 

NOTES:

 

1. The LightHead is programmable a number of ways, but the only two which are legal, I think, are steady on, or SignalAlert, then steady (several quick flashes, then steady). Program it BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE. You can use any 12V hot and ground source to program it. Instructions here: http://www.whelen.com/install/136/13660.pdf

 

2. The heads are available used all over ebay, for fraction of retail. Just search for Whelen LED.

 

3. On my bike, the only alert I get is a split-second bulb-out notification, and I believe that is related to a third-party flasher I have, rather than the Whelen unit. There is no yellow triangle annoyance.

 

4. This installation does not use the Whelen as a tail light, on purpose. The sudden flashes then steady from completely dark will be more noticeable, I think.

 

5. If you test the unit with the lens off, or have the clear lens, wear a welder’s mask. These things are super, duper bright.

 

6. I am certain there are more elegant ways to install this setup, but this appears quite solid. If you do this and it falls off or burns your bike up, stop and consider the fact that you followed my advice, and then perform, of course, the Rubber Mallet Procedure repeatedly.

 

7. You certainly don’t have to use metric screws; that’s just what I came across first, looking for something that would fit.

 

[11101110]

Whelen does make a 400 series brake light that will not blind those behind you. 40R00XRR is the model number. I have two of the 500 series on my RTP and they are the same series the police strobes were. Mechanically they were plug and play. The Whelen brake lights are DOT certified thus you cannot be ticketed for having it on your bike. They also flash four time before becoming steady burning when the brakes are applied.

 

http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/details_prod.php?head_id=12&cat_id=74&prod_id=115

 

there is also a mounting flange for the 400 series 4FLANGEB but you probably don't need it for you application.

 

PS I bet you could fit a 700 series on there

[comstockrider]

Mark of Austin,

Simpley outstanding I had tears rolling down my cheeks. Now you need to add in the Nautilus air horns and if ya don't blind em, ya kin scare the begeezes out of them with those things. Mine are due in tomarrow. Hope to have them mounted and terrorising the wild horses over the weekend. Any thing but the annemic meep meep I have now. Being seen and heard in a time of danger. The MC'rs anthem.

[markgoodrich]

Technical Service Bulletin #BlindemInstall-1-mallet:

 

Perform Rubber Mallet Procedure

 

Remove completed assembly

 

Add small washer behind lower right screw's double-nut assembly (squeeze nuts tightly together), between nuts and fender

 

Insert unit back into holes. Add small washers to three screws, from inside fender

 

Replace nuts, hand tighten, add Loc-Tite

 

Using torpedo level, carefully tighten three nuts

 

Nuts washer provides adequate spacing to level unit (insert ribald comment here).

 

 

[effexer1]

Or at least mount the license plate crooked to align with the new light... (is this a ribald comment???)

[markgoodrich]

Or at least mount the license plate crooked to align with the new light... (is this a ribald comment???)

 

Ribald? Only if you have some physical attraction to license plates you have not divulged.

[DaveTheAffable]

No CANBUS issues?

[markgoodrich]

No issues, Dave. It's difficult for me to say with dead certainty that you won't see ANY warnings, such as the bulb-out icon, because in addition to the unit described, I have another, third party flasher which has been on the bike for more than a year, which flashes the factory brake light, and now the new LED as well. IT, the third party item, does cause a split-second bulb-out icon to appear every few flashes, and very rarely the yellow triangle comes on, again for a split second. I never, ever notice it unless I'm looking directly at the display...i.e. in the garage. The new LED has not, well, led to any additional warning symbols. Bike starts and runs, final drive has not caught fire, so I think I'm good...

 

EDIT: you do NOT need the third party flasher; since it was on the bike, I kept it...easier than fooling with more wiring. The flasher was a prototype, never put into production, by Kriss Industries.

[TestPilot]

The Whelen brake lights are DOT certified thus you cannot be ticketed for having it on your bike.

 

DOT doen not certify anything. The manufacturer states that his or her product meets DOT specifications based on in-house testing. If the manufacturer gets it wrong, you are still liable for any tickets.

[markgoodrich]

Gave the setup a good test today, couple hundred miles of bumpy, squiggly back roads, did not fall off, neither did the LED setup. Riding buddy really likes the way it lights up, says it's MUCH more visible. He, like I, prefer it to be just the brake light. Buckster, the wizard friend who put me onto this idea, would prefer it to be a tail light, too. I think it's much more noticeable when it lights up from "nothing."

 

I noticed several cars behind me visibly slowed more as they approached me when I hit the brake light.

[eddd]

 

 

I added the LED license bracket when I first got the bike, and it works well. But can you ever have enough light?

 

I recently added the round LED as a combination tail/stop. The output of light is very impressive. I tried to get some good pictures, but the output of light overwhelms my point and shoot.

[TrickLidz]

Would love to do this upgrade....BUT...searching, EBay, etc, etc, could find best price of $70 plus shipping. Would like to get it slightly cheaper if possible!! Anyone got a connection on a used one???

[markgoodrich]

Just sign into your ebay account, and search for Whelen LED, and save the search for "X" days, checking email notification if that's an option, and be patient. One will come along shortly. Do the same search and spell it 'Whelan', too. You'll get a lot of wrong hits, but like I said, patience.

[markgoodrich]

Just sign into your ebay account, and search for Whelen LED, and save the search for "X" days, checking email notification if that's an option, and be patient. One will come along shortly. Do the same search and spell it 'Whelan', too. You'll get a lot of wrong hits, but like I said, patience.

[pokorskij]

OK, I know the light works as I ordered on a temp. hooked it up. I have two questions.

 

The only flash pattern that flashes and ends up steady is the Signal Alert to steady. All of the others keep repeating, correct?

 

Second, why does this light work only when the brakes are applied (I might know why, but would be guessing a lot. The bulbs are single filament, so how does this light know not to shine, even at half the light level with the running lights, and then bright with the brakes?

 

Seems a few companies have been trying to make a light that would work with the CanBus, but they seem overly complicated with additional resistors etc. while this one seems to understand to only go on with the brake system.

 

Thanks.

 

I had Hyperlights, liked them, but as it turns out they have stopped their flash pattern which I discovered when testing the Whelen light. And the Whelen is much better, and I can still use the Hyperlights as running and stop light, they just don't flash, which is alright since the Whelen has a different flash pattern and I don't want to confuse the cagers with too many signals.

 

Thanks again for finding and sharing this light.

 

By the way attached it slightly differently. Turned license plate bracket upside down, but them made a mounting plate for the light out of aluminum and used the two existing hole in the plastic fender to mount the plate, then mounted the plate to the Whelen light. Didn't have to make any new holes other than for the wire, and that was already there from the Hyperlights.

 

When time permits I will try to post a few pictures.

[markgoodrich]

OK, I know the light works as I ordered on a temp. hooked it up. I have two questions.

 

The only flash pattern that flashes and ends up steady is the Signal Alert to steady. All of the others keep repeating, correct?

 

CORRECT

 

Second, why does this light work only when the brakes are applied (I might know why, but would be guessing a lot. The bulbs are single filament, so how does this light know not to shine, even at half the light level with the running lights, and then bright with the brakes?

 

MAGIC? I DUNNO

 

Seems a few companies have been trying to make a light that would work with the CanBus, but they seem overly complicated with additional resistors etc. while this one seems to understand to only go on with the brake system.

 

Thanks.

 

I had Hyperlights, liked them, but as it turns out they have stopped their flash pattern which I discovered when testing the Whelen light. And the Whelen is much better, and I can still use the Hyperlights as running and stop light, they just don't flash, which is alright since the Whelen has a different flash pattern and I don't want to confuse the cagers with too many signals.

 

Thanks again for finding and sharing this light.I GUESS YOU MISSED THE PART ABOUT FAXING ME $100 IF IT WORKS?

 

 

 

By the way attached it slightly differently. Turned license plate bracket upside down, but them made a mounting plate for the light out of aluminum and used the two existing hole in the plastic fender to mount the plate, then mounted the plate to the Whelen light. Didn't have to make any new holes other than for the wire, and that was already there from the Hyperlights.

 

YOUR WARRANTY IS VOID

 

When time permits I will try to post a few pictures.

 

Actually, I can't take credit for anything other than the Rube Goldberg attaching 'design'. We should thank Buckster for the concept.

[Polo]

Thanks again for finding and sharing this light.I GUESS YOU MISSED THE PART ABOUT FAXING ME $100 IF IT WORKS?

 

Gimme your fax number.

[pokorskij]

Be sure to share the payment I sent you with Buckster than, OK?

[markgoodrich]

Be sure to share the payment I sent you with Buckster than, OK?

 

Heck, no. Did he bother to post, take photos, write instruction manual, send out TSB?

[philbytx]

Nice Mark

But I thought it easier to simply ignore my rear-end paranoia ()and, thusly, reduce my stress levels and, more importantly, save a few bucks .

[Indy Dave]

 

When time permits I will try to post a few pictures.

 

 

[BerndM]

Great write up but I am severely confused about the electrical hookup.

Since the RT uses PCM (pulse code modulation) to supply FULL 12 Volts at ALL times to the bulbs, why doesn't the Whelen light up and STAY lit continuously as long as the key is on???

Are the LEDs in the Whelen capable of being modulated at 50% for tail light use and then go full bright when the modulation increases to 100% for brake light use? Obviously this works fine for the 1156 bulbs the RT uses, but how do the LEDs reaspond to this PCM control?

Thanks!

[JayW]

I have no intention of installing one of these things (I only own a rubber mallet, small), but reading your instructions was a great start to my day nonetheless.

 

Jay

[markgoodrich]

Great write up but I am severely confused about the electrical hookup.

Since the RT uses PCM (pulse code modulation) to supply FULL 12 Volts at ALL times to the bulbs, why doesn't the Whelen light up and STAY lit continuously as long as the key is on???

Are the LEDs in the Whelen capable of being modulated at 50% for tail light use and then go full bright when the modulation increases to 100% for brake light use? Obviously this works fine for the 1156 bulbs the RT uses, but how do the LEDs reaspond to this PCM control?

Thanks!

 

Bernd, you mistake me for someone who knows something. I have slept many times since I installed the unit. If I remember correctly, there is one OEM bulb (actually two, but they're wired the same), but two wires, one for tail, one for brake ( think the brown one is the brake circuit). I simply attached the jumper to the brake side. It only gets power when the brakes are applied. Brightens the OEM bulb(s) and fires the LED.

 

If this is wrong, be assured someone will step into the breach. And I will then apply the mallet procedure.

 

I have put several thousand miles on the bike since the install, and nothing has fallen off. I'm convinced it makes a difference. When I'm tailgated I touch the brakes, and the other vehicle almost always backs away immediately. In stop and go traffic, at lights, I apply the brakes repeatedly as cars approach. I frequently see heads pop up from looking down at their phones.

 

Edd's post up above shows yet another, similar setup, but he uses his as a tail light AND brake light. I followed him for awhile last week. The tail light is a BIG improvement over the puny 1100 OEM lights, but as with most LED systems being used for tail/brake, I have difficulty discerning difference in brightness when the brakes are applied in daylight. At night, the difference is dramatic. Edd's deal was pretty cheap, by the way.

[LPOL]

Whelen also makes a 600 series Brake/Tail/Turn (4.125 x 6.500) that has lots of LEDS (152) and almost matches the size of the license plate. 2 Flash patterns.

 

Need to install at current License Plate location to get proper viewing angle from behind. Position immediately under license plate is too sloped upwards to be seen at a reasonable following distance.

 

Product Link:

http://www.whelen.com/_AUTOMOTIVE/details_prod.php?head_id=12&cat_id=74&prod_id=126

 

60R00XRR is the model (2nd one down from the top)

 

Install guide:

http://www.whelen.com/install/136/13650.pdf

 

More pictures when mine arrives/installed on Tuesday 8/9.