E30TECH Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 I synced the TBs tonight with the TM and a pair of matched vacuum gauges. I found that both were just as accurate. The TM is easier (IMHO) to use on the road. However, the zero knob is a real PITFA. It would be nice if it was smaller or had more resistance so it didn't get bumped so easily. Because of this, the vacuum gauges are easier to use. I am using 1/8" SS tubing as 'nipples'. I thought the restriction would be enough to snub the gauges,, but it wasn't. I may end up putting 1/16" SS tubing between the 1/4" and 1/8" sections. I could also have an orifice machined and pressed into the the 1/4" (AN) -> 1/8" (swage) adapter. I cleaned off the BBAS and replaced the orings. One of the orings had a nice gash in it. For the most part, the needle stayed on zero, but there are a few spots in the 5K range that the needle pulled slightly to one side. Up at 6K, it was centered again. I'm not sure what causes this, but the bike seems to run smoother. This is my 3rd sync on this bike. Link to comment
boatzo Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Did you do a valve adjust as well? Link to comment
E30TECH Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 I figured I'd get asked that question. I adjusted them about 5K ago to the nominal spec. I also adjusted the throttle cable last time as well. Since I only have 1K on this oil change, I wasn't going to do the valve adjust this time. Link to comment
NonComp Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 Wow. And I thought I was kidding! Link to comment
mikenh Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 How much difference is ok in the air adjustment screws on the throttle bodies? Link to comment
Selden Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 If you need more than a half turn difference, consider removing the BBS on both sides and cleaning both screws and the bore with carb cleaner. The air passage cokes up rather easily with carbon. Last winter, my left was at 1.5 turns; right at .5 turn. After cleaning, virtually identical settings. Link to comment
NonComp Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 And you may need to fish a small, solid core wire (with insulation on) down the hole at the end of the port to clear it if it is totally plugged (mine was). Link to comment
mikenh Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Will give cleaning a shot this afternoon Other problem is I couldnt get the .006 volts. I could only get .007 volts. Link to comment
NonComp Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 Maybe you should start a new thread on this. Link to comment
Ian Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Will give cleaning a shot this afternoon Other problem is I couldnt get the .006 volts. I could only get .007 volts. which is typical. Don't try to force lower or you might break the TPS. regards, Ian Link to comment
Peter Parts Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Izzat some kind of metric volts? I thought the setting was .47 or .047 volts? Ben Link to comment
AndyS Posted September 16, 2010 Share Posted September 16, 2010 Yep, I am no expert on the 1100 but the lower voltage range is in the order of 0.370 - 0.400 volts at idle to a smooth increase with throttle to 4.77 volts at about 1/3 throttle opening. (to quote Rob Lentini). So mikenh you are a factor of a decade out. Andy Link to comment
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