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Adjusted boots vs. lowering an RT. BIG win.


VinnyR11

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If your bike feels too tall, try this first...

 

Many on this forum mentioned adding to the height of your motorcycle boots to better reach the ground. Well it works like a charm.

 

I added an additional 1/2" to the soles of my BMW boots. I also had the repairman contour the sole area that contacts the pegs so that I could keep the bend of my knee virtually the same as before.

 

I'm no longer looking at the expense of lowering the bike or swapping out seats which each have their drawbacks.

 

The total cost was 55 bucks and one of the best investments I've made, plus there is no noticeable difference walking in the taller boots.

 

Thanks much to those who mentioned this fix.

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I am planning on doing that along with lowering the bike 1 inch and switching to a low seat. This should get me 2 inches which means a I will be able to get the balls of my feet on the ground but still not be able to flat foot the bike.

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CoarsegoldKid
I am planning on doing that along with lowering the bike 1 inch and switching to a low seat. This should get me 2 inches which means a I will be able to get the balls of my feet on the ground but still not be able to flat foot the bike.

I think I'd mod the bike first. Because if must do it anyway at least your boots won't be so thick and heavy.

The thicker the sole material the less able to bend the foot at the metatarsal heads. Anything more than a half inch and you start to get a very firm sole. What may happen is you can get the toes pointed down to touch ground but not get them flat. If you want the heal on the ground that will take a lot of material and maybe some other mods.

Also if adding very think soles as Ed has done if you can get the person doing the job to provide a bit of a rocker sole it will be easier to walk in them thus maintaining a normal gait pattern. Additionally it is normal for a person to have one leg longer than the other. I've seen it many times. So if you are going to add sole material you might as well have less on the longer side.

If I were doing this I'd also do the sole in layers not more than 3/16 inch thick so they can be removed if necessary one at a time.

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Ed, are those your back-up braking system? :D

 

No, but that is an idea. :thumbsup:

 

The boots belong to Dawn, a rider out of the Dallas area that came to one of Limecreek's Tech-daze a few years back.

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I'm interested in the thick sole idea. BUT with some reservation.

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The thicker soles seems fine when using the brake.

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But with the thick sole how can you position the toe below the shift lever???

And conversely, if you cut a notch in the bottom of the sole for the foot peg, how can you then position your toe above the shift lever?

Please advise

 

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You'll be surprised by the effect of a modest shortening of the shocks combined with a low-seat option ... you may find that there is no need to add anything to your boot soles.

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You'll be surprised by the effect of a modest shortening of the shocks combined with a low-seat option ... you may find that there is no need to add anything to your boot soles.

 

Yes, but the cost of my boots were 55 dollars, took 15 minutes of my time, and I still have no issues with a new seat nor ride height. Aside from the cost it's also much, much simpler IMHO.

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I'm interested in the thick sole idea. BUT with some reservation.

-

The thicker soles seems fine when using the brake.

-

But with the thick sole how can you position the toe below the shift lever???

And conversely, if you cut a notch in the bottom of the sole for the foot peg, how can you then position your toe above the shift lever?

Please advise

 

Good questions. I had the same reservation about getting under the shift lever. I had previously added peg lowering kits for myself and my wife. One reason being was that I found it very difficult to comfortably position my toe under the shift lever in the standard configuration. So,for the reasons you state, adding the height to my soles was a cause for concern. I figured I'd be able to adjust the shift lever if necessary; however, it was not necessary. The shift lever feels very comfortable after the addition to my boot.

 

Regarding downshifts.... After the peg lowering kit I always had to slightly raise my foot to downshift. I'm totally used to this now, and the addition to the sole still seems very natural. Keep in mind that I only added 1/2". I would prefer to have my shift lever a bit lower, but the added benefit of the increased reach that my boots give me far outweighs this.

 

I think things could change radically if you start adding very thick soles.

 

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