StriderWalker Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 I'm about to purchase a fuse box for my '09 R1200RT. I intend run from it my iPhone, my Garmin (both of which are now directly wired to the battery), and eventually a V-1 and a lead for a heated jacket. Recommendations for either Fuzeblock or Centech or another? Any advice that will help me avoid doing anything stupid (at least related to this project)? Link to comment
cali_beemer Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 I just wired the Centech AP-1 to my 04 RT. I ended up buying the centech relay wire harness. It was fairly simple and stright forward. I have my PIAA lights wired to it and my garmin GPS. I will probably end up adding a powerlet to the dash somewhere to plug in my iphone. I cant compare it to others but I would give this product a 2 thumbs up. Eventually I will get a heated jacket. I think I will modify the powerlet outlet from BMW to be controlled by the gerbings dash mount controller. I should note I used the Centech simply becasue I was given a brand new unit with the bike.....so I didnt shop around. Link to comment
ltljohn Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Take a look at Eastern Beaver lots of choices, well made products. No affiliation just a satisfied customer. Link to comment
JR356 Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 http://www.aerostich.com/powerpak-power-distribution-module-pdm60.html Good discussion here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638076 JR356 Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Definitely recommend Eastern Beaver. Here's a thread from 18 months ago when I installed mine on my '09 RT. Link to comment
Turf man Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 EasternBeaver all the way. JFF, kit now comes with a Posi tap. Thanks for the great thread and pictures. TM Link to comment
tcshooter Posted December 28, 2010 Share Posted December 28, 2010 Got the Easter Beaver on the K1300GT, think its a great design. Link to comment
John Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 I have the Eastern Beaver product also. What a top quality piece of gear! Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Practically free, identical function: http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=25 Link to comment
StriderWalker Posted December 29, 2010 Author Share Posted December 29, 2010 Sounds like Eastern Beaver is my choice. I went to their website and determined it is a top quality product. I had no idea about it before asking... That's one reason I love this board. Thanks everyone for sharing your experience! Link to comment
TJRL Posted December 30, 2010 Share Posted December 30, 2010 I would go with the Fuzeblock, as it has the relay built in AND has the option of being ignition switched / unswitched on each circuit (just by moving the fuse about). I have 2 Fuzeblocks fitted to my R1200RT (oh yes I have fitted a lot of bits!!) Link to comment
Nesbocaj Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 Eastern Beaver is great to deal with! But this time I went with the Aerostich unit. Look Ma, no more fuses! (except the charger pigtail) It is mounted under the passenger seat with 3M Duo-lock at the moment................ Link to comment
dwightm Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 But this time I went with the Aerostich unit. Look Ma, no more fuses! (except the charger pigtail) It is mounted under the passenger seat with 3M Duo-lock at the moment................ I did the same thing and have had it installed since October. Motolights and Starcom were a snap to wire in.... Garmin to be added over the winter. Link to comment
RocketMoto Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 It all depends on what you plan to connect to the fuse panel... The Eastern Beaver fuse panel has more taps, is rated for more current per circuit, and in-total than the Fuzeblock. The design of the Fuzeblock is slick - we've installed lots of them. Each circuit is rated at just 10amps, so high-powered lights or running heated clothing full-blast could exceed that capacity. The Aerostich PDM-60 is an interesting concept - and we've yet to have one to work with. Each circuit is rated at 10Amps, as well. A device, when it powers on, can draw substantially more current for an instant. If your device is close to the 10Amp limit, that could cause the device to be disabled by the PDM-60's logic. On the ADV forum it sounds like a couple of folks have had this happen, so far. I almost forgot... the Centech. A few years ago, it was all that was available - so we used 'em. No more; Who puts a metal cover on a fuse panel, anyway? To us, any of the three above options are superior. Link to comment
Nesbocaj Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 As below: 3x 15 amps and 3x 5 amps- for the PDM-60 1 Blue (-) External switch-controlable ground input - connect to ground (using a switch is optional). 18 AWG 8 Gray (+) Connect to positive side of battery or 12V source controlled by ignition. 18 AWG 2 Orange (+) 15 Amps Ignition 180 seconds 14 AWG 3 Brown (+) 5 Amps Ignition None - Instant Off 18 AWG 4 Red (+) 15 Amps Ignition None - Instant Off 14 AWG 5 Yellow (+) 5 Amps Ignition None - Instant Off 18 AWG 6 Purple (+) 5 Amps Ignition 180 Seconds 18 AWG 7 White (+) 15 Amps Externally Switched None - Instant Off 14 AWG Red (+) Power Lead Black (-) Ground Lead Link to comment
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