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Fuzeblock or Centech or...???


StriderWalker

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StriderWalker

I'm about to purchase a fuse box for my '09 R1200RT. I intend run from it my iPhone, my Garmin (both of which are now directly wired to the battery), and eventually a V-1 and a lead for a heated jacket. Recommendations for either Fuzeblock or Centech or another? Any advice that will help me avoid doing anything stupid (at least related to this project)?

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I just wired the Centech AP-1 to my 04 RT. I ended up buying the centech relay wire harness. It was fairly simple and stright forward. I have my PIAA lights wired to it and my garmin GPS. I will probably end up adding a powerlet to the dash somewhere to plug in my iphone. I cant compare it to others but I would give this product a 2 thumbs up. Eventually I will get a heated jacket. I think I will modify the powerlet outlet from BMW to be controlled by the gerbings dash mount controller.

 

I should note I used the Centech simply becasue I was given a brand new unit with the bike.....so I didnt shop around.

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StriderWalker

Sounds like Eastern Beaver is my choice. I went to their website and determined it is a top quality product. I had no idea about it before asking... That's one reason I love this board. Thanks everyone for sharing your experience!

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I would go with the Fuzeblock, as it has the relay built in AND has the option of being ignition switched / unswitched on each circuit (just by moving the fuse about).

 

I have 2 Fuzeblocks fitted to my R1200RT (oh yes I have fitted a lot of bits!!)

 

 

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Eastern Beaver is great to deal with! But this time I went with the Aerostich unit. Look Ma, no more fuses! (except the charger pigtail)

 

It is mounted under the passenger seat with 3M Duo-lock at the moment................

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But this time I went with the Aerostich unit. Look Ma, no more fuses! (except the charger pigtail)

 

It is mounted under the passenger seat with 3M Duo-lock at the moment................

 

I did the same thing and have had it installed since October. :)

 

Motolights and Starcom were a snap to wire in.... Garmin to be added over the winter.

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It all depends on what you plan to connect to the fuse panel...

 

The Eastern Beaver fuse panel has more taps, is rated for more current per circuit, and in-total than the Fuzeblock.

 

The design of the Fuzeblock is slick - we've installed lots of them. Each circuit is rated at just 10amps, so high-powered lights or running heated clothing full-blast could exceed that capacity.

 

The Aerostich PDM-60 is an interesting concept - and we've yet to have one to work with. Each circuit is rated at 10Amps, as well. A device, when it powers on, can draw substantially more current for an instant. If your device is close to the 10Amp limit, that could cause the device to be disabled by the PDM-60's logic. On the ADV forum it sounds like a couple of folks have had this happen, so far.

 

I almost forgot... the Centech. A few years ago, it was all that was available - so we used 'em. No more; Who puts a metal cover on a fuse panel, anyway? To us, any of the three above options are superior.

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As below: 3x 15 amps and 3x 5 amps- for the PDM-60

 

1 Blue (-) External switch-controlable ground input - connect to ground (using a switch is optional). 18 AWG

8 Gray (+) Connect to positive side of battery or 12V source controlled by ignition. 18 AWG

2 Orange (+) 15 Amps Ignition 180 seconds 14 AWG

3 Brown (+) 5 Amps Ignition None - Instant Off 18 AWG

4 Red (+) 15 Amps Ignition None - Instant Off 14 AWG

5 Yellow (+) 5 Amps Ignition None - Instant Off 18 AWG

6 Purple (+) 5 Amps Ignition 180 Seconds 18 AWG

7 White (+) 15 Amps Externally Switched None - Instant Off 14 AWG

Red (+) Power Lead

Black (-) Ground Lead

 

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