Autocom Noise

[Steve Kolenda]

I am having a noise issue with my newly installed Autocom Super Pro Automatic on my 2011 R1200RT.

First, let me say that I have contacted the distributor that I purchased the unit from and he has offered to do whatever it takes to find the problem. My only issue is that I might not be able to get there for several weeks so I thought I would try a post here to see if anyone else has had the same problem.

The Autocom is powered through a Fuzeblock that is connected directly to the battery. The only external connection is to my Zumo 665 through the Aux 3 port on the Autocom. I am using earbuds with my headset. I am using the bluetooth on the Zumo for my phone. I am also using the XM on the Zumo.

When I turn the Autocom on without the bike running everything appears to work fine and when I start the bike audio from the Zumo is clear but when I speak as if I was going to converse with my passenger there is a swirling noise that appears to increase with RPM. I assuming alternator noise.

To troubleshoot this I have disconnected the Zumo from the Autocom and the noise is still there. The Autocom is mounted in the tail section. I have moved the unit out of the tail section and the noise is still there. I have tried powering the Autocom from a separate source (lawn mower battery) and the noise is still there. Any suggestions?

[Whip]

Ground Loop Isolator

[Steve Kolenda]

Whip,

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Please explain. The noise is there even when I am not connected to the bikes electrical system.

[Whip]

I can't explain. I ain't smart enough.

 

 

I just know I had the same problem and someone from this board sent me one and the problem went away.

 

 

 

Maybe one of the smart guys will jump in.

 

 

[bobbybob]

Steve, email Bryan McGuire at Autocom Direct. He will know the solution. Be sure to tell him the facts, i.e. it still happens when powered externally with the Zumo dis-connected, and which Autocom model you are using and the headset type, etc. This is not a typical ground loop problem.

 

bryan@autocomdirect.com

 

 

Edit: just to experiment, one other thing you could try; power up the autocom with an external battery, plug in your headset, and take the autocom with you and walk away from the bike to see how far you have to get before the sound fades out. If it follows you more than 3-4 feet you may have an electrical issue on the bikes shielding. It sounds like its picking up the alternator whine. Walk around the bike to see if there's a dead spot. I mounted one Autocom in the radio compartment on my 07 RT, and another one under the seat on my '10 R12GS, and get no sounds as you describe.

 

And lastly, earbuds are very efficient at getting ALL the sounds down into the ear canal. I have heard background sounds similar to what you describe that are completely lost in the airstream & engine noises when using helmet speakers, but are *very* apparent with earbuds.

 

 

 

[Bernie]

You need to connect the ground wire from the AutoCom directly to the ground wire on the battery terminal, not some common ground on your accessory fuse block.

 

[Steve Kolenda]

Bernie,

 

Thank you for taking the time to respond. If you take a closer look at my post you will see that I made a connection directly to an independent source (lawn mower battery) with the same results.

[johnlt]

What Bernioe said. I'm not sure using an independant ground from the lawnmower is good enough. Try connecting the autocom ground directlhy to the battery terminal. I've got 4 autocoms and this seems to be a magical solution to noise problems.

[Steve Kolenda]

johnlt,

 

The Autocom was connected directly (positive from Autocom to positive on lawn mower battery, negative from Autocom to negative on lawn mower battery) to the lawn mower battery. I'm not sure how much more direct you can get. Forget about the lawn mower part it was simply a battery that was used on a lawn mower. Essentially what this does is completely isolate the Autocom from the bikes electrical system. I assuming that either the electrical system on the bike is broadcasting some huge signal or the Autocom is is acting as a very sensitive receiver. Keep in mind that the GPS audio is clear.

[Steve Kolenda]

bobbybob,

 

Interesting comment on the "walk away from the bike". That was on my list of things to try tomorrow although I'm not sure how It will help me determine if I have a bike problem or an Autocom problem.

[johnlt]

Assuming the lawnmower was not running that should solve the clean power issue. There is a guy in a moto-audio shop in upstate NY, NH or VT that seems to be the most knowledgeable on these problems. I can't find his contact info now but I'm sure someone will chime in. He solved my problem with XMIT noise using a CB very easily with ferrite filters. Hopefully he'll see this post and help you out.

[John Bentall]

Hi Steve,

 

You do also have recourse to Autocm themselves as well as their distributor, so it would be worth mentioning this to them and naming the distributor who is so keen to help.

 

1) It is worth at least trying the previous suggestions of connecting the Autocom direct to the battery earth once you re-install on the bike. As Whip says, you will eventually need a Ground Loop isolator - but I suspect that you already have one if the Zumo audio is completely clear when increasing the RPMs.

 

http://www.autocom.co.uk/Accessories-GPS-Radar-Music-Audio-Interface-leads.aspx - but always contact the distributor for the latest parts.

 

It is unusual for the intercom to be giving trouble and the Zumo not.

2) What other accessories will you be running from the Fuzeblock - as these may conduct RFI to the Autocom?

3) Fernando has in the past written on the subject of radio frequency interference from the bikes electrical system. Might it be worth temporarily wrapping the Autocom and wires in tin-foil (lead bag???) or something similar to shield it from the bike?

4) Autocom themselves have a couple of solutions for removing noise that is definitely coming from the power line - parts #2439 and #2437.

http://www.autocom.co.uk/Accessories-Bike-Power-and-Fitting.aspx

5) Do check that you are not using the passenger lead.

 

I have a Super Pro Automatic fitted to a 2005RT without such problems from the intercom (or any other) part of the unit.

 

HTH,

 

John

 

 

[Dundee387]

Call Adam @ Rocketmoto, located in Hollis, NH.

 

603-566-4922

 

www.roketmoto.com

 

His work is excellent, and he is an Autocom expert/distributer.

 

[johnlt]

Yep, that's the guy I was thinking of.

[hopz]

You need to connect the ground wire from the AutoCom directly to the ground wire on the battery terminal, not some common ground on your accessory fuse block.

 

I vote on you doing this. Ground to Battery Ground is likely (call it 90 percent sure) to be the problem.

 

Ground through the Fuze Block is ,er, Ground but it is also another source of noise...

[Steve Kolenda]

Ground directly to the battery makes no difference. I think the key to solving this problem is the fact that the only time the noise is present is when speaking to the passenger. From my past experience with an older Autocom system, noise typically would come from aux inputs into the Autocom.

[John Bentall]

Steve, as you stated clearly in your first post, the problem only occurs when the microphone is open and the VOX is operational. Since the rider and pillion have separate VOX sensitivity controls it would be good if you could experiment with the pillion talking to the rider. I would also experiment with temporarily disconnecting the noise sensor from the helmet loom.

I think you really need to escalate this to Autocom themselves ASAP - possibly via Adam. My suggestion above is only to fully describe the problem when you do report it.

[johnlt]

What you are describing as noise/squeel only when transmitting is the classic issue experienced with CB radios when transmitting. Well documented. I got the ferrite filters on the B2B cable and it solved the issue.

[Survived-til-now]

Hi Steve

 

Two - off-the-wall ideas

 

1. Try unplugging and re-plugging any 7 pin connectors to make sure you have not got a poor joint - any time I hear the alternator on my bike I do just that and it seems to work.

 

2. I recall that only the rider should have the second ambient noise microphone and that the pillion headset has a shorting-out plug instead. If it isn't fitted the pillion set picks up noise - well its just a thought...

 

Good luck

 

Andy

[Steve Kolenda]

Andy,

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply. Not an issue with the connectors and the pillion headset has the plug installed. We are going to live with the noise until we can get back to the distributor. Not a show stopper just a little annoying.

[John Bentall]

Hi Steve,

 

I don't think the pillion headset should be of the Auto Volume type and even if it is - only the Battery powered Logic needs the shorting plug. Get the distributor to double-check this.

 

Good luck,

 

john

[Steve Kolenda]

John,

 

I will check but the noise is present without the pillion headset being plugged in.

[RocketMoto]

Folks - I'm Steve's Autocom dealer. Steve and I have spent a good amount of time on the phone and on email exchanges - and the 'swirling' noise he describes is, something that I've never heard described previously - in ten years of doing this sort of work. If we can hear it, we can sole it - most likely.

 

As Steve noted in his first post, just as soon as he's able to drop by our shop, we'll sort the issue for him, as we do for any customer.

 

 

[Autocom Matt]

Adam, I too have found a similar issue on a K bike. Here are a few steps I used...

 

1. Pull tank, drop off alternator connector, start bike, ignore engine lights, noise still there.

2. Pull tank, disconnect fuel pump modulator wire, leaving level gauge. Noise gone.

3. Remove module, plug 3 pin connector in, test without module plugged to pump. Only ran for a second cause of the little bit of fuel in the rail, but seemed better but still present.

4. Added a 1000pF ceramic capacitor across pump leads. Put bike back together. Noise still there but harmonic changed slightly.

5. Reevaluated project and decided against relocating bikes com into my demo tank bag.

 

My next step would be sniffing with an oscilloscope and near-field probe. Unfortunately I have neither yet. Any EE's near Jacksonville with tools want to do an experiment?

[94aero]

Unplug aux3 and see if it goes away. Mine did. See if the adapter from the zumo is a 4 post or three? If four, I'll have to look at my bike when I get home to see where I have it landed.

[twilmotte]

I used shielded wire (both power and ground) from battery directly to the comm unit, as well as a PC-10 noise filter in the power supply line. Also, kept all audio cables as far away from engine as possible. Worked for me.