Skywagon Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 2005 R1150RT 29,000 miles Today I hit 5000 miles on my last dino oil change. It is the first time since new the bike hasn't required some bit of oil added between changes. I had read on this site several times when it stops using oil, it is a good time to go to Synthetic. I went to BMW Super Synthetic 20W50. My first Synthetic. In the Texas heat hopefully it will supply some additional cushion. Link to comment
Albert Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Too bad, your deer whistles are bound to fall off now. Link to comment
tallman Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 In before the lock. BTW, are those synthetic deer whistles? They only work on syndeer. Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 David, I have terrible news: BMW does NOT RECOMMEND BMW SuperSyn oil for your bike. If you peruse the manual, you will learn the company recommends Castrol brand motor oil. I believe using that BMW oil is going to cause, among other catastrophes, final drive failure, both low headlights will fail every two weeks, your seat will become unbearably uncomfortable, your valves will need adjusting, the brake servos will go kaflooey, your Autocom will develop a buzz (even if you don't have an Autocom), and your ESA will quit working. On the bright side, your tires won't wear out. You should take your bike to the nearest car wash, drain the oil into the drain grate, open the the oil filler cap, let the engine idle, insert and run the high pressure soap hose until the draining soapy water shows no more oil, then switch to the wax cycle. The wax should last until you get home where you can fill the engine with the correct oil. No need to thank me, I'm here to help. Link to comment
99Roadster Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 You should take your bike to the nearest car wash, drain the oil into the drain grate, open the the oil filler cap, let the engine idle, insert and run the high pressure soap hose until the draining soapy water shows no more oil, then switch to the wax cycle. The wax should last until you get home where you can fill the engine with the correct oil. Side-stand or center-stand? Link to comment
malcolmblalock Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Now I know why my final drive, drive shaft, and ESA gave out! Damn that oil.... Link to comment
markgoodrich Posted June 28, 2011 Share Posted June 28, 2011 You should take your bike to the nearest car wash, drain the oil into the drain grate, open the the oil filler cap, let the engine idle, insert and run the high pressure soap hose until the draining soapy water shows no more oil, then switch to the wax cycle. The wax should last until you get home where you can fill the engine with the correct oil. Side-stand or center-stand? Excellent question. Center stand, of course. And David, I wasn't kidding, if you RTFM, you'll see Castrol is recommended. Link to comment
Skywagon Posted June 28, 2011 Author Share Posted June 28, 2011 Manual..who reads the stinking manual...OK...at next change I'll read it. But at $14quart...these 4 quarts are going the next 8000 miles if the wheels fall off. I rode it to the gas station to fill it up, so it has held together for the first 2 miles. Only 7998 to go! Think I will go out and check the air in the tires...might need to be flushed. Been in there for almost a year. Link to comment
Bernie Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Don't forget to flush the HID headlight fluid, it needs regular flushing to extinguish the light. Link to comment
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