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autocom problems


SteveSardone

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I just installed my old pro-avi duo in my new bike and new helmet. It worked great for a few rides but now having issues. My helmet speakers quit working on the right side if I moved my head wrong. I could wiggle the cable to get it back for awhile but now not at all. My in ear speakers worked great but now having the same problem. The weird thing is if I break squelch I can hear in both ears....then it fades back to just one ear. I removed the headset and wiggled all the wires while listening to music but to no avail. If I have a broken wire why does breaking squelch cause both speakers to work momentarily? Normally breaking squelch causes the music to fade out. Any help appreciated.

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I had the exact same problem. I lived with it for a long time. I would jiggle the part that came out of the helmet where it connected to the coiled cord that connected to the unit.

I finally bit the bullet and bought a new headset and coiled cord. No more problems. The new headset is a different design, so perhaps it is more durable. I never really found the issue. I simply replaced the 2 parts.

I still like my Autocomm!

Cheers,

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the old style autocom headsets (I still use it) connector at helmet (9 pin, I think) can get damages slightly if it gets stepped on, etc, the outer rubber boot gets twisted and the connection becomes messed up, (sometimes the grd pin moves) just twist the outer rubber boot back into proper alignment. Still happens on occasion to my GF's setup. I've moved my Autocom from many helmets over the years, and I've fixed wires, plugs, speakers, etc.

I recently upgraded both headsets to EdSet's---very nice. Worth the $$-IMHO

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Update: After reading this thread I decided to look into updating my cord to the coiled type in an effort to keep them off the ground. Seems Autocom through their US dist. Top Gear has the 7 pin (disregard 9 pin advice above) coiled ext leads #2138 formerly #1183 on sale for $15.99. I bought two (I gotta stop coming here as I always find a way to send money!!)

So now most of my system has been replaced/upgraded....guess I's sticking with the wired setup for communications. It works well and from all I've read is better for what I what than BT.

Good luck.

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Seems Autocom through their US dist. Top Gear has the 7 pin (disregard 9 pin advice above) coiled ext leads #2138 formerly #1183 on sale for $15.99. I bought two.

 

FYI, Top Gear is no longer the importer nor an Autocom distributor. They're blowing out there old stock. I'd be interested to know if the packaging indicates 2138 or 1183. It doesn't matter at all for a cable, but be cautious if you buy a system. The new importer is requiring that systems be purchased from an authorized dealer for any support.

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I recently upgraded both headsets to EdSet's---very nice. Worth the $$-IMHO

 

Some basic audio electronics:

 

Match speaker impedance (resistance across + and -) to what the amp is designed for. You can go higher but depending on design and power you may burn up the amp if you go lower. If you go higher you may loose a significant amount of volume. Almost all Autocom systems use 32 ohm speakers except for the Logic which use 8 ohm. Current 7 pin designs have separate ground for each speaker. The old 5 pin shared the ground for both speakers and mic.

 

Autocom headsets use an electret microphone not a dynamic mic. This can make using an Autocom headset more challenging with other devices, but also makes dynamic mikes problematic on the Autocom.

 

Many make custom headsets. Ed Sets are decent quality but have limited data available. If you are fussy and have a strong electronics background you can pick and choose your components. Best audio will always from from ear buds. Helmets have horrible acoustics.

 

There are virtually limitless options for your headsets. I offer a range of built to specification headsets and audio processors.

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If I have a broken wire why does breaking squelch cause both speakers to work momentarily? Normally breaking squelch causes the music to fade out. Any help appreciated.

 

Unfortunately this is an issue requiring bench testing. It could be a few things, but perhaps there is now damage to the Autocom unit itself from possibly shorting the amplifier.

 

I can't offer anything other than guesses, but here is the steps I would take...

 

Plug unit into my bench supply and plug in test headset. Attempt to replicate problem. If it exists, see what jumping the PTT pins of AUX does. If not, check headset and extension against known good parts. Replace defective.

 

If just the Autocom is bad but headset and extension OK, I sell just the box without headsets if needed.

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Seems Autocom through their US dist. Top Gear has the 7 pin (disregard 9 pin advice above) coiled ext leads #2138 formerly #1183 on sale for $15.99. I bought two.

 

FYI, Top Gear is no longer the importer nor an Autocom distributor. They're blowing out there old stock. I'd be interested to know if the packaging indicates 2138 or 1183. It doesn't matter at all for a cable, but be cautious if you buy a system. The new importer is requiring that systems be purchased from an authorized dealer for any support.

Thanks Mike,

I'll let you know what I get and how they work.

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