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Tying stuff down


flars

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Okay - I want to carry a waterproof bag on the top of my side cases. I have bungee loops/buddies on the top of each bag, and I currently cross two bungee cords over the bags - from one bungee buddy to the rear rack, and another bungee cord from the other bungee buddy to a strap attached to the helmet hook under the seat.

I want to get rid of the bungee cords because, although they are quick and secure, they have a tendency to poke holes in the bags. I have lots of different straps, but I can't figure out where to attach the straps to. I guess I could replace the bungee buddies with 'strap loops' from aerostich or my local marine store, but I need advice from someone who actually uses staps for on top of the side cases...

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I use frame loops (think from Aerostitich or H2W) and Rokstraps.

I'll even run one onder the seat if need be.

Before taking long trip check how much rubbing on top of side case.

With some loads I've needed to put a layer between (like mesh shelf liner/towel).

By using the frame loops and underseat approach much of the weight is kept off of the side cases allowing the osoft bag to be supported independently.

Good luck.

frame loops

Rokstraps

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Bungees as the primary method to secure the primary load is bad news. (and dangerous. Another thread has an account of a very experienced and diligent rider of a load secured well with bungees, upon leaving a light the load shifted and then went off the back and then pulled back into the wheel, locking it. The guy is still having surgeries.) Avoid that!!!!!!

 

Bungee buddies are neat but hard to use with straps. I bought some metal links that have a nut to close them with. (see home depot or lowes etc) They will just fit thru bungee buddies and then screw close, thus giving me a nice opening to use a solid strap on. There are a few places on the frame on my K-RS that I want to strap to but are really hard to reach. I have used those heavier nylon ties loosely around the frame at that point and it leaves room for a place to attach a strap. I actually doubled them and then wrapped them so they act together as one attachment point. They also don't hang down enough to bother anything else.

 

As for strapping, I always try to build in at least one redundant strap on each primary part of the load. This is the just in case strap if one of the others fail There are then still two straps on the load. Over the years of doing this in different situations, I have arrived home and begun to unload and have found a failure, but all was still solid.

 

NCS

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Bungees as the primary method to secure the primary load is bad news. (and dangerous. Another thread has an account of a very experienced and diligent rider of a load secured well with bungees, upon leaving a light the load shifted and then went off the back and then pulled back into the wheel, locking it. The guy is still having surgeries.) Avoid that!!!!!!

 

Bungee buddies are neat but hard to use with straps. I bought some metal links that have a nut to close them with. (see home depot or lowes etc) They will just fit thru bungee buddies and then screw close, thus giving me a nice opening to use a solid strap on.

 

I've heard too many stories of disasters caused by bungee cords to want to use them on my motorcycle. I think the suggestion of the metal links is great. I've used hardware store spring carabiners in the same way. They're inexpensive and work perfectly as attachment points for straps. I use both the Rokstraps and the straps from Helen Twowheels. Both are excellent quality. A few years ago, I sewed some straps from components I bought at REI. They were perfectly functional, but I probably spent as much on the materials and gas back and forth to REI as I would have spent on the Helen Twowheels straps.

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I went to Lowe's and got some ordinary straps. They have all different sizes and colors. Works fine for me.

dc

 

I started with that until I bought a set of Rocstraps. Once you own them, you'll never go back...

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No.

I don't like the idea of the stretchiness. I probably wouldn't also like the price that went with them.

I like the low cost, solid strap.

dc

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malcolmblalock

While a little pricey, the Rocstraps have secured loads successfully for well over 100K miles. They just work!

 

Not affiliated with them (other than purchasing two sets); I trust them to hold whatever needs to be strapped to the bike.

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No.

I don't like the idea of the stretchiness. I probably wouldn't also like the price that went with them.

I like the low cost, solid strap.

dc

 

I use both stretchy (usually Rocstraps - especially fond of the ones that are adjustable) and fixed straps (home-made Helen2Wheels setup - probably spent as much on the materials, but I got them to be exactly the sizes, strap types, and colors I wanted). Fixed straps for solid objects and/or things with fixed lash points; stretchy straps for stuff that might try to change position/shape/volume during a ride under a solid strap (thus making it looser than ideal).

 

 

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No.

I don't like the idea of the stretchiness. I probably wouldn't also like the price that went with them.

I like the low cost, solid strap.

dc

 

I use both stretchy (usually Rocstraps - especially fond of the ones that are adjustable) and fixed straps (home-made Helen2Wheels setup - probably spent as much on the materials, but I got them to be exactly the sizes, strap types, and colors I wanted). Fixed straps for solid objects and/or things with fixed lash points; stretchy straps for stuff that might try to change position/shape/volume during a ride under a solid strap (thus making it looser than ideal).

 

 

I have both too.

Cost a bit years ago and lots of miles later I'm happy.

Use redundancy tie downs as the potential catastrophe associated with failure/load shift/straps in moving parts

is not what I want to deal with.

 

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No.

I don't like the idea of the stretchiness. I probably wouldn't also like the price that went with them.

I like the low cost, solid strap.

dc

 

I agree they are a bit pricey, but very well made. It's ok to not like the *idea* of the stretchiness, but I've actually *tried* both options. They aren't that stretchy and do the job well.

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Just to echo the others, bungee cords are a bad, bad idea. I came REALLY close to a rear wheel entanglement a few years ago when a soft load slipped to the side. A honking cage driver alerted me. Threw them all away after that.

 

 

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I did use the oriental art of Bun-gee...

Then won a set of every size of Rox strap....

Around 30K miles and nary a problem ..........

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hmmmmmm.

16 replies, and only two had anything to do with trying to solve my problem, i.e. where to tie off to.

Thanks to Tallman and NCS for your ideas.

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Thanks.

When we camp we use a U pack.

It rests on a board I cut to bolt to my GIVI rear rack.

But, the legs of the U come forward over the saddlebags.

I didn't want all the extra weight on the bags/luggage rail.

So I use the combo above to support the legs as much as possible

and I can still open the side case if I slightly loosen one of the straps.

Play around with attachment places and you'll find a way.

Best wishes.

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I tried bungee buddies but found they were difficult to pass a 1" strap through. So I replaced them with stainless steel marine loops mounted with stainless flathead bolts. On the inside are stainless fender washers or metal straps to spread the stress on the plastic and sealed with silicone sealer. I use 1" BMW straps criss-cross over the load, but any good NON-ELASTIC strap will do. You can see where I plugged the bungee buddie holes under the straps. Never should have used them in the first place.

 

Tiedowns3.jpg

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