New R1100RT Owner Questions

[Splais]

So I am the proud owner of a "new" 1997 R1100Rt. My only other street bike was a Heritage Softtail Classic. Quit a change, but I like the bike. My closest BMW dealer is 200 miles away so I will probably be doing all the routine stuff myself. A couple of questions.

 

1. I'm looking for a printed catalog. You know, one of those huge 1" thick things that has every accessory and part you would ever want for a BMW. Only found one so from Bob's BMW, looking for any others.

 

2. I already can tell I'm going to have to do something about the seat. It's the adjustable (maybe they all are) two piece stock seat. It's very uncomfortable, just "feels" hard on my arse after not to long a time. I've seen places where you can send your seat and they will install an insert or new padding and I guess there are a bunch of after market seats out there - for comfort I'm thinking the cost may not be the most important thing. I'm 5'8" and 165 pounds. So if you changed your seat in any way - what did you do and how did you like it?

 

Thanks.

[tallman]

Welcome.

 

Accessories are made by 1,573 different companies.

You're out of luck on the one book.

 

However, as you decide you want to add/change something, just post

(after doing a search of course)

and plenty of folks who know somehting, nothing, everything, will happily dispense advice worth at least every penny it costs.

 

 

Enjoy the ride.

[Boffin]

The nearest thing to one farkle catalogue that I know is from Wunderlich. http://www.wunderlichamerica.com/

 

Andy

[philbytx]

Find someone with a BMW Comfort seat on their RT and try it out on yours. I have one on my 2003

 

If you still have a sore arse, I can recommend the Russell Day Long. I have one on my R1100R and love it .

 

[oldironhead]

I have a stock '96 Rll00RT, which I "moved up" to from a 76 XLCH.

 

The nearest thing to the Harley bible, (the J&P Cycles catalog) would be Wunderlich. And you might want to get familiar with beemerboneyard.

[Splais]

There are a couple of Corbin seats for sale on ebay that are reasonably priced. Can anyone tell me if this seat would be a marked improvement over the stock seat? thanks.

[Michaelr11]

There are a couple of Corbin seats for sale on ebay that are reasonably priced. Can anyone tell me if this seat would be a marked improvement over the stock seat? thanks.

In my opinion, NO. The Corbin seats are very hard, and my own experience was the pan didn't fit well into the bike. There are several after market seats. List where you are located. You might get some nearby 1100/1150 owners with seats that you could try. I've got a Russell Day Long now, like it - had a Rick Mayer seat, liked it a lot - had a Corbin seat briefly, hated it. Sargent also makes a really nice seat for the RT. Keep looking for used seats on ebay and in the MOA flea market; they come up for sale.

[Larie]

My observations about Corbin seats is that the rider either loves them or hates them. I had a Corbin on a Concours and hated it.

I use Russell Day Long on my '98 r1100RT and now my '07 R1200RT. Love them, but pricey! For my F800, I decide to go with a Rick Mayer seat. Don't have it yet.

 

Touratech also has a great catalog for BMWs.

 

Cheers,

[hopz]

Splais, my rap, in the shortest possible fashion, on seats, is that you can have a seat modified to your on specifications cheaper, faster, and more effectively if you find a seat/upholstery guy near you.

 

It would help if you updated your profile so we know who you are and where you are located.

 

The key to a customized seat is finding a guy who knows what "foam density" means. Every small town or larger will have several guys who can do this work. If the guy gives you only a dumb look when you ask about foam densities then you have the wrong guy. Find yourself a custom Harley shop and visit. They will tell you who does this near you.

 

PM me if you to chat about it.

[OoPEZoO]

And I was in the other boat. I had a Corbin on my RT and I loved it. It was the best of the 3 seats I tried on it. I did a few 600-800 mile days on it with no comfort issues at all. I would wake up the next morning and not even know I was on the bike the day before. It was hard as a rock, but it was comfortable for me. Thats the problem with motorcycle seats.......everyones arse and preferences are different. The only sure fire way to get something perfect is to have something custom built to your body or learn to do it yourself.

 

I have a Rich Maund seat on my GS now (bought 2nd hand), and I have been very pleased with it. It is much softer compared to the Corbin I had on my RT, but I have done two 600+ mile days on it so far and all is well.

 

[BFish]

Sergeant seat on my RT and Weestrom. For me, wayyyyyyy better than the stock.

[taylor1]

I have Sargent seats on my 1150rt. Have no complaints. Also did some two up long distance and she had no complaints either.

Hornig is also a good after market vendor

[ShaneK]

+1 on the sargent.

[Patallaire]

I have a Corbin and like it, I even put a beaded seat on it as it helps air circulate more and keeps my a-- off the seat in the rain. So, the seat is hard, beads make it harder, but I ride bicycles 2000+ miles a year on a very very skinney saddle, so hard is a relative term when it comes to saddles.

[biometrics]

Had a Corbin leather seat on my previous Honda Nighthawk... it looked GREAT and was like sitting on a flat rock. I hated it. Sold it and found a stock seat that needed a cover on ebay... and bought a new cover for $40.00 What a relief.

 

My '99 R1100RT came with the stock seat. It was problematic because it was as hard as my previous Corbin. During the upgrade to 2-up seating I came upon a deal on ebay for both rider and pillion seats from a 2005 R1150RT... turned out they were the OEM "comfort" seats... what a difference. I could ride all day long now... Sold the original stock seat on ebay to some guy south of the border... I hope it fit his behind better than it fit mine. Good luck on your search for comfort.

[CVA-42]

Had a BMW comfort seat on my 1150RT. Liked it fine but made it even better by adding an Alaskan Sheepskin cover for not much money. The icing on the cake (so to speak) came in the form of LD Comfort riding shorts. Have a Russell Day Long on my 1200RT now. Very, very comfortable seat but I find that the shape "shortens" my legs so that I can't flat-foot the bike without lowering the seat. Same comment for the Corbin I have on my 1150GS. The difference in comfort between the Russell and the stock on my 1200RT is pronounced for me.

[snookers]

I have a Corbin seat on my RT.............it came with the bike when I bought her.....and it fits me arse wonderfully. I cannot compare this seat with a stock or any made by other manufacturers, but, this Corbin, she be heated as well......and there's nothing like riding with a warm arse when the temperature's dip.

[EffBee]

I'm on my second 1100RT. Having put over 100K on the first, I sold it (still running strong) and found a low-mileage used one that is my current ride. Here's a quick list of the essentials.

 

Russell Day-Long Saddle

 

HID headlight. The stock headlight us woefully weak

 

An aftermarket windshield. Everyone has their fave, but Cee Bailey gives you a choice of widths, heights, and cuts. I vote for a #2 EuroCut in a +2 width. You're 5-8, so a +2 height should do it.

 

If you still have the stock suspension, you're going to need new suspenders pretty soon. Buy used. No need to put $1500 into a bike worth $5K unless you're going to keep it for a looooong time. Used Ohlins for the 1100RT pop up several times per year. FYI, Ohlins for an 1150RT won't fit. They've got to be for an 1100.

 

An aftermarket set of driving lights will not only help wide illumination, but conspicuity as well. Motolights are popular, but there are cheaper alternatives.

 

If your bike doesn't have them, install the intake tubes from an 1100GS. Those and a new set of o-rings will set you back $50. Best performance mod you can make. There's a dip in the torque curve from 3500-4500. Takes it right out and gives the bike extra punch right where you use it most.

 

Those are what I, as a long-time 1100RT owner, consider to be essentials. The rest is up to you.

 

[philbytx]

+1 for the Russell Day Long . I have one on my R1100R.

 

Plus I'm fortunate that the Comfort Seat on my R1150RT is well suited to my arse !

 

 

 

[litigator]

On my four RTs, I've had the following (rated on 0-10 scale) saddles. Stock (0), Comfort (-2), Corbin (4), Sargeant (5), Mayer (8), Russell (12)

[Sweendog]

My 1100RT came with a Sargent, and I love it. I've ridden a couple of 450-500 mile days with no issues.

 

I had a Corbin on my KZ 1100 LTD and it was good, but my ass was always sore by the end of a 300+ mile day.

[Lmar]

Welcome. +2 on the Sargeant.

[doc47]

Always pined for a Russell, but the RT I'm riding has a Mayer seat and I'm really impressed. Rode it from Fla to the Northwet last Oct and never had a sore butt oncet.

Used to have a comfort seat on my previous bike and it was good but not anywhere near as good as this one. And the quality of construction is impressive.

[Sonor]

My 1995 R1100R had a Russell and I loved it. Eleven hours in the saddle one day and no problems at the end of the day or the next when I rode again for another 6 to 7 hours. Sold her and bought my current bike, 05 R1200RT. It came with a modified stock seat and the stock shorty - both sucked. Found a Russell on Craigzoom for $200 and loved the bike ever since.

[Splais]

Ok, this is an update. I have come to the conclusion I made a huge mistake getting this bike, at least for me. My previous bike was a Heritage Softtail, and boy, I wish I still had it. The R1100RT is just about the most uncomfortable bike I can imagine in many ways. I'm 5'8" with a 29 inch inseam. I have done the following: raised the front seat bracket almost a half inch and cut down the rubber bumpers on the back of the seat. Installed the lowered front pegs, installed Mick-O-Pegs hiway pegs. Even tried an Airhawk seat pad (complete waste of money). All this has improved the riding comfort somewhat; but I still wouldn't want to take an extended ride on this bike. I'm at the point of trying to determine if spending several hundred dollars for a Russel would be worth it.

 

I think the Mick-O-Pegs help a good bit, but they "feel" very fragile, i.e., will bend. I don't think I could put much weight on them without bending them. but after spending $300 on them I'm stuck with them. In addition to feeling fragile, you have to remove the plastic valve cover guards and I wasn't too happy about that.

 

So what's my point - I don't know, I'm ranting. Question - has anyone put a Russell on their R1100RT and been disappointed or thought it wasn't worth the money. Thanks.

[tallman]

Sounds like your riding style, cruiser w/footpegs, is the antithesis of a sport tourer.

You want upright to negativeseat angles and feet extended, definitely not a sport tourer set up.

Also sounds like the RT is too tall for your build.

Also sounds like you don't want to ride it as the attempts to modify don't suit you.

Just curious, why'd you buy and how many miles have you put on it?

Sell the bike, plent of HD's for sale out there and you'll be happier.

See ya down the road...

[Splais]

Well i purchased it because I had limited funds and there are scant options available in this area when you get down into the $5K price range. I don't necessarily dislike the "sport" riding positon per say. But the R1100's wide tank and fairing put you into a bit of like riding a horse posture with splayed out legs. I got about 300 miles on the bike so far; butnot that much with the modified seat and just got the pegs. Going to give the bike some more riding to try adjusting. There are two things that seem to bother me. First, the constant pressure on the crotch area because of that seat design; and second, the fact this bike is not all that fun to ride where a lot of shifting is required in the lower gears. Letting off the gas to shift is almost like putting the brakes on hard, very aggravating. And yes, I'm only 5'8" which limits my options because with the seat in the highest position the bike is a lot better, but can't touch the ground. I haven't given up on it totally yet.

[OoPEZoO]

Sounds like this is a major culture shock to your riding style. Not bad, just drastically different. The exact opposite of why I will probably never own a crusier bike. I can't stand having my feet out in front of me when riding. I like them under me so I can support my weight with my legs and take my body weight off of the seat. I also prefer to ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs, not flat footed with the peg under my arch.

 

I have never had luck with stock BMW seats. They all killed me after 40-50 miles. I always felt like the stock seats forced me forward into the tank. I was constantly moving myself back trying to fight it, but always ended up against the tank again. It was uncomfortable to start, and then turned into pain. I did a 600 mile day on my GS with the stock seat and I was in pain for almost a week afterward. With your height and inseam, you should definitely be using a low seat and probably set in the low position. I wouldn't drop the money on a custom anything until you decide if you are keeping the bike or not. You should be able to find a lightly used Sargeant or Mayer seat built on a low seat pan for a price low enough that you won't lose money on it if you need to resell it.

 

As far as the throttle control and shifting. The trick to riding those 1100 bikes is to keep the RPMs up. I never rode mine at less than about 4k RPM. It was normal to rev it up to 6k+ before shifting. You won't hurt it, thats how it is designed to run. The throttles can be a little touchy when you are not used to it, but it teaches you to develop good throttle control. Riding down below 4k can be very herky jerky. I don't know what RPM you are typically riding at, but I have talked to new RT riders who were trying to ride and shift down in the 2-3k RPM range and were not happy with the bikes. They just aren't designed to run well down there. It took me a while to get used to this as well, but after i adjusted I was much happier.

 

In the end, its just a bike. If it doesn't fit......there are bunch more out there. The best thing I did with my RT was stop trying to adjust the bike to me. I started adjusting myself to the bike and it turned out being the best bike I have owned. Hope you can get it all figured out.

[Caddis]

I am also 5'8" with a 29" (maybe even a little less) inseam. I have never tried a Russell seat, but my understanding is that it is taller than the stock seat. That could be an issue with your inseam. I have a Sargent low seat, and even then I am only on the balls of my feet. So if reach to the ground is an issue for you, expect that to be even more of an issue with most of the after-market "regular" height seats.

 

I think the low Sargent seat is also a little narrower than the stock seat, so it doesn't feel like my legs are splayed apart so far, as you mentioned. Seat choice seems to very specific to each person. The only way to find out which one(s) you like is to try them.

 

You mentioned that you liked it better with the seat in the high position. What is it that you like better that way? If it is that your knees aren't bent so much, you could lower the pegs to get a similar result with the seat still in a lower position.

[myshkin]

The Russell seat is not taller than the stock seat. I have my Russell seat in the middle setting and can flatfoot easily with my 31" inseam. When ordering a Russell they require you to send a picture of you on the bike in the riding position. It is a seat custom made for the owner. You specify whatever you want. Many of the other seat manufactures make an after market seat which is more comfortable than stock for some riders but they are not taking into account you height, weight and riding position. I had a Sargent prior to the Russell and while it was more comfortable than stock it was not much of an improvement over the stock seat. I could barely walk after 300 miles. With the Russell I have ridden over 600 mile days without any pain.

There are some nice seats out there and if you can go to a BMW rally or some other gathering you can help make a decision on which route to go. I know it is really hard to spring for an expensive seat but in the long run it is worth it if you plan to rack up the miles up on your bike.

[Splais]

Thanks for the tip on the rpm. yes I was riding it mostly at a lot lower rpm. I'll try bumping it up the rpm range and see how that goes.

 

the thing I liked about the high posiution was that it moved me back a bit in relation to the tank and footpegs. I also think it leveled out the seat a little more. I already have the lowered pegs.

[Splais]

Thanks for the tip on the rpm. yes I was riding it mostly at a lot lower rpm. I'll try bumping it up the rpm range and see how that goes.

 

the thing I liked about the high posiution was that it moved me back a bit in relation to the tank and footpegs. I also think it leveled out the seat a little more. I already have the lowered pegs.

[dirtrider]

----- and second, the fact this bike is not all that fun to ride where a lot of shifting is required in the lower gears. Letting off the gas to shift is almost like putting the brakes on hard, very aggravating.

 

 

Afternoon Splais

 

On your shifting problem?

 

I never keep the RPM's up & have no problems shifting smoothly at lower screeds & lower RPM's.

 

There is a technique to shifting the BMW boxer smoothly & that seems to be a bit different for each rider & motorcycle.

 

To start with-- put your choke partially on (don't worry that is JUST a fast idle control & adds no extra fuel so it won't run rich on you).

 

This is just to show you how it can be shifted smoothly at lower speeds& lower engine RPM's.

 

Now, try lightly pre-loading the shift lever just prior to the shift. Not enough to actually shift, just enough load to take the play out & keep some pressure on the shift lever. Now shift very quickly & only partially pull the clutch lever in. Just enough to allow the shift, not all the way to the handle bar. If all is working as planned the second you pull the clutch lever in the trans should just about shift itself if you have enough per-load on the shift lever. The secret is to do it quickly with a pre-loaded shift lever. That won't allow the engine RPM's to drop off so fast & will keep the engine RPM near the next trans range need.

 

Play with the shift speed, the de-clutch/re-clutch speed & distance the clutch lever is pulled in.

 

Once you have mastered smooth shifting using the elevated engine RPM from the choke lever just turn the choke off & try to match what your were doing with throttle control.