Torque wrench recommendation

[Uncle Beemer]

I'm looking for a new torque wrench, as my last two Craftsman wrenches are pretty much junk. Any favorites?

[dirtrider]

Evening Uncle Beemer

 

Truthfully a person usually needs more then one torque wrench depending on what they are working on. The bolt/nut size/torque range they are working with makes a difference on wrench selection.

 

What do you want to torque & how much are you willing to spend?

 

[Uncle Beemer]

Mostly general use, up to 125-150 lbs. Less than 200 bucks.

[JR356]

Won't Craftsman Warranty rebuild and recalibrate them for free/low cost?

Would check with Sears on this.

 

JR356

 

[Uncle Beemer]

I've bought two of the Craftsman Digitork torque wrenches. The first one, which I trashed, I paid about 80 bucks for it. The second one, I paid 110 bucks for. They are only warranted for 90 days. I've had it longer than that. I don't really trust these things anymore. Sears may repair it for a nominal fee, but like I said, I don't really trust it.

[Guest Kakugo]

Look into CDI Torque or JH Williams. They are owned by Snap-On (and often are exactly the same as the higher priced Snap-On and Bahco bar the flashier finish) but are somewhat cheaper and very good quality.

Here's an example that may fit the bill: CDI Torque 1503MFRPH

 

Otherwise stretch your budget a bit and get a Japanese Tohnichi or a Bestool-Kanon (Nakamura). I have some tools back when the latter was still called just Kanon and they are very durable and great value for money.

 

 

[Selden]

I'll play contrarian. I have less than $50 invested in three Harbor Freight torque wrenches. No complaints. I store them in the plastic carrying cases, with all tension off.

[Uncle Beemer]

I'll play contrarian. I have less than $50 invested in three Harbor Freight torque wrenches. No complaints. I store them in the plastic carrying cases, with all tension off.

 

I looked at Harbor Freight today but, it seems to me that a torque wrench ought to cost more than 10 bucks. You know, like my worthless Craftsman that I paid 110 bucks for.

[Paul Mihalka]

I am contrarian +1. I still use these. Nothing to go wrong, close enough for me.

 

[Uncle Beemer]

I am contrarian +1. I still use these. Nothing to go wrong, close enough for me.

 

 

I may just buy one of these.

[LBump]

I am contrarian +1. I still use these. Nothing to go wrong, close enough for me.

 

 

I have, and use one of these. And I like'm, simple to the point.

However... when you can't see the gradations or it's upside down you have a problem.

Good Luck!

 

[Peter Parts]

Avoid clickers unless you are a pro (or work on an assembly line). They separate the person from the task because they remove feel. And like liquid manometers, have no practical improvement in accuracy. But they make users feel high-techy, a popular value for amateur DIY.

 

Next week we can have a thread about how to read torsion-bar wrenches from their backside or in the dark.

 

Ben

[elkroeger]

I am contrarian +1. I still use these. Nothing to go wrong, close enough for me.

 

 

+1. I also have a little mirror (actually, a coast guard type signal mirror) that I use to see it when it's upside down. Works okay for me. I have this theory that most of the nuts and bolts I'm liable to monkey with aren't all that critical anyway... ymmv.

 

Oh, wait. Save that mirror bit for next week's thread... ;-)

[LBump]

Next week we can have a thread about how to read torsion-bar wrenches from their backside or in the dark.

 

Ben

 

I look forward to next weeks thread! I just can't figure out the upside down and backwards thing...

The sever dyskexias condition is gnitteg eht retteb fo em. Dluoc uoy esaelp nrut no eht thgil, sknaht.

[Uncle Beemer]

Avoid clickers unless you are a pro (or work on an assembly line). They separate the person from the task because they remove feel. And like liquid manometers, have no practical improvement in accuracy. But they make users feel high-techy, a popular value for amateur DIY.

 

Next week we can have a thread about how to read torsion-bar wrenches from their backside or in the dark.

 

Ben

 

Not so sure about that last statement, I still felt that I could "feel" with my clicker. Being the amateur as you say.

[Michael B]

Hey Paul, I've been looking for a simple torque wrench like the one you pictured in this thread for a long time.

 

Where did you get it and how much did it cost?

 

Simple is good..."nothing to go wrong" is what I'm looking for.

 

Thanks

[szurszewski]

I am contrarian +1. I still use these. Nothing to go wrong, close enough for me.

 

 

I have, and use one of these. And I like'm, simple to the point.

However... when you can't see the gradations or it's upside down you have a problem.

Good Luck!

 

Sorry - never was patient enough to wait for next week. I have a couple of Craftsman wrenches of that type - when they need to be upside down I just put a grease pencil mark on the back where the proper torque is. I actually find it easier to use that way as then you only have one mark to worry about instead off the little gradations.

[OoPEZoO]

I'll play contrarian. I have less than $50 invested in three Harbor Freight torque wrenches. No complaints. I store them in the plastic carrying cases, with all tension off.

 

I looked at Harbor Freight today but, it seems to me that a torque wrench ought to cost more than 10 bucks. You know, like my worthless Craftsman that I paid 110 bucks for.

 

I thought so too......then I actually bought one of their 3/8" drive wrenches during a sale. I took it to work the next day and checked it on our calibrating equipment. It was spot on. That was probably 5 years ago. I have since bought a 1/4" drive and 1/2" drive as well. I drag them into work about once a year (usually before a some project that I'm paranoid about getting perfect) to check their accuracy, and they have always been easily within acceptable specs. I even had the screws fall out of the head on the 3/8" drive wrench once. I figured it was done for. I put it all back together (with some locktite on the screws this time), took it to work, and its still spot on.

 

I'm notoriously a picky tool guy. Most of my hand tools are old Craftsman, Snap-On, or Mac, and most of my power tools are all Dewalt. I'd love to rag on Harbor Freight somehow about their clickers, but I'm a 100% satisfied customer.

[Paul Mihalka]

Hey Paul, I've been looking for a simple torque wrench like the one you pictured in this thread for a long time.

 

Where did you get it and how much did it cost?

 

Simple is good..."nothing to go wrong" is what I'm looking for.

 

Thanks

I got mine over 20 years ago. I wouldn't know where to get one and how much.

 

edit: I just looked. Sears/Craftsman has them. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00903300000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

[steveknapp]

"beam torque wrench" turns up a good number of hits on amazon as well.

[RPG]

Lowe's carries some nice Kobalt stuff. Picked up a 3/8" drive T.R. and really happy with it. Nice quality. Decent price.

 

RPG

[Lone_RT_rider]

I thought so too......then I actually bought one of their 3/8" drive wrenches during a sale. I took it to work the next day and checked it on our calibrating equipment. It was spot on. That was probably 5 years ago.

 

Keith,

 

What brand did you get 5 years ago. HF is now carrying Pitsburg Pro. Of course, this doesn't guarentee that they haven't changed Chinese suppliers six time since you purchased them. lol

 

Shawn

[smiller]

I thought so too......then I actually bought one of their 3/8" drive wrenches during a sale. I took it to work the next day and checked it on our calibrating equipment. It was spot on. That was probably 5 years ago. I have since bought a 1/4" drive and 1/2" drive as well. I drag them into work about once a year (usually before a some project that I'm paranoid about getting perfect) to check their accuracy, and they have always been easily within acceptable specs.

Yeah, you have to be careful about declaring what is and isn't junk without testing. I tested a couple of Craftsman torque wrenches that I've banged around for 10-20 years or more (depending on the wrench), never calibrated, and all were spot-on even at the edges of the range. Would I use them on the space shuttle, or even hard daily use as a professional mechanic? Maybe not, but I don't see any evidence telling me that paying 3-4x as much for my personal use would bring me any benefit whatsoever.

[steveknapp]

"Would I use them on the space shuttle" - I don't know of any tool I'd use in a critical application that I did not test and recalibrate on a regular basis.

 

I did have my craftsman wrenches calibrated a way back, they were spot on as well. My only issue is one of them fell apart after a few uses and had to be replaced.

[Peter Parts]

My torsion bar (maybe better name is beam, dunno) checked out as very accurate a few years ago.

 

If you ever wonder about your torque wrench accuracy, just take it to the store and compare to three wrenches on the shelf. Easy.

 

Yes, I use the grease pencil and mirror (plus carefully aimed flashlight) too.

 

About "feel," you move the clicker and then as some point you can't quite sense, it goes CLICK and you're done. Not much human cognition involved there. I like to see (and feel) what I'm doing. Assembly lines and dealers' shops are different issues.

 

Next week we'll have a thread about the torque-angle method. Am I the only one who thinks it makes no sense for shade-tree fixers like us? Or maybe about lub'ing wheel bolts.

 

Ben

[Selden]

Next week we'll have a thread about the torque-angle method. Am I the only one who thinks it makes no sense for shade-tree fixers like us?...

When I tightened up the rocker end play clearance, I was pretty religious about pre-torqueing, then adding 180° to nut on the cylinder stud. On the other hand, when I replaced the clutch last winter, I decided that clutch housing (the toothy part) looked nearly new, so I decided ot to replace it, since I doubted my ability to achieve exactly a 32° wrench angle repeatedly for 5 bolts:

 

Tightening torque:

Clutch housing to crankshaft

(oil screw threads lightly)

Initial tightening ...................................... 40 Nm

Wrench angle............................................. 32°

[lkchris]

If you're looking for a real torque wrench as opposed to a wannabe, you'll get a Stahlwille.

 

No need to reset to zero. OK to remove fasteners with. Removable and interchangeable heads. The BMW special tool for removing the R1100S transmission drain plug fits right onto my Stahlwille.

 

Cheapest places to get them are the VW or Mercedes parts systems.

 

 

 

[tallman]

I like the wenches in Torque

[cris nitro]

I like the wenches in Torque

 

Nice!

[Guest Kakugo]

If you're looking for a real torque wrench as opposed to a wannabe, you'll get a Stahlwille.

 

No need to reset to zero. OK to remove fasteners with. Removable and interchangeable heads. The BMW special tool for removing the R1100S transmission drain plug fits right onto my Stahlwille.

 

Cheapest places to get them are the VW or Mercedes parts systems.

 

 

 

Or, if you ant the big Kahuna himself, get a Gedore.

 

=146750,136499,136519,136520,142205]Gedore DMK200

 

I have always liked Stahlwille tools: they have a certain feeling about them that screams high quality.

Nice choice of tool!

[na1g]

Old school: 1/4 turn before the bolt snaps.

[Paul Mihalka]

Old school: 1/4 turn before the bolt snaps.

 

I know what you mean. After a "few" years of wrenching by feel seems to be good enough. Picking the right length of wrench helps. Torque wrench for some items, like wheels and cylinder heads. I don't snap bolts and things don't fall off. Good enough.

[Lone_RT_rider]

Paul, after helicoiling so many valve cover bolt holes.... I started using a torque wrench a lot more often. lol.

[scout6]

1/4 past snapped is pretty good. My problem with the cheaper Craftsman wrenches is that the numbers wore off the plastic bezel ring, and the ring no longer locks. I have a large 1/2 inch and a smaller 3/8 inch to handle most jobs on the bikes, and of course I can not read either of them.

[ratfink]

Old school: 1/4 turn before the bolt snaps.

 

I know what you mean. After a "few" years of wrenching by feel seems to be good enough. Picking the right length of wrench helps. Torque wrench for some items, like wheels and cylinder heads. I don't snap bolts and things don't fall off. Good enough.

 

I have found that my internal torque wrench is pretty close when it comes to metal to metal......like lugs.

 

When compressing a gasket or o-ring, not so much. I set the fuel pump flange on an RT by feel and then found that I needed to tighten it quite a bit more using a torque wrench. I think smaller screws throw me off more, the ones that are most likely to break or strip.

[Guest Kakugo]

Paul, after helicoiling so many valve cover bolt holes.... I started using a torque wrench a lot more often. lol.

 

That's exactly the reason why now I own not one but two torque wrenches, with (hopefully) a third one on the way.

[Paul Mihalka]

Paul, after helicoiling so many valve cover bolt holes.... I started using a torque wrench a lot more often. lol.

 

Well, I consider that specially valve cover bolts do NOT need a torque wrench. By design when the cover gasket and the gasket under the bolt head are properly compressed, the bolts bottom out. Just snug enough that they don't fall out is good enough. If the gasket leaks and you try to tighten it, you strip the thread but it will still leak.

[Rinkydink]

Just changed my oil in my 09 RT. When I tighten the drain plug and oil filter I use my left hand (I'm right handed)and hold the rachet at the center instead of out at the end of the handle. It has never failed me and so far no problems. Is it scientific...no, but it sure works for me. I own both a Snap-on and Craftsman torque wrench but use them for flywheels/clutches/axle bolts and the like.

[Michaelr11]

Hey Paul, I've been looking for a simple torque wrench like the one you pictured in this thread for a long time.

Where did you get it and how much did it cost?

.... I just looked. Sears/Craftsman has them. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00903300000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

Thanks for pointing that out Paul. 0-150 Lb.Ft. beam wrench on sale for $22.99. Just the right range for my rear wheel lug bolts.

[Uncle Beemer]

Lowe's carries some nice Kobalt stuff. Picked up a 3/8" drive T.R. and really happy with it. Nice quality. Decent price.

 

RPG

 

I checked out Lowes. They have their Kobalt torque wrench for 80 bucks. Home Depot has their Husky branded torque wrench at 80 bucks also. Both are warranted for life. Sears Craftsman? 90 days.

[Selden]

I checked out Lowes. They have their Kobalt torque wrench for 80 bucks. Home Depot has their Husky branded torque wrench at 80 bucks also. Both are warranted for life. Sears Craftsman? 90 days.

This has not been my experience with a Husky torque wrench, which literally fell apart in my hand. Home Depot refused to touch it. One reason I now buy torque wrenches from Harbor Freight (but only when they are on sale).

[Sonor]

I think the big difference for Craftsman is if there is a battery for a digital print out, you only get 90 days. If it is a standard tool, it is life time. That is what I was told but not sure if it is real. I have one like Paul Mihalka posted on page 1. It is fine until you have the face of the gauge facing the ground and can't see it. That's why I will be purchasing another one (mechanical) some day soon.

[Uncle Beemer]

I checked out Lowes. They have their Kobalt torque wrench for 80 bucks. Home Depot has their Husky branded torque wrench at 80 bucks also. Both are warranted for life. Sears Craftsman? 90 days.

This has not been my experience with a Husky torque wrench, which literally fell apart in my hand. Home Depot refused to touch it. One reason I now buy torque wrenches from Harbor Freight (but only when they are on sale).

 

Well it said right on the package warranted for life.

[Uncle Beemer]

I think the big difference for Craftsman is if there is a battery for a digital print out, you only get 90 days. If it is a standard tool, it is life time. That is what I was told but not sure if it is real. I have one like Paul Mihalka posted on page 1. It is fine until you have the face of the gauge facing the ground and can't see it. That's why I will be purchasing another one (mechanical) some day soon.

 

This one from Sears had no battery. Clerk said 90 days.

 

 

[OlGeezer]

Won't Craftsman Warranty rebuild and recalibrate them for free/low cost?

Would check with Sears on this.

 

JR356

 

At best, they will replace the tool. They won't recalibrate them AFAIK.

 

I've got two (to stay within the 20%-80% range) Craftsman wrenches I've been happy with over the last dozen years. I have NO IDEA how accurate they are. I just hope they are close. I haven't snapped off a bolt using them. I guess that's a good sign.

[Paul Mihalka]

To me if the bolt doesn't break, the thread doesn't strip, the piece doesn't fall off, if there is a gasket it doesn't leak, I'm good.

[TeSmSp]

I purchased this one for Amazon the other day:

 

ACDelco ARM602-4 1/2-Inch Torque Measurement Adapter 4-147.6 ft-lbs

 

Batteries included.

[Oldironken]

Craftsman micro clicker non-battery type are $35 this weekend regularly $79. Just ordered a 1/2 inch drive

[SuperG]

Wow, 5 pages worth of torque wrench recommendations, cool.

Mine as well put in my 2 cents worth.

 

From a semi-pro's perspective. I am no longer a "life time and/or master tech" , but I have put in 10 years worth of professional wrenching early on..

 

Working for General Motors dealerships, I can assure... I have put in plenty torque-wrench time replacing Pontiac Grand Am and Chevy Cavalier 4 cyl. head gaskets; often and with good efficiency.

 

My recommendations:

for home use: a good craftsman clicker type torque wrench goes a long way. Craftsman

 

For home use/<-over achiever.. or for semipro wanna be.

go for the snap-on wrench with thumb screw adjustment

Snap -on

 

here comes the kicker, and the test question for the day:

when you torque to manufacturers specification, does it mean wet or dry bolt tread? can the bolt head or crush washer has oil on it? friction makes a difference!

[Peter Parts]

here comes the kicker, and the test question for the day:

when you torque to manufacturers specification, does it mean wet or dry bolt tread? can the bolt head or crush washer has oil on it? friction makes a difference!

 

You hit the nail on the head: yes, no, maybe, new or old gasket, depends on whether you have any idea what is recommended for THAT bolt, and even if you knew, do you have any idea how dry your bolt is since bolts on a bike are possible to have some lubricant nearby????

 

(And all those issues are a good reason to be very afraid when you are supposed to use the BMW angle-torque method.)

 

If you use a beam/torsion torque wrench, you can feel what you are doing much better than with a clicker.

 

Ben