Ohlin shocks - talk to me

[Mark Mayo]

I have a 2004 RT with nearly 60,000 miles and original shocks. My trip last weekend over Naciemiento Ferguson road from 101 to PCH followed by Santa Rosa Creek road convinced me that new shocks are needed.

 

Please tell me pros and cons about Ohlin shocks. What will I notice after spending that much?

 

Thanks in advance for your help

[R80RTKen]

Buy them. I did last year. Its like a whole new bike.. Oh, and by the way, that car your driving with 80k miles on the original shocks? Replace those too.. It will feel like a new car.

 

 

I put Ohlins on my R1100Rt last year, and I worried it was a $2500 mistake.. boy, was I happy with the results. It handles like a new bike again. Do it.. Im not rich, and I don't often splurge, but Ive had the bike 13 years and I want to keep it, so I did the suspension right. Cheaper shocks are avaialable, but still at 2/3 the price. Go Ohlins

 

[Richard_D]

I thought I needed new shocks on my 04 RT. I topped off the preload reservoir with hydraulic jack fluid and it was like I had brand new shocks. Here's one of the many links discussing it. http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=204247 Scroll down for the illustrated instructions.

[Huzband]

I thought I needed new shocks on my 04 RT. I topped off the preload reservoir with hydraulic jack fluid and it was like I had brand new shocks. Here's one of the many links discussing it. http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=204247 Scroll down for the illustrated instructions.

 

Rich...really? Topped off only means you mixed a little new fluid with mostly old. May have helped a bit, sure, but nothing near new shocks.

 

Ohlins, as with just about any after market shock, are more substantial in every way. No way around it, new shocks can't be beat.

[Richard_D]

I never said as good as Ohlins or any other after market shock. The fluid in the reservoir disappears and you no longer have any preload unless you crank down on the knob . When it's re filled you have adjustment from all the way out like when it was new. It makes such a huge difference because over the years you don't notice the change because it's so gradual. Almost like adjusting the valves makes a huge difference with the slow decline of your smooth running boxer. On my bike I couldn't believe the difference so I went flying back and forth over some railroad tracks near my house. For a bottle of jack fluid I suggest it's well worth a try. I'm talking from experience here. It may not help all bikes like it did mine due to shocks wearing out differently on different bikes.

[Oldironken]

I just replaced the shocks on my '04 RT with a pair of Hyperpro's/Yaguars I bought through Ted Porter. My bike has 37K on it. I noticed the difference right away. I was on my way to work and unconsciously braced myself for a rough patch of road, as I passed thru it I realized the bike handled a lot better and smoother than in the past. It dawned on me that it was the new shocks. Since then I've aimed for some of the rough spots and have found the ride to be totally different.

 

My experience of buying through Ted was exceptional, he answered all of my questions and educated me on what I needed and why. I was apprehensive in spending the money, but now I am happy I did.

 

[Selden]

New shocks are better shocks. My 1999 RT came with Öhlins, so I have no other point of reference, but properly adjusted, they provide both comfort and control. There is a cost however: they need to be rebuilt rather frequently, 20,000 - 40,000 miles, depending on your luck and riding style. First rebuild of my rear shock was fairly expensive, because the shock body itself had to be replaced. Second rebuild, and rebuild of the front shok were less expensive.

[Peter Parts]

If you are near the weight and riding style of Munich Man, nothing will be any better than the stockers in good shape. There are no mystery features in Ohlins that mean much for street use (except softer, faster wearing out seals that need annual rebuilding but they do have less stiction).

 

If any of the above pre-conditions are false, you can take your stock shocks to a rebuilder and tell him or her exactly what kind of riding isn't working right for you and they will make it right - providing the stock spring rate is in your ballpark.*

 

Or you can spend an inconceivably great amount of money on Ohlins and then pray that some day they will be set properly for you. After-market shocks have lots of adjustments and for some riders that's the only way to get your suspension right.

 

Ben

*you can (and prolly should) lower the spring rate... if you know what you are doing.

[Oldironken]

The old front shock on my RT had no spring, the new one does.

[Peter Parts]

Some might feel that remark is imprecise.

B.

[lkchris]

The fluid in the reservoir disappears and you no longer have any preload unless you crank down on the knob .

 

This means they are leaking and shot and it's time to replace them.

 

There's no other way to describe "disappears."

[Antimatter]

Suspension components are the one accessory I've found to be worth it on motorcycles. I usually troll enough motorcycle forums that I find a used Ohlins shock for a bike I own, that I can then buy for 2/3 to 50% of the original purchase price. There's a fellow who lives near me that rebuilds Ohlins shocks for the local club racing crowd, and he's rebuilt the one I have on my track bike for me. More specifically, he also set up the spring and rebound rate for my weight. I find that it makes the bike much more compliant on rough pavement, and as such make it easier to steer.

 

Is it worth it? Yes, I think so. One area most motorcycle manufactures skimp on is suspension components. I think the vast majority of motorcycles are garage queens, and only get ridden 10,000 to 20,000 miles before they are scrapped or left to rot. That means there really isn't any incentive for manufacturers to spend much on suspension systems.

 

I always tell people to find out if there is a good suspension tuner near them, and to buy whatever brand that person works on. Having someone local who can help you with set-up and rebuild your stuff. I think it cost me around $200 to have my shock rebuilt last time, including parts and labor. And that included swapping the spring once.

[russell_bynum]

The stock shocks on BMW's are terrible...even when new. At 60,000 miles, they'll also be pretty well shot.

 

On top of that, if you're not in the weight range that BMW designed the shocks for, they're not going to work even up to their limited potential anyway.

 

ANY good aftermarket shock, properly sprung and valved for your weight AND setup properly will be light-years better than the stock shocks.

 

For setup...I recommend finding a suspension specialist and working with them to get the new shocks dialed in. This will involve you (and your pillion, if you want to have it setup for 2-up riding) in your gear, sitting on the bike to set static settings and then one or more test rides with some questions and feedback afterwards to guide more adjustment.

 

Make sure you record the "final" settings so that you can reproduce them to get back to a "baseline" setting if you make adjustments in the future.

 

What will new, properly setup aftermarket shocks do for you:

The purpose of suspension is to maximize traction. Good suspension will make the bike ride smoother over bumps and prevent or minimize wallowing in sweepers.

 

When I had my stock stocks on my R1100RT (and Lisa's R1100RS) I always had to choose between getting a comfortable ride and having the bike not wallow and bottom out in the corners. To keep the bike comfortable, I had to dial back on the preload and way back on the rebound damping. But when I did that, it would wallow like crazy and bottom out in hard corners. When I jacked up the preload and damping, it would do OK in the corners but rode way too harsh.

 

With aftermarket shocks, one setting gives both a smoother ride AND more stability in the corners. I was so blown away that I've since upgraded the suspension on every bike I own. Even when the stock components are decent (like my CBR600RR), they're usually designed for midget jockeys, not guys my size and going to proper springs makes a big difference.

[Peter Parts]

The stock shocks on BMW's are terrible...even when new. snip

 

If you take a look at the valve innards and general level of construction, there's really no difference between the stock Showas on my bike and anybody else's expensive shocks.

 

That's a datum and if anybody wants to dispute it, just say so.

 

I used to install Konis on my boxers. It is true that a few decades ago, there were changes to shock design. I hesitate to say if these were major or minor, but they were clearly upgrades and they were detectable for street riders.

 

My stiff S stock suspension was pretty right on the highway for me, but not for the city and country roads, where I spend most of my bike hours. So I revalved the front - described in some detail at URL below and achieved a better compromise.

 

Again, your weight and riding style might be just fine for the stock set-up. Or reasonably close. Or not close.

 

My impression is that 90% of the after-market result is having softer suspension ("plush" is what many people say). To my ears, that sounds more like cruiser biking than great handling. But it's easy and cheap to achieve with re-valving - simple as that.

 

Ben

[russell_bynum]

"My impression is that 90% of the after-market result is having softer suspension ("plush" is what many people say). To my ears, that sounds more like cruiser biking than great handling. But it's easy and cheap to achieve with re-valving - simple as that.

"

 

I agree with much of that. Then there are the people who buy off-the-shelf suspension, have the dealership install and "set it up" (with them not there) and then ride away thinking they've got something.

 

A bunch of it is down to personal preference and riding style as well. I've ridden other R1100RT's with aftermarket suspension where the rider weighs about what I do and I found their settings to be almost completely un-rideable...and they had the same feedback on my setup. I tend to throw the bike hard into the corners with a quick turn-in and I like the bike to squat and then settle when I do that. When I feel it settle, I'm on the gas and picking the bike up to fire it out of the corner. If you do a more gradual turn-in you're never going to get that "settled" motion out of my bike and it can feel disconcerting. etc.

[R80RTKen]

if you take a look at the valve innards and general level of construction, there's really no difference between the stock Showas on my bike and anybody else's expensive shocks.

 

The valving, channeling of fluid, and overall design is different to varying degrees among the various shock manufacturers. While they all basically do the same thing. Wilburs, Penske, Ohlins etc cost more than Showa / Hagon etc for a reason, more design effort, better materials, more quality control points in the manufacturing process, and at the top of the sport bike flavors, a truly state of the art engineering effort has been made.

 

Ohlins makes shocks, they are the company that has always been at the top of their game. You pay more, and you get more, altho not always proportionally more..

 

Ohlins, to the extent that suspension is a factor, want's to be the brand that race winning bikes run. To that end, if you want less shimmy, shake, wallow, maximum stress tolerance etc.. buy ohlins.

 

If you just want to replace the dead ones you have now, buy a set of Hagons and be done, new is better.

 

Note that the higher end shocks can be rebuilt, and rebuilds are like $250 not $1000 per stick, so you pay once for the hardware, and recondition it every 20k miles. Cheaper non rebuildable are $500 each+ every time.

 

 

[BOOCH]

Regarding Shocks,Contact Ted Porter at BeemerShop,in Santa Clara.When I asked him his opinion on shocks for my R1200RT,he suggested Wilbers.Glad I listened to him.

 

Steve

[Richard_D]

The fluid in the reservoir disappears and you no longer have any preload unless you crank down on the knob .

 

This means they are leaking and shot and it's time to replace them.

 

There's no other way to describe "disappears."

I hope you understand I'm talking about the preload reservoir and "NOT" the shock oil. The preload is adjusted hydraulically instead of mechanically like turning a spring tensioner nut with a spanner wrench. A shock can be fine but if there is no preload on it , it can feel like it's worn out. I'm not the only one who's had success with the re-fill. Google it and you'll find numerous threads on it. Also if it is leaking out instead of evaporating, it happens so gradual and probably over a few years , it's just a little maintenance . Don't knock it till you try it.

[Bill_Walker]

A properly set up set of Ohlins gives your bike an amazing "glued to the road" feeling that's incredibly confidence-inspiring, especially on bumpy or patched roads. With 60K on your stock shocks, the difference will be dramatic.

[Selden]

There is always pre-load on the rear spring; the hydraulic jack just allows you to add more preload to compensate for additional weight.

 

I have no experience with the OEM shocks, so I don't know if there is a separate preload adjustment in addition to through the hydrauylic jack, but with Öhlins there is, and I have it set to yield the desired amount of static sag with zero turns on the jack knob, with side cases removed. This not only gives me a known, repeatable starting position, it means there is as little hydraulic pressure as possible on the reservoir when I'm not riding with a passenger, which should reduce tendency to leak.

 

The preload reservoir is a closed system, so there is no way for the oil to evaporate; if oil is missing, it leaked out. Refilling the reservoir is quick and easy to do, but is no substitute for replacing or rebuilding the shock.

[tallman]

You'll notice the bike looks different.

 

Before going Ohlins, research the options.

There is a large difference in price for some aftermarket shocks

depending on setup you choose.

I went with Wilbers, partly becasue of cost/performance and partly becasue there was a factory trained, reputable installer who could rebuild when needed just a few hyndred miles away.

 

You might not notice big changes.

What you will notice is (if set up correctly) you aren't noticing

the irregularities in pavement/bumps etc the way you were which makes the ride better.

Eventually (if set up right) you'll be a happier rider, not becasue you're faster but becasue the bike is better.

YMMV

[EffBee]

Mark, Ohlins of course are very good shocks. I went with Works Performance shocks on both of my RT's, and I absolutely love them. But I've been friends with the WP owner for 3 decades. WP is up in Northridge. Naturally, I would recommend them. You will not be disappointed.

 

I'm also hearing very good things about the Hagon shocks. In fact, I spoke to the U.S. importer at one of the IMS shows, and I like their approach, and the product looks VERY good. The prices are also exceptional (fully adjustable rear shock, with remote preload, for around $600). And they're located in San Marcos, down the road from you. I don't personally know how they perform, but word on the street is they're hard to discern from the big-$$$ shocks.

[tallman]

EFFBEE

 

Know a few who have gone Hagon route over the past years and all were happy.

[Mark Mayo]

I managed to find a guy on this forum with the exact model ohlins set ip just about for me now for under 1/2 price. Sent my money and waiting for delivery. I have a BMW mechanic friend who with install and adjust as needed.

 

Sounds like it will be a great ride.

 

Thanks for your input

[Bob_Minor]

How many miles on them? You may want to consider getting them refreshed (seals, oil and nitrogen) before you have them installed.

[russell_bynum]

Mark, Ohlins of course are very good shocks. I went with Works Performance shocks on both of my RT's, and I absolutely love them. But I've been friends with the WP owner for 3 decades. WP is up in Northridge. Naturally, I would recommend them. You will not be disappointed.

 

At Fernando's recommendation, I had Works Performance shocks on my RT and I agree with everything that he said. For me, the big advantage of Works was the ARS setup in the rear which gives you two different springs and the ability to control when the bike switches from the soft to the heavy spring. It made switching between solo and 2-up a very quick/easy process.

 

I've had Ohlins, Penske, Fox, RaceTech, and GP Suspension stuff on various bikes. They're all good.

[ESokoloff]

WP is up in Northridge.

Actually their in Canoga Park.

 

Heck, even the Northridge Earthquake wasn't in Northridge but rather in neighboring Reseda.

 

 

I'm also hearing very good things about the Hagon shocks. In fact, I spoke to the U.S. importer at one of the IMS shows, and I like their approach, and the product looks VERY good. The prices are also exceptional (fully adjustable rear shock, with remote preload, for around $600). And they're located in San Marcos, down the road from you. I don't personally know how they perform, but word on the street is they're hard to discern from the big-$$$ shocks.

 

Interesting indeed.

Where is the country of origin?

[LBump]

It seems they're from the UK

Though who really knows...

[Boffin]

It seems they're from the UK

Though who really knows...

 

Thay are made in the UK. The UK has _very_ strictly enforced labeling laws when it comes to country of origin.

I have Hagon on my RT and they work for me, but I am no sporty rider. The quality is good and they are re-buildable.

I have the remote pre-load option on the rear, but chose no to do so with the front - but if you wish to they will build them that way.

 

Andy

[Peter Parts]

At Fernando's recommendation, I had Works Performance shocks on my RT and I agree with everything that he said. For me, the big advantage of Works was the ARS setup in the rear which gives you two different springs and the ability to control when the bike switches from the soft to the heavy spring. It made switching between solo and 2-up a very quick/easy process.

 

Sounds like "dual rate" suspension with some kind of easy to adjust internal spacer??? If so, those are wonderful features because dual rate springing works like a charm on a bike. If changing the switch-over point is reasonably feasible, that's an important feature too.

 

Can you please describe in more detail or with a link.

 

On my Airhead, I replaced the atrocious front suspension with home-brew dual-rate springing and a ValveTek Gold Valve.

 

Ben

[russell_bynum]

At Fernando's recommendation, I had Works Performance shocks on my RT and I agree with everything that he said. For me, the big advantage of Works was the ARS setup in the rear which gives you two different springs and the ability to control when the bike switches from the soft to the heavy spring. It made switching between solo and 2-up a very quick/easy process.

 

Sounds like "dual rate" suspension with some kind of easy to adjust internal spacer??? If so, those are wonderful features because dual rate springing works like a charm on a bike. If changing the switch-over point is reasonably feasible, that's an important feature too.

 

Can you please describe in more detail or with a link.

 

On my Airhead, I replaced the atrocious front suspension with home-brew dual-rate springing and a ValveTek Gold Valve.

 

Ben

 

It is actually two springs, a softer one and a harder one. They're stacked on top of each other. Then there's an indexed "cup" at the bottom of the shock with three "Steps" machined into it. Rotating the cup to one of the three positions basically dictates how far the soft spring can compress before the cup bottoms out...which locks out the soft spring and forces the stiff one into action.

 

Here's the link on their site: http://www.worksperformance.com/html/ars_desc.html

 

With ARS, All I had to do to go from solo to 2-up was rotate the cup 1/3 of a turn. If we were really going to be getting aggressive (not that we ever rode aggressively while 2-up. lol) I went to the third step (which was technically "2-up with luggage") and added one click of rebound damping. With that, the only difference I could tell in riding solo and 2-up was the bike transitioned from side to side a bit slower...due to the added weight up high on the bike.

[Peter Parts]

Wow. Great design. That's dual-rate.

 

With all the endless cries-from-the-heart about shocks, easy to forget that the springs are MORE important... but not as conveniently adjustable.

 

Even badly adjusted dual-rates are a big improvement. Hard to get progressive spring geometry work in the confines of a bike.

 

Ben

[Mark Mayo]

Deal became shady and new ones are in the radar now. One less possible headache(used shocks) traded for more cash. Oh well

 

Pretty much everyone has stated that the stock shocks I have now with 57,500 miles are non-existent so I can't wait to test ride the bike when the new ones are installed.

[russell_bynum]

Deal became shady and new ones are in the radar now. One less possible headache(used shocks) traded for more cash. Oh well

 

Pretty much everyone has stated that the stock shocks I have now with 57,500 miles are non-existent so I can't wait to test ride the bike when the new ones are installed.

 

I wouldn't stress about used shocks (possible headaches)...just plan on at the very least having them rebuilt and possibly having them resprung to work for your weight.

[Bob_Minor]

If you haven't bought them yet you should give Kyle racing a call. Great prices and excellent set-up.

[tvpierce]

If you are near the weight and riding style of Munich Man, nothing will be any better than the stockers in good shape. There are no mystery features in Ohlins that mean much for street use (except softer, faster wearing out seals that need annual rebuilding but they do have less stiction).

 

If any of the above pre-conditions are false, you can take your stock shocks to a rebuilder and tell him or her exactly what kind of riding isn't working right for you and they will make it right - providing the stock spring rate is in your ballpark.*

 

Or you can spend an inconceivably great amount of money on Ohlins and then pray that some day they will be set properly for you. After-market shocks have lots of adjustments and for some riders that's the only way to get your suspension right.

 

Ben

*you can (and prolly should) lower the spring rate... if you know what you are doing.

 

I didn't realize the stock shocks were rebuild-able. Is it something any suspension shop can do?

[Boffin]

If you are near the weight and riding style of Munich Man, nothing will be any better than the stockers in good shape. There are no mystery features in Ohlins that mean much for street use (except softer, faster wearing out seals that need annual rebuilding but they do have less stiction).

 

If any of the above pre-conditions are false, you can take your stock shocks to a rebuilder and tell him or her exactly what kind of riding isn't working right for you and they will make it right - providing the stock spring rate is in your ballpark.*

 

Or you can spend an inconceivably great amount of money on Ohlins and then pray that some day they will be set properly for you. After-market shocks have lots of adjustments and for some riders that's the only way to get your suspension right.

 

Ben

*you can (and prolly should) lower the spring rate... if you know what you are doing.

 

I didn't realize the stock shocks were rebuild-able. Is it something any suspension shop can do?

 

They are not designed to be rebuilt - they have welded bodies - but some specialists will tackle the job.

 

Andy

[Peter Parts]

There is only a single material difference between stock shocks and rebuildable ones: the gas valve. (At the factory, they have a secret room where gas is inserted into the shock without needing a valve. But I have been sworn to secrecy.*)

 

Piece of cake to install a gas valve. And I think there is some doubt about the importance of gas for street riders.

 

That's not to say that any suspension shop knows enough to undertake the work or chooses to.

 

Let me say that again: only a single material difference. The innards of my front Showa stock shock were plenty well made.

 

Ben

*partly joking

[Bernie]

There is only a single material difference between stock shocks and rebuildable ones: the gas valve. (At the factory, they have a secret room where gas is inserted into the shock without needing a valve. But I have been sworn to secrecy.*)

 

Piece of cake to install a gas valve. And I think there is some doubt about the importance of gas for street riders.

 

That's not to say that any suspension shop knows enough to undertake the work or chooses to.

 

Let me say that again: only a single material difference. The innards of my front Showa stock shock were plenty well made.

 

Ben

*partly joking

 

You can always eat a few bowls of beans, that should help you replenish your gas shortage.

 

[Mark Mayo]

Sometimes you get lucky!

 

When the first deal fell through, I asked my mechanic for a quote on NEW Ohlins. He called back with news about another customer of his that was changing his RT's shocks from Ohlins to shorter shocks to make riding easier. His loss is my gain. Relatively new (>10.000 miles), pristine Ohlins for $900 plus install.

 

Soon new and probably much better shock experience...

[russell_bynum]

Sometimes you get lucky!

 

When the first deal fell through, I asked my mechanic for a quote on NEW Ohlins. He called back with news about another customer of his that was changing his RT's shocks from Ohlins to shorter shocks to make riding easier. His loss is my gain. Relatively new (>10.000 miles), pristine Ohlins for $900 plus install.

 

Soon new and probably much better shock experience...

 

Make sure you take the time to get them setup correctly. If you do it yourself, be methodical. Document every setting. Do test rides after each change and document what you felt. Plan on spending some time on this...it could take the better part of a day.

 

If you pay someone to set it up WITH (not "for) you, make sure they do the work with you there, in your gear and that they have you take test rides and make adjustments afterwards. When they're done, document the settings so that they can be reproduced later, and so that if you wind up tweaking things down the line you can always go back to a known-good baseline.

[Peter Parts]

++1

 

Even when an expert sets up a shock for you, it may mean no more than any other cookbook recommendation about how much salt to put in your soup. Why should it be? Do you suppose the expert rides like you do? Or when an expert sets up a shock for their idea of a schlump, that you fit the schlump ride profile? Good to start with expert help, but take it from there.

 

Although there are some agreed ride features (like not bottoming on bumps), there is no more "correct" suspension than there is "correct" music.

 

I would only add to Russel's good advice, to define a test route and speeds and use them repeatedly for your runs. Sadly, there're no easy ways to "A-B" test shocks or otherwise test blind. Or you could just assume the most expensive shock feels best.

 

Besides some clickers on knobs, you've got make some reference marks, little dings, white paint dots, nail polish dashes, on the adjustable parts of a shock that enable you to benchmark your settings, return to that set-up, or nudge a bit up or down, as Russel recommends.

 

Pity these mega-dollar shock companies haven't thought about helping you out more with reference marks. Maybe after another 50 years in the business these pro/specialist companies may just think of doing so. That way, you can accurately follow Russel's very sound advice.

 

Ben

[russell_bynum]

++1

 

Even when an expert sets up a shock for you, it may mean no more than any other cookbook recommendation about how much salt to put in your soup. Why should it be? Do you suppose the expert rides like you do? Or when an expert sets up a shock for their idea of a schlump, that you fit the schlump ride profile? Good to start with expert help, but take it from there.

 

Although there are some agreed ride features (like not bottoming on bumps), there is no more "correct" suspension than there is "correct" music.

 

I would only add to Russel's good advice, to define a test route and speeds and use them repeatedly for your runs. Sadly, there're no easy ways to "A-B" test shocks or otherwise test blind. Or you could just assume the most expensive shock feels best.

 

Besides some clickers on knobs, you've got make some reference marks, little dings, white paint dots, nail polish dashes, on the adjustable parts of a shock that enable you to benchmark your settings, return to that set-up, or nudge a bit up or down, as Russel recommends.

 

Pity these mega-dollar shock companies haven't thought about helping you out more with reference marks. Maybe after another 50 years in the business these pro/specialist companies may just think of doing so. That way, you can accurately follow Russel's very sound advice.

 

Ben

 

Reference marks:

For damping, I record the number of turns (or clicks, depending on the setup) from full tight.

For preload (I don't have a bike with hydraulic preload adjustment at this point), I measure the distance from the preload collar/nut to the bottom of the preload threads. I also record the static and rider sag.

 

My relatively limited experience is that mechanical preload doesn't really change over time and sag stays consistent. (I've heard that springs sag over time and I believe that, but I guess I've never had a bike long enough for that to be an issue.) Damping is what tends to go away...so I find myself adding damping to maintain the ride that I want. When I can no longer maintain the ride that I want and the damping is well out from the baseline setting, that's when I know it's time for a rebuild.

 

My $0.02.

[tvpierce]

If you are near the weight and riding style of Munich Man, nothing will be any better than the stockers in good shape. There are no mystery features in Ohlins that mean much for street use (except softer, faster wearing out seals that need annual rebuilding but they do have less stiction).

 

If any of the above pre-conditions are false, you can take your stock shocks to a rebuilder and tell him or her exactly what kind of riding isn't working right for you and they will make it right - providing the stock spring rate is in your ballpark.*

 

Or you can spend an inconceivably great amount of money on Ohlins and then pray that some day they will be set properly for you. After-market shocks have lots of adjustments and for some riders that's the only way to get your suspension right.

 

Ben

*you can (and prolly should) lower the spring rate... if you know what you are doing.

 

I didn't realize the stock shocks were rebuild-able. Is it something any suspension shop can do?

 

They are not designed to be rebuilt - they have welded bodies - but some specialists will tackle the job.

 

Andy

 

Do we know of a specialist who is willing?

[Peter Parts]

From memory, Linderman Engineering in CA is the class-act. A skillful suspension guy in Buckhorn, Ontario, did mine. See URL below.

 

You should treat this like a visit to the doctor. Note your symptoms and what you'd like better so you can explain clearly what changes you'd like to see. Paradoxically, it helps to know something about suspension so you can talk intelligently about road speeds, bump speeds, jacking, bottoming, loads, etc.

 

It might be argued that you are better off starting from a "known" status with your present shocks sent in for revalving rather than jumping off into the unknown. That way the tuner can address oil, valves, whatever, logically instead of facing a dozen set-up decisions with no benchmark to start with as is always the case with pricey after-market units.

 

Ben