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My latest farkles


meagap

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So I found an LED tail light/turn signals molded in blue, which happens to be the same color as my bike. It's on the way, but I still had some concern about visibility as well as not having a red lens/reflector on the rear of my bike. My solution was to add a new third brake light and additional turn signals to the bike, but I wanted to be subtle. I had originally wanted to purchase the BMW extra tail light, but I thought I could do better for cheaper. I came close. I got some carbon fiber, a red Whelen led brake light and some Skene turn signals and this is what I came up with. What do you think? I'll post pics when I have it installed on the bike.

 

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Uh, let's see a view from directly behind the bike and a pic with each light featured. Tail, brake light, turn signals. Maybe a video would be better. Not sure it's going to be bright enough.

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Peter Parts

Nice. Remember, the brightness may be in a narrow angle/elevation. So make sure you get that angle right before mounting.

Likewise, for the angle/distance/elevation at which you take the "test pictures." And the color rendition (which can be changed on some cameras). Cameras are lousy substitutes for eyeballs in this role but hard to collect eyeball-data without a lot of trouble.

 

Ben

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Agree with all the replies. I'm thinking some spacers/washers will allow me to adjust the angle. I just have to figure out what the optimum mounting angle will be for the greatest visibility. I'll definitely post pics of my work.

 

Any thoughts on the height and distance a focused brake light should target?

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.... Any thoughts on the height and distance a focused brake light should target?

 

My suggestion would be to target a typical sedan's windshield, and up to a typical semi truck's windshield at 30 yards, give or take. I would find a dark parking lot some time, and shine the thing on the side of a building. You may find that the spread is enough that perfect aiming isn't critical. Perhaps it would help if you had a friend sit on the bike, so that it's level and the suspension is compressed as it normally would be when riding. Compare your new light to the stock brake light pattern. Bring a tape measure.

 

btw - looks sharp!

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Peter Parts
.... Any thoughts on the height and distance a focused brake light should target?

 

My suggestion would be to target a typical sedan's windshield, and up to a typical semi truck's windshield at 30 yards, give or take. I would find a dark parking lot some time, and shine the thing on the side of a building. You may find that the spread is enough that perfect aiming isn't critical. Perhaps it would help if you had a friend sit on the bike, so that it's level and the suspension is compressed as it normally would be when riding. Compare your new light to the stock brake light pattern. Bring a tape measure.

 

btw - looks sharp!

How can you not like a guy who is such a good scientist.

 

What about tire pressure? What about change in pitch (or is it roll or yaw?) when you brake? (I'm kidding. Elkroeger covered the whole business and I couldn't add a useful thing.)

 

Later edit:

HOLD THE PRESSES... I finally thought of something. Because it is hard to eyeball light levels with sequential testing, you need simultaneous comparison testing. First, buy a second bike identical to yours....

 

Ben

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Great thoughts Elkroeger! Thanks for that. I'll definitely use your suggestion.

 

Ben- I like the way you think. Definitely useful. :)

 

Thanks for all the comments guys. The carbon fiber was pretty easy. I got a sheet for $20, cut the shape with a dremel carbide cut off wheel, then sanded the edges. I've got enough sheet left over to make another mount, or I was thinking about making my own key scratch protector. Cutting the sheet is really messy though. Black dust everywhere! It does look good though, and much better than the sheet metal I was going to use.

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How can you not like a guy who is such a good scientist...

 

Ben

 

Well, that's what they pay me for! Except usually I'm working with fish, and they don't have any brake lights.... :wave:

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, I finally got the light delivered to my doorstep, along with the front LED turn signals/driving lights. I'm VERY impressed with the front LEDs. They are nice and bright, and since they are angled, the brightest light is focused on upcoming intersections which I feel will get me noticed.

 

 

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Here's the before and after shot. The bottom row of LEDs is the driving light, and the rest makes up the amber turn signal.

 

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Here's pics of the rear. I've got the blue light installed, along with my fabricated license plate frame with the Skene LED turn signals on the sides and the Whelen brake light above. I couldn't be happier. I did some quick testing of the angle of the lights, and they are very bright from about 30 yards back at a height of six feet. The signals are the brightest. They'll definitely get a driver's attention. The Whelen brake light is about the same brightness as the two Skene lights. Again, it will definitely get one's attention.

 

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Cutting the sheet is really messy though. Black dust everywhere! It does look good though, and much better than the sheet metal I was going to use.

 

I hope you were wearing gloves and wearing some sort of respirator to keep from breathing that dust. Once inhaled into the lungs the body cannot remove it and will encase it in scar tissue and cause respiratory issues. Really bad stuff to breath in and if you get it in your skin unlike a metal or wood splinter the carbon fibers break off piece by piece and may need to be cut/surgically removed. If you do any more cutting use a shop vac or vacuum as you're cutting to reduce the airborne dust as well as gloves and respirator.

 

BTW, nice work and I really like the front turn signals/light setup.

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Yup, I have a respirator as I do lots of painting too. Still, that dust gets everywhere! The shop vac is good advice. It took some real cleaning to get it off everything.

 

Thanks for the comments! I'm pretty pleased too.

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Nice setup, where did you purchase the lights?

 

I got the blue light from eBay (project-rproject-r is the seller for me, but you can also get them from lightsforbikes). I had contacted Hornig in Germany who produces these, and they tell me they will not be producing any more. What's on eBay now is all there will ever be.

 

The front signals can be purchased on eBay from those sellers as well, or direct from Hornig.

 

The rear turn signals I got from the Skene website. I didn't get the controller module, just the lights which I just wired into the existing turn signals.

 

I purchased the Whelen light from a local security/police/safety supply store.

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Thanks, i have the Skene lights already and get lots of positive feedback from it. It's the front turn indicators really caught me eye...

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So I found an LED tail light/turn signals molded in blue...

 

I like the front LED driving/turn signals. Where did you source them from?

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So I found an LED tail light/turn signals molded in blue...

 

I like the front LED driving/turn signals. Where did you source them from?

 

I got mine from eBay: project-rproject-r, but they're also available from Hornig through their eBay store or directly through their web site store. I've seen them at other online retailers as well. They come in clear and smoke.

 

I gotta say, I really like them and they make the bike much more visible in my opinion.

 

Thanks for the comments guys!

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Thanks, i have the Skene lights already and get lots of positive feedback from it. It's the front turn indicators really caught me eye...

 

Agreed. The Skene lights are amazing. They're very bright. He also produces a control module that I would recommend if you use them as running lights, which I didn't opt for. It puts out a flicker that catches the eye. Real neat product. There are some videos on the internet that show the flicker exaggerated a bit, but to good effect. You'll have to post pictures of your Skene set up.

 

You'll like the front LED signals with the running light option, if you choose to get them. Wiring the running lights was a bit of a pain because of the location of the wire for the existing running light bulb, but I managed to get it done in less than half an hour total. Again, there's a video on the internet that shows you how it's done.

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Skenes light used to be designed to run ONLY with a controller according to him. They would work without it but burn out way early- apparently the controller also is a voltage control. They were brighter without the controller so were clearly seeing more juice.

Not hard to guess how I know this. And he graciously replaced the ones I killed that way (amber front units)

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  • 2 months later...
Skenes light used to be designed to run ONLY with a controller according to him. They would work without it but burn out way early- apparently the controller also is a voltage control. They were brighter without the controller so were clearly seeing more juice.

Not hard to guess how I know this. And he graciously replaced the ones I killed that way (amber front units)

 

How long before yours failed? Were they constantly on or used as signals? When I ordered them he didn't say anything about the lights burning out early if not on the controller. I emailed him pics of the setup too, and he recommended the controller, but again didn't mention anything about the life of the lights.

 

After a few months of use, I'm still getting good function and I'm pretty happy.

 

Does anyone else have any experience?

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