Torque Wrench Question

[Jimozach]

OK, so I am about to ask the "newbie-est" newbie questions of the millenium. I have just used a torque wrench for the very first time. The instructions say that you know you have hit the desired Nm when you hear the "click", at which point you should stop. I followed this in all tightening of plugs when I changed oil, trans and final drive on my R1150 RT-P this weekend (wrench was set according to BMW specs). Is this standard behavior for all torque wrenches?

[DiggerJim]

Is this standard behavior for all torque wrenches?

Just the click type. There are also beam types that have a pointer & scale where you pull the handle until the pointer is at the torque setting value you want. You can also get digital models that will beep when you hit the right amount of torque - mine beeps (as in beep-beep) as I close in on the value and goes to a sustained beep when I reach the torque setting.

[elkroeger]

If you've never seen the insides of a click type...

 

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/torque_wrench/index.html

[na1g]

When you finish using a click-type, return the setting to zero to relieve stress on the internal parts.

 

Beam-types are definitely Neanderthal and should be considered an approximation at best.

 

As with all tools, buy the best you can afford and you won't be sorry.

 

pete

[lkchris]

If you have a Stahlwille torque wrench (the best) there's by design no need to return setting to zero for storage.

 

BMW on occasion will issue a special tool requiring this wrench.

[mwsR1200RT]

Actually, a well made and accurately labeled beam style is arguably the most accurate over time... There is nothing to wear, fatigue, stick, or electronics to fritz out. And if something was to be damaged, it is immediately obvious. I used to oversee a torque control process at an automobile plant. The electronic and clicker wrenches would drift over time, or occaisionally give wildly errant readings. This required frequent (daily or weekly) calibration to trust. The beams never varied unless seriously (and visibly) damaged.

 

Me? I have my old trusty American made beam I calibrated on the $10K torque meter at the plant that I use as my reference standard. It was accurate to within 2%. I use clickers on daily basis as it is more convenient, but I calibrate them to the beam. Each clicker has a different "correction" factor. One is usually off by around 10%, one by 5%, one by 3%.

[eddd]

 

I have both clicker and beam wrenches. I started with beams way back when, and as long as I can see the scale the beams are my go-to torque wrench. As mentioned, they are a simple and effective design that is really hard to damage. I also appreciate that I do not have to reset the tool as I move from one torque value to the next, but the best thing about a beam is that you can see at all times exactly where you are. Waiting for that click can be a bit nerve racking.

[Shiny Side Up]

The best thing about a beam is that you can see at all times exactly where you are.

 

Agreed!!

[flars]

Torque wrenches are 'the bomb' for many things, but please don't use them on the valve covers. There have been waaaaayyy too many cases where the threads have been pulled out of the head because someone mis-read the wrench, or the book. Those bolts need to be 'snug', not 'tight', and you can easily feel them when they bottom out against the head. Just friendly advice.

[Jimozach]

All,

 

Thanks for the "Torque Wrench 101", no sarcasm in that, btw! I had always recalled seeing the beam type. Good advice on resetting down to zero, did not know that. I really appreciate the help!

 

Flars, your comments on the valve covers appreciated, as I will be taking them off shortly to fix some rash.

[Endobob]

All, Thanks for the "Torque Wrench 101" ...

 

#1 - thank you to those that contributed.