Wiring motolights - '12 RT

[Doug_Baliko]

Forgive me if my terminology is incorrect........

 

Can I use a switched positive of my Centech ap-2 fuse unit instead of tapping a switched bike wire for the motolight power switch wire? And would it be better to go to a always live positive on my Centech unit rather than going direct to the positive battery pole for the positive wire off of the relay?

 

Doug

[elkroeger]

So if I understand it properly, your centech is on a relay that switches off with the key.

 

If it were me, I'd take a line out of the switched centech, to run a relay with the main power lead coming from the battery.

 

On the other hand, powering the lights right off the centech might be okay too. Take a look at how many amps your centech is rated for, and your light wattage, and the gauge of your wires.

[Doug_Baliko]

I have a centech ap-2 that has both a switched side off of a relay as well as an always live side directly off of the battery. The relay side has a 60 amp fused relay.

[racer7]

You can take both the trigger (switched) and the power (unswitched) off the Centech if you wish. But I'd opt for power off the battery and trigger off the Centech. Power off the battery ensures highest voltage and best brightness at the lamp where even a tenth of a volt makes a difference.

 

(But LED brightness doesn't depend on supply voltage in the same way so you have more freedom with LEDs).

 

Be sure to fuse the power lead at no more than twice the working load (15-20A). That fusing can be a problem due to the way the Centech is made- it does not use a single fuse for each circuit hookup- has 5 fuses for 8 outputs so causes the need to fuse at the box for combined loads (without exceeding the allowable max for each fuse position) and/or to add additional fuses in the individual leads. That design is the reason I prefer Eastern Beaver or Fuzeblock to Centech gear.

 

If using 55W halogen lights use 12 gauge wire to the relay if you put it up front and 14 gauge to each of the lamps. If 35W you can go down a gauge for both. (eg 14 and 16). If LED, you c an use about anything you're likely to have as current is minimal.

 

Best practice also calls for looming the wire runs to prevent shorts, a waterproof sealed relay to ensure reliability in wet riding (most cheapies supplied in kits are not), a relay socket to ensure connectors cannot be put on incorrectly if removed and to greatly reduce chance of loose connectors from vibration, etc. Run wires where the factory does and cable tie them- remember if you make a mess of wadded up junk you'll be paying for mechanics time to move and replace it at normal services so plan ahead..

 

I use tinned conductor marine wire to eliminate possible copper corrosion over time, prefer deutsch connectors (eg from Wire Care as one source) in the lamp wiring so lights can easily be removed if needed during service work (no spades or bullets), etc etc. If using plain copper wire its wise to tin the end connecting at the fuse panel to ensure a better connection and minimize corrosion possibilities if you keep machines a long time.

 

Eastern Beaver is one handy source of supplies (relays like the compact Matushita type, sockets, connectors, etc)) if you prefer mailorder but I do not care for their variety of deutsch connector- it uses flat pin connectors which are a pain to crimp and solder and do not engage as well in the connector compared to the round pin connector versions from Wire Care and others. I buy marine wire in 100 ft rolls at marine suppliers like West- live on the coast so its easy to find around here.

High quality crimpers and strippers are worth the $ if you do much electrical stuff- stay away from the el cheapo Chinese stuff- they're generally god awful to use compared to Japanese or American tools, making weak connections that may simply fall apart.

[Doug_Baliko]

You can take both the trigger (switched) and the power (unswitched) off the Centech if you wish. But I'd opt for power off the battery and trigger off the Centech. Power off the battery ensures highest voltage and best brightness at the lamp where even a tenth of a volt makes a difference.

 

(But LED brightness doesn't depend on supply voltage in the same way so you have more freedom with LEDs).

 

Be sure to fuse the power lead at no more than twice the working load (15-20A). That fusing can be a problem due to the way the Centech is made- it does not use a single fuse for each circuit hookup- has 5 fuses for 8 outputs so causes the need to fuse at the box for combined loads (without exceeding the allowable max for each fuse position) and/or to add additional fuses in the individual leads. That design is the reason I prefer Eastern Beaver or Fuzeblock to Centech gear.

 

If using 55W halogen lights use 12 gauge wire to the relay if you put it up front and 14 gauge to each of the lamps. If 35W you can go down a gauge for both. (eg 14 and 16). If LED, you c an use about anything you're likely to have as current is minimal.

 

Best practice also calls for looming the wire runs to prevent shorts, a waterproof sealed relay to ensure reliability in wet riding (most cheapies supplied in kits are not), a relay socket to ensure connectors cannot be put on incorrectly if removed and to greatly reduce chance of loose connectors from vibration, etc. Run wires where the factory does and cable tie them- remember if you make a mess of wadded up junk you'll be paying for mechanics time to move and replace it at normal services so plan ahead..

 

I use tinned conductor marine wire to eliminate possible copper corrosion over time, prefer deutsch connectors (eg from Wire Care as one source) in the lamp wiring so lights can easily be removed if needed during service work (no spades or bullets), etc etc. If using plain copper wire its wise to tin the end connecting at the fuse panel to ensure a better connection and minimize corrosion possibilities if you keep machines a long time.

 

Eastern Beaver is one handy source of supplies (relays like the compact Matushita type, sockets, connectors, etc)) if you prefer mailorder but I do not care for their variety of deutsch connector- it uses flat pin connectors which are a pain to crimp and solder and do not engage as well in the connector compared to the round pin connector versions from Wire Care and others. I buy marine wire in 100 ft rolls at marine suppliers like West- live on the coast so its easy to find around here.

High quality crimpers and strippers are worth the $ if you do much electrical stuff- stay away from the el cheapo Chinese stuff- they're generally god awful to use compared to Japanese or American tools, making weak connections that may simply fall apart.

 

Thank you. This is quite helpful. I will use the Centech for the trigger wire but go direct to the battery for the positive power. Here in the Centech unit that I'm using. I bought this set up a; (because I'm electrically challenged) and b; (because it looked much heavier duty then I would have probably done myself)

 

http://www.excelcyclewerkes.com/index_files/Page672.htm

 

Thanks for your help

 

Doug

[dirtrider]

Morning Doug

 

First thing-- you really should determine when your Centech ap-2 triggers. If it comes on with the ignition switch (on) & remains on during engine cranking then you probably should find your trigger source someplace else (like front low-beam light wire). (you probably don't want your Moto lights to remain on during engine cranking).

 

If it (the ap-2) goes OFF during engine cranking then you should be good to go using the ap-2 as a trigger source.

 

The B+ power & ground wires going to the Centech ap-2 are pretty darn robust & that ap-2 uses a 60 amp power relay so you should be able to run the Moto lights off the ap-2 (that is what they were designed to do).

 

If the ap-2 remains on during engine cranking then one option is-- you can just use the front low beam light wire to trigger a seperate power relay that gets it's power from (fused) battery direct, or from the ap-2.

 

Using the ap-2 is a much simpler & less messy way of running your Moto lights. If you think that using the ap-2 will give you enough voltage drop to make a difference then just wire the Moto lights temporarily to the ap-2 then run a voltage drop measurement between the Moto light B+ connector terminal & the battery (+) post.

 

If your ap-2 is staying on during engine cranking (depends on where it was wired into your bike's system) you can either run a stand alone Moto light relay & fused power, OR just re-wire your ap-2

to a bike circuit that goes off with the starter cranking (like low beam)

 

Another choice-- if your ap-2 remains triggered during engine cranking-- is to just live with the fact that your Moto lights will add extra battery draw during engine cranking. Not a real big deal if you start the bike in basically warm weather with a good battery with plenty of reserve. Leaving the Moto lights on during engine cranking might be an issue in real cold weather with a stock BMW low reserve battery.

 

[Doug_Baliko]

Thank you DR. I am pretty good about shutting the Motolights off when I shut the bike down, and turn them on after the bike is fired up.

I have an Odyssey PC-800-P battery so I'm not too worried about cranking power. My preference would be to run the lights through the Centech. As you say, that's what it's there for.

 

Thanks again for your input. It's always appreciated.

 

Doug

 

[dirtrider]

clip-- I am pretty good about shutting the Motolights off when I shut the bike down, and turn them on after the bike is fired up.

--clip

 

Afternoon Doug

 

When you talk switch on & off - that sort of sounds like you are going to install the Moto light KIT. (your original post sort of sounded like you wanted to install to have them come on automatically with key on or engine running)

 

If I remember correctly that kit comes with a wire harness with pre crimped connection rings, inline fuse, & a basically pre-wired power relay.

 

If that is the case then all you need from the AP2 is the (ign switch on) switched power to power the relay pull in coil.

 

You can either hook the Moto light main power wire to the battery (+) post direct, or alternately on the AP2 large red wire (B+ in) terminal, then hook the relay pull in power wire to one of the switched outputs from the AP2.

 

Unless you use a "high amp switch" you are sort of stuck using the Moto light relay as the low current switch they supply needs that relay to control the lights without switch damage & lots or voltage drop.

 

[Doug_Baliko]

Sorry if I wasn't clear. Yes, I am using the wiring harness and switch supplied by MotoLight.

 

Doug

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Doug

 

Then your job just got a lot easier.

 

Just wire their wiring kit in as per their included instructions & for the ign source just use one of the AP2 fused/switched power sources.