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Don't dump your Garmin 2610/2720/2730/2820/BMW Nav II/Nav II just yet...

bakerzdosen

By bakerzdosen
in Bike Related Things

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bakerzdosen

bakerzdosen

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A while ago, the digitizer (the touch screen part) on my Garmin 2730 started to stop responding to touches. It's actually pretty typical from what I've read. It was frustrating especially since I have lifetime maps for it.

 

The problem was that no one seemed to be willing to repair them - and the digitizer wasn't available anywhere. (I'm sure a lot of people here had the same problem.)

 

In a nutshell, the digitizer has FINALLY become available on eBay (it has been for a few months now actually.)

 

I ordered one (specifically from seller zdq20100818) and it arrived without issue.

 

I installed it today and (although it was MUCH tougher to remove the old one than I'd anticipated - it took a razor blade around the edges to remove the old one and I still cracked it) it works fantastically. I actually didn't need to calibrate it (though I eventually did anyway - partially because I felt comfortable doing for the first time in probably 3 years) and it just worked.

 

If you're somewhat handy, it's not a difficult fix. (Probably 11 small screws to get to the digitizer, remove it, replace it, replace two rubber seals, replace the screws, call it a day. 10 minutes once I tracked down the screwdrivers and tweezers.)

 

Not bad for $24 shipped.

 

Actually, I'll probably buy another one just in case...

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smiller

smiller

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Posted

Now you tell me... after I replaced my thought-to-be-unrepairable 2610 with a Garmin Montana. :grin:

 

Seriously, thanks for the info. For that price I think I'll repair the 2610, if only to turn what is currently a brick into something usable/saleable.

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bakerzdosen

bakerzdosen

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Do you have a link to some online directions or guide for the replacement?

 

Thanks.

Nope.

 

I just winged it.

 

I did think about doing a YouTube video since I couldn't find one, but alas, I didn't.

 

Here's the best I can do for an online guide once you receive the new digitizer:

 

• Get a pair of tweezers, a single sided razor blade, and (what seems to be to me - the markings on mine aren't there any more) a PH00 precision screwdriver.

 

• Uncable everything (duh).

 

• Put it screen down and remove the 6 recessed screws (normally I'm fanatical about putting the screws back into the specific hole they came out of, but I messed up and mixed a few of them up, but all 6 seemed identical. Also, loosen the single screw that is top center in the rear that attaches the mechanism that allows you to adjust the viewing angle when attached at the base.

 

• When all 7 screws are removed, you can pry the two pieces apart. Chances are it's not going to be simple because it's an old unit and there is a rubber gasket inside connecting the two parts. Just keep wiggling it and don't try to pry them apart using some kind of tool because you might damage the gasket.

 

• Inside, you'll find the two pieces are still attached with wires. You could remove/unplug a few of them, but some are soldered at both ends, so it's kind of pointless to remove any of the wires. The wires should have enough play in them to allow you to remove the 4 small silver screws (I still used the PH00 and it worked fine) around the outer edges. None of the 4 screws to be removed here are touching the circuit board itself, but rather are a bit below the outer edge of the board and are attached to some kind of silver/grey bracket.

 

• Once those 4 screws are out, the whole interior of the front half of the unit will come out of the front plastic part. (Do NOT lose the black gasket that goes around the outside of the digitizer, but you may want to clean it as long as it's out. I just used soap and water. You probably want to pay attention to the direction that the gasket was facing (I didn't) but to me, it seemed pretty obvious that the biggest "ridge" went towards the external case.

 

• OK, so this is the tough part: Removing the digitizer. I initially tried a small screwdriver. Do NOT follow my example there. Bust out your razor blade and start "cutting" in between the digitizer and the frame where it is attached. It was rather difficult around the cable coming out of the digitizer and around the antenna on top. You can move the antenna off to the side as it's pretty easy to put it back where it belongs. I just started at one corner (opposite the cable) and made my way around carefully. (All while envisioning how I was going to explain cutting my own finger off.) Once you've gone all the way around with the blade (it took me maybe 2 minutes, but those weren't exactly "easy" two minutes) or at least as far as you can go, the digitizer will lift off. Mine was still a bit "stuck" but it wasn't a huge deal.

 

• Now, remove (if it didn't fall out on it's own) the cable attaching the digitizer. You may first have to remove some tape around the frame (I did and then I just reused that.) If the cable doesn't come out on its own relatively easily (don't just pull on it if it doesn't just come out) then you'll notice there is a plastic "ring" around the cable where it is plugged in. You will need to lift this ring up and that will release pressure on the cable and it will come out easily.

 

• This is the other tricky part. I found it MUCH easier to put the cable in using tweezers. Of course, YMMV, but they worked wonders for me. Once the cable is in, (my new one had a white non-removable tip on it, whereas the original one did not) remove the rear screen protector (you DID leave that on - right? :) ) and once you have it lined up, press down (there is still a screen protector on the side you're pushing on with your fingers...) to attach it. (The new digitizer had an adhesive already on it.)

 

• Remove the last screen protector and put everything back together.

 

• The gaskets aren't that tough. As I mentioned, the screen gasket I just placed on the plastic frame with the farthest protruding part going into the plastic. I don't know if that's correct or not, but it did fit rather well if it was the wrong way. The primary gasket was definitely tougher to get everything lined up, but it wasn't bad.

 

• This is just common sense with a ph00, but don't torque the screws too much. There's just no need and stripping one of these screws is NOT something you want to deal with.

 

• Fire it up and test.

 

That's about it. That's from memory, so I might have missed a minor detail here or there, but if I can figure it out, I'm sure pretty much anyone can.

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OoPEZoO

OoPEZoO

Posted
Posted
Now you tell me... after I replaced my thought-to-be-unrepairable 2610 with a Garmin Montana. :grin:

 

Seriously, thanks for the info. For that price I think I'll repair the 2610, if only to turn what is currently a brick into something usable/saleable.

 

Only disappointing thing about the 2610 is that you can't load newer maps than 2008. I still use my 2610 for car trips here and there, but it got me in too much trouble on the bike. A lot of things have changed since those 2008 maps were released. I got lucky when I bought my GS, as the PO tossed in a 276C to sweeten the deal. I liked the interface on the 2610 better, but the having the newer maps on the 276C has been great.

 

Glad to hear the line of 26xx-28xx are now easily repairable though. :thumbsup:

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smiller

smiller

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Only disappointing thing about the 2610 is that you can't load newer maps than 2008.

I think the cutoff was 2010 when they did away with the 'pre-NT' maps but yeah, no more updates after that. I haven't really had any serious issues with the 2010 map version but eventually that has to change with time. The 2610 was a good old girl though with a better UI than the modern car units, and I was a bit sorry to have to retire mine. But the Montana with it's extreme customization capabilities is also pretty good.

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TomSSRT

TomSSRT

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Hey Gang, just picked up on this thread. I didn't think there was anything I could do for my original Nav III which came with my 06 RT. Ended up getting a $200 exchange replacement unit from Garmin. Since then I've learned the original didn't have enough memory to take later updates. I ended up settling for eastern tier of the US without Canada. Is there a way to take these units apart and increase memory? It seems there is limited memory in the Nav III units. I've thought about the potential to retro to the Nav IV. But, have not done anything to investigate.

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