want to add highpower LED driving lights

[SuperG]

I am looking for a pair of LED based driving-lights to augment my Vstrom 650's stock setup, specifically to light up the side of the road to spot deer.

 

I already have a good pair of powerfull Hellas (halogen) that was on my RT1200 but the Vstrom does not have the alternator to support it, not with heated gear ON.

 

all the LED's I find are close to $400, which seems like hwy robbery, but that is an other story/topic.

 

any suggestions/recommendations?

thanks

[racer7]

There are some guys over at ADVRider that sell LEDs at less $ that get decent reviews. Never used the but check them out.

 

Also check out the 4 LED Rigids- about $139 each IIRC and you can roll your own harness for a few $ or buy one.

 

VisionX has some good stuff- see the Solstices line -you'd probably want the 20 degree stuff.

 

Remember there is no one all purpose light. Beam width is the most important spec, lumen output next. All need a rugged waterproof housing for use on a bike.

[eddd]

 

There are cheaper LEDs available, but I would caution you to do some research on auxillary LEDs. Here is my experience.

 

I wanted to add some lights to my FJR1300. Like you, I was concerned about power consumption since the FJR is well under the capacity of my former R1100RT. I read glowing reviews of LEDs sold by ADVMonster over on Adventure rider. The reviews were very positive, and so despite my uncertainty I bought a set. Bottom line is that they were very bright, but provided less than ideal light, and they made being able to see down the road into high beam area worse.

 

The problem I encountered was that these and many similar LED lights being offered do not have the ability to focus light. They throw lots of light out in all directions since they act like a flood light not a driving light. The wide spread cone of light sends lots of lumens up toward tree top level where it is useless. The light to the sides is the most useful, but it did not project very far down the road. The light that strikes the ground in front of the bike is the real problem. It really lights up the road in front of you, mostly too close to be of much use, but the bad part is that the bright light striking the road can blind you to things further down the road. So much light is reflected back to you that your eyes are unable to adjust. I could see much better down the road with the LED lights off and the high beams on.

 

If LED lights can be made for a reasonable price that focus the light the way a Hella FF50 does I'd be in. As I understand it, the actual LED itself does not lend itself to easy focusing. For my ATV the lights I bought would be ideal, but for a motorcycle traveling at highway speed at night they were a bust.

[Railbender]

I have Rigid Industries, US made, LED lights on 2 bikes and love them. The spot pattern beam is recommended for motorcycles although the flood might be more suited for your purpose. http://www.rigidindustries.com/Dually-LED-Light-Flood-p/dually-fl.htm

 

I got mine from Black Dog Cycle Works. A pair is under $200, not cheap but a very high quality light.

 

 

[racer7]

The point about beam width (focus) is well made.

Generally, anything over 20 degrees is worthless. A pencil beam is 5 degrees or less and driving lights are around 10 degrees.

Any light without a published spec for width and output should be avoided.

If you put a lot of punch into an LED that can fill in the low beam a bunch (that's pretty much all of them) you may well need to add punch to the high beam area to avoid the phenomenon noted. HID high beams are not ideal- they don't like being dimmed often- but you could be forced into it to maintain visual balance.

 

I use the VisionX lights for supplementing HID low beams and my Hella FF50s with 65W Osrams for long range on the RT. On my Transalp (310 big W's), I use a Truck LED headlight and a set of Solstice SP120 on the crash bar for conspicuity and additional output. It doesn't make enough juice to power really long range lights and is an around town and fire road bike anyway, not a long range all weather tourer like my RT.

[SuperG]

I am planning to mount it on the crashbar about knee height, so 10 degrees or 20 is the one I should look for?

 

[SuperG]

10 or 20 degree beam? <- I was referring to.

[Matts_12GS]

I run these both as driving lights and tied to my high beam.

 

They are well made, work pretty well and are affordable.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

I run these both as driving lights and tied to my high beam.

 

They are well made, work pretty well and are affordable

 

Ditto. A well focused HID high beam and these got me flashed, often, in Nevada on I-80 where the center divide is 200-300 feet wide.

I guess I achieved the pinnacle of mc lighting.

[MikeB60]

I am planning to mount it on the crashbar about knee height, so 10 degrees or 20 is the one I should look for?

 

I have a set of the Model 50 LEDs from the guy that was mentioned on the adventure rider site. They are 25 degree lights and are very bright. I mounted them on the crash bars on my RT and used one of his rotary dimmer switches to control the output. The switch has a trigger to bring the lights to max power when you flip to high beam. Very happy with the lights.

 

Here is the link

 

 

[eddd]

10 or 20 degree beam? <- I was referring to.

 

At the height you are going to mount them I'd consider the 10 degree. If you look at the link Matt provided the lights are mounted about as high as possible on a motorcycle. When looking at promotional type photos don't be fooled by the "tree branch or coon hunting" shots. These shots look pretty amazing but there is a reason no car or motorcycle systems light up the tree branches...the road and its hazards are on the ground.

[moshe_levy]

The good stuff costs money. But it's worth it IMO. MKL Krista Test MCN

 

-MKL

[tallman]

And this is why I would want a side by side.

 

This pic, from the Krista website,

shows illumination at an unspecified distance.

Around here the poles are @330 feet apart so we're looking at 100-130 yards (based on my local) so not too impressive for the cost as my PIAA's do what appears to be a better job "down the road".

 

In addition, the photo caption says that only the Krista lights were used. That is an awful lot of light spillage, IMO, (see how the street sign on the left is lit) and may be why Moshe wrote that the Krista are almost too bright for use with oncoming traffic at full power.

 

My PIAA's illuminate reflective signs at 3 to 4 times that distance w/out oncoming flash.

Again, just interested in a side by side.

YMMV

 

 

 

[eddd]

Another consideration is where you ride. I had HID aux lights on my RT. I believe they were Trail Tech. They were so bright that when on a county road with lots of driveway markers and mailboxes the reflection could be distracting, and they were capable of lighting up reflectors at 1/2 mile. Even worse was large highway signs, and the worst was highway markings for curves. The reflected light was blinding. I'm sure super bright LEDs will have some of the same issues.

[johnlt]

I used a pair of these on my KTM 690. I had a huge Baja Designs HID (9")for high beam and used two of these small LED lights for low beam. worked great and not too expensive. Available in different beam patterns also.

[racer7]

The higher the color temp the worse it reflects off signs, etc and the more glare in fog.

Its the reason my long range lights remain FF50 halogens w 65W Osrams.

HID and LED are fine for low and mid range and far less desirable for distance in populated areas- better in isolated areas without much signage or traffic.

Nice to see others noting this point- one I have made repetitively in lighting related posts.

[eddd]

I failed to mention that the HIDs were fantastic when out in the wilds of west TX, NM, AZ, UT, NV which is why I bought them in the first place. They were true driving lights. Unfortunately those particular lights were prone to failure of the light and internal balast.

[Mike]

The higher the color temp the worse it reflects off signs, etc and the more glare in fog.

Its the reason my long range lights remain FF50 halogens w 65W Osrams.

HID and LED are fine for low and mid range and far less desirable for distance in populated areas- better in isolated areas without much signage or traffic.

Nice to see others noting this point- one I have made repetitively in lighting related posts.

 

It's good to read an explanation. I've had HIDs in four cars and love them. However, in my Jeep Grand Cherokee, the reflection off of road signs can be pretty distracting. Part of it may be due to the fact that I sit higher, closer to the level of the signs themselves.

 

One more consideration to bear in mind for future purchases . . . .

[RTinNC]

Spent months comparing and researching and ended up with these. Well made, bright, come with everything you need to install! And they are reviewed this month in Rider magazine.

 

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denali-d2d-dual-intensity-led-lighting-2-light-kit-with-full-wiring-harness-and-m8-mount

 

[g_frey]

It is best I think to light the sides of the road. Deer are a constant threat during the dark hours and not the deer that are 100 yards straight ahead of you. I have two driving lights angled out on each side of my RT. One is about 10 degrees out and the other about 20 degrees out. It has decreased my deer panic stops and turns to almost nothing. I use CQ HID light for low beam and Wally World Halogens. The Wally lights had to be repainted after 4 years due to rust. I believe I got all of them for less than $200