Jump starting an R1100RT sucks!

[Trobinson]

Had to jump start the bike last night. Does someone know a better way to get cables on the battery given it's absolutely horrible location for this? I had to remove the fairings to do this and then put everything back on while the bike was running (man that exhaust gets hot fast!).

 

I'm going to make up two cables to attach to the battery posts so I can just remove the seat and attach jumper cables. Main thing to find is plastic covers for the ends that will be attaching the jumper cables to.

 

I don't know yet how old the battery is, but will find out tonight. I'm also going to get a trickle charger (if I can also find an adapter for the port) and see if this one just needs a charge.

[Caddis]

There is a battery terminal post extender that you can install to help in the future. See this thread.. With the seat off of the bike, you can simply clamp onto this post for the positive connection, and clamp to somewhere on the frame for the negative.

 

Others have said that this may be dangerous because it creates sparks, but you can also clamp a screwdriver into the positive jumper cable so that you can stick it under the fairing to touch the positive battery terminal. I used that method a couple of times and it works great.

[drtnsnw]

battery post extenders

Chris

[dirtrider]

Morning Tom

 

For a once in a while jump you can just hook the jumper ground cable to the upper shock bolt or to the engine block. Then use an old long screwdriver with the (+) jumper cable hooked to that to reach in & touch the (+) battery post.

 

 

For more permanent make up or buy a remote jumper attachment.

 

You can also buy a short cheap battery cable from a discount auto parts store then either hook that to the battery (+) post then cut to be just long enough to extend back under the seat, or attach it to the starter big post & let it hang down.

 

Just be sure to cap the (exposed) end of that added cable with an insulating rubber or plastic plug of some sort.

 

[Dave Parry]

+1 for the long screwdriver trick!

 

Dave.

[nrp]

I made a small angle bracket cut and bent from a copper tubing fitting, and mounted it under the positive terminal. It just barely allows me to hold a jumper cable against it. For emergency use only, but it gives me necessary access for charging and if ever needed, jumping.

 

Sort of like a copper screwdriver blade.

[eddd]

 

I added a battery cable with lug ends to the starter post and tie wrapped it to the left side of the frame just beyond the "black triangle". Since this was not going to be used very often, if ever, I simply used high quality electrical tape to protect the exposed end. I always carry a small roll of this tape with me for repairs or in this case to re-cover the end after use. This method made jumping an easy task, though I'm happy to say I never had to use it.

 

If you'd prefer a removable and replaceable cap for the exposed end, McMaster Carr has a good selection here.

[Trobinson]

Morning Tom

 

For a once in a while jump you can just hook the jumper ground cable to the upper shock bolt or to the engine block. Then use an old long screwdriver with the (+) jumper cable hooked to that to reach in & touch the (+) battery post.

 

 

For more permanent make up or buy a remote jumper attachment.

 

You can also buy a short cheap battery cable from a discount auto parts store then either hook that to the battery (+) post then cut to be just long enough to extend back under the seat, or attach it to the starter big post & let it hang down.

 

Just be sure to cap the (exposed) end of that added cable with an insulating rubber or plastic plug of some sort.

 

didn't think about using a screwdriver. The cable attachments are what I'm thinking of doing.

 

On another note, what trickle charger is recommended? Cycle gear has a couple on sale that I was going to look at. One is a Megaboost for $35.

[dirtrider]

On another note, what trickle charger is recommended? Cycle gear has a couple on sale that I was going to look at. One is a Megaboost for $35.

 

Evening Tom

 

That really depends of what type of battery you have. The old lead/acid battery takes a different charging voltage/maintainer voltage than some of the newer AGM's or Gel's.

[Trobinson]

Pretty sure it's a lead acid battery. The shell is a translucent white and I can see the acid level inside.

[gmcjetpilot]

Excuse my ignorance by my R1150RT can be charged through one of

the two "cigarette" or Power jacks on the side of the bike. I

assume I could jump it there as well. I suppose the jack has

some Amp limits.

 

Can jump from the side power jacks? Yes/No.

 

Even if I could not jump, I know I can charge battery with out

any effort; using my charger at 10 amp charge (verses a

reasonable 2 amp charge), the battery could be charged from dead

to full in an hour to two hours, assuming the battery is not bad.

[lkchris]

Nope, can't jump via the power socket.

[AndyS]

Hi Tom,

The 1150 battery post extender is well worth the investment next time you gain access to the battery.

Section 61.2311 items 9,10,11,12

 

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51765

[Nathan Margolis]

I had a 2002 R1150RT and this topic always concerned me, too. For that reason I exchaged batteries every 4 years with a good AGM battery to hopefully avoid the need to jump.

I did pickup a cigarette lighter to cigarette lighter jumper cables which is nothing more that a trickle charger just in case for trips. Also, did have a Battery Tender connectors on batter thinking if I ever did have a bad battery on a trip that could rig something up to get power to battery for a start.

Have a 2013 R1200RT and was glad to see battery is accessible underneath the seat.

[Trobinson]

I found last night I can just remove the screws securing the fairing to the tank and the side screws and pop the fairing out of the tank groove and gain access. I will put some sort of post extender on the battery as well. I also found it has a connector/cable for a battery charger plus the port on the dash. Neither of these would work for a jump though.

[Trobinson]

Even if I could not jump, I know I can charge battery with out

any effort; using my charger at 10 amp charge (verses a

reasonable 2 amp charge), the battery could be charged from dead

to full in an hour to two hours, assuming the battery is not bad.

I wouldn't want to charge any battery that fast. Too much chance of gas buildup inside the battery and risk of explosion. This might not be the case with an AGM or gel battery, but you're still creating quite a bit of heat in an enclosed space.

[philbytx]

Do NOT attempt to jump from the accessory sockets !

Some have tried, all have failed LOL!

 

Also, if your RT does not have the battery extender "kit" on it, the parts are well worth the small investment.

 

You will need part numbers 9 through 12 HERE

[tallman]

One can always push it, just use a higher gear when you jump on and pop the clutch.

[dirtrider]

One can always push it, just use a higher gear when you jump on and pop the clutch.

 

Afternoon tallman

 

That works OK IF you have enough battery power remaining to run the fuel pump & fuel injection computer but won't get them started if you have a completely dead battery (like lights left on overnight).

 

[tallman]

But it is great exercise.

 

Espaecially if you leave it in 1st.

[4wheeldog]

But it is great exercise.

 

Espaecially if you leave it in 1st.

 

With the kill switch in "Off". I pushed that guy up and down that street, asked him 3 times if the switch was on, and when we finally stopped to rest, I found his kill switch in the O_F_F position. Tickled the starter and it fired right up.

 

I will never push another's bike without confirming that for myself.

[Torontonian]

Optimate for my 96. If your battery is getting weak it's finished for the needs of this big bike as the ABS absolutely requires a strong battery. Or if the clock develops a mind of it's own. And of course cranking issues. Shouldn't need to boost ever really...

[Bruce H]

I'd buy a new battery and eliminate the issue. the charging system doesn't like a dead battery either.

[Trobinson]

I'd buy a new battery and eliminate the issue. the charging system doesn't like a dead battery either.

Done. Haven't started it with the new battery yet as I'm waiting to install a short extension wire on the hot post. Will be done by weekend.

[gmcjetpilot]

Nope, can't jump via the power socket.

Why not? It is a direct connection to the hot battery bus. Can you elaborate on your comment.

[gmcjetpilot]

Even if I could not jump, I know I can charge battery with out

any effort; using my charger at 10 amp charge (verses a

reasonable 2 amp charge), the battery could be charged from dead

to full in an hour to two hours, assuming the battery is not bad.

I wouldn't want to charge any battery that fast. Too much chance of gas buildup inside the battery and risk of explosion. This might not be the case with an AGM or gel battery, but you're still creating quite a bit of heat in an enclosed space.

 

Do you have some reference for your comment that says 10 amps risk explosion.... With respect that is not correct... Yes you can build up hydrogen gas when ever you charge a flooded lead/acid battery, and it will vent. The risk is having a spark nearby during charging with put proper ventilation in the area. I think your concern is not warranted. If you have some data or reference about exploding a battery I'd like to see it. You are limited by Ohms law.

 

Modern solid state, software controlled chargers, will limit the Amps and voltage, even if you select (max) 10 amps to charge a small battery. The battery has internal resistance and therefore the "amps" or current will be limited, because voltage is also regulated with a "12volt" charger. Current (I) will be limited based on Ohms law V = IR; Again battery chargers are smarter and limit both amps and voltage, it does not just apply a full 10 amps. The battery it self due to internal resistance will limit (I) current. Fast charging should be limited because it can damage flooded batteries and boil off the electrolyte....

 

What is bad is jumping a dead battery. Also remember if you jump ANY dead battery the alternator voltage regulator will go right to the full voltage and the battery will fast charge at what ever rate the V=IR equation works out to. The alternator voltage regulator will go to set voltage. With the dead battery it will draw as many amps as the alternator can give at that voltage. Again by Ohm's law, knowing (V) voltage of System and ® resistance of battery, you know current, which will initially be high. This is why after jumping dead batteries peoples alternators die. The alternator has to put out max Amps and that sometimes kills them.

 

I DO AGREE fast charging is bad for battery life.... if done too frequently. Again this is all in the context you have to do it. If you have time charge it.

[Boffin]

Nope, can't jump via the power socket.

Why not? It is a direct connection to the hot battery bus. Can you elaborate on your comment.

 

Thin wires. Very thin wires if you have one of the bikes fused at 4 amps rather than the 15amps that most had.

 

When you jump start the bike you will pull in the order of 80-100 amps for a short period, dropping to 40-60 amps during cranking.

 

Pull that much current through the power socket wiring and it will burn.

 

 

Andy

[Trobinson]

Do you have some reference for your comment that says 10 amps risk explosion.... With respect that is not correct... Yes you can build up hydrogen gas when ever you charge a flooded lead/acid battery, and it will vent. The risk is having a spark nearby during charging with put proper ventilation in the area. I think your concern is not warranted. If you have some data or reference about exploding a battery I'd like to see it. You are limited by Ohms law.

 

Modern solid state, software controlled chargers, will limit the Amps and voltage, even if you select (max) 10 amps to charge a small battery. The battery has internal resistance and therefore the "amps" or current will be limited, because voltage is also regulated with a "12volt" charger. Current (I) will be limited based on Ohms law V = IR; Again battery chargers are smarter and limit both amps and voltage, it does not just apply a full 10 amps. The battery it self due to internal resistance will limit (I) current. Fast charging should be limited because it can damage flooded batteries and boil off the electrolyte....

 

What is bad is jumping a dead battery. Also remember if you jump ANY dead battery the alternator voltage regulator will go right to the full voltage and the battery will fast charge at what ever rate the V=IR equation works out to. The alternator voltage regulator will go to set voltage. With the dead battery it will draw as many amps as the alternator can give at that voltage. Again by Ohm's law, knowing (V) voltage of System and ® resistance of battery, you know current, which will initially be high. This is why after jumping dead batteries peoples alternators die. The alternator has to put out max Amps and that sometimes kills them.

 

I DO AGREE fast charging is bad for battery life.... if done too frequently. Again this is all in the context you have to do it. If you have time charge it.

 

GMC, I do understand ohms law (work with it a lot), but have seen the bubbling of a lead acid battery and was more concerned about the chemical reaction. Yes, my concerns are not that warranted with a good charger and well ventilated area. The charger I currently have is a very old 10A unit with no solid state electronics in it, but it will only charge at what the battery will draw. In the case of my old battery it was about 2A when I put it on this weekend. So, your argument is well taken and I'll try to remember chemistry is not my strong suit.

[Boffin]

I will add one more tip - if you connect up jump leads and hit the bike starter straight away you are limiting your chances of success as the dead battery sucks most of the power, leaving very little for the starter.

Far better is to connect the donor vehicle/battery and then go have a cup of coffee. This will get a basic level of charge into the dead battery - and warm it up some, which reduces its internal resistance.

Now when the starter is engaged it, and the ECU, have enough power to work with.

 

On one occasion, the day before I traded my '02RT for my '04RT, I left the parking light on all-day. Came out to a dead battery. As the bike was still under warranty, I called out BMW assist. 30 minutes later a silver 5-series estate turned up. He connected a lead from a socket in the back of the car to one of the accessory sockets.

Next, he asked if would prefer tea or coffee - I'm English, so opted for the tea - which was brewed and drunk during a conversation on the merits of bikes vs cars....

 

Once finished, he disconnected the lead and the bike fired up on the button using its own battery.

 

Andy

[AndyS]

Far better is to connect the donor vehicle/battery and then go have a cup of coffee.

Andy

 

I hate coffee. So how do I jump start mine?

[Boffin]

Far better is to connect the donor vehicle/battery and then go have a cup of coffee.

Andy

 

I hate coffee. So how do I jump start mine?

 

The comment was intended for the US market. You are English and should therefore drink tea (tax-paid)

 

Andy

[4wheeldog]

Far better is to connect the donor vehicle/battery and then go have a cup of coffee.

Andy

 

I hate coffee. So how do I jump start mine?

 

If you were riding a Hardly in the U.S., you could just go back in and have another beer.

[oldyam]

I will add one more tip - if you connect up jump leads and hit the bike starter straight away you are limiting your chances of success as the dead battery sucks most of the power, leaving very little for the starter.

Far better is to connect the donor vehicle/battery and then go have a cup of coffee. This will get a basic level of charge into the dead battery - and warm it up some, which reduces its internal resistance.

Now when the starter is engaged it, and the ECU, have enough power to work with.

 

On one occasion, the day before I traded my '02RT for my '04RT, I left the parking light on all-day. Came out to a dead battery. As the bike was still under warranty, I called out BMW assist. 30 minutes later a silver 5-series estate turned up. He connected a lead from a socket in the back of the car to one of the accessory sockets.

Next, he asked if would prefer tea or coffee - I'm English, so opted for the tea - which was brewed and drunk during a conversation on the merits of bikes vs cars....

 

Once finished, he disconnected the lead and the bike fired up on the button using its own battery.

 

Andy

 

I actually carry a "charge lead set" which is a DIN plug for the accessory socket with a Red and a Black cable connected with a Big croc clip on each cable for equalising the battery in this sort of situation off any 12v battery.

 

[Torontonian]

Bofin that's great little story. Gotta have a new battery,these Rt's do not tolerate a dying battery. I'll remember that tip to connect to donor healthy one then go for coffee,return and start.The clock will surely need resetting as it is the first indicator. Boosting needs big direct cables to battery ,not by wimpy bleedoff wires. They melt. Sonds like time to remove all those fiddly tiny screws from the body panel. Not my design for practicality for sure.

[Trobinson]

I put a new battery in and hooked it up the other day (also put a short 10ga wire on the pos post for jumps). First start and the engine didn't crank over any faster. Is this normal for this engine? I mean, my kawi 500 cranks over like it's a crazed machine with a good battery, while this one is like a snail. It started right up so I just want to know if this is what I should expect.

 

On another note, I was looking for a possible air leak on the right TB once it started warming up and didn't find anything, but I noticed the idle was no longer at 1500 (where it had been) and had dropped to ~1100. Could the low battery have been the cause?

[Don Beissel]

I have used the long screwdriver trick. Works like a charm!