HELP 28L Top Case Disassembly - To Remove Lock Cylinder

[ItsPhilD]

I have in my possession a 28L Top Case with a lock cylinder and no key. The top is unlocked. I am trying to remove the lock cylinder so I can re-key it to my ignition.

 

I can not figure out how to remove the inner liner of the bottom section so I can attempt to remove the lock cylinder. I have removed the lid and all internal screws but can't figure out what my next step is. I have looked at the microfiche but it was no help. I would appreciate help from anyone who has been through this or knows what the heck I need to do.

[Sailorlite]

A common procedure is to carefully "drill out" the presently installed lock cylinder. Many (most?) dealers have experience doing this. The experience part has to do with depth and bit diameter.

 

[Tri750]

You can remove the lock cylinder without the key and without drilling, but you need a tool made with a Dremel fashioned from an old hacksaw blade.

 

A newby may take 15-20 minutes to get it out, an old pro, 10 seconds.

 

The thing is, if the cylinder was ordered for the original bike by VIN, the wafers will be locked in.

It is possible to disassemble the cylinder to unlock the wafers but it's less trouble to buy the universal cylinder and re-key yourself . The part number ends in 202.

 

There is a caveman way involving a Dremel tool to adapt a VIN specific lock cylinder to your key, but it's such an ordeal, it's hardly worth it I think.

 

I am pretty sure I have a pic of the tool somewhere.

 

[LBump]

You don't have to drill the cylinder if you have the 'tool' as described by Tri750.

 

The 'tool' is a non manufactured BMW service tool which is handmade by those that know. There is a local dealer here that use to be in the locksmith business who saw the need for such a tool with these cylinder/key swaps. Thus, he made the tool.

It's simple once you know.

 

You might reach out and contact wyman.winn on this forurm. I believe he's disassembled his top case and knows the German peculiarities of the case.

 

Good luck with the re-key adventure.

 

Post you findings... it will be a help to others.

 

 

[Tri750]

I have a pic of both tools for lock removal. The upper is a large paper clip for the 1100-1150 system type cases. The lower is a hacksaw blade carved out for the R series bags, and trunk lock removal.

I can email the pic to someone smarter than I to post if someone wants to see them.

 

[AnotherLee]

Tri750's tools:

 

[Tri750]

The lower tool will also remove the later system lock cylinders when you don't have the key. These have an updated retaining wafer that instead of being a hollow rectangle, are a U shape or three sided rectangle. The omission of the 4th side prevents the paper clip tool from depressing the wafer.

The newer cases with the laser cut key have a similar U shaped retaining wafer.

The tool is inserted, by feel, the tang of the tool drops into the slot the retaining wafer lives in and you twist and rake the wafer in the direction the tang is facing. This, by friction pulls the wafer down releasing the cylinder.

If you're not sure which way the lock wafer is facing, you insert the tool 180 degrees and try again.

I've taught 2-3 people how to use these tools over the years so it's not magic.

 

I took apart one case in the beginning and swore never again. I then saw BMW's recommended procedure thru the access hole tried it with no success and after that, did dozens with the hacksaw blade tool. They break after repeated use, so you make another and fine tune it as you go.

 

These are no secret. So it's doubtful if some gang of thugs is going to start removing lock cylinders on BMW's because they see these tools.

But of anyone gets offended because they and the technique are posted, it can be deleted.