new radio electrical draw

[Pete B]

I recently installed an aftermarket radio in my 03 r1150rt. I didn't have the factory plug for the radio side, so I cut off the plug on the bike side and wired the speakers, power and ground directly. The power supply is always hot. The problem that I'm having is the radio memory and clock have enough electrical draw to run down the battery quicker than usual. I need to find a switched power supply to kill the power to the radio when not in use. What would be a safe power supply to draw from? Or should I install a kill switch on the original power supply? Any input is always appreciated.

Thanks,

Pete

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Pete

 

If you kill the keep alive power to the radio you will then have to re-set the clock & radio presets after every key-off.

 

Is your battery in good shape?

 

If you add a simple off/on switch you can retain clock time & keep radio pre-sets all day & even overnight but you could turn it off for longer bike storage.

[Pete B]

I'm not really concerned about the clock, the factory dash clock works fine. The radio clock isn't visible unless I open the door also. I don't really use the radio presets much. I usually drop in a cd or just plug in an mp3 player. I'm thinking that I'll probably go with an illuminated toggle switch to remind me to turn it off when I'm finished riding. The battery seems to be in good shape. The bike cranks over a bit slowly after its been sitting for 3-4 weeks, but never failed me until I installed the radio.

[elkroeger]

I think a lot of car stereos have basically two power leads. One for the main power, and another for the clock/memory. The main power gets a switched supply, and the other is always on. I had one that was wired incorrectly by the previous owner, and even though the radio was "off", it still drew a lot of power. After sorting it out, the memory lead draws essentially nil.

 

The proper way to do it (as opposed to a toggle switch) is to put in a relay. Control the relay with a switched lead, such as the tail light, and then run the switched side to the battery.

[Pete B]

OK. Since I am an Architectural Glazier, I don't know much about relays and what they do. Could I possibly run a wire directly from the tail light to the main power on the radio, and call that good?

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Pete

 

Basically NO, you really don't want to do that.

 

You should have a key ON / R (radio) position power source already at the radio (old radio connector) you just have to install fuse in the fuse box cavity (8) for it to work. That wire is Violet colored.

[elkroeger]

Automotive relays, like we might use here are really simple little widgets. It's just an electrically operated switch, like a toggle. The point to them is that you can have a toggle on your dash and run some high current item like driving lights without running all that juice through the toggle switch, with big heavy wires going all over the place. Another way to use them is, if you want your widget to shut off with the key, you can tap into an easy to find wire, like the tail light, and you won't overload that circuit because the relay takes very little power to make it switch. All the juice runs through bigger wires on the other side of the relay. Does that make any sense?

 

But at any rate, take dirtrider's advice and use the existing wiring, if possible.

 

[cris nitro]

OK. Since I am an Architectural Glazier, I don't know much about relays and what they do. Could I possibly run a wire directly from the tail light to the main power on the radio, and call that good?

Yeah but I'll bet you can lay down a mean bead of silicone!

[Pete B]

Ok, now it makes sense. Just any relay from the auto parts store should work or do I need something more specific in regards to amperage.

[Pete B]

Yes, I've shot miles and miles of the stuff.

[Pete B]

Thank you D.R. and Eric. Problem solved. Now I can pack all of my gear up and get ready for a motorcycle camping trip in the Sierra Nevada mountains this Memorial day Weekend.

Pete