Tire Changer?

[lkraus]

Time for new rubber, not looking forward to the usual garage floor wrestling bout with my tire irons, bits of plastic jugs and 2x4 scraps.

 

The cheapest No-Mar ($395) would be a budget stretcher, but they recommend the Classic model ($645) for BMW wheels - not worth it for a tool I only use once every year or two. The Harbor Freight changer (69686) and motorcycle wheel adapter (60180) is currently on sale, add in the necessary good Mojo stuff and I can get by for less than $250. Unfortunately, the HF stuff has been getting uniformly bad reviews the past year or two. Also, I might need to find a smaller rod (something about being too thick for axle holes)?

 

Any other options for DIY changers that won't break the bank?

[ltljohn]

I have the Harbor Freight setup along with the mojolever/mojoblocks. Take a bit of care and they work fine. I have changed enough tires that it has paid for itself.

[Scud]

I also use the Harbor Freight set up with the Mojo blocks and levers. I would not use the HF tool without at least fitting the Mojo blocks - without these blocks, damage to the rims seems almost certain. I use a piece of copper ground-rod for the center post. It's not a perfect fit, but I figure the copper is softer than the other metals and should not do any harm. I use motion-pro rim guards too.

 

I also decided to buy a premium wheel balancer from Marc Parnes. I set that on two saw-horses and balance away - no need for a special wheel-balancing stand.

 

One other thing - I really like Ru-Glide, the tire mounting lubricant. Buy a gallon of that and you're set for life...

 

I just got all the tools early this year. But I've done 5 tires now - that's probably break-even for me.

 

While the tires were off, I installed right-angle valve stems. It's so much easier to check the tire pressure now.

[lkraus]

I've spent most of the evening searching Google and I am not seeing any other reasonable options. Read the HF instructions and watched a bunch of Youtube videos - I understand the center post issue now and I think I have something that will work. The HF tire mounter is now $40, the M/C wheel adapter is also $40, and I've several 20% off coupons. Taking Mom to her doctor tomorrow, whose office is fortuitously next door to one of the local HF stores - guess I'll go with the flow. I already have the Marc Parnes balancer and rear wheel adapter, will pick up the Ru-Glyde. A set of PR4 GT's are due here tomorrow, but I've got a few hundred miles left on my rear PR3. That will give me a few weeks to get in touch with Mitch and get my mojo working.

[Twinsig]

it'll work..

[AlanS.]

I have the No-Mar Classic and it is worth it. I bought mine about 10 years ago for roughly $800 as a package with tools and lube.

 

Alan

[eddd]

 

I've had and used the HF system for years and have changed dozens and dozens of tires with it, all of them by myself.

 

I purchased the Mojoblocks and lever. The blocks were a good addition, but it is my opinion that the Mojolever is not worth the money. The lever is marginally OK for removing the tire, but I find that getting the plastic end to ride where it belongs on the rim can be difficult. The lever will usually catch right at the point where the plastic and the metal join. More importantly, I've found that trying to mount the tires with the Mojolever is almost always a frustrating pain in the a**. I stopped using it long ago. I'm not alone in this opinion. It is one shared with others I know, but I've never seen anyone express this openly on the forum. This isn't a dig against Mitch, just personal experience.

 

I've found that a much better bar is the one offered by No-Mar. It will dismount tires more easily due to the way the plastic end is designed. It is also a much better tool when it comes to mounting the tires, but I've found that spooning the tires on is actually much faster and less frustrating than either lever/bar. I use high quality spoons and can pop the tires on easily. Rim protectors can be used if you feel the need.

 

Two other No-Mar products are useful, the Yellow Thing can come in handy, and the Tire Lube Paste. I have both the paste and a gallon of Ru-Glide. I use the Ru-Glide to make dismounting easier. I liberally spray it on the bead area. The No-Mar paste is a superior product in that it is a better, longer-lasting lubricant. This becomes really important on hot or low humidity days when the soapy water, or even the Ru-Glide evaporate before the job is done.

 

I also have a series of small wooden blocks I use to keep the tire in the center of the rim when mounting the tire. This makes it easier on the tire and the person mounting it.

 

I didn't want my tire changer permanently mounted, but bolting it to concrete makes everything easier. I used to have it bolted to a partial plywood sheet, and it worked OK, but I eventually drill holes and put threaded inserts into my concrete parking area. 60 seconds to bolt it down and the job is much easier.

 

One other suggestion,

video is the best I've found to show you the basics for easy tire mounting even when using the HF changer. I still review it just to prior to mounting my tires. The places where she applies the paste is the key to making the installation much easier.

 

 

 

[realshelby]

I have the Harbor Freight setup. I also have the Mojo blocks on it to protect the rim. I also have the Mojo lever, but no longer use it on bike tires. I find the Harbor Freight setup holds the tire well ( as well as breaks the beads easily ) and that allows me to use high quality spoons and plastic rim protectors with less effort. Holding the rim is 3/4 of the job!

 

I have balancing equipment. I used to not balance tires. Now that I have a balancer I probably...well I might still use it. But I cannot tell ANY difference. I have even removed the weights on a ride to compare. My old theory is this: if the tire is well made and in tolerance, weights won't make any difference. If you feel a wobble or vibration the tire is probably not well built and I don't want it on the bike anyway.

[SinNH]

I have the No-Mar Classic and it is worth it. I bought mine about 10 years ago for roughly $800 as a package with tools and lube.

 

Alan

Yep me too,I believe it will hold some value. Also got a "yellow thing" and two "Extra Hand" clamps, they help a ton when working alone.

[randy]

so I have been changing tires for about 15 years now, first 5 with HF and last 10 with a no-mar. many of the comments above apply to my experience as well. Only difference I use the mojo level not the NoMar lever. maybe because I started with the mojo level on my HF unit I just carried it over, but I never got a tire mounted with the NOMar lever. In fact I have two mojo levers just in case Mitch ever stopped making them.

 

anyway had the mojo blocks been available I might have kept the HF unit. It worked that well.

 

one reason I spent the money on the NoMar unit is the waist high bead breaker process. the HF bead breaker is on the ground the NOMar is waist high.

 

+1 on the yellow thing from NoMar. I also have the NoMar dirt bike blocks. Trying to change a dirt bike rim with the Mylar blocks is nearly impossible.

 

+1 and Ru-Glyde. I have used about every concoction devised or posted on the web for a tire lubricant. nothing matches Ru-Glyde.

 

the NoMar tire paste worked very well, I just preferred the liquid Ru-Glyde. I put some Ru-Glyde in a spray bottle spray it on, and the tire comes on and off as easy as can be.

 

The first time I replace a tire I take the time to balance the rim. Just the rim with no tire. From that time on I just mount the tires and never balance them. About every 10 tires I check one, just to see, and it rarely needs addt'l weight or a change in weight. so it seems to work

 

finally, Yes the NoMar is expensive. And as noted above, I would have probably just kept the HF if Mojo Blocks had been available. However I have now had mine for 10 years. Never a broken or damaged part. It changes tires for a group of about 10 rides here in the Atlanta area. HF will work just fine, but if you have the money, NoMar is worth it over the long haul. There is no doubt in my mind in another 10 years when I can longer ride, or maybe can physically no longer change my own tires, I will pass it down to someone else and it will last them another 20 years.

 

in summary

either changer will work

mojo lever (probably does not matter I just started with this)

mojo blocks (if HF)

Ru-Glyde

NoMar yellow helping hand

Marc Parnes balancer.

 

once you have done a couple tire changes, 10 minutes is about all it takes.

[Scud]

FYI - I went low-budget on the HF stuff, and it does work. But I mounted it on a pallet and it takes some garage space. I looked at other options that are hitch-mounted. If I had it to do over again, I might go that way, because it would be easier to store, and would be more portable.

 

As for the levers, I can only compare the Mojo to tire irons. At first, I couldn't get the MojoLever to work and had to resort to spoon-assist. Now that I've done a few, I figured out the technique:

 

1) Position the Mojolever on the bead - and so it can make the maximum rotation.

2) Lube bead

3) Force "trailing" half of bead onto rim by hand (and into center of rim)

4) Rotate lever to pop "leading" half of bead on rim

 

I haven't got to the 10-minute mark yet, but I know I can do it faster than I can drive round trip and wait for someone else to do it - so it does save time and money for me.

[mistral]

I had the Habor freight stuff and I bought Nomar bar. Did not like the Nomar bar. Got rid of the Harbor freight stuff and made my own tire changer. I got the Mojolever and I love it. I can do a tire pretty quick. I guess it is just what you like.

 

Ron

[randy]

the steps 1 - 4 above are very good. and yes forcing the trailing half of the bed down into the rim is very important. I use the NoMar yellow helping hand, and that has really cut the effort in half. Again as he noted it is all technique, once you have it down, it takes 10 minutes to mount a tire. I am sure it is the same with the NoMar bar, I just never took the time to learn the technique required.

[Antimatter]

As others have said, I have the HF set-up with Mojoblocks and a Mojolever. I also have the No-mar mount/dismount bar. I started with a 14" car tire rim and two spoons, so moving up the HF rig was heaven, and adding the blocks was another big revelation. I actually prefer the Harbor Freight bar for mounting tires, but I have a piece of shampoo bottle zip-tied to the inside edge to prevent leaving red paint on my rims. You can see my instructional video on it

. This was pre-Mojoblocks, when I'd wrap electrical tape around the HF rim clamps.

 

I'm always tempted to move up to the No-Mar system, but I can't justify the cost for a new one. If one falls into my lap for a great price, I'll buy it. But right now I'm doing about 3-4 changes per year (track days on sport bikes account for most of the changes), so it's not a big deal to keep using the HF setup.

[Gene#3]

I used the c clamp/zip tie method last month. Worked better than my screwdriver method... back in 1980 or so I think... If the local BMW dealer continues to price match I'll let him do it... IF ;-)

[randy]

I have been wanting to do some practice using the zip tie method. So far I have not had the time and rim availability at the same time. But I do hope to become proficient at it. I think that method maybe awesome for dual sport back road emergency R&R.

[John Ranalletta]

IMO and experience, you can get the tire off in the time it takes to thread the zip ties.

[Stan Walker]

IMO and experience, you can get the tire off in the time it takes to thread the zip ties.

 

Off? did you mean on?

[randy]

interesting, I am still struggling with removing a tire replacing the tube and installing the tire on my BMW G450x. Now I have only done it once, and that was in the comfort of my basement with all my tools. I never got it done. ended up needing to get it on so I used my NoMar machine. I am sure it is just technique improvement, but for right now I would struggle being out in some of the remote areas I ride in, and having to do a tire change with just the two tire irons I have packed in my gear bag. But I am practicing. Now at home on my NoMar machine, No Problem on and off pretty quickly. Not as quick as street tires, but still not bad.

[John Ranalletta]

Both...

 

[Scud]

I am still struggling with removing a tire replacing the tube and installing the tire on my BMW G450x. ...I would struggle being out in some of the remote areas I ride in, and having to do a tire change with just the two tire irons I have packed in my gear bag.

 

Having changed many tubes mid-ride on my Husky, I recommend three tire irons and carrying some baby powder or liquid lube to make it even easier.

 

I have some fantastic titanium levers that have axle-wrenches on the ends opposite the spoons.

 

[randy]

out of curiosity, why do end up changing tires? I have had my bike for about 5 years, never a flat tire. First three years I rarely rode it. last 2 years I ride it on average 3 weekends out of a month. I ride single track, fire roads, and as little as possible paved roads. Never a flat. However everyone tells me to carry a front inner tube and as you noted tire irons with axle wrenches etc built into them.

 

anyway just wondering, is certain types of dual sport riding more susceptible to punctured tubes, and I just do not ride that way?

[Scud]

Well... we're straying a bit from the topic of Tire-Changer for street bikes, but happy to answer anyway. Here are some factors.

 

Stuff that could happen anywhere: I've picked up a few screws and nails.

 

Terrain: Some of the more technical areas I ride have rock lips with sharp edges. Some places I ride in the Eastern Sierras (near where my profile pic was taken) include ancient lava flows and piles of obsidian, which means I am literally riding over broken glass.

 

Tire Pressure: Low pressure (say 8 to 12 psi) for good grip comes at a cost of being more susceptible to flats. I run higher pressures when I want to reduce the risk of a flat (such as by the obsidian domes).

 

Riding style: The harder you hit anything, the more likely you are to bend a rim and/or pop a tube.

 

I carry a patch kit and a front tube. You can make a front tube work in the back, but you cannot do the reverse (due to wheel diameter).

[Scud]

the steps 1 - 4 above are very good. and yes forcing the trailing half of the bed down into the rim is very important. I use the NoMar yellow helping hand, and that has really cut the effort in half. Again as he noted it is all technique, once you have it down, it takes 10 minutes to mount a tire.

 

Just thinking more about the 10 minute claim. That's probably right if you are only thinking about the actual mounting process, in fact, that part probably can be done even faster. I was thinking about the whole process though, which takes me about an hour per tire:

 

Remove wheel

Clean wheel everything is that is hard to reach when the wheel's in place

Clean brake calipers and make sure pistons are moving freely

Remove tire

Mount new tire and inflate

Balance wheel/tire

Reinstall

Test ride/inspect

[Antimatter]

out of curiosity, why do end up changing tires? I have had my bike for about 5 years, never a flat tire. First three years I rarely rode it. last 2 years I ride it on average 3 weekends out of a month. I ride single track, fire roads, and as little as possible paved roads. Never a flat. However everyone tells me to carry a front inner tube and as you noted tire irons with axle wrenches etc built into them.

 

anyway just wondering, is certain types of dual sport riding more susceptible to punctured tubes, and I just do not ride that way?

 

Is the question about why change your own tires? Or how often do you change tires in the field? For the former, dealerships locally used to charge $75 per tire to change (1 hour). And you had to buy the tire from them at a considerable markup. That was back in the early days of the internet when there wasn't much market pressure on dealers, and they could charge whatever they wanted. Two tire changes and I had broken even on my HF set-up. And I went through a period of DOT race tires for track days, and I was changing a LOT of tires. $75 each would have run me between $750 - $1,000 per year for dealer costs alone.

 

I don't do much dual sport riding, so I can't speak to the latter, other than to say that I did have a rock puncture a rear tire of mine on the street back in the late '90's, and I didn't have a puncture kit with me. Between the tow, lost time at work, and the cost of having a shop fix the tire for me, I figure the lack of a kit cost me around $200. One set of sticky strings or mushroom plugs would have got me to work, and home that day. So carrying a kit and know how to use it gives you lots more options, and can make you a hero for your friend/riding companion who doesn't have one.

[Scud]

out of curiosity, why do end up changing tires? I have had my bike for about 5 years, never a flat tire. First three years I rarely rode it. last 2 years I ride it on average 3 weekends out of a month. I ride single track, fire roads, and as little as possible paved roads. Never a flat. However everyone tells me to carry a front inner tube and as you noted tire irons with axle wrenches etc built into them.

 

anyway just wondering, is certain types of dual sport riding more susceptible to punctured tubes, and I just do not ride that way?

 

Is the question about why change your own tires? Or how often do you change tires in the field?

 

I think Randy and I just took a little dirt-biker detour on this topic, which was originally about changing tires in the comfort of one's own home - and what tools to buy.