04 R1150RT Battery Replacement Options

[venturer434]

The WestCo AGM 12V/22Ah  battery installed back in Apr 2017 on my 04 R1150RT died today (Oct 2020).  Was always on a battery tender before / after any ride etc.... 

 

Just researching some current replacement options below. 

 

1. Yuasa YT19BL-BS ( 12V / 17.7 Ah) CCA 170
2. Odyssey Pc680  (  12V / 16 Ah) CCA 170
3. WestCo (12V / 20Ah)  CCA  275

 

Any suggestions/ recommendations would be helpful 

[Jim Moore]

The Odyssey has been my go-to battery for these bike for 300,000 miles and 23 years. 

[Oldrider51]

Since your battery is an AGM, I must ask if the Battery Tender you used was made to handle an AGM battery? If not,  you may want to first invest in one that is for AGM batteries such as  CTEK. These batteries can sometimes be brought back using one of these. The battery tender may not have been able to provide a high enough voltage of at least 14.7 so the battery sulfated. The CTEK can provide a desulfation voltage.

[Michaelr11]

2 hours ago, venturer434 said:

Just researching some current replacement options below. 

 

1. Yuasa YT19BL-BS ( 12V / 17.7 Ah) CCA 170
2. Odyssey Pc680  (  12V / 16 Ah) CCA 170
3. WestCo (12V / 20Ah)  CCA  275

 

My suggestion is option #1.  Westco used to relabel Panasonic AGM batteries. They were very reliable and reasonably priced. Quite a few years ago they switched to cheap Chinese made batteries to relabel. Not as good. I have had the Yuasa in my RT for just about three years now. Still working great. I put it on a charger every month or two for an overnight charge. That’s it.

[catskill]

I have a Odyssey PC680 in my Oilhead. It's 10 years old and still going strong. I have owned Yuasa and WestCo batteries. I usually get 4-5 years out of a Yuasa, and 2-3 years out of WestCo.

[szurszewski]

another vote for the odyssey - skip the tender unless you're going to leave the bike sitting for weeks at a time. 

[dirtrider]

15 hours ago, venturer434 said:

The WestCo AGM 12V/22Ah  battery installed back in Apr 2017 on my 04 R1150RT died today (Oct 2020).  Was always on a battery tender before / after any ride etc.... 

 

Just researching some current replacement options below. 

 

1. Yuasa YT19BL-BS ( 12V / 17.7 Ah) CCA 170
2. Odyssey Pc680  (  12V / 16 Ah) CCA 170
3. WestCo (12V / 20Ah)  CCA  275

 

Any suggestions/ recommendations would be helpful 

Morning venturer434

 

More than likely your "3-year battery failure" problem can be tracked back to your 'Battery Tender' as most older Battery Tenders do not properly meet the battery charging/maintaining requirements of most modern AGM battery's.

 

If you have  a fairly new Battery Tender (you probably don't) then it "could" meet the requirements of most AGM battery's but probably not meet the higher voltage/current requirements of the Odyssey PC-680. 

 

Most AGM batteries require a slightly higher (temperature compensated) charging voltage, the PC-680 requires an even higher (temperature compensated) charging voltage of about 14.7v (at mid 70°f battery temps) but the PC-680  ALSO requires a higher charging current during  the absorption stage of the charging/maintaining cycles.     

 

Personally, I like the Odyssey PC-680 battery but that WILL also require a new battery charger/maintainer to keep it topped off unless you ride  often enough to not even need a battery maintainer (with the PC-680, the 1100/1150  rider is usually better off not even using a battery maintainer than using an incorrect one.  (wrong battery maintainer will sulfate a PC-680 in short order).

 

So your battery selection will (should anyhow) include your battery maintainer. If you want to keep your present 'Battery Tender' then you need to FIRST determine what battery types  it can properly maintain without damage. 

 

Or, pick your battery of choice, THEN, also buy a proper charger/maintainer to maintain that battery choice.  

 

So from your list above ____

 

Yuasa YT19BL-BS ( 12V / 17.7 Ah) CCA 170 -- Depending on your current 'Battery Tender' it might work with it & might not (you will need to research this) 

 

Odyssey Pc680  (  12V / 16 Ah) CCA 170 -- Good battery but will probably require a new (somewhat expensive charger maintainer)

 

WestCo (12V / 20Ah)  CCA  275 -- I have seen many problems with the newer Westco AGM batteries so unless the current Westco comes from a different suppler than they have over the last few years then I don't recommended the Westco.   

 

 

[Paul De]

Yes, as pointed out be sure your battery tender is compatible with the AGM type battery.

 

For my oilhead I buy the very inexpensive  AGM UB12220 (Universal Battery Group).  Size wise fits perfectly in the oilhead and is rated with a few more Ah than the OEM flooded LA battery.  For full disclosure, it is not an automotive battery and is typically used in wheelchair and emergency power out lighting applications.  It does have thinner posts than an automotive battery and you will need to ream out the bolt holes to use on your oil head.  At $50 to $55 shipped to your door it is cheap so I replace them at 5 year intervals while they are still going strong.  I have been using them for the last 15 years or so without any issues.  I did try to kill my last one by leaving the ignition on & kill switch off (head light blazing) for more than 6 hours until it was absolutely flat, but I was able to recharge it and it seemed fine, but I replaced it at about 4.5 years just to be sure.  If I rode a GS off road frequently I probably would stay with an battery designed for automotive use, but have been down plenty of washboard dirt roads on my RT and the UB12220 didn't fail from that vibration.

[dave_a]

I was going to ride to Daytona Octoberfest with two buddies from Myrtle area. One of the guys was getting his new HD lowered at the Expo or whatever that chromefest is they hold for V twins.

I charged by battery, finally took a ride and of course the ABS lights were flashing. Rode for a while then turned the bike off at a stop sign to reset the ABS. The bike cranked slowly and wouldn't start. Needed a battery fast, as the boys were going to be here the next day.

Remarkably O'Reilly Auto parts had a $65 MK brand AGM battery in stock for a 1999 BMW. Made in Vietnam with a 90 day warranty. 

2 weeks and its still holding a charge! 

[venturer434]

Thanks to everyone for all the valuable inputs.. I have contacted Battery Tender with some questions specific to AGM compatibility on the type of Battery Tenders I already have .. still awaiting response..

 

Meanwhile I researched more at Yuasa website for R1150RT batteries and came across the following.. 

 

 

I was able to source a Yuasa 51913 Conventional Battery (compatible with current battery tenders)  for the interim/ immediate and everything seems to work fine.. I got the battery acid and did install a battery vent elbow + vent tube and routed it to the vent hoses by the RH riders foot peg area..

 

Noted some important steps :

1. Battery Acid Volume is 33.8 fl oz per yuasa website. The local auto store only sells either 1 quart ( 32 fl oz) or 6 Quarts (32 x 6 fl oz) . I ended up getting Qty 2 of 32 fl oz containers for all practical purposes ( safety and hazard). 
2. The battery took almost 24 hours to reach a full charge state as controlled by the Battery Tender ( Green light Steady - Storage) 
3. Vent Elbow and Vent Tube were by Dorman 924-254 .
4. I was under the impression my battery tie down strap was so old that it had stretched , but it actually made to fit the correct dimensions of traditional BMW Battery which Yuasa 51913 also seems to have.. 

 

 

 

 

 

For the future if I invest on a PC680 which has a lot of good reviews , I also need to ensure the charger is compatible for AGM. 

 

[dirtrider]

2 hours ago, venturer434 said:

Thanks to everyone for all the valuable inputs.. I have contacted Battery Tender with some questions specific to AGM compatibility on the type of Battery Tenders I already have .. still awaiting response..

 

Meanwhile I researched more at Yuasa website for R1150RT batteries and came across the following.. 

 

 

I was able to source a Yuasa 51913 Conventional Battery (compatible with current battery tenders)  for the interim/ immediate and everything seems to work fine.. I got the battery acid and did install a battery vent elbow + vent tube and routed it to the vent hoses by the RH riders foot peg area..

 

Noted some important steps :

1. Battery Acid Volume is 33.8 fl oz per yuasa website. The local auto store only sells either 1 quart ( 32 fl oz) or 6 Quarts (32 x 6 fl oz) . I ended up getting Qty 2 of 32 fl oz containers for all practical purposes ( safety and hazard). 
2. The battery took almost 24 hours to reach a full charge state as controlled by the Battery Tender ( Green light Steady - Storage) 
3. Vent Elbow and Vent Tube were by Dorman 924-254 .
4. I was under the impression my battery tie down strap was so old that it had stretched , but it actually made to fit the correct dimensions of traditional BMW Battery which Yuasa 51913 also seems to have.. 

 

Afternoon  venturer434

 

Nothing wrong with that battery, the BIG downside is you will need to periodically check the water level in those vented wet-cell  lead/acid  batteries & THAT is REAL PAIN on the BMW 1100/1150 boxer bikes once the battery discolors a little. .  

[Lowndes]

Venturer433,

 

I had to go thru the learning curve on AGM batteries several years back (I have 3 1999-2000 era BMW bikes).

 

AGM's (Absortive Glass Matt) are newer, more robust, longer lived batteries for bikes and cars.  They do require a higher charging voltage (14.5-.7 V) than the older lead-acid batteries that these bikes were designed for (13.5V), but otherwise are very good, long lived batteries in these bikes. 

 

I say "designed for": as Dirtrider described above, it's not easy ("REAL PAIN", as in REMOVE THE GAS TANK) to access the battery on most of these bikes, which is necessary for lead-acid batteries, but not for AGM's.  However, the VOLTAGE REGULATOR (built into the Bosch alternator) is set at 13.5V for lead-acid.

 

An AGM in a 13.5V system will only charge to about 80% max.  The ECU (the fuel injection computer) really "likes" a 100% battery.  Also, the AGM itself will last much longer when fully charged.

  

Solution: Change out the VOLTAGE REGULATOR for a 14.5-.7 V unit in the alternator - Call EME https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/  for your bike, mine was $39.  It's not that hard to do.  And, get an AGM rated maintenance (trickle) charger for the garage.

 

Read more about AGM's here: https://www.batteryminders.com/agm-battery-info/

 

 

[dave_a]

This undercharging of batteries is prevalent in the recreational boating industry. Buy 2-6 very expensive deep cycle AGM's house batteries. Then kill them by undercharging with your old school charging system.

6 of these should do the trick: Big AGM

[dirtrider]

13 hours ago, Lowndes said:

Venturer433,

 

I had to go thru the learning curve on AGM batteries several years back (I have 3 1999-2000 era BMW bikes).

 

AGM's (Absortive Glass Matt) are newer, more robust, longer lived batteries for bikes and cars.  They do require a higher charging voltage (14.5-.7 V) than the older lead-acid batteries that these bikes were designed for (13.5V), but otherwise are very good, long lived batteries in these bikes. 

 

I say "designed for": as Dirtrider described above, it's not easy ("REAL PAIN", as in REMOVE THE GAS TANK) to access the battery on most of these bikes, which is necessary for lead-acid batteries, but not for AGM's.  However, the VOLTAGE REGULATOR (built into the Bosch alternator) is set at 13.5V for lead-acid.

 

An AGM in a 13.5V system will only charge to about 80% max.  The ECU (the fuel injection computer) really "likes" a 100% battery.  Also, the AGM itself will last much longer when fully charged.

  

Solution: Change out the VOLTAGE REGULATOR for a 14.5-.7 V unit in the alternator - Call EME https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/  for your bike, mine was $39.  It's not that hard to do.  And, get an AGM rated maintenance (trickle) charger for the garage.

 

Read more about AGM's here: https://www.batteryminders.com/agm-battery-info/

 

 

Morning Lowndes  

 

What you say is pretty true with a cool  battery charging on a battery charger or on a  battery maintainer but  in real life operation not as simple as that.

 

That 14.5-14.7 charging voltage for an AGM  is for a battery in the mid 70° temperature range (basically a parked & cool motorcycle). But on a ridden 1100/1150 motorcycle with the battery mounted above the hot engine & covered by plastic panels it operates at a much higher temperature (probably 120°f or even higher in warm weather). At that battery temperature the AGM battery requires a lower charging voltage to keep it topped off. (need to see the charging voltage vs temperature chart for each specific battery) 

 

While the BMW 1100/1150 alternator is rated at a nominal 14v output, on some I have seen as low as 13.7v charging under light load by the time it gets to the battery. 

 

The BMW 1100/1150 voltage regulator is supposedly temperature compensated but that seems to be  limited on the lower end (how much I don't know) 

 

It is a little on the low side for an AGM but a lot of us old BMW 1100/1150 riders rode those bikes for years with the Odyssey PC-680 without issues  & those PC-680's are near the top of voltage requirement, but as mentioned,  the required charging voltage drops off with a well ridden hot motorcycle. (hot battery)

 

From the Odyssey data manual--  Standard internal combustion engine alternators with an output voltage of 14.2V can also charge these batteries. The inrush current does not need to be limited under constant voltage charge. However, because the typical alternator voltage is only 14.2V instead of 14.7V, the charge times will be longer than those shown in Table 5.

 

Odyssey doesn't mention the battery temperature that the 14.2v is OK at but seeing as battery  temperature  isn't mentioned I would assume that would be at the nominal temp of  around 77°f. 

 

A little higher output regulator is nice but if the motorcycle is ridden long enough to get the battery up to higher temperature  then probably not a necessity.  

 

  

 

  

 

 

[Lowndes]

Thanks, Dirtrider.  That explains it very well and in much more depth than anything I've found anywhere else, especially the temperature aspect.  

[roger 04 rt]

As usual, DR has hit all the nails on the head. Because the output of the alternator is controlled by a temperature compensated voltage regulator, the temperature being measured is inside the alternator.

 

I have no measurement of the alternator’s temperature but being so close to the engine, I’m going to guess that it gets fairly hot—suppressing the alternator’s “cold” 14V output. That is why we often measure a lower voltage at the battery.

[Bumwah]

Like a lot of you I have been down this road. Low charge on my R1150RT, made it very hard to start.

After a discussion with DR and others on our forum, I purchased a battery, and battery charger.

I opted for the Odyssey but more important was the battery charger. CTEK charger made ALL the difference...

I ordered both and the charger showed up first. So I charged the old battery in my RT. After it went through it's 

8 steps of charging, the battery was like new. I've been through a year of riding and trips, and knock on wood, 

it still is great. Put the Odyssey in my '74 R90/6 and it starts and runs effortlessly. Simply, the charger is the difference.

and the Forum is to be thanked AGAIN!